Come look at my new toy.

[knave]

I picked it up this weekend.   First thing I noticed was how cool the sound is!  It's just a crappy mono speaker but it takes me right back to the arcade. Now I have a "real" arcade game in my garage!  That Rocks!

Ok enough of my noob blathering here's some pics.


We couldn't wait to play...


Front View...not bad.


Coin mechs seem to all be there...looks like I need a coinbox though.


Some damage, Not too bad but someday I'll try to fix it.


Title screen.  Just because...

For the most part the cab is in ok shape, the CP is worn but works great, Happ competitions I believe. The 25" monitor is a little dim but playable, Is that an easy fix? There is a chunk missing from the left front corner and some asshat carved some mild graffiti on the right side...that whole side of the laminate will eventually need to be replaced. I might just paint it.

Overall not bad for $125...

...It's soo cool...

I'll have to play with it a bit more this week.

Thanks to everyone here on the board, I've learned alot already but have a long way to go.

[knave]

Now I have some questions...

Anyone know How I get to the monitor? Its a "Z" back Dynamo "cut-corner" cab.

The monitor is dim, am I correct in assuming a cap kit would correct this?

What is the best way to fix the damaged corner pictured above?

Where can I get a coin box, it looks like one was made to clip in there...Should I even bother?

How do I post picts as a thumbnail that enlarges if the image is clicked?

Thanks

[Chris G]

Where can I get a coin box, it looks like one was made to clip in there...Should I even bother?

Are you planning to hook up the coin slots?

[shardian]

You can put anything in there to catch the coins.

[Zeppo]

Hopefully I remember this right, to get at the front of the monitor you'll have to unlatch the control panel.
Open the coin mech door.
Reach up and on each side of the control panel should be a latch.
Undo both latches and lower the control panel.
Then you can pick up the glass and remove the bezel and get at the bolts holding the monitor in.

You should be able to remove the back panel to get at the back of the monitor.


Good luck.

[shardian]

You could probably get a better picture by messing with the adjustment pots on the monitor once you get into the back of the cabinet.

[Chris G]

You could probably get a better picture by messing with the adjustment pots on the monitor once you get into the back of the cabinet.

Agreed - the picture on my aging W-G monitor improved greatly by simply adjusting the brightness control.

[moloch]

I have that same cabinet design for a Street Fighter that I converted.

Zeppo is right about how to get at the front of the monitor and general removal. There is a wood panel at the back of mine that you can unscrew and get to the Monitor control board and see the workings from.

The only thing I do not like about the cabinet design is that since the control panel is metal it is a pain to customize a lot. The general shape of it and how it fits in the cabinet is a bit limiting.

I have bought some replacement control panels from ebay over the last few years by searching for Street Fighter control panels, that was the most popular game that used that cabinet design.

I hope that this helps.

[Crowquill]

Looks good. Glad it worked out.

What is that panel to the right of the coin door?

If you open up the back you can get to the monitor controls. Adjusting the brightness should help. A cap-kit would always help on a monitor of that age. Is that tinted plexi on the front? That would also affect the brightness of the monitor (obviously). I like the effect that tinted plexi has, but if your monitor's getting dim, replacing it with clear plexi is cheaper than replacing the monitor.

You'll definitely want to familiarize yourself with all the parts of the cabinet. In those I believe pretty much everything is on a slide-out drawer behind the CP.

Definitely try the adjustments before trying to remove the monitor. And always remember...

BE EXTREMELY CAREFUL WHEN WORKING WITH MONITORS! THEY CAN BE FATAL!

There are many pages and posts about monitor safety. Read up before you start poking at it. Once you can identify your monitor (usually there's a sticker), search the web for it's model number. You can probably find a downloadable manual for it. It'll make finding all the adjustments MUCH easier.

[knave]

Are you planning to hook up the coin slots?

Not really, I just want the whole thing to be complete.  Although I might want to set it to accept tokens for when I have lots of kids over...Encourages them to take turns etc...
I might call the guy I bought it from and see If he has one but I don't think it's worth another two hour round trip for it. even if he does...I also might try to find one online somewhere, short of that I'll use a metal bread pan or make one out of sheetmetal.

Looks good. Glad it worked out.

What is that panel to the right of the coin door?

That is some sort of card reader, the op that owned this machine before the guy I bought it from had some sort of card system.  I went to an arcade like this once and you buy "credits" on a card and then go play.  I felt around behind it and there is some sort of mechanism still there.

I'll check it out more when I pop off the CP and can look down inside it.

I guess you guys have confirmed my suspisions that I have to unscrew the back to get at the monitor.  I was hoping there was some type of door.

Well I'm dying to check it out...LOL but I'll be careful around the monitor.  I've read enough builds to know the dangers. Guess it's time to make sure the Makita is all charged up...

What should I use to fill in that missing front corner?

[Zeppo]

Bondo works good for that, I believe.

[Crowquill]

Is there anything missing to the coin door besides the coin mechs and the bucket? Coin mechs are cheap. It'd be easy to pick up token mechs for it. Just be sure you know what size of token you'd be using with it.

As far as fixing the corner goes, I'd just use a metal "corner protector". You can use Bondo or some other filler to clean it up as well. Trying to make it a matching shade of blue will probably be hard, though. Most anyplace that deals with arcade parts has "corner protectors". I still need to pick up a few to cover the damage on one corner of my MAME cab.

[knave]

I was able to steal a few minutes to poke around inside the cab.  (After my kids were done with it.)

Turns out no makita needed, there's a small panel in back (Smaller than I thought it would be) that attaches with four screws...err three in my case.

 I confirmed the monitor is a WG.  I just need to jot down the #'s so I can find the manual.

Is there anything missing to the coin door besides the coin mechs and the bucket? ...

As far as fixing the corner goes, I'd just use a metal "corner protector"...

Unless I don't know what I'm looking at, the coin mecs are there just not the 'bucket'.
Now I'm gonna have to try to put a quarter in there and see what happens.  Will the counter still count the quarter if the game is set to free play?

The card reader is there but not hooked up.

The only thing missing is a bulb for the left return button and the flap from its ...uh...tray?
It has new locks and two keys.

I'm going to have a look for the corner protecters...anyone have a pic so I know what I'm looking for?

[Crowquill]

here's a pic taken from happ. It's this one: http://www.happcontrols.com/accessories/49057000.htm

It's just a black metal bracket that wraps around the corner. The reason I was going to pick this up for my cab is that I know that this will look more finished that most anything I can do with it.

[knave]

Do you put it over existing t-molding?

Four of them might look nice.

Oh, and is it normal for the Marquee holder to be secured with a tamper-proof screws?

  Looks like I'll have to pick up a set of bits with the whole for the security pin. (I don't really want to drill it out...)

Thanks,

[RayB]

Oh, and is it normal for the Marquee holder to be secured with a tamper-proof screws?

Yes it's normal. Do you know why? Because they are TAMPER PROOF.
 

[SithMaster]

Wasnt there a site selling a set of the tools real cheap that was posted a while back?  Couldve sworn it was radioshack.

[mrserv0n]

Why are they fatal? What can happen to you?

Definitely try the adjustments before trying to remove the monitor. And always remember...

BE EXTREMELY CAREFUL WHEN WORKING WITH MONITORS! THEY CAN BE FATAL!

[knave]

I'm not sure what to make of that mrserv0n. Are you being serious and asking a question or are you simply warning me further on the dangers of touching the monitor in the wrong place?

Either way on the safe side, I'll say that the monitors carry a charge for a long time even if unpluged. Since there is no case around them if you touch the wrong part...ZAP! you can get a bad, fatal even, shock.

Since we are on the topic of monitors, I jotted down some numbers of of mine.

On a sticker with a bar code:

WG - 1287872

On a second sticker:

WG R2570 - 018S3OK (some of these were hard to read and might be wrong)

Ink stamped onto a metal part where the stickers were:

53369 - 01

On a big sticker on the tube itself:

G - A63ADG25X

Manufactured july 1991...

How do I find the model and manual to this puppy?

[mrserv0n]

No I was being serious, I just quoted the poster wrong, thanks for the info I did not know that. Good thing I run my cab off a plasma tv or I might not be typing this message right now LOL

[diverdown]

I picked it up this weekend.   Now I have a "real" arcade game in my garage!  That Rocks!

Ok enough of my noob blathering here's some pics.

 I think the first question you should be asking the forum is

"ok how do i get 'my substantial other' be it wife g/f mom) to allow me to put this in the living room.

[Crowquill]

I'm not sure what to make of that mrserv0n. Are you being serious and asking a question or are you simply warning me further on the dangers of touching the monitor in the wrong place?

I thought it was a third option...he was mocking me 
(This seemed unlikely/inappropriate considering the subject matter)

For clarification:

19,000+ volts can be dangerous to your health. Especially when discharged quickly across your heart.

[knave]

I was reading some in the "monitors" section it's the annode and the caps that you really don't want to touch...

...I basically play it safe and only touch the frame and the control board.

I played with the monitor settings last night a bit and got a mild improvement.

The colors just don't seem to be as rich as they should...Kinda like there is too much yellow.  Is there a color adjustment?  Do I need to de-gauss (or does it do that every time I turn it on?)

I can see all the colors just blues and reds don't seem bright...greens and yellows seem ok. 

I'm looking for the manual and I'll keep playing with it. Still it's so much fun just as it is...I figure I've already played about $20 worth on it by the fourth day. (If I count quarters...)

My besel is covered with glass. Nice...it doesn't seem to be tinted but It's possible.  I'll also try to pop it off to be sure.

[knave]

Oh, and is it normal for the Marquee holder to be secured with a tamper-proof screws?

  Looks like I'll have to pick up a set of bits with the whole for the security pin. (I don't really want to drill it out...)

Hey I'm totally stoaked, I walked it to Harbor Freight today and they had a small set of tamper-proof bits on sale for $2.99.  Can't beat that.  Uses it to pop off my Marquee and get the bulb out for replacement.   

[torez]

For clarification:

19,000+ volts can be dangerous to your health. Especially when discharged quickly across your heart.

It's the amps that can kill you. 

[pmc]

I have that same cabinet design for a Street Fighter that I converted.

[...]

I have bought some replacement control panels from ebay over the last few years by searching for Street Fighter control panels, that was the most popular game that used that cabinet design.

I have one of these too. What's the best way to replace the CP artwork? Mine needs new art, but I'm not sure what's the best way to create or print cut-corner CP overlays.

Mine has a lexan/plexi top on it, so it'd be great if I could use a generic sticky cut-corner overlay, but then add swappable artwork immediately under the lexan/plexi (so I can swap JAMMA boards, marquee, and CP artwork at will).

-pmc

[Tiger-Heli]

For clarification:

19,000+ volts can be dangerous to your health. Especially when discharged quickly across your heart.

It's the amps that can kill you. 

Also, an implosion hazard if not carefully handled . . .

[Crowquill]

For clarification:

19,000+ volts can be dangerous to your health. Especially when discharged quickly across your heart.

It's the amps that can kill you. 

Also, an implosion hazard if not carefully handled . . .

I think we may have made our point.

Torez: I figured the voltage numbers were scarier. The "discharged quickly" part was a generic reference to the amperage.

Good find on the tamper-proof bits. I'll have to check my local store for that one.

As far as I know there were no specific overlays made for cut-corner panels. You just wrap the graphic around and trim out the "corner panels".