Help me not cut my face off...

[Borkunit]

 ... or any other body part for that matter.  Sorry for the wordy post, but I don't want to get hurt

The last bit of wood working I have to do is cut a slot for t-molding in my CP.  I have a router and have purchased the "Complete (slot cutter) assembly with arbor and bearing" from MLCS:
http://www.mlcswoodworking.com/shopsite_sc/store/html/smarthtml/pages/bt_slot.html#438

Didn't come with any instructions and all the configurations I have tried for assembling it are leaving me confused.  I want to make sure I have it together right before I let her rip at 20k rpm.

The arbor and bearing assy came with:
* Arbor
* 2 washers
* 1 spacer (same diameter as the washers)
* Bearing
* Nut

I am thinking that I need to use all the parts (maybe less one washer) when assembling.  All the configurations have some issue that leaves me confused.

I am pretty sure I need something (washer or spacer) between the blade and the bearing and between the nut and bearing.  I also need a washer or spacer between the blade and the arbor (there's a notch on the arbor which causes the blade to wobble a little bit when it is put on without a washer underneath).

If I use all the washers and spacers, the nut doesn't seem to thread on to the arbor very far before it hits the washer.  If I omit the spacer, the nut bottoms out on the threads before tightening the assy up.  I believe that I need the bearing to be isolated by a spacer or washer on each side.

Is there anyone that has this assembly who can tell me the right way to put it together?

Also, the "claw" of the blade should be cutting TOWARDS the workpiece, correct?

Thanks a bunch!

[Fozzy The Bear]

The spacers are generally used to space multiple blades when you want to cut several slots at the same time at the same distance apart.

However, in the case of your arbour they also appear to be used as packing pieces so that you can clamp the assembly tightly. This is perfectly normal.

Yes, you do need a washer under the nut, up against the bearing.... this clamps on the inner portion of the bearing and allows the outer portion of the bearing to still rotate freely, as it rolls along the surface that you are cutting into, and thus sets the fixed depth of cut.

Hope that helps.

Make sure that you put the blade on the right way up.... This is important!! the cutting edges should rotate towards the surface you are cutting, and the router should also be moved forwards in that direction. NEVER in the oposite direction, otherwise the blade can snag and throw the cut, possibly causing injury to the workpiece and yourself.

Cut at a fairly low speed and let the blade do the work... don't force the router forwards. If it's set up correctly, you will hardly feel the force of a 1/16" cut.

Best Regards,
Julian (Fozzy The Bear)

[Borkunit]

Thanks, Julian.  If I make it through this with all my digits still attached, I'll hoist a pint in your honor!

One other question - How should I feed the blade into the workpiece?  Should I approach from a corner, moving in the same direction as the cut I am making?  Or can I feed the blade into the edge of the piece moving perpendicular to the direction of the cut?  Does it matter at all?

Thanks again!

[Fozzy The Bear]

One other question - How should I feed the blade into the workpiece?  Should I approach from a corner, moving in the same direction as the cut I am making?  Or can I feed the blade into the edge of the piece moving perpendicular to the direction of the cut?  Does it matter at all?

Not really critical... but it's always better to start from a corner if you can. If you aproach moving perpendicular to the direction of the cut, try to be moving slightly in the direction of the cut at the same time. But whichever you do, make sure the workpiece is properly clamped down.

The only other thing I didn't mention in the last post is please make sure you wear propper protection, safety glasses (you can't replace your eyes), ideally leather work gloves as well and if it's MDF make very very sure that you wear a dust mask.

Best Regards,
Julian (Fozzy The Bear)

[xmenxmen]

Could not resist.



Although I think this one looks better, but less protection!!!



And the price is right too.

http://www.loveleaf.net/sword/armor.html

[ScottS]

The only other thing I didn't mention in the last post is please make sure you wear propper protection, safety glasses (you can't replace your eyes), ideally leather work gloves as well and if it's MDF make very very sure that you wear a dust mask.

Do wear safety glasses and a dust mask.

Unlike Julian, I would suggest you do not wear gloves, jewelry, or even a long-sleeved shirt when operating any tool that has a spinning blade or bit. You absolutely, positively do not want to have any possibility that a glove or other article of clothing will get wrapped around a spinning shaft and pull your hand or another body part into the blade. These injuries happen very quickly, especially with a router bit spinning at 20,000+ RPM and the injuries are usually extremely severe!

[Borkunit]

Thank you, sirs.  I will be wearing a dust mask underneath my Knight's helmet, sans gloves and sleeved shirt when I attempt the job this weekend.

[xmenxmen]

hehe...

Now on the serious side.  I tend to wear gloves when working on routers, the tight ones, not those loose 2.99 home depot one.  And the most important thing I always do each time I use one is double and triple check to make sure everything is tight.

[kkingsto]

Whatever you do, make sure the router is working BELOW elbow level!!

While cutting the slots for my cab, I had the sides a little too high and the router was HURLING the wood and that is enough to SING if you have a short-sleeved shirt on (the wood was hitting me in the armpit!).