Since I hadn't seen this before, I figured I may as well write up my experiences with Imperial/Betson Trackballs and their compatibility with other products.
I won an eBay auction for $8 ($15 w/ shipping) which got 2 Imperial Trackballs in varied levels of disrepair - one had a cracked case, a bad roller and a crunchy bearing, the other simply had a bad encoder board. Obviously, I could merge good components into one case and have a working trackball and some spares. (1 roller, the idler, 1 encoder board, both encoder wheels, a somewhat used ball and the harness.)
With that auction won, I went ahead and ordered 2 things that I'd heard rumors of compatibility, but no definitive answers. I ordered the Happ boltless mounting plate (
http://www.happcontrols.com/trackballs/55110100.htm) and Oscar's USB Interface w/ Happ harness.
The mounting plate does _not_ work with what I'm guessing is an older style of Imperial TB case - the case is molded with only an Imperial International logo (w/ a billiards ball). The through holes are just too small to fit over the mounting studs. No biggie, that was the broken one anyway. If you're more adventurous than I am, you might be able to drill out those holes to fit as I don't _think_ they're structural. I believe modern Imperial/Betson trackballs are labelled with "Betson Imperial" on the bottom, and the serial number is a lot more professional looking.
(Additionally, and on a side note, I hear from Bob Roberts that the "boltless" mounting plate has issues with stripped threads and snapping and other miscellaneous problems. I guess time will tell.)
The newer TB _does_ seem to have a Golden Tee "lip" that should be fixable with a few washers. The plastic lip off the top of the case is higher than the top of the mounting plate, which is a bit, I dunno, sloppy looking. Not a major problem, though - some washers twixt case and plate should level it up. (I would guess that's the difference between #47-4300-011 and #47-4300-03 on betson's site.)
The Oscar USB Interface w/ Happ TB harness worked as advertised, and I didn't need to swap any pins or change anything. It worked so well that I was able to diagnose why the better of the two Trackballs was failing in one direction - my guess is that the encoder board is fried. I might be able to fix it with my multimeter and an IR detector, but even if I can't, no biggie. But that's a testament to how easy the interface/harness is to use - confirm the power lines, figure out that you have the proper line pairs going to the proper pins on the harness and voila, you're set.
Although I didn't hook it up to the older model, the harness looks the same. It might not be original to the rest of it, though - it certainly has a few indicators that it's not quite original.
So I may have a spare trackball that's fixable. Repair would run from $10.50 for a new encoder and I just live with the roughness to $26 for a new encoder, new chassis, new roller and new bearing. Not a bad return on a $15 investment.
To do: Build a new control panel. *sigh*