Defender Restore to Williams Multigame - Upgraded - JROK's WSF All In One

[RetroACTIVE]

This project has been floating around in my mind for 1.5 years now...

Finally got the defender cabinet... I have all of the guts.

She does'nt look too bad on the surface but there was a considerable amount of mold and water damage along the bottom front... so I decided to rip the "but" out of it and re-fab some new pieces.... The worst piece was the kick panel... it is the only piece of the cabinet made from MDF and it was pretty "puffy"...  Not to mention the thing kind of stunk!

I have to fix some incidental damage before I put Humpty-Dumpty back together again... nothing a little bondo can't handle...  I had no idea how tricky it is pulling these suckers apart!  Williams used these little "staples" on the inside + glue... man what a great way to put these things together!

Anyway... I have all of the guts from it... I fixed the defender board set... it had 2 bad PIA's, bad CMOS, bad audio amp, and a leaky capacitor causing the sound board to make one heck of a growling noise!

Once the body work is done, I have a robotron boardset equiped with Clay's multigame kit waiting for a new home!

 

[TOK]

Great project! I've been kind of looking around for a non-working but complete Defender also.

[Apollo]

nice project good luck. Staples and glue is still one of the the best ways to put a cab together it's just a matter of getting a staple gun and away you go, too easy.

[RetroACTIVE]

nice project good luck. Staples and glue is still one of the the best ways to put a cab together it's just a matter of getting a staple gun and away you go, too easy.

Definitely... getting them apart is a different story alltogether!

Finally got all the body work done today... allmost ready to glue it back together!

Great project! I've been kind of looking around for a non-working but complete Defender also.

I got 3 machines off e-bay... the Defender was non-working... Ms. PacMan worked but needs clean up... that one is next... basically clean it up, re-sell it and get my money back so Defender ends up free! (well free is a relative term in this hobby).


Thx for comments!

[RetroACTIVE]

She's back together again.  I've began coating the inside with BIN... Also polished down the blackness.  I will repaint black areas and I plan on hand touching the artwork where needed ( I have a set of stencils but they are not 100% accurate... ).  When I'm done I will re-coat it with gloss lacquer.

Oh yeah... since I was bondo happy... I decided to start my MsPac restore...

[1cal]

That  is such a cool idea! I'd love to see how it turns out.

What sort of control panel layout and CPO design are you planning on having?

[RetroACTIVE]

That  is such a cool idea! I'd love to see how it turns out.

What sort of control panel layout and CPO design are you planning on having?

something like this:

http://www.localarcade.com/arcade_art/details.php?image_id=231&mode=search
(cut to fit defender of course!)

I plan on keeping the original defender panel too... so the machine can look  and behave like a real defender (on the inside and out).  With Clay's multi-game you can have it start up with a specific game (in this case defender) so you really can't tell that it is actually a multi-game using robotron/joust hardware.

fun stuff!

[RetroACTIVE]

I went to HobbyTown USA today... took a stab at Defender yellow and red.

The yellow is dead nuts on!  The red is a little off but real close...I want to try clear-coat over the finish first to see if that is indeed the case.

They are Polly Scale Model Railroad... BNSF Yellow: F414398,  Peacemaker Red: F414263.

I'll let you know how the red works soon.

These colors really do require the use of an air-brush... and would be considered useful as touch up paint.

[RetroACTIVE]

Ok... red definetly out... after clear-coat yellow still looks great... red looks worse... its too dark.

[SavannahLion]

These colors really do require the use of an air-brush... and would be considered useful as touch up paint.

I can't remember the last time I had Polly S. paints in the house. What's the spray thinner and clear coat you used?

[RetroACTIVE]

I can't remember the last time I had Polly S. paints in the house. What's the spray thinner and clear coat you used?

These are acrylic... I will be using a 15% ish reduction with distilled water... I actually am using American Traditions clear coat lacquer from Home Desparate... it works very well... surprisingly...

My plan is to use simple wood filler to fix chips and scratches in the artwork then use the air brush to fix the finish... after that I will coat the whole thing with the clear lacquer.

[RetroACTIVE]

Ordered new speaker grille material from McMaster-Carr:
9255T251  Steel Perforated Sheet 36" X 40", .0625" Hole Dia, 41% Open Area, 20 GA
http://www.mcmaster.com/nav/enter.asp?partnum=9255T251&pagenum=381

Original grille is plastic and mine was busted... I plan on rebuilding the speaker board totally and fit it with a different speaker because there are no real good  replacement speakers of the same exact dimensions of the original.

I will have to paint the perforated material... I wish I had powder coating capability though.  After I make mine, I may build up a few grilles for folks who want a replacement, we'll see.

[spacies]

I love Defender cabs.

It was a silly idea of Williams to make the kickplate out of MDF 'cos it swells when wet and loads of Defenders have water damage.

You are doing a fantastic job here mate.
Keep it up 'cos you are inspiring me to build one!

 

[RetroACTIVE]

I love Defender cabs.

It was a silly idea of Williams to make the kickplate out of MDF 'cos it swells when wet and loads of Defenders have water damage.

You are doing a fantastic job here mate.
Keep it up 'cos you are inspiring me to build one!

 

Thanks... I will be posting exact measurements for each panel, the one thing that is missing in all the plans I've found here and there.  I'm no autocad guru so they will be just plain old sketches... but I promise... they will be accurate for those who want to build an exact replica.  My original intent was to do a scratch build... but since I could not find the data... I chose the restore route...

I'm glad I did..

[spacies]

Oh really,

That would be awesome!

There are plans floating around but not sure how good they are.

I just ordered a Multi Williams PCB from the Arcadeshop so that will go inside along with a full compliment of new gear as well.

I am not sure how good your paint codes will be to me so I will be guessing.

I will use stencils for the art and a full clear coat as well.

Look forward to more updates.



 

[RetroACTIVE]

Speaker grille (perforated metal) arrived today!  The stuff looks great! I'll put some pics up later...

Here it is (top stuff is new bottom is old):

[spacies]

Cool,

Great to see you are keeping things original.

I am interested to see how that mounts too.

[TOK]

Looking forward to the full set of measurements! This will be great, thanks. 

[RetroACTIVE]

I'll post bits of measurements at a time... eventually I will put it all into a document...

Here is the speaker panel... its made from MDF... material is irrelevant, its wrapped with mesh and anchored with aluminum L brackets. you could use either 3/4", 18mm ply or 3/4 MDF

[theCoder]

Nice job on the grill work.  How did you form the metal at the corner?

[RetroACTIVE]

Nice job on the grill work.  How did you form the metal at the corner?

Kind of misleading... thats a picture of the original "bad" panel... I don't plan on making the corners the same... its not neccessary to accomplish the same finished effect.

[RetroACTIVE]

Here is a drawing of the rear base panel... I know this seems rediculous.. but it keeps me motivated to do it... If I try to do the whole thing at once... it won't get done..

[RetroACTIVE]

I will be doing the floor, front kick, coin box and coin door entry panels next... Please feel free to comment... Like I said I'm not a mechanical engineer... so I really don't know the "right" methods... besides... I'm using power point!  Either way... I want them correct and useable...

[spacies]

Great job with the measurements.

Keep 'em coming!

[RetroACTIVE]

Here is one more... Coin Box and Power Switch Access Panel....

...when it is all done I will double check all measurements... there may be some inaccuracies at the moment... since the pieces are old... and a bit fractured from being removed... as I get more and more data... the "true" numbers will begin to emerge...

[clanggedin]

This thread is starting to make me feel guilty that I gave the empty Defender cab I was going to restore to my brother. He's converting it into a Donkey Konga Cab.


Goo luck with this project. Can't wait to see it finished.

[RetroACTIVE]

This thread is starting to make me feel guilty that I gave the empty Defender cab I was going to restore to my brother. He's converting it into a Donkey Konga Cab.


Goo luck with this project. Can't wait to see it finished.

Yup... its a fun one...I can't wait either... the thing thats slowing me down now is my decision to heavily document the cabinet dimensions... So I'm not putting the pieces back together until I get all the data recorded.

I just got finished with the coin door panel, front kick panel as well as all the external numbers and miters... I'm putting them into .ppt now... hopefully have more posted this evening.   I'm a bit of a Defender fanatic so I really wanted to create a set of blue-prints to be able to fab one later if need be.

[RetroACTIVE]

Here are two more... cabinet floor and kick panel

[RetroACTIVE]

Here is the coin door panel

[RetroACTIVE]

Here is the sidewall(s)...

I've yet to test it... I will be drawing it on paper 1:1 scale and comparing it with the actual cabinet to make sure everything is copacetic.  Pretty sure its ok though... the edges are not perfect on the cabinet so that could cause some innacuracies... probably nothing worse than 1/16" though.

[spacies]

Well done!

So whats left?

Just the Control Panel, monitor cutout?

It is about time someone has done this to a Defender Cabinet.

Congrats to you!!!

[RetroACTIVE]

Monitor shelf... Control Panel, Control Panel Ledger... and panel grooves on the inside wall.

I have it all done w/pencil + paper... its just a matter of keying it in.

I had quite a few errors initially but I believe its all good now. BTW: I've updated side wall dwg... it had 1 angle improperly referenced.

[RetroACTIVE]

Another two... the control panel / bezel shelf is a wierd one... the Defender cabinet has a special plastic piece that fits over the bezel then comes up the front and sits on top of the control panel... kind of combination bezel/control panel trim piece... If you were building one from scratch... you may wish to consider an alternate since the piece is unique to Defender..

oops... updated monitor shelf drawing... the length was like 15 inches too short.. 

[RetroACTIVE]

This one has been done a million times... but just the same...

[WunderCade]

This one has been done a million times... but just the same...

How's this one going Retro?

[rockin_rick]

WOW - I just found this.  Thanks a lot for taking the time to document this.  It's obvious that you want to provide accurate plans for this.  If I may make a request, when time permits, could you post measurements for the side panel where you reference one point and the angles (corners) are measured like coordinates on an x-y axis, rather than transversing the perimeter?  I think that with all the angles, there is a lot of potential for errors to build up and to get quite off the intended path.

I'm thinking that it could be like the measurements for the CP.  Reference the back bottom corner, and call that 0,0.  Then measure the horz distance and vertical distance to each of the 'corners' (inside and outside angles) of the side.  Sort of like if there was a grid over the side panel.  Assuming that the back is 90�° to the bottom and the front "kick panel" is also 90° to the bottom - then the 'corner' that is the first bend away from the back angled up towards the marquee would be coordinate (0,57 1/2)  The corner where the bottom turns to go up the kick panel would be (26 1/4,0).  The corner where the kick panel angles out to the coin door panel would be (26 1/4,21 1/8).


Then one could measure out where all the corners are, and then just connect the dots.

If you do not have time to do this, I understand.  You have already done a lot regarding this.  I certainly appreciate it, and I'm sure many others do to.

And I am also very interested in any updates you have with this project (non-documentation wise).

Thanks,
Rick

[RetroACTIVE]

This one has been done a million times... but just the same...

How's this one going Retro?

WunderCade,

Things have kind of slowed for me... summer time is really tied up with family vacations and such... Here is what I've done...

- Rebuilt the coin door
- Williams Multigame artwork done
- Monitor rebuilt
- Defender joystick rebuilt
- Both Defender and multigame panels cut
- Purchased new Defender control panel overlay and monitor bezel (Arcadeshop)
- I've also gathered up all of the materials needed for wiring and such...

All I have left is to finish the outside.  Then I can put it together and start using it.

Sorry for the lack of updates... should have known better than to start a project in the spring!  Things will pick up very soon!

WOW - I just found this.  Thanks a lot for taking the time to document this.  It's obvious that you want to provide accurate plans for this.  If I may make a request, when time permits, could you post measurements for the side panel where you reference one point and the angles (corners) are measured like coordinates on an x-y axis, rather than transversing the perimeter?  I think that with all the angles, there is a lot of potential for errors to build up and to get quite off the intended path.

I'm thinking that it could be like the measurements for the CP.  Reference the back bottom corner, and call that 0,0.  Then measure the horz distance and vertical distance to each of the 'corners' (inside and outside angles) of the side.  Sort of like if there was a grid over the side panel.  Assuming that the back is 90�° to the bottom and the front "kick panel" is also 90° to the bottom - then the 'corner' that is the first bend away from the back angled up towards the marquee would be coordinate (0,57 1/2)  The corner where the bottom turns to go up the kick panel would be (26 1/4,0).  The corner where the kick panel angles out to the coin door panel would be (26 1/4,21 1/8).


Then one could measure out where all the corners are, and then just connect the dots.

If you do not have time to do this, I understand.  You have already done a lot regarding this.  I certainly appreciate it, and I'm sure many others do to.

And I am also very interested in any updates you have with this project (non-documentation wise).

Thanks,
Rick

Hey Rick,

Yeah... I agree with you... I will do the ref diagram for you and others... It won't be too too hard... before I populate the cabinet... I will lay it on its side trace it out to get the coordinates...

[spacies]

Hey RetroActive.

Your plans were most helpful.

Look:







I still look forward to your end build up mate.

Keep at it!

[rockin_rick]

Hey Rick,

Yeah... I agree with you... I will do the ref diagram for you and others... It won't be too too hard... before I populate the cabinet... I will lay it on its side trace it out to get the coordinates...

Thank you!

Re-reading my post, I think that I should clarify (although I believe that you understand what I meant).  My referring to coordinates is not exact method I think is best, but I used that terminology to help make my point.  The easiest and best way probably is like my (super crappy photoshop) pic...  Should be pretty easy, no need to trace (unless you want a tracing).  You could just put a tape measure to it and measure to the corners.  But you may require a straight edge to "extend" the back panel and accurately measure 'A', 'B', and 'I' (if 'I' is different than 'B' - AKA if it's not parallel to the back panel).  'E' and 'F', too...  Also, is the coin door panel parallel to the back panel?  (so that 'J' is the same from the top to the bottom of the coin door panel?)

Thanks again,
Rick

[RetroACTIVE]

Hey RetroActive.

Your plans were most helpful.

I still look forward to your end build up mate.

Keep at it!

Spacies,

Awesome! That Looks spot on!  Glad to see they worked out! Looks like your done!

Hey Rick,

Yeah... I agree with you... I will do the ref diagram for you and others... It won't be too too hard... before I populate the cabinet... I will lay it on its side trace it out to get the coordinates...

Thank you!

Re-reading my post, I think that I should clarify (although I believe that you understand what I meant).  My referring to coordinates is not exact method I think is best, but I used that terminology to help make my point.  The easiest and best way probably is like my (super crappy photoshop) pic...  Should be pretty easy, no need to trace (unless you want a tracing).  You could just put a tape measure to it and measure to the corners.  But you may require a straight edge to "extend" the back panel and accurately measure 'A', 'B', and 'I' (if 'I' is different than 'B' - AKA if it's not parallel to the back panel).  'E' and 'F', too...  Also, is the coin door panel parallel to the back panel?  (so that 'J' is the same from the top to the bottom of the coin door panel?)

Thanks again,
Rick

No prob Rick... I get what your saying... the reason I wanted to do a tracing is to normalize all of the cuts and validate the angles... you see the inside corners are not perfect... they are cut with a cutting bit... therefore there rounded and have irregularities.  The outside edges are also not perfect, kinda rounded too.  Its difficult to pick the point in the air, if you will.  If I trace it I can be sure all my points are accurate, cause I can eliminate the round offs.

Either way... it will be accurate... I promise.

Thanks again

[rockin_rick]

You rock!

So all of the angles are not sharp, but rather radiused?  I see what you mean about getting the point out of the air.  So you want to trace, then extend the 'lines' to intersect, then measure to the intersections... that's cool.  Could you also measure (or guestimate) the radius of them?

Thank you, thank you.
Rick

BTW - no need to rush for me, I'm not in need of this info anytime soon...

[RetroACTIVE]

You rock!

So all of the angles are not sharp, but rather radiused?  I see what you mean about getting the point out of the air.  So you want to trace, then extend the 'lines' to intersect, then measure to the intersections... that's cool.  Could you also measure (or guestimate) the radius of them?

Thank you, thank you.
Rick

BTW - no need to rush for me, I'm not in need of this info anytime soon...

Correct... most angles are not sharp... a few are.  The radius of all "non-sharp" angles appear to be 3/8"...  from what I can tell they must have used a 3/8 cutting bit for the outside perimeter and for the groves for which the panels 5/16" rabbet edges fit into.

Well.. I'm starting to pick up steam on this so I want to be done with it... so now is a good time.

[RetroACTIVE]

Here are a couple of pics... the Defender CP is done... the WMG panel is still work in progress...

[RetroACTIVE]

Fixed the old pos light...

[RetroACTIVE]

new panel and grille before painting

[RetroACTIVE]

here is the finished panel and grille...

[RetroACTIVE]

now she is all ready for a new finish.. I've fixed years of dents and scratches... now comes the tedious part...

[RetroACTIVE]

oh... yeah I finished the WMG control panel... with the exception of the t-molding slot..

[TOK]

Still watching this fantastic build. Even used leaf switch sticks and buttons.
Great machine! 

[RetroACTIVE]

Decided to retro-fit the Defender mounting plate with the Robotron sound board and the JAMMA finger board... (Yes this is going to be a JAMMA cab).  I just cut a small aluminum panel and used the studs that were there for the old sound board and volume pot... then I drilled new holes for the sound board and JAMMA finger board on the new panel... this way... I didn't alter the original mounting plate in any way.

[telengard]

Here are a couple of pics... the Defender CP is done... the WMG panel is still work in progress...

Good idea having separate panels.  The reverse button looks to be more far away in the multi-game one.  My first defender panel had the button over and it drove me nuts.

Awesome, awesome project.  Someday..... I ...... will........build and WMG.

~telengard

[RetroACTIVE]

Here are a couple of pics... the Defender CP is done... the WMG panel is still work in progress...

Good idea having separate panels.  The reverse button looks to be more far away in the multi-game one.  My first defender panel had the button over and it drove me nuts.

Awesome, awesome project.  Someday..... I ...... will........build and WMG.

~telengard

Yup the button is a bit far away... I should have moved it to the left about 1/2 inch... If I ever get the time or more $ I may considered re-doing it.... But I also figure... thats what the real Defender panel is for right?... so I'm ok with it for now.

Thanks for comments!

[rockin_rick]

I was thinking about this some and have a couple questions, if I may...  (Colors referring to my attached pic and the questions numbered for your ease of replying)

1) What is the distance from the monitor artwork bezel block to the edge of the cabinet (RED)?  Is the block parallel to the edge of the cabinet?

2) What is the distance from the monitor shroud bezel block to the edge of the cabinet (GREEN)?  Is this also parallel?

3) Is the monitor shelf angle 90° to the artwork bezel block (BLUE) (and/or to the monitor shroud bezel block)?

4) What's up with the YELLOW block?  Does the speaker panel butt up against it?  Does the artwork bezel go all the way up to it (and rest on it)?  Is it in the same plane as the monitor artwork bezel block?

Thanks again,
Rick

[RetroACTIVE]

I was thinking about this some and have a couple questions, if I may...  (Colors referring to my attached pic and the questions numbered for your ease of replying)

1) What is the distance from the monitor artwork bezel block to the edge of the cabinet (RED)?  Is the block parallel to the edge of the cabinet?

2) What is the distance from the monitor shroud bezel block to the edge of the cabinet (GREEN)?  Is this also parallel?

3) Is the monitor shelf angle 90° to the artwork bezel block (BLUE) (and/or to the monitor shroud bezel block)?

4) What's up with the YELLOW block?  Does the speaker panel butt up against it?  Does the artwork bezel go all the way up to it (and rest on it)?  Is it in the same plane as the monitor artwork bezel block?

Thanks again,
Rick

1. see diagram
2. see diagram
3. see diagram
4. "yellow" is blocking used to mount the light fixture... non essential if building your own.  Speaker panel uses aluminum L brackets and do not rely on the light fixture blocking for support... (see previous posts for speaker panel pics)

I'll do more inner details as time permits...

Hope this helps...

[rockin_rick]

Thanks again!
Rick

[RetroACTIVE]

They say "devil is in the details"... no kidding... I'm hating this right about now.  The adhesive is good for 14 days... I hope I make it!

[spacies]

Oh mate.

Looks like a long and winding road.

Here is how I did mine:

Spray cabinet black then apply the Red stencil.




Sprayed the red on.



Stencil removed.



Yellow stencil.



Yellow sprayed on.



No bleed between colours. The orange peel you see dissappeared once I added 5 coats of clear and the buffed it.



End result.



All the paint is Automotive Lacquer. Super easy to use and fast drying.
This is by far the best way to do it.
I will be selling my stencils once I have made a couple of small changes to them.

[RetroACTIVE]

Oh mate.

Looks like a long and winding road.

Where did you get your stencils? Are they home-made?  I had some and sold them cause I thought it would be too much work... oops 

[prOk]

Just FYI, I've carried Defender stencils amongst others for quite a while now

/brian

http://www.oleszakcreative.com
http://www.rgvac.com

[RetroACTIVE]

Just FYI, I've carried Defender stencils amongst others for quite a while now

/brian

http://www.oleszakcreative.com
http://www.rgvac.com

I've been e-mailing you about your stencils (I'm the dummy that thought your stencils were "decals"  .... I'm definitely going to pick up a set...

[prOk]

OH.. hehe..  hard to match up interweb nicks with emails etc

[RetroACTIVE]

OH.. hehe..  hard to match up interweb nicks with emails etc

I just bought a set through your on line store... if I screwed up the option... (which I think I did)... I want the earlier version where the spaceman back to the rear on left side and back to the coin door on the right.... 

[RetroACTIVE]

OK... I'm going to re-stencil... stripping the cab down to bare wood.... now I know the pic looks like the artwork is in really good shape... its not...trust me there are a bunch of fractures where the plywood has cracked and there are tons and tons of gouges ...  so please don't hate me and don't let the pic fool you...

[csa3d]

Have fun with that.  I've got mine stripped down to bare wood, and have been repairing every minor imperfection for way too long.  My OCD kicked in, and i've almost gotta keep telling myself to keep pushing forth.  Do what you gotta do, but I guess my advice to you is know when to say when.

-csa

[spacies]

Go for it man.

After you have primed it, use a torch and shine it along the side. That will help you find even more imperfections     

[RetroACTIVE]

Have fun with that.  I've got mine stripped down to bare wood, and have been repairing every minor imperfection for way too long.  My OCD kicked in, and i've almost gotta keep telling myself to keep pushing forth.  Do what you gotta do, but I guess my advice to you is know when to say when.

-csa

I hear ya man!  I've got a Ms. Pac I'm about to hit next...    Yeah... trying to weave this stuff in and out of everyday life is a real !@#$#@.  I'm using leave time to get this done... and I should be painting my house!  Starting to feel a wee bit irresponsible...

[RetroACTIVE]

Go for it man.

After you have primed it, use a torch and shine it along the side. That will help you find even more imperfections     

Yah!  27+ years... I'll talke what I can... I've filled the grain on the first stripped side and thats it!  A few coats of shelac primer and end it!  Tomorrow I should have the whole thing sanded and maybe primed 1 coat...

I'm glad I had a change of plan to go down this route...

[RetroACTIVE]

All stripped ready to prime...

[RetroACTIVE]

After sanding it all down... and 4+ coats of BIN ... I've finally got my first coat of black on!  I'm very pleased with the results...

[RetroACTIVE]

First pic shows how much light was reflected off the black!... once I shut off the flash.... well... you get the idea!

[RetroACTIVE]

hello there

[prOk]

Now that you've put what? 8 coats of paint on there (primer + black) you'll need to allow at least 2/3 days for this paint to cure hard so it doesn't peel!!  Just letting you know that!

[spacies]

LOL. Are you trying to build a Defender Piano?

[RetroACTIVE]

Now that you've put what? 8 coats of paint on there (primer + black) you'll need to allow at least 2/3 days for this paint to cure hard so it doesn't peel!!  Just letting you know that!

It's taken me 3+ days to get this far... I've waited 24+ hours between each of 3 coats of wickedly thinned paint (sanded w/400 grit in between)... I'm not planning on doing anything for about a 2 week peroid anyway...  I've got a ton of other stuff to keep me busy

Its actually quite tough... surprisingly

[RetroACTIVE]

LOL. Are you trying to build a Defender Piano?

Its a Williams baby grand alright!  It really is quite funny how shiny this thing became.... I surprised myself...

[RetroACTIVE]

Here is the results of tracing the cabinet and recording all of the linear measurements.  Sorry I separated the vertical and horizontal measurements into two different drawings... it was just too busy all in one...

[Joec03]

Retroactive where'd you get the grated metal for the speaker board?

Joe

[RetroACTIVE]

Retroactive where'd you get the grated metal for the speaker board?

Joe

McMaster Carr (I have it listed on the first page of posts)
http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=65938.msg668746#msg668746

It comes bare... and needs to be painted or powder coated.

[Joec03]

woah pretty pricey stuff.  Seems like you should have some of it left over.  Would you be willing to sell me some for a joust?

[RetroACTIVE]

FINALLY... its been a while but I've been doing a little bit each night... stencilling took a long time... each color was 24+ hours between coats....

Here are some new pics...

[RetroACTIVE]

red done...

[RetroACTIVE]

I have to say these stencils are freakin' unbelievable... I thought they would be a problem when I began to peel them off... but (even though they hold on tight) they come off clean... just be sure to wait till the paint is a wee bit tacky...

[RetroACTIVE]

Here is a close-up of prOk's stencil... I could not be happier with the results... totally worth it!

Also decided to paint the inside with a light brown semi-gloss latex paint undercoated with BIN primer.  Now the whole thing is totally clean, sealed and ready to be populated!

[spacies]

WICKED!

Well done 

Stencils rock huh!?

[rockin_rick]

Looks awesome, I'm jealous!

What kind of paint did you use for the black and colors?  How did you apply it (spray can, roller, HPLV)?

... I thought they would be a problem when I began to peel them off... but (even though they hold on tight) they come off clean... just be sure to wait till the paint is a wee bit tacky...

How long is a wee bit tacky?  Do they need to be removed before the color is fully dry?  IOW - is tacky the preferred time to remove them?

Thanks,
Rick

[RetroACTIVE]

Looks awesome, I'm jealous!

What kind of paint did you use for the black and colors?  How did you apply it (spray can, roller, HPLV)?

... I thought they would be a problem when I began to peel them off... but (even though they hold on tight) they come off clean... just be sure to wait till the paint is a wee bit tacky...

How long is a wee bit tacky?  Do they need to be removed before the color is fully dry?  IOW - is tacky the preferred time to remove them?

Thanks,
Rick

I used rustoleum gloss black...  comes in 1 qt cans... applied with a foam roller.... thinned with acetone at about 2/3 acetone/paint mixture... should be very thin... but not so thin it runs down the cab before it dries... I did a total of 6 coats!  its really quite remarkable how tough and brilliant it becomes.

The red and yellow are Krylon spray (can)...

As far as when to peel off the stencil... I followed the instructions provided with them... a "bit tacky" was that if I touched the paint with my finger... it would actually stick to my finger... but not "wet".  I also painted the stencils with the cab laying down but peeled off the stencil with it standing up, for better leverage.

I was going to clear-coat the whole thing... but it looks to damn good and I'm afraid to screw it up.

[TOK]

Is it possible to make a game look TOO nice?

Nah! Damn, thats sweet. 

[theCoder]

I was going to clear-coat the whole thing... but it looks to damn good and I'm afraid to screw it up.

It does look nice, but a clear coat will smooth the layers and keep the them from peeling.  Just a suggestion.

Great progress.

[RetroACTIVE]

I was going to clear-coat the whole thing... but it looks to damn good and I'm afraid to screw it up.

It does look nice, but a clear coat will smooth the layers and keep the them from peeling.  Just a suggestion.

Great progress.

Thanks I do agree... but the only thing I have available is spray can type... if I had a good sprayer and the right stuff... I may have the guts to do it.

[RetroACTIVE]

Starting to put the big pieces in place....

[RetroACTIVE]

I rebuilt the monitor... it had very little burn (and its Defender burn so no biggie!)... re-capped, new flyback and HOT..

Works like a champ!

[RetroACTIVE]

Here are some nice pics...

Still have to do the coin door... thats gonna make it really sparkle... also got some of the wiring done but have a lot yet to do... (before the fun begins)

[spacies]

KILLER!

[rockin_rick]

Looks awesome, me jealous.

Rick

[Neilyboy]

very nice job man. im jealous as well. I would love to have that cab!! Lucky!!
nice work

Neil

[CathalDublin]

Looks fecking Brillant
Ordering the stencils for the front of mine, gonna leave the sides till another stage

[RetroACTIVE]

Built the PSU board today... nothing remarkable here... just your basic fused filter/switcher/iso-former setup.  I've got two mate-n-lock for monitor and marquee lamp connections.

[RetroACTIVE]

I've redone the PSU to make it compatible with original Defender wiring harness... I put it on the same size board as the original and re-strapped the ground braid nearly identical to the original...

[RetroACTIVE]

More pics of jamma wiring and new coin door harness, compatible with Defender coin door.

[RetroACTIVE]

Coin door converted to 12V DC and now lit with leds..

[RetroACTIVE]

Here is another coin door view... and marquee lit!

Next step is to connect the williams hardware to the JAMMA finger board.

Oh... I cleaned and put the black plasic mesh back in behind the vent holes

[RetroACTIVE]

All finished... sorry my final shots aren't too good... I just don't have the patience some of you do with cameras and setting up the perfect shot...

[RetroACTIVE]

a couple more..

Thanks for lookin' and all the feedback.

[RetroACTIVE]

Here is where it has found its final home... Ms. Pac is next... going to the left...

[bfauska]

 

Very nicely done restorfication.  The cab looks like new (probably better.)  Do you not use the coin slots or is there just no bucket in place for the photos?  It seems like it could be bad if a coin landed just right on some parts of the electronics inside, even if YOU don't use coins you can never tell what some kid will do.

[RetroACTIVE]

Very nicely done restorfication.  The cab looks like new (probably better.)  Do you not use the coin slots or is there just no bucket in place for the photos?  It seems like it could be bad if a coin landed just right on some parts of the electronics inside, even if YOU don't use coins you can never tell what some kid will do.

You got it...I do use the coin slots and removed the bucket for the pic... I also have a new piece of fishpaper that goes in place across the shelf (as per original).. .

[prOk]

what the heck is fishpaper?

[RetroACTIVE]

what the heck is fishpaper?

Its a fibroid paper type substance (almost like a really really dense thin cardboard, thickness of about matchbook paper) used in electrical applications for insulation.  Its sometimes used to shroud fuse holders and places on/around arcade power supplies to shield AC voltages.... For Defender Williams used a piece across the shelf to stop quarters from falling over into the base of the cabinet.

[The Chugnut]

Outstanding! 

[spacies]

Well done mate.

This the best Defender Restoration on the net!

You should be proud 

[RetroACTIVE]

Outstanding! 

Thank you!

Well done mate.

This the best Defender Restoration on the net!

You should be proud 

Wow! Your work is pretty darn high-end... your complement is much appreciated.

[Flake]

This one has been done a million times... but just the same...

How's this one going Retro?

WunderCade,

Things have kind of slowed for me... summer time is really tied up with family vacations and such... Here is what I've done...

- Rebuilt the coin door
- Williams Multigame artwork done
- Monitor rebuilt
- Defender joystick rebuilt
- Both Defender and multigame panels cut
- Purchased new Defender control panel overlay and monitor bezel (Arcadeshop)
- I've also gathered up all of the materials needed for wiring and such...

All I have left is to finish the outside.  Then I can put it together and start using it.

Sorry for the lack of updates... should have known better than to start a project in the spring!  Things will pick up very soon!

WOW - I just found this.  Thanks a lot for taking the time to document this.  It's obvious that you want to provide accurate plans for this.  If I may make a request, when time permits, could you post measurements for the side panel where you reference one point and the angles (corners) are measured like coordinates on an x-y axis, rather than transversing the perimeter?  I think that with all the angles, there is a lot of potential for errors to build up and to get quite off the intended path.

I'm thinking that it could be like the measurements for the CP.  Reference the back bottom corner, and call that 0,0.  Then measure the horz distance and vertical distance to each of the 'corners' (inside and outside angles) of the side.  Sort of like if there was a grid over the side panel.  Assuming that the back is 90�° to the bottom and the front "kick panel" is also 90° to the bottom - then the 'corner' that is the first bend away from the back angled up towards the marquee would be coordinate (0,57 1/2)  The corner where the bottom turns to go up the kick panel would be (26 1/4,0).  The corner where the kick panel angles out to the coin door panel would be (26 1/4,21 1/8).


Then one could measure out where all the corners are, and then just connect the dots.

If you do not have time to do this, I understand.  You have already done a lot regarding this.  I certainly appreciate it, and I'm sure many others do to.

And I am also very interested in any updates you have with this project (non-documentation wise).

Thanks,
Rick

Hey Rick,

Yeah... I agree with you... I will do the ref diagram for you and others... It won't be too too hard... before I populate the cabinet... I will lay it on its side trace it out to get the coordinates...

What joysticks did you use for the multi-williams control panel?  I'm curious as to how you incorporated a 49-way joystick into the control panel for Sinstar?  Also, what type of joystick is the left one on the multi-williams CP?  How does it affect Defender game play?

Thanks

[RetroACTIVE]

What joysticks did you use for the multi-williams control panel?  I'm curious as to how you incorporated a 49-way joystick into the control panel for Sinstar?  Also, what type of joystick is the left one on the multi-williams CP?  How does it affect Defender game play?

Thanks

This machine uses Clay Cowgill's Williams Multigame kit which does not support Sinistar... so 49 way is not needed.  Clay's kit only has Defender, Stargate, Joust, Robotron, Bubbles and Splat so you are able to use 8 way sticks to satisfy them all.  I used Wico leafs for the panel to meet the Robotron requirement.  It actually works pretty well for Defender in Stargate... since the stick has some give from left to right helps reach the reverse button... (since its a little far from the stick!).

 

[Level42]

 

[Flake]

What joysticks did you use for the multi-williams control panel?  I'm curious as to how you incorporated a 49-way joystick into the control panel for Sinstar?  Also, what type of joystick is the left one on the multi-williams CP?  How does it affect Defender game play?

Thanks

This machine uses Clay Cowgill's Williams Multigame kit which does not support Sinistar... so 49 way is not needed.  Clay's kit only has Defender, Stargate, Joust, Robotron, Bubbles and Splat so you are able to use 8 way sticks to satisfy them all.  I used Wico leafs for the panel to meet the Robotron requirement.  It actually works pretty well for Defender in Stargate... since the stick has some give from left to right helps reach the reverse button... (since its a little far from the stick!).

 

I see, well would you happen to know what the control panel / joystick setup is for the Multi-Williams PCB that includes Sinistar?   I think Arcadeshop has a programmable multi-williams pcb for horizontal monitors and one of the games is Sinistar.  So how do they incorporate a 49-way into the CP design for that pcb?

I have a Defender cabinet I would like to restore and was thinking of going the Multi-williams route on the pcb and cp but have been unable to find information on the joystick setup.

Thanks

[RetroACTIVE]

I see, well would you happen to know what the control panel / joystick setup is for the Multi-Williams PCB that includes Sinistar?   I think Arcadeshop has a programmable multi-williams pcb for horizontal monitors and one of the games is Sinistar.  So how do they incorporate a 49-way into the CP design for that pcb?

I have a Defender cabinet I would like to restore and was thinking of going the Multi-williams route on the pcb and cp but have been unable to find information on the joystick setup.

Thanks

They don't... the Sinistar that was implemented in the arcadeshop board and other multi's does not use a 49 way... its been "translated" to use an 8 way... I'm afraid if you want a true Sinistar feel... you will probably need to go with the original... or perhaps .... MAME with an analog stick (U360 w/custom mapping) may be your second best bet.

[Flake]

I see, well would you happen to know what the control panel / joystick setup is for the Multi-Williams PCB that includes Sinistar?   I think Arcadeshop has a programmable multi-williams pcb for horizontal monitors and one of the games is Sinistar.  So how do they incorporate a 49-way into the CP design for that pcb?

I have a Defender cabinet I would like to restore and was thinking of going the Multi-williams route on the pcb and cp but have been unable to find information on the joystick setup.

Thanks

They don't... the Sinistar that was implemented in the arcadeshop board and other multi's does not use a 49 way... its been "translated" to use an 8 way... I'm afraid if you want a true Sinistar feel... you will probably need to go with the original... or perhaps .... MAME with an analog stick (U360 w/custom mapping) may be your second best bet.

Thanks Retro thats what I needed to know.  Appreciate it.

[RetroACTIVE]

This machine recently received jrok's Williams All In One board.  I've removed the Robotron/Joust board set and Clay's Williams Multigame kit.  I'm putting all the original Defender pcbs back in and lastly redesigning the CPO to make it more aligned with the motif of the original Defender CPO. 

[GaryMcT]

Great job on the restore!!!!!!!  And thanks for all of the careful measuring.

Why paint instead of laminate?  I'm curious because I'll likely need to pick one or the other at some point.

[GaryMcT]

And another question (since you have both Defender and Ms. Pacman)!

Is it as easy to remove the control panel on the Ms. Pacman as it is on the Defender machine?

Thanks!
Gary

[RetroACTIVE]

Great job on the restore!!!!!!!  And thanks for all of the careful measuring.

Why paint instead of laminate?  I'm curious because I'll likely need to pick one or the other at some point.

Original machine was painted and stenciled.. It was important to me to keep it as authentic as possible.  And you will find not too many classic cabs are actually laminated.

And another question (since you have both Defender and Ms. Pacman)!

Is it as easy to remove the control panel on the Ms. Pacman as it is on the Defender machine?

Thanks!
Gary

Oh... that was another unrelated project... yes a Ms. Pac panel comes off with just a flip of the latches just like Defender.

[GaryMcT]

Great job on the restore!!!!!!!  And thanks for all of the careful measuring.

Why paint instead of laminate?  I'm curious because I'll likely need to pick one or the other at some point.

Original machine was painted and stenciled.. It was important to me to keep it as authentic as possible.  And you will find not too many classic cabs are actually laminated.

And another question (since you have both Defender and Ms. Pacman)!

Is it as easy to remove the control panel on the Ms. Pacman as it is on the Defender machine?

Thanks!
Gary

Oh... that was another unrelated project... yes a Ms. Pac panel comes off with just a flip of the latches just like Defender.

Were all the originals painted?  Mine looks laminated with the red and yellow painted on top.

I'm just curious how replaceable Ms. Pac control panels are for a possible upcoming project.

You did a fantastic job by the way!!

[RetroACTIVE]

Were all the originals painted?  Mine looks laminated with the red and yellow painted on top.

I'm just curious how replaceable Ms. Pac control panels are for a possible upcoming project.

You did a fantastic job by the way!!

Yes... all Williams cabs were painted... if yours is otherwise, it has been done after by someone else.

Ms. Pac panels are easily replaceable.  MikesArcade sells blanks as well as some that have extra button holes... its a very common cab with plenty of stuff available for it.

Thanks for the compliments! 

[GaryMcT]

Were all the originals painted?  Mine looks laminated with the red and yellow painted on top.

I'm just curious how replaceable Ms. Pac control panels are for a possible upcoming project.

You did a fantastic job by the way!!

Yes... all Williams cabs were painted... if yours is otherwise, it has been done after by someone else.

Ms. Pac panels are easily replaceable.  MikesArcade sells blanks as well as some that have extra button holes... its a very common cab with plenty of stuff available for it.

Thanks for the compliments! 

I'll have to look at it in more detail.  The chipped off bits looked like laminate broken off, but I either didn't see it right or mine has been restored with laminate by someone else.

Cool!  I'll check out MikesArcade!  Thanks for the link?

Do you happen to know if Centipede control panels are also easily replaceable?  Trying to figure out what to do for my vertical machine.  I never want to start with a machine that is in decent shape and do anything that isn't reversible, so control panel replaceability is important!

[RetroACTIVE]

I don't think I've ever come across a cab that the control panel was not easily removed... so generally speaking that won't be an issue for ya!

Good Luck!

[GaryMcT]

This one has been done a million times... but just the same...

The control panel drawing seems off.  My defender control panel measures at 8" tall from a top-down view, not 9".  Is that what you see on yours?

Thanks!
Gary

[GaryMcT]

This one has been done a million times... but just the same...

The control panel drawing seems off.  My defender control panel measures at 8" tall from a top-down view, not 9".  Is that what you see on yours?

Thanks!
Gary

Also, the joystick width looks like it might be wrong too.  Looks like it's closer to 3/4" to me (I might be off by 1/16").  From what I can tell you have 5/16", which looks too small to me. 

Only reason that I noticed is because I'm building it in sketchup based on your measurements as a starting point for making new control panels.

Thanks again,
Gary

[RetroACTIVE]

The control panel drawing seems off.  My defender control panel measures at 8" tall from a top-down view, not 9".  Is that what you see on yours?

Thanks!
Gary

You may be right... I could have measured the panel starting on the 1" mark of the ruler... but I will double check all the numbers. 

[RetroACTIVE]

You are so right!  Those numbers are victims of cut and paste syndrome!  I'm sure I measured from the 1, hence the length error!

Sorry to anyone that got mislead by my poopy plans!

[GaryMcT]

You are so right!  Those numbers are victims of cut and paste syndrome!  I'm sure I measured from the 1, hence the length error!

Sorry to anyone that got mislead by my poopy plans!

Sweet!!!  What do you get for the joystick hole dimensions?  I can double-check 'em, but my joystick isn't out of the control panel yet, so it's a bit hardt o measure.

[spriggy]

Gr8 job on resto and documentation dude     

This is project #4 because of your work.  Thx

PS

If I haven't said it --BINGO! Either that, or I was attempting to say "before" but it was too many letters to type--.... nice repro Spacies 

[andykmv]

retroactive,
I have been researching defender cab dimensions for a while and have not had much luck but have a bunch of parts ready to build a cab so this is fantastic work!

just wondering if you still have the dimensions for the top three panels, the bit above the back door, the vent panel above the back door and the very top panel!

cheers!

[RetroACTIVE]

You are so right!  Those numbers are victims of cut and paste syndrome!  I'm sure I measured from the 1, hence the length error!

Sorry to anyone that got mislead by my poopy plans!

Sweet!!!  What do you get for the joystick hole dimensions?  I can double-check 'em, but my joystick isn't out of the control panel yet, so it's a bit hardt o measure.

Yes I need to correct the drawing... but mine is put together as well, so I'm in the same boat you are

retroactive,
I have been researching defender cab dimensions for a while and have not had much luck but have a bunch of parts ready to build a cab so this is fantastic work!

just wondering if you still have the dimensions for the top three panels, the bit above the back door, the vent panel above the back door and the very top panel!

cheers!

They are somewhere... I'll look around and post them as soon as I can.

[GaryMcT]

This one has been done a million times... but just the same...

Did you end up replicating the button hole shape and use short-shaft buttons for your new control panel, or did you cut a hole straight threw and use long shaft?

Thanks!
Gary

[RetroACTIVE]

I used long leafs, which required me to route the back side under each switch holder...

[CathalDublin]

hey RetroACTIVE

I know this thread is wayyyy old, but I'm finally getting around to giving my defender cabinet the love it deserved and I'm looking for the overlay you used.
gameongraphix don't seem to list it and I was wondering would you have a copy of the file used?
You cabinet looks awesome by the way, excellent work.

I've found one here but its not quite as good as yours
http://www.arcadeoverlays.com/StoreFrontProfiles/DeluxeSFItemDetail.aspx?sid=1&sfid=17232&c=0&i=250278371

Living in Ireland is a pita sometimes
Cheers