Beginner Wiring / Encoding Questions

[QuackMasterDan]

Hi there, I've finished building my arcade machine and all I left to do now is wire up the buttons and I have no idea what I am getting into here.

First off, on my control panel I have 58 inputs. 4 joysticks, 6 buttons each, and the rest are miscellaneous buttons (coin, start, pause, etc). First off, I really do not want to do any soldering if possible. The iPac looks very appealing as I can just screw in the wires to the board, and I was just going to thread the wire through the holes on my microswitch and twist.

As the largest iPac is 56 inputs, with 2 of them shift. I cannot use 58 inputs on a 54 input board. So I guess the iPac is out of the question (is it?) So the first question is, what keyboard encoder should I purchase? I don't want to have to do any soldering, and do not know how to crimp wires.

Next question: I've read that I need to purchase a wiring block, and after looking on google, sites like amazon, the best I can make of it is that a wiring block is a strip of metal, that can output electricity to many common connectors on microswitches. I'm not sure how to use one, and do not know exactly what it is.

The final question, what is the easiest method for a complete soldering/crimping/wiring newbie to hook 58 inputs into an arcade machine. Also, should I use USB or PS/2?

Thanks for reading this much. 

[am_monkee]

Though I'm a newb myself, I'd recommend either the ipacs or the keywiz. Don't try to hack a keyboard if you're unsure how. The ipac has 56 inputs which has each 4 joysticks, 8 buttons, and things like coin 1,2,3,4, etc. I'm fairly certain this would work for you. If you get the ipac, you'd just need to screw the wires in the respective places-it's very easy. The ipac is from ultimarc.com

The keywiz can be found on groovygamegear.com. I haven't used it, so I can't speak directly, but I know a lot of people seem satisfied.


I use the minipac ps/2 and it works great. I'd recommend ps/2 over usb, but that is really a personal preference for me. Ultimarc sells good products and the ipac is easily to install, hook up, and interface w/ your pc.

Hope this helps and good luck.

[Apollo]

Generally there is no need to have more than 4 buttons for players 3 and 4 however you have already made the holes so too late.

4 joys=16 inputs
6 buttons each=24 inputs

I'm not sure where you are seeing a problem as that is only 40 inputs?
To connect you just need a whole lot of quick connects and you're all set to go.

[BobA]

Not to say you counted wrong but 58 seems like way too many inputs for 4 joys and 6 buttons plus extras.  The joys and buttons add up to just 40 inputs.   You do not need terminal blocks but some like to use them for grounds. A more common way to handle the ground is to  daisy chain your ground wire from switch to switch.

DO NOT WRAP AND TWIST the wires to your microswitches.  You will have nothing but problems with bad connections.  The common way to connect is to use a crimping tool and push on connectors.

[Spaz Monkey]

Well, first thing, you need to recount your "inputs".  Most 4 player games don't need 6 buttons.  Most 2 player games only need 6 buttons.  And for a single player with 6 buttons, you have 12 inputs & 1 ground (4 for joy, 6 for buttons, 2 for start & credit).  You can have 1 common ground for all inputs.

As for the wiring block, it will not output electricity to many common connectors (cut & pasted from your post). All it will do is allow you to do is connect wires and make it look nice.  The fuse box in your car is like a wiring block. (very basic analogy).  You cannot plug one wire in on one end and have the other side active.  The wiring block is a cheap & inexpensive alternative to Molex.

Darn, two posts too late.

[Fozzy The Bear]

4 joys=16 inputs
6 buttons each=24 inputs
I'm not sure where you are seeing a problem as that is only 40 inputs?

I know what he's done.... He's counting 8 way joysticks as being 32 inputs.

What he's missed is that joysticks only use 4 inputs not 8.  and the diagonals are read as being a combination of two switch presses at the same time.

Best Regards,
Julian (Fozzy The Bear)

[am_monkee]

good catch fozzy.

in any case, quack, the ipac should work fine.

[Arcades R Fun]

QuackMasterDan

Congrats on your 4 player panel project! 
Nothing beats your first time............................................building a panel.

Looks like you have several days until you buy/receive your 4 player encoder board.

I'm currently documenting a customers 4 player wiring job.
The "How To Wire A Control Panel" guide will be done in about 2-3 weeks and will be posted in the "How To" section of our site. It will be a step by step guide with example pictures throughout the process.

If you are recessing your trackball mounting pate there will also be a how to guide for the seamless install with auto body putty ( known as BONDO to many of us).

Good Luck with your panel!
Jack

[QuackMasterDan]

First off, thankyou for the many replies. I havent had the chance to check back on the thread and now I am, here is how my setup works:

I did a kind of strange setup. I have three main admin buttons: Load, Save, and Pause.
The load and save buttons save to 4 save/load slots.
I also have P1-P4 Credit & Start
And finally 3 function buttons to do whatever (sound, get through menus, etc)
4 players x 6 buttons each

It adds up to
4 Joystics = 16 inputs
6 Buttonsx4players = 24 inputs
P1-P4 = 4x2= 8 inputs
Function x 3 = 3 inputs
Save,Pause,Load = 3 inputs
Save Slots = 4 inputs

The total is: 58 inputs.

Thanks for clearing up the wiring block and crimping methods. I saw a photo of a person who attached his wires to small clamps. So it was easy to switch his buttons. How hard is this to pull off?

Now as for what kinds of physical wires?
Do I need AC wires? Is the AC wire another name for the ground? And I believe that is 18AWG wire
Also, to wire my buttons to the iPAC I should use 24AWG?

I hope that clears things up, and thankyou again for this great board. I haven't made many post and I can already tell it is a great community of great people.

P.S. A photo album of the arcade machine is available on my facebook at http://fresno.facebook.com/album.php?aid=7803&id=702100424

[Spaz Monkey]

First, there aren't (to my knowledge) 6 button 4 player games.  The most would be like 3 or 4 for P3 & P4. So I think you can get rid of some of those buttons.  In addition, you will have the shift function for some of the things too.

[bfauska]

Now as for what kinds of physical wires?
Do I need AC wires? Is the AC wire another name for the ground? And I believe that is 18AWG wire
Also, to wire my buttons to the iPAC I should use 24AWG?

For some situations this may be over simplified, but in the case of wiring up your cp, wire is wire.  AC wire, DC wire, solid core wire, electric fence wire, wire coat hanger, speaker wire, barbed wire, it will all work the same, seriously.  The only thing to worry about in the control panel is if the wire is easy to work with.  I wouldn't recommend using 12awg or larger (small number big wire) and I wouldn't recommend using anything smaller than 30awg (most ribbon cable is 30awg.) 
If the wire is too small it becomes fragile and difficult to handle, if it is too large you won't be able to get it into clean small bunches. 

In the real world the wire gauge makes more difference although you can basically never have too big of a wire.  Smaller wire has more resistance and when you use it for high power applications or for long distances (resistance is cumulative) you will loose power or loose the signal that the power is sending.  For our purposes the signal is a simple on or off and the level of power going through the line is tiny. 

Other cable/wire ratings have to do with insulation, which is also more important in the real world, or in your audio and video and power cables in the cabinet.  Insulation keeps you from getting shocked, keeps signals from interfering with each other and keeps the signals and circuits separate when wires touch.  For the wires in your cp the power is once again small enough and the signal simple enough that the most basic insulation will do.  The insulation only needs to keep each wire from shorting out with each other.  Ribbon cable is an example of what I would consider the smallest/least insulated cable worth using.

I realize that in spite of saying I was going to simplify I probably just lost most of your attention about half way through the first paragraph, but I didn't want to be too vague.  Sorry if I rambled on.

Hope this helps,
Brian

P.S. I couldn't view your pictures, it seems like I have to register to see other peoples stuff on that site, you should post your pics on www.photobucket.com or something, maybe start a project announcement thread here and post in it.

[MaximRecoil]

Get some 20 gauge stranded wire at Radio Shack or wherever, and some crimp-on .187 quick disconnects to wire your control panel. If I were doing it, I'd send an email to Bob Roberts requesting something along the lines of:

(quantity = 1) Bag of 20GA 10' x 10 colors (100' total) $8.00
(quantity = 1) Bag Of 100 Red Partially Insulated .187 QDs (#3)  $6.00 

http://therealbobroberts.net/

The wire packs are also available in striped colors for a few dollars more, and there are several options for .187 QD's. Adjust the quantity to what you think you'll need, and be sure to thoroughly read his Ordering FAQ before emailing him.
 

[Tiger-Heli]

First off, thankyou for the many replies. I havent had the chance to check back on the thread and now I am, here is how my setup works:

I did a kind of strange setup. I have three main admin buttons: Load, Save, and Pause.
The load and save buttons save to 4 save/load slots.
I also have P1-P4 Credit & Start
And finally 3 function buttons to do whatever (sound, get through menus, etc)
4 players x 6 buttons each

It adds up to
4 Joystics = 16 inputs
6 Buttonsx4players = 24 inputs
P1-P4 = 4x2= 8 inputs
Function x 3 = 3 inputs
Save,Pause,Load = 3 inputs
Save Slots = 4 inputs
The total is: 58 inputs.

Thanks for clarifying the inputs.

First-off, the I-PAC/4 is a 56-input, not a 54-input board as you stated earlier - yes, two of the buttons are shift inputs, but they also send a regular code.  (You can't have 56 "Action" inputs and still use the shift function, but you can have 56 inputs).  This is a feature, as you can use the shift function to eliminate buttons from your panel.  If you have your "shift" inputs assigned to say COIN 3 and COIN 4 - the only potential problem would be if you pressed another key while COIN3 or COIN4 were depressed, it might send the wrong input.  If this really would bug you, set each button so the standard and shifted button are the same thing.  Then the only problem is you might (rarely) need to press Coin3 or 4 twice before it registered.

For Save Slots - Do these map to 1-4 - So you press the Load button and 1-4 and it sends F7-1, for example.  In that case, (for MAME, at least), your Save Slots and your P1-P4 Start buttons are the same input and you can wire two buttons to the same I-PAC input and you now only need 54 inputs, so you are good to go.

If you are only using arcade games, you only need 4 buttons for player 3 and 4, so there's 4 less inputs.  If you are looking at console emulation, you really need 8 buttons for Player 1-4, so you can't get there from here anyway.

You are two inputs above the I-PAC/4 capacity, but you have 3 inputs defined as: And finally 3 function buttons to do whatever (sound, get through menus, etc)  If you don't even know what the buttons will do, is it possible you might want to use shifted inputs for them rather than having dedicated buttons on your panel with TBD functions?

If you are absolutely set on 58-inputs, you have the following options:

Hagstrom sells a 72-input encoder, but it's very expensive.

Use a PS/2 mouse hack (or trackball interface, if you will have a trackball or spinner on your panel), and use the mouse left/right button inputs for your extra buttons (if your emulator's support this, MAME does).

Hack a gamepad and use the gamepad buttons for your extra input (if your emulator's support this, MAME does).

Hack a keyboard and plug it into the passthru port on the I-PAC/4.  (I don't recommend keyboard hacks in general), but for this situation, it would be okay - (except I think you said you don't want to do soldering - so that kills some of these options.)  Learn to crimp wires!!!!

Buy a KeyWiz or KeyWizEco and use it with the Pass-thru port on the I-PAC/4.

Buy a GP-Wiz Eco and use it in USB along with the I-PAC/4.

Buy an I-PAC/2 and use it in the pass-thru port of the I-PAC/4.

Thanks for clearing up the wiring block and crimping methods. I saw a photo of a person who attached his wires to small clamps. So it was easy to switch his buttons. How hard is this to pull off?

By small clamps, are you referring to Quick Disconnects - like these or these? or something else?

By "pull off" do you mean how hard is it to do, or physically how hard is it to remove the terminal?  The above is what most of us use.  They are simple to use, (get some inexpensive crimping pliers), pretty easy to take off if you ever need to, but secure enough that they won't fall off on their own.

Now as for what kinds of physical wires?
Do I need AC wires? Is the AC wire another name for the ground? And I believe that is 18AWG wire
Also, to wire my buttons to the iPAC I should use 24AWG?

As others said, it really doesn't matter.  Stranded wire is more flexible and easier to work with than solid, and 22-24AWG is thinner, cheaper, and easier to work with than higher (18-16AWG) gauge wire, and 32AWG will carry the signal, although it is too thin to get a good crimp on.

[bfauska]

Tiger-Heli,

Good catch on the pointer about small cable being difficult to get a good crimp on.  I didn't point that out, but it has haunted me in the past.

QuackMaster,

Without using Terminal Strips or soldering there is really no good way to go from a ribbon cable or other similar gauge wire to your buttons.  And even with the terminal strip you need to carefully get the wire locked down.  I strip about 1/2" and then twist the stripped copper back around the insulation to give the set screw something to bite into.

If you have access to the equipment, it is easy to solder and can be a very clean and useful solution to the wiring.  There are several tutorials on-line and the process is fairly simple.

Goodluck and keep us posted.
Later,
Brian

[Tiger-Heli]

Without using Terminal Strips or soldering there is really no good way to go from a ribbon cable or other similar gauge wire to your buttons.  And even with the terminal strip you need to carefully get the wire locked down.  I strip about 1/2" and then twist the stripped copper back around the insulation to give the set screw something to bite into.

In general, I recommend staying away from ribbon cable.  The exception being usage with encoders like the KeyWiz Eco, Gp-Wiz Eco, and Mini-Pac that use an IDE header.  And even then you end up needed terminal strips and the cost of the terminal strips more than eats up and possible cost savings from the ribbon cables.

If you have access to the equipment, it is easy to solder and can be a very clean and useful solution to the wiring.  There are several tutorials on-line and the process is fairly simple.

Well, I've never had any luck with it and avoid it like the plague, but yeah, it is useful if you can learn to do it!!!

[QuackMasterDan]

Wow, this forum has been a great help it looks like I'm getting closer to wiring it (since I know what to get )

So to clarify, I should get a bag of 20 gauge wire, a whole bunch of matching quick disconnects (100 or so), two or three terminal blocks, and some crimping pliers.

I'm starting to understand this more and more, so to clarify:
Each button will have on the NO port a wire going to the iPAC?
The ground (electricity supplying) wire goes into one end on the terminal block, and then the terminal block has alot of outlets for each microswitch?

I'm not really sure how I am supposed to get electricity to all of my buttons (and joysticks)

[Tiger-Heli]

Wow, this forum has been a great help it looks like I'm getting closer to wiring it (since I know what to get )
So to clarify, I should get a bag of 20 gauge wire, a whole bunch of matching quick disconnects (100 or so), two or three terminal blocks, and some crimping pliers.

You still have to narrow down inputs and then interfaces before you are ready for wiring.

Terminal blocks are optional at best and generally not required.

I'm starting to understand this more and more, so to clarify:
Each button will have on the NO port a wire going to the iPAC?
The ground (electricity supplying) wire goes into one end on the terminal block, and then the terminal block has alot of outlets for each microswitch?

Typically, you will have a dedicated wire from the NO terminal on each button to the associated labelled terminal on your encoder.  You will have one wire segment from the encoder's GND terminal, to the GND terminal on the first button, another segment joining this (two wires in one connector), going to the next button's GND terminal, another segment from button 2's GND terminal to Button 3's GND terminal, and so forth, and optionally back to GND on the encoder.  Routing of GND wires are in order of distance from the encoder, not necessarily button order.  Wire each encoder independently if using multiple encoders.

I'm not really sure how I am supposed to get electricity to all of my buttons (and joysticks)

http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=64887.0