RE: Final Spinner Top Colors!

[SlikStik-Christian]

Here are the spinner top colors that will be available on our website; we have also added Black & Green to the line up.

They will be added to our website shortly.

[Brentley_11]

The green is awsome! Very spiffy.  

[SirPoonga]

No yellow  Hmm, have to think about blue now for a pacman theme.  I was hoping for yellow and making it look like pacman

[Brax]

Is that clear anodized on the end or is it just polished?

If its just polished how long before it oxidizes? Polished Aluminum on my bike will oxidize in a week. Whats the life of polished aluminum in the home? 6 months?

Black dye generally costs more, does your black knob cost more?

[OSCAR]

If its just polished how long before it oxidizes? Polished Aluminum on my bike will oxidize in a week. Whats the life of polished aluminum in the home? 6 months?

This depends entirely on the alloy.  Pure aluminum is fairly reactive to oxygen, however some aluminum alloys have much improved corrosion and oxidation resistance based on the composition of the primary alloying elements (copper, magnesium, silicon, and zinc).  This is where careful selection of the proper alloy is important.  I don't want to put words in his mouth, so I'll let Christian answer that one.

I did my homework beforehand (as I have to believe Christian did as well) and I have unanodized knobs that are at least 9 months old that look exactly the same as they did the day I received them.

[SlikStik-Christian]

Is that clear anodized on the end or is it just polished?

If its just polished how long before it oxidizes? Polished Aluminum on my bike will oxidize in a week. Whats the life of polished aluminum in the home? 6 months?

Black dye generally costs more, does your black knob cost more?

Brax,

  They are polished not clear anodized. We went with the high polished rather then clear anodizing, clear anodizing actually takes away from the shine of a polished knob resulting in a much duller finish.

As for the type of aluminum we use, we opted for 6061 heat treated grade aluminum, it is the most widely used and is fits our needs well. There are many types of aluminum including 2011 which Oscar uses, to be very honest the main difference between 6061 & 2011 is tensile strength. 2011 is used more in the industry of the manufacturing of aircraft pats due to the strength not its corrosion properties.

Anyway, I have had some of our tops for almost 4 months now and they also look the same as the day I received them. Ultimately there are many factors that play a part in oxidizing including moisture, air conditions and the area you live in. I was actually picking up the final tops this morning and was inclined to ask our machinist to show me some pieces he had laying around they had for a long period of time, they actually showed me some of the exact aluminum that is used on our tops that they have had for 2 years that looked brand new.

With that being said, I would say that they would last for a very long period of time.

[OSCAR]

There are many types of aluminum including 2011 which Oscar uses, to be very honest the main difference between 6061 & 2011 is tensile strength. 2011 is used more in the industry of the manufacturing of aircraft pats due to the strength not its corrosion properties.

I no longer use 2011.  I switched to a 6xxx series some time ago.

[SlikStik-Christian]

There are many types of aluminum including 2011 which Oscar uses, to be very honest the main difference between 6061 & 2011 is tensile strength. 2011 is used more in the industry of the manufacturing of aircraft pats due to the strength not its corrosion properties.

I no longer use 2011.  I switched to a 6xxx series some time ago.

Sorry, I thought you used 2011. I guess I should visit your website more often  

[Analog-X]

SlikStik-Christian & Oscar:
 
Just my 2 cents here.  
 
A Piece aluminum sitting in a bin somewhere in a shop, is
not going to be subject to the same elements than as a
spinner control in a arcade cab.
 
You did mention the "factors that play a part in oxidizing including moisture, air conditions and the area you live in"
 
We have to consider the Human Factor, sweaty palms / hands being one of those factors.
 
Human sweat has some salt content, how is that going to effect the spinner?
 
Long story short, the true test will be to have one of your spinners installed in an arcade cabinet and used on a regular basis and see how it weathers over a period of 6-12 months.
 
To just have the spinner or piece of aluminum not oxidize or react on its own is not a true test in my humble opinion.

[Brax]

I'm only familiar with T-6 myself so that's all I can talk about but I can say that untreated it will only last untreated a matter of weeks before it will lose some of it's shine.

That being said, if you know anything about polishing aluminum it can be brought back in a matter of minutes... It's still a bother i'd rather do without though.

As far as it losing it's shine after anodising.... The shine is directly dependant on you shiney it was to start. If you were to give it a higher polish I'm sure you could have it looking the same as it was previously.. To each their own.

I'm honestly not in the market for one so don't change anything from what I say. I'm a loyal customer of Kelsey's..
(or at least will be in the near future! hehe)

[Wade]

Brax, I'm definitely not an expert on this so take it for what it's worth.  I think the type/composition of aluminum has a lot to do with how it looks after being anodized.  I have seen two car parts that were polished to a mirror shine get anodized at the same time.  One part ended up still looking shiny, and the other looked very dull.

Wade

[dag2000]

I received my knobs from SlikStik today! A blue skirted model and a red regular model.  They are beatiful and substantial and I'm dying to use 'em.  Only problem is that while I can remove the knob & shaft assembly from my Tron spinner, I can't figure out how to remove the knob from the shaft.  Anyone with experience?  Any suggestions?

-Dag

[OSCAR]

Only problem is that while I can remove the knob & shaft assembly from my Tron spinner, I can't figure out how to remove the knob from the shaft.  Anyone with experience?  Any suggestions?

-Dag

The knob on the Tron spinner is held on with a spring roll pin, and most likely pretty rusted (I have never seen one that wasn't).

In a post not long ago someone said that they were able to pinch the spring pin together with a pair of needle nose pliers from the underside and work it out that way.  I've never been lucky enough to come across one that came out that easy.  I've had to spray down the pin with some pentrating oil and let it soak for a few minutes, then tap out the pin with a small punch or nail set.

[dag2000]

Thanks!  It's oiling at home as we speak.  I'm surprised that's how it works, but I guess changing knobs wasn't really a regular maintenance issue.

[Chris]

They would want the knobs to be hard to remove, otherwise every yahoo with an eyeglass screwdriver would be able to swipe the knob...

--Chris

[Warborg]

I was just so close to ordering the black skirted knob...  But then I see the $8 shipping charge for a small $18 item...  As nice as it'd look, it's just a matter of priciple, can't do it...  :/

Ah well, my plastic knob works just as well...  

[Chris]

I was just so close to ordering the black skirted knob...  But then I see the $8 shipping charge for a small $18 item...  As nice as it'd look, it's just a matter of priciple, can't do it...  :/

Ah well, my plastic knob works just as well...  

Think of it as free shipping on a small $26 item...

[KevSteele]

Just got the knobs I ordered from SlikStik, the polished aluminum skirted and the anodized black skirted knobs.

First impressions - very nice looking, perfectly machined (my Oscar  engraved aluminum knob has a very slightly off-axis mounting hole, so the knob "wobbled" just a bit).

The anodized black knob is very dark -- almost looks painted. I was expecting more of a "metallic black" look than a jet-black finish. The polished aluminum knob, however, is very shiny (and even more so after a few swipes with some Brasso )

This knob's profile has got to be the perfect shape for Tempest -- I can grip and spin the knob very easily.

One downside -- the knurling on the side of the knob is sharp...almost like a metal file. The pattern may wear down, or I may have to dull it a bit with some sandpaper, as I keep thinking I'm going to grind off my fingertips in the heat of battle  

More pics on my site, if you're curious.

Kevin

[OSCAR]

(my Oscar  engraved aluminum knob has a very slightly off-axis mounting hole, so the knob "wobbled" just a bit).

I find that very interesting.  My knobs are turned on a lathe and I have never seen one yet where the mounting hole has not been dead center.  I'm going to email you more about this one.

[KevSteele]

(my Oscar  engraved aluminum knob has a very slightly off-axis mounting hole, so the knob "wobbled" just a bit).

I find that very interesting.  My knobs are turned on a lathe and I have never seen one yet where the mounting hole has not been dead center.  I'm going to email you more about this one.

I was suprised by it as well, and thought for certain it had to be a bit of metal or something else stuck inside the hole. Nothing that I can see, however, and I've tried cleaning out the hole just to be sure. This particular knob has wobbled on both the model 1 spinner I bought it for and the Tornado spinner where it has been residing recently. It's a minor wobble, but definitely noticeable when the knob is spinning slowly.

[OSCAR]

I was suprised by it as well, and thought for certain it had to be a bit of metal or something else stuck inside the hole. Nothing that I can see, however, and I've tried cleaning out the hole just to be sure. This particular knob has wobbled on both the model 1 spinner I bought it for and the Tornado spinner where it has been residing recently. It's a minor wobble, but definitely noticeable when the knob is spinning slowly.

Regardless, I am going to ask you for an exchange on that one.  It's not that I don't believe you, but if I find that indeed the mounting hole is not centered, I will send it on to the machine shop for an explanation of how that could have happened.  I'm speculating, but I would expect that it is more likely the hole isn't exactly 90deg rather than being off center.  

[KevSteele]

I'm speculating, but I would expect that it is more likely the hole isn't exactly 90deg rather than being off center.  

I think that's it -- most likely the hole isn't perfectly perpendicular to the body of the knob, but it is centered properly. The wobble is a "tilting" effect, not a "side-to-side" motion. Another theory I've had is that the top isn't completely flat, causing the "wobble" illusion I'm seeing.

I'll email you and we can work out the details.

[Warborg]

I was just so close to ordering the black skirted knob...  But then I see the $8 shipping charge for a small $18 item...  As nice as it'd look, it's just a matter of priciple, can't do it...  :/

Ah well, my plastic knob works just as well...  

Think of it as free shipping on a small $26 item...

I just ain't that good at lying to myself...    I just think that kind of shipping on such a small item is excessive, perhaps going for a bit of extra profit, I dunno...  But it's just a matter of principle for me, even though they look very nice I just can't bring myself to hit the order button...