Top 10 Mame mistakes that keep getting copied from one machine to another.

[paigeoliver]

Ok, I was thinking and I decided that a good topic for discussion might be the top 10 Mame mistakes that keep getting copied from one machine to another. And of course for almost every one of these there will be a few exceptions where they are not mistakes, but not many.

#1. The two piece cabinet. I am not sure who is originally responsible for this design, in which the top half of the cabinet bolts onto the bottom half. It might have been neat for a one off design, but real games were not made this way, it really complicates the building of the cabinet, and makes it weigh a lot more. I think the idea is that it might somehow make the machine easier to move. If ease of movement is your concern than you are better off building with plywood instead of MDF.

#2. The notch at the back of the cabinet near the ground. Not sure who came up with this one either, although it is often combined with the two peice cabinet. All this notch does is make the machine harder to build, less stable, and much harder to move since you cannot get a dolly under a notched cabinet.

#3. The notch at the front of the cabinet. I see this one on cabinets with large panels, where the cabinet will bulge out on the front about a foot from the ground, and the the panel itself will bulge out past the bulge. Once again, same issues as the notch in the back of the cabinet, added compexity, less stability, and now you can't get a dolly under the front of the thing either.

#4. Cabinets with internal frames. Arcade cabinets do not need internal frames made out of 2x4s. It is just added weight with no functionality.

#5. Angled joysticks. 4 player machines did NOT angle the joysticks for player 3 and 4. The only post 1977 game us researchers could find that did this was Mercs, and playing Mercs on a side position is painful.

#6. Too much depth in the control panels. I see this a lot control panels that are just WAY too deep for no good reason. If you want to have lots of Golden Tee room you are better off just leaning your monitor back than you are having a panel that is 2 or 3 feet deep. Even dedicated 4 player machines usually didn't have panels that deep, and rarely had panels that extended more than a few inches off the side or front of the cabinet.

#7. Grafting large panels onto classic cabinets. This can be done with a slightly larger panel and still be decent. But I see it done wrong about 30 times for every time I see it done right. In worst case scenarios this makes for cabinets that are physically unstable and just waiting to tip over.

#8. Adding a dedicated 4-way, but using the WRONG one. The happ fighter sticks might have a 4-way mode on them but that mode is useless for actual 4-way games, it is really only useful for modern puzzle games, but modern puzzle games actually play fine with 8-way sticks.

#9. Tiny monitor, with a piece of black construction paper bezel. Your monitor should be the single largest expense in your cabinet, unless you are doing a really strange project. Your monitor should mostly fill the monitor bay in your cabinet. General rule of thumb is that a 1 player cabinet under 22" wide can use a 13" or 15" monitor. 23" to 25" wide needs a 19" minimum (21" if using a computer monitor), and larger than that should have a 27" or larger display.

The black piece of construction paper looks a lot better if you at least spray paint the plastic casing of that PC monitor black.

#10. Using various "hacks" when they just are not needed anymore. This is not 1998 anymore. Just say no to keyboard hacks, gamepad hacks, I'd even say to avoid mouse hacks. The real hardware is available to hook up everything these days, and it isn't even expensive. I have seen enough hacks self destruct that I just can't recommend using them at all.

[richms]

nothing wrong with the gamepad hacks, makes for simple USB hookup without buying anything else.

Keyboards, well yeah. Admin buttons only in my cab. Unsuitable for playing even with diodes.

[mwatson]

Noob Comment: In regards to using the "wrong" 4-way stick, I take it the Happ Ultimate 4-way falls in that category?

*sigh* Serves me right for ordering before I did sufficient research 

[btp2k2]

Yeah, what is wrong with gamepad hacks?

I am in the process of making a cabinet running my Sega Dreamcast...you got a better solution than a gamepad hack?

[paigeoliver]

Noob Comment: In regards to using the "wrong" 4-way stick, I take it the Happ Ultimate 4-way falls in that category?

*sigh* Serves me right for ordering before I did sufficient research 

Yes it does. Last I checked Happ had two serviceable 4-way sticks available. The replacement stick for the Nacmo reunion and the Happ Universal stick (also sold under a dozen different names by other companies).

As for gamepad hacks. Yes, they are required if you are making a console based cabinet (although you should really ask yourself why you would be making a console based cabinet), otherwise avoid like the plague. They are fragile little beasts.

[btp2k2]

Why?

Simple....MAME doesn't support Street Fighter 3, Marvel Vs. Capcom 2, Virtua Fighter 3, Dead or Alive 2, Capcom Vs. SNK, Crazy Taxi...etc....Plus, it's a cheap way to add a fun cabinet to the game room.

[paigeoliver]

Great, you have a valid reason, many people build console cabinets without one.

Why?

Simple....MAME doesn't support Street Fighter 3, Marvel Vs. Capcom 2, Virtua Fighter 3, Dead or Alive 2, Capcom Vs. SNK, Crazy Taxi...etc....Plus, it's a cheap way to add a fun cabinet to the game room.

[btp2k2]

The way I see it is the more experience you can get building these things, the better you get at it. And the better you get at it, the least likely you are to commit one of the ten follies listed above =)

(In actuality, the real reason for building the DC cab is so I have something to play while my wife is hogging the main cab)

We should also add the dreaded "Frankenpanel" to the list....I hate the way a control panel looks with 1500 different buttons and gizmos on it....Unfortunately, there isn't a ton of options there

[Organic Jerk]

I just came into possession of a Dreamcast and I was considering doing the same thing since I also want MvC2 and others, but in addition to my already hooked up PC... which might be a bit of a pain since all the buttons are wired already...  I'm not sure if I should hack a gamepad or spend the extra money and get the weird "DC>PSX>IPAC" adapter thing that Andy mentions on his site.

Great list, it's very insightful.... but I'm not sure I understand what you mean by "notches" ... I'm currently in the process of building and I would love to know what to avoid..

[btp2k2]

The DC adapter is about 70 pounds....not sure what that translates too in dollars...about 100?

Too much for my blood

Link

[DrewKaree]

Plus, it's a cheap way to add a fun cabinet to the game room.

Were you just putting this out there to see what it looked like?


You're buying a console, then building a couple-hundred-dollar cabinet to play something in a room that should already have a TV which you can connect a console to.....FOR FREE!

Which would be easier to move?  A console and a television, or a cabinet?

Console & TV = 1 person.
Cabinet = 1 person and a dolly, or 2 people.  Got a dolly handy?  If so, you just added to the cost of your "cheap" solution, if not, you've gotta ha......nevermind.  You've gotta be just looking for any reason to build a cab, and your wife bought that.

[vrf]

while I agree with several of those "mistakes" listed above, I'm a little uncomfortable with this idea that there's a "right" way to build a cab. Seems to violate the entire DIY spirit of this website.

If a guy wants to overbuild a little bit with an internal frame, who are you to say that it's the wrong way to do this hobby? I'd guess Pixelhugger couldn't care less if you were to tell him that his massive exotic wood cab with steel artwork "adds extra weight without functionality."

All that said, the tiny monitor/construction paper thing certainly drives me batty...

[paigeoliver]

Well, a lot of the mistakes are made by well intentioned new builders who want to make machines like real arcade games, but are copying things off of other cabinets. Some of the truly complex masterpieces out there are pretty much beyond this document. If you are making machines out of fiberglass and stainless steel then you really don't need any advice from me.

Ok, here is a picture of the infamous rear notch attached at the bottom of this post.

And for a look at a cabinet that combines almost every "design problem", then look here at the http://www.mameroom.com/product_UltimateArcadeII.asp Ultimate Arcade II. Manages to work in front notch, rear notch, 2 piece cabinet, and two deep of a control panel all into one cabinet. And to avoid insult without praise, I think the Ultimate Arcade I, their cocktail cabinet and their showcase cabinet (same website) are all really faithful designs.

[paigeoliver]

Here is an example of a front notch cabinet. And just so people don't think I am picking on everyone, this cabinet used to belong to me.

[SavannahLion]

Umm.... About the notched thing. I don't want to argue your points, I'm just not certain if it's really as simple as one would make out.

The UAI example you give for the notched back isn't a really good example at all. From what I can tell, without looking at the schematic, the cab has a "foot" extending out at the very bottom below that notch. In essence, the foot makes up for the missing material from the notch and stabilizes the cab. You can still get a dolly under that portion, except I don't know how strong it would be.

The drawing you show, however, is probably a nice example of poor cab design. The foot lacking at the back would make the cab more prone to tipping backwards. And are those wheels at the bottom?

As for the notch at the front. I asked someone about this once years ago. I think he's feeding me ---smurf-poop---, but I've been told that it's to better accomodate people in wheel chairs. Of course, I've never seen a person in a wheel chair play an arcade machine so I don't know if they can justifiably reach the controls much less be able to look over and see the screen. 

Would I do the notching on my future cab? On the back, no. I need the internal space. On the front? I am, but that's because it's part of the original cab I'm basing the design off of. The beast is massive enough as it is, notching the front appears to lower the weight.

[Teebor]

Number 4 Cabinets with internal frames ??

I must argue this one, as without an internal frame there is no way my monitor could safely be mounted inside the cabinet.
Yes the cabinet is sturdy (sorted that eventually when I realised my mistakes) but it is still not strong enough on its own to hold the monitor, so it needed additional structure just to support the monitor.  None anywhere else though.

I'm not sure of the exact weight of the monitor but it is a two man lift to move it anywhere, I'm a big bloke and I had to three stage lift it into position with support at each stage because it is just plain too heavy.

Looks great though as it f'in HUUUUUGE!!!

[paigeoliver]

How large is your monitor? That woodgrain thing in the picture above was built out of 5/8" plywood unframed and was holding a 27".

Either way, I want to see some pictures of the giant monitor.

[DrewKaree]

Number 4 Cabinets with internal frames ??

I must argue this one, as without an internal frame there is no way my monitor could safely be mounted inside the cabinet.

My guess is that you're referring to a frame for your monitor area, and that Paige is referring to the full-cabinet types of frames.  Two different things.  If I'm wrong, you guys will say so, and I'd also like to see the ginormous monitor.

[paigeoliver]

Yes, I have seen some build pages where the builder builds up a big frame out of 2x4s and then attaches all the cabinet boards to it. It is actually a LOT more difficult to build a cabinet that way because once you build a frame there is no room for error in any of the panels.

Traditional designs actually allow a little room for error, the cuts don't need to all be perfect to the millimeter.

Number 4 Cabinets with internal frames ??

I must argue this one, as without an internal frame there is no way my monitor could safely be mounted inside the cabinet.

My guess is that you're referring to a frame for your monitor area, and that Paige is referring to the full-cabinet types of frames.  Two different things.  If I'm wrong, you guys will say so, and I'd also like to see the ginormous monitor.

[Timoe]

1-4, 6 & 7 are false.  These are not mistakes but rather personal preference of design.  How boring would arcades be if they all were black squares.  I say to you paige oliver, that this is not 1988.  If a builder wants a custom or modern style to their cabinet, good for them and good for this hobby.

2-piece cabinet - If I had a one piece cabinet, I never would have been able to move it into my house by myself or get it through the doors.  If I built the machine smaller it would not have been what I really wanted.

Notches in front, on the side, the top, back or diagonally through the middle.  I'll take my notch anywhere I darned well please you nazi. 

Deep control panels - yeah we could build the CP with a depth of eight inches but then you would be so close that the players perspective on that big ol monitor would suck.

You have maybe one valid point - the angled joysticks, add to that, too many buttons but otherwise calling design choices of cabinets or individuality a mistake is just silly.

but so is your avatar 

[danny_galaga]

some valid points. but i would suggest #9 isnt so much copied from cabinet to cabinet but rather that people end up putting in small monitors for the same reason- this is what i have, that will get me started and ill replace it as soon as i can. posting a  photo at this stage is a no no in my books though 

[HaRuMaN]

I just came into possession of a Dreamcast and I was considering doing the same thing since I also want MvC2 and others, but in addition to my already hooked up PC... which might be a bit of a pain since all the buttons are wired already...  I'm not sure if I should hack a gamepad or spend the extra money and get the weird "DC>PSX>IPAC" adapter thing that Andy mentions on his site.

Great list, it's very insightful.... but I'm not sure I understand what you mean by "notches" ... I'm currently in the process of building and I would love to know what to avoid..

Hack a gamepad!!!

[Bones]

I don't like the word mistake to describe somebody’s cabinet or choice of shape/structure.

I prefer the word design.

[TOK]

How did the King Of Weird Decisions return as such an expert on MAME cabs? 

[leapinlew]

I haven't been posting regularly for a long time, so I have probably missed a zillion new projects.

Theres your problem paige...

Seems like the times are changing a bit. Lots of the guys building arcade games now are building them to play multiple emulators. In fact, calling them MAME machines probably is a generic term that isn't accurate. If your working under the assumption that people are trying to build arcade machines, you'll see lots of "mistakes" but many folks are building game stations that will play many console and computer games.

Also - technology has changed the hobby. LCD's - have made monitors much thinner and has allowed for newer designs. Heres an example of a newer arcade that doesn't look anything like an old arcade but is a great machine none the less:


http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=55789.0

Things have definitely changed.

[mountain]

1-4, 6 & 7 are false.  These are not mistakes but rather personal preference of design.  How boring would arcades be if they all were black squares.  I say to you paige oliver, that this is not 1988.  If a builder wants a custom or modern style to their cabinet, good for them and good for this hobby.

Agreed. I think categorizing these as mistakes goes against everything thing this site is about. A more useful list would be actual mistakes at the build level, not the design level. Documenting mistakes such as using the t-molding slot cutter backwards, or using the wrong drill bit for acrylic is much more useful to the new guy.

This thread should be re-named paigeoliver’s top ten pet peeves.

[shardian]

About deep control panels:
The majority of MAME cabs now have a trackball for Golden Tee. A deep control panel is totally necessary for playing golden tee, bowling, etc.

[johnm160]

Can you explain angled joysticks to me please?

I am getting ready to route out the recesses for the joysticks on my 4 player panel that is based on the UAII CP plans.

Thanks

[Numbski]

Well, I may wind up re-doing my CP top, and if I do, then I need some opinions:





Originally I was just going to do a custom overlay, but I made enough mistakes building the top that I may just do it over.  No angled outer players?

Dimensions are roughly 48"x15.5"  I designed the game for maximum elbow room.  The thing that drove me nuts about fighting game cabinets, is that player 2 always seemed to be at a disadvantage, as either you had to elbow your opponent, or hold your arm at some screwy cock-eyed angle.

On new year's eve, myself and three other guys completed TMNT with no issues, and I was in the player 1 slot for that game (far left, angled) and I didn't notice at all.  Is this really such a bane?

I have the rest of the pics here:

http://www.numbski.com/cab

and the panel work I'm doing now here:

http://www.numbski.com/hacks/cab

anyhoo...   

[(+_+)]

I'd agree with some of the points but disagree with others.

I'd have to say the "notch" in the back is unecessary but I have always found it improves the look by 10%.

The front notch to me can be important (and maybe even unoticably so for those who merely copy cab designs) because it gives you a little extra foot room.

The inner frame may be a waste if you are building the traditional box cab, but as soon as you start creating more complex shaped ones, I believe it helps you, reinforces those edges and prevents any twisting or warping especially if you are using oak, pine, maple etc.

[FrizzleFried]

I wonder what Paige thinks about showcase cabinets...

 

[HaRuMaN]

Well, I may wind up re-doing my CP top, and if I do, then I need some opinions:





Originally I was just going to do a custom overlay, but I made enough mistakes building the top that I may just do it over.  No angled outer players?

Dimensions are roughly 48"x15.5"  I designed the game for maximum elbow room.  The thing that drove me nuts about fighting game cabinets, is that player 2 always seemed to be at a disadvantage, as either you had to elbow your opponent, or hold your arm at some screwy cock-eyed angle.

On new year's eve, myself and three other guys completed TMNT with no issues, and I was in the player 1 slot for that game (far left, angled) and I didn't notice at all.  Is this really such a bane?

I have the rest of the pics here:

http://www.numbski.com/cab

and the panel work I'm doing now here:

http://www.numbski.com/hacks/cab

anyhoo...   

Also, players 3 & 4 (your outer players) need 4 buttons at the very most.

[spelosi]

Yeah, what is wrong with gamepad hacks?

I am in the process of making a cabinet running my Sega Dreamcast...you got a better solution than a gamepad hack?

I don't have a problem with gamepad hacks, but to save yourself A LOT of time you could go with an x-arcade stick, gut it and install it in your CP. They sell an adapter to use the x-arcade with Dreamcast.

I'm using a gutted tankstick in my CP and am very happy with it.

X-gaming also sells do-it-yourself kits, so you don't have to gut the x-arcade. This could save some dollars, but is only really valuable if you don't want to use their bottons. I used their buttons for a while, but now I've swapped them all out.

Anyway, it's a better option than a gamepad hack.

Good luck!

Steve

[Crowquill]

I'd agree with most of those, but I'm also one of the guys who keeps posting links to real cabs on KLOV as examples on how to do things. I think that Atari, Midway, and Konami probably have experimented with enough designs to know what worked best when using standard parts. That said, I'm very bull-headed about trying to find a better/different way to do things. But I still keep looking to multiple examples of the old cabs for reference. I think it's great that people try new things, but like the title of the post says, it's also a shame to see some of these things repeated.

The two-piece cabs have one thing going for them. For many people without nice side-art, they end up looking better than many of the traditional-style cabs. The only classic cab I can think of with a two-piece design is Gorf and that design was simplified to a 1-piece with Tron's cabinet.

The notched front started out on classic cabs as a way to have more foot-room. Unfortunately it snowballed from there. You can integrate a keyboard tray without adding an ugly lump on the front. And like the example with the Ultracade marquee, you'd break your back if you really wanted to use the coin door.

For the back, I prefer to see an extended box built on the back panel than to have the notched back. This is how my Primal Rage cab is made. But then again if you look at a Neo-Geo cab you'll see the notched back.

A 4-way Super is better than using an 8-way, but I wince whenever I see someone posting that they're going to re-create the experience of playing a real Pac-Man machine with a microswitched joystick. My MAME cab uses two beat-up 8-way wico leaf sticks.

I'm overjoyed that keyboard hacks are a thing of the past. Gamepad hacks can work. My MAME cab uses two PS1 Dual Shocks with Spiffyshoes solderless hack (much cheaper than an X-Arcade). I already had the right revisions of the controllers and my soldering skills suck. I have two of the Innovation PS-> DC adapters and adapters to use gamecube and Xbox with PS pads. When I started building my cab it was going to do everything. Now I only play arcade games on it.  Since then I've soft-modded my XBOX and now I can play the emulators on the TV where they were intended. My cocktail I'm currently building will use a mini-pac.

[HaRuMaN]

Yeah, what is wrong with gamepad hacks?

I am in the process of making a cabinet running my Sega Dreamcast...you got a better solution than a gamepad hack?

I don't have a problem with gamepad hacks, but to save yourself A LOT of time you could go with an x-arcade stick, gut it and install it in your CP. They sell an adapter to use the x-arcade with Dreamcast.

I'm using a gutted tankstick in my CP and am very happy with it.

X-gaming also sells do-it-yourself kits, so you don't have to gut the x-arcade. This could save some dollars, but is only really valuable if you don't want to use their bottons. I used their buttons for a while, but now I've swapped them all out.

Anyway, it's a better option than a gamepad hack.

Good luck!

Steve

X-Arcade controls suck.  Period.  Stay far far away from them.

[RandyT]

I guess I'll chime in on this too   Sorry about the huge post.

#1. The two piece cabinet.

Honestly, I can't find flaw in doing this.  Innovation in cabinet design is what made the arcades what they were, and embracing that concept when one builds their own vision, be it 2 piece or more, is just dandy in my book.  It would be nice if they weren't all identical, but if you like the same design someone else uses, then there's no problem in adopting it for yourself.

#2. The notch at the back of the cabinet near the ground. <snip>
#3. The notch at the front of the cabinet. <snip>

Again, similar answer to #1, but with a caveat.  If you can't move it, it's probably not a great design.  You spent a lot of time and money building the cab, so assume that you will A: want to keep it a while, which means you will eventually want to move it, or B: want to  sell it at some point to recoup some of your investment.  Doing things that make those exceedingly difficult should probably be avoided.

#4. Cabinets with internal frames. Arcade cabinets do not need internal frames made out of 2x4s. It is just added weight with no functionality.

Hmmm....I might agree that cabinets don't need internal frames made out of 2x4's, but there is a lot of stuff in real arcade games that could be considered "framing".  The construction methods are based on some heavy duty cabinetry skills that, let's be realistic, all aren't going to possess.  Framing is a shortcut that provides stability, and when used sparingly, won't add that much to the weight, but can go a long way in keeping your cabinet from getting the "shakes."

#5. Angled joysticks.<snip>

Agreed.  If a control isn't in the correct orientation with the screen, It's probably going to be a pain for the individual using it.

#6. Too much depth in the control panels.<snip>

I have to go back to #1 on this one.  Avoid the "flying wing" designs, but if someone wants to make sure they have room for a trackball, spinner, dedicated 4-way, etc., deep panels are going to be unavoidable.  It's hard to justify not doing something solely because "it wasn't done that way in the arcades."  There were a lot of artificial limitations in cabinets designed for commercial deployment that just don't apply for a home machine. 

#7. Grafting large panels onto classic cabinets.

I can see the point with this one.  Use good design and safety sense if you must.

#8. Adding a dedicated 4-way, but using the WRONG one.<snip>

100% agree.  Don't burn the CP space with a bad control.  Makes no sense.

#9. Tiny monitor, with a piece of black construction paper bezel.<snip>

Again, 100% agree.  If you don't have the scratch for a larger monitor, build a smaller cabinet.  A 4-player monstrosity is pointless when there is a 15" screen inside and the players have a hard time seeing what's happening.  Very nice looking and functional cabinets can be built around smaller monitors.

#10. Using various "hacks" when they just are not needed anymore. This is not 1998 anymore.  <snip>

I should probably abstain from commenting on this one, as it won't be seen as anything other than a veiled attempt to drum up business, but for the most part, this is true.  Keyboard hacks = bad and anyone will have a very difficult time convincing me otherwise.  However, a properly done gamepad hack can be ok.  The real issue is that several things need to be in place for it to be done well and that doesn't always (often?) happen.  One needs a very good gamepad to start with, as they are definitely not all created equal.  Knowing which is which is going to be found by trial and error, and by the time you know you have a good one, you might as well have saved yourself the time and frustration and just bought the dedicated part.  Then, the soldering skills come into play.  Some gamepads are simple to solder to and some are nightmares.  And if one has never (or rarely) soldered before attempting this, it's probably not going to be pretty, even on the simple ones.

But I can see the value of someone wanting to use a console in their arcade system for certain games.  Personally, I think there are plenty of games for the cab in the PC realm, but if you really need to play Virtua Tekken Apha Tag Fighter Deluxe Tournament Edition on your cabinet, there are few other options.

RandyT

[Numbski]

Well, I may wind up re-doing my CP top, and if I do, then I need some opinions:





Originally I was just going to do a custom overlay, but I made enough mistakes building the top that I may just do it over.  No angled outer players?

Dimensions are roughly 48"x15.5"  I designed the game for maximum elbow room.  The thing that drove me nuts about fighting game cabinets, is that player 2 always seemed to be at a disadvantage, as either you had to elbow your opponent, or hold your arm at some screwy cock-eyed angle.

On new year's eve, myself and three other guys completed TMNT with no issues, and I was in the player 1 slot for that game (far left, angled) and I didn't notice at all.  Is this really such a bane?

I have the rest of the pics here:

http://www.numbski.com/cab

and the panel work I'm doing now here:

http://www.numbski.com/hacks/cab

anyhoo...   

Also, players 3 & 4 (your outer players) need 4 buttons at the very most.

Ah, not so fast grasshoppa..

I do need those.  I'm intending to set up Mugen for 4-player, plus the X-Men vs. Street Fighter 4-player hack, etc.

I had actually considered getting an X-Arcade interface to use on consoles, but I see that being discouraged.  Ideally, I'd like to make a logic gate so that I can push a button and have all of the controls shift from PC, to game console, to Jamma board, etc.  I know there's multi-jamma, but I really need like Multi-Jamma++++ (with all those inputs).

It's a work in progress.

[HaRuMaN]

Ah, not so fast grasshoppa..

I do need those.  I'm intending to set up Mugen for 4-player, plus the X-Men vs. Street Fighter 4-player hack, etc.

I had actually considered getting an X-Arcade interface to use on consoles, but I see that being discouraged.  Ideally, I'd like to make a logic gate so that I can push a button and have all of the controls shift from PC, to game console, to Jamma board, etc.  I know there's multi-jamma, but I really need like Multi-Jamma++++ (with all those inputs).

It's a work in progress.

Ah ok, didn't know you were running Mugen.  Also, there is an X-men vs. Street Fighter 4 player hack??  How?

[Organic Jerk]

Ok, here is a picture of the infamous rear notch attached at the bottom of this post.

Well then I figure you're going to hate my cab plan, as it's originally based off a Marvel vs Capcom cab (which has a front notch) and I actually changed things from there.  I also have a pretty deep CP. 


That said, I will be making a 2nd mame cab in the style of a Galaga/Ms. Pac Man for older games sometime in the future..

plus the X-Men vs. Street Fighter 4-player hack

Whaaaa???

[btp2k2]

Yeah, what is wrong with gamepad hacks?

I am in the process of making a cabinet running my Sega Dreamcast...you got a better solution than a gamepad hack?

I don't have a problem with gamepad hacks, but to save yourself A LOT of time you could go with an x-arcade stick, gut it and install it in your CP. They sell an adapter to use the x-arcade with Dreamcast.

I'm using a gutted tankstick in my CP and am very happy with it.

X-gaming also sells do-it-yourself kits, so you don't have to gut the x-arcade. This could save some dollars, but is only really valuable if you don't want to use their bottons. I used their buttons for a while, but now I've swapped them all out.

Anyway, it's a better option than a gamepad hack.

Good luck!

Steve

The DIY card from X-Arcade is 60 bucks, plus another 20 for the adapter. So, how much money would I really be saving?

Also, someone mentioned if it would be really be a cheap cabinet considering the cost of console, monitor, etc....I already have the console and a 27 inch TV that looks stunning. I am also replacing the controls on my main cabinet with new sticks and buttons, so I am using the controls that are coming off the main cab for this project. So in reality, all I have to pay for is the material to build the sucker. As far as moving it? Well.....ever hear of casters? Roll that sucker up to my F150 with automatic lift gate....1 person job buddy. Sure I can play Street Fighter III on my Dreamcast, sitting on the couch with gamepad in hand...no problems....but let's be honest....who in this forum wouldn't want to play it while grasping authentic arcade controls in front of a full size arcade cabinet?

Thought so......