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Author Topic: 45 degree cut?  (Read 8466 times)

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Solocade2008

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45 degree cut?
« on: January 16, 2007, 04:58:16 pm »
I'm about to make the 45 degree cut on the slanted panel(the one that mates with the very top and back panels). How are people cutting that?

Jigsaw with 45 degree bevel? (don't think i can get a good straight cut?)

Router with chamfer bit? My cabinet is 3/4" MDF and my router has a 1/4" collet. Is there a bit that would work for this?

thanks for any tips!

ScottS

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Re: 45 degree cut?
« Reply #1 on: January 16, 2007, 05:02:20 pm »
I'd use a circular saw or, if you have one, a tablesaw.

Kaytrim

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Re: 45 degree cut?
« Reply #2 on: January 16, 2007, 05:07:26 pm »
If you are cutting the battons that you attach the panels to, get a miter saw.  If you are cutting the panel then look into buying a circular saw.  this will give you a nice strait cut.  Using a bevel on a jigsaw will give you a cut at 45 degrees from the side of the panel.  A normal cut would be a square cut.  Cutting a strait line with a jigsaw or a router is near impossible without a jig.

Dmod

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Re: 45 degree cut?
« Reply #3 on: January 16, 2007, 05:39:11 pm »
I just cut mine with a circular saw at a 45 degree bevel.

One thing I didn't realize is that when you cut the 45 degree angles, the surface area will be larger than the area on the ege of the flat pieces you are going to mate it up to.

When I attached top and angled panels with a 1/2 inch recess relative to the sides, I ended up with a little bit of a lip on the top of the cabinet where the angled piece extends above the cabinet top.

So far I haven't bothered sanding it cos you can't really see it, but there's also some light leak through that joint which I might have to close up with some caulk before painting.



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ScottS

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Re: 45 degree cut?
« Reply #4 on: January 16, 2007, 07:09:46 pm »
One thing I didn't realize is that when you cut the 45 degree angles, the surface area will be larger than the area on the ege of the flat pieces you are going to mate it up to.

Right. A 45-degree bevel is only good if you're making a 90-degree joint. If your pieces meet at a different angle, you need to measure that angle, then divide by two in order to figure out what to set the bevel at. NOTE: do not trust the markings on your saw! Those markings are frequently inaccurate. I use a Starrett protractor to do the measurements and adjust the saw blade, but anything that's reasonably accurate should work...