time soldiers arcade help

[Pik4chu]

Well the joystick issue is solved now time for question #2.  When I power it on I get a couple of very loud beeps and then nothing, no picture, no sound, nada.  But I can hear the power for the monitor (you know that crackle and high pitched hum?)  Upon cleaning out the inside of the cab in the back and tracing out wires I found a burned area on the outside of the PSU.  I suppose I can check the PSU to see that it is giving out the proper voltage on all the lines but if the monitor is dead I amnot going to bother.  I do have a new PCB in the mail from a craigslist for like $15 bucks so we shall see I guess.  The big question is does the problem sound like it is just a dead game board or should I be concerned about the monitor too?


Well I now have some free time again I figured Id get back on this project.  I have a time soldiers cab (looks to be converted from who knows what) and while it doesnt quite work (more on that later) I want tot ry to fix it, if I cant fix it w/o too much headache I will MAME it.  Now the question here is the plexi on the CPO is badly damaged and in order to clean up the cab a little bit before digging into the nitty gritty of repairing it I want to remove the plexi and clean it up a bit (since if I MAME id have to do it anyways). 

so with that out of the way now onto the question, how the heck do I get the joysticks of the CP?  I was able to get one of them off only because the top was cracked and I found a screw in there and loosened it and the top cap came off the sticlk.  But upon observing the one I removed I can not for the life of me figure out how to take off the 2nd one without breaking the top to unscrew it. 

*edit* typos

After this I need to figure out what all the cut wires off the jamma harness are supposed to go to but for starters I need help with this please

[SirPeale]

Pictures of the top and bottom of your CP please.  There are lots of ways to do the same task, we have no way of knowing what you've got unless we get the visual.

[u_rebelscum]

If the stick are like the SNK ls-30, http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=13028.0
Dang, the images are gone.  Hold on...

[SavannahLion]

Hopefully those were grabbed up in the mirror that was just put up recently?

[u_rebelscum]

I tried looking in the mirror site for them from the outside, but couldn't find 'em.  That's why I asked about them in the mirror thread.  We'll have to wait and see.

[Pik4chu]

here are some pictures
this first one is of the one I was able to get out because the top cap was busted.


here is the back of the CP with the one I am trying to get out


and here is the front of the CP with the same one

[scotthh]

u_rebelscum gave you the right thread. You need to use your imagination since the pictures are gone. Basically you need to take about 3 inches of shirt hanger, bend it in the middle so you get a U-shape. At both ends of the U's bend the hanger up about 1/2". You then slide the prongs of the tool under the joystick as noted in that thread so it pushes the top off and exposes the nut.

Do not try to remove the round part any other way or you'll have two broken handles.

I'll take a picture of both my homemade tool and the "official" one when I get home tonight.

[Pik4chu]

u_rebelscum gave you the right thread. You need to use your imagination since the pictures are gone. Basically you need to take about 3 inches of shirt hanger, bend it in the middle so you get a U-shape. At both ends of the U's bend the hanger up about 1/2". You then slide the prongs of the tool under the joystick as noted in that thread so it pushes the top off and exposes the nut.

Do not try to remove the round part any other way or you'll have two broken handles.

I'll take a picture of both my homemade tool and the "official" one when I get home tonight.

I was looking through that thread and saw that as well, I had seen those two tabs on the one I was able to remove but in an after the fact attempt I tried to get it to come apart to no avail.  I will try on the broken one first to see how much force is required to do this.  I think I have a metal coat hanger around here somewhere if not I could probably jsut use 2 hemostats   Thank you for the help so far I will update with my results in a min.

[Pik4chu]

Well I got it off, what a pain in the rear.  Fought it with coat hangers for 10 minutes and then once it was off the bolt was stuck, as if it was attatched with locktite so that took a few more minutes to get off.  Guess this thread is done and time to start the next one.

updated main thread with new ? thank you all for the help with the joystick

[Chris G]

no, Id rather people give me a hand in my thread

    

 
Chris

[Kaytrim]

After this I need to figure out what all the cut wires off the jamma harness are supposed to go to but for starters I need help with this please

Here is what you need for the rotary switches. rotary interface

TTFN
Kaytrim

[Pik4chu]

lol thanks Crhis G >.>

Here is what you need for the rotary switches. rotary interface

Actually that is not the problem. Maybe it was because of the covnersion but there are about a dozen wires coming off the JAMMA harness that have been cut @full length but they do not have any connections.  The CP wiring is 100% complete, both the buttons and the rotary interfaces.  My manual hasnt arrived for this yet so I cant be certain but maybe they are just not used for this game?  All the cabling looks ok, I checked everything over and traced things out and it looks like everything that should have a connection has one but I still get nothing on powerup, methinks (and hopes) that its just a dead board.  However, I am hoping to get other opinions because I am not too keen on buying a new monitor (especially given how cheap teh cab was)

[CheffoJeffo]

If you crank up the brightness, do you see raster on the monitor ?

How many beeps are you hearing ? do the tones change ?

Cheers.

[scotthh]

Since the pictures are missing from Oscar's original post here's a new picture and a summary of the directions to remove the LS-30 handles.

1. Grab your "official" tool. If you don't have one make yourself a homemade tool out of a wire hanger.
2. Find the "nubs" underneath the yellow joystick handle
3. Slide the ends of your tool into the spaces just inside the nubs.
4. The tool's tines will press the top of the joystick handle up into the air.
5. Grab the exposed part of the handle top with your free hand, remove.
6. Loosen the newly exposed nut. This can be done with the other side of the "official" tool, a ratchet or a pair of needle nose pliers. (There may be years of goo in there seizing the nut. You might want to try WD-40 or another lubricant).
7. The yellow handle should now come off.

Don't try and remove the center part of the handle from the top, you'll only break it.

[SirPeale]

I tried changing the URLs in the old Oscar thread to reflect the mirror, but the files aren't on the mirror.  Sorry.

[Pik4chu]

If you crank up the brightness, do you see raster on the monitor ?

How many beeps are you hearing ? do the tones change ?

Cheers.

it is 4 beeps, the first beep is a bit lower pitched than the rest and the last 3 beeps are high pitched and happen really fast.  As for the brightness I'm pretty sure it is turned all the way up (all the way to the right?) but the notes on the label dont say anything about brightness the only ones that might help are called "monitor" and "focus" the label also seems to denote the monitor type as 69X1008-100, but messing with either of the two nobs I mentioned above does not change anything.

And some bastard sniped me on the replacement sticks 

[MaximRecoil]

And some bastard sniped me on the replacement sticks 

Thank the alchemist at videoconnect.com for that. He single-handedly turned $10 (NOS) joysticks into $80 (NOS) joysticks, and the old beat up LS-30's kicking around, the same ones you used to be able to get already mounted in an Ikari Warriors or whatever CP for like $15 (including the CP), instantly followed suit.

[Pik4chu]

And some bastard sniped me on the replacement sticks 

Thank the alchemist at videoconnect.com for that. He single-handedly turned $10 (NOS) joysticks into $80 (NOS) joysticks, and the old beat up LS-30's kicking around, the same ones you used to be able to get already mounted in an Ikari Warriors or whatever CP for like $15 (including the CP), instantly followed suit.

well the game board got sniped as well, even worse than the sticks. 4 seconds left.. #$^*)#@*@!@#^*&  So I guess now all I care about is if the monitor is toast as well and if so how hard is it to fix.. -_-