Which bits do I need?

[acevedor2]

Hi all.  First off let me say that I am a complete newbie when it comes to woodworking.  I know how to use (and own) a table saw and chop saw, as well as a jig saw and sander.  So I have most of the basics.  That said, I have never, however, used a router.  Now that I am getting ready to build my first MAME cab, I need to get some router skills.  At a minimum I will need to do the following things:
1.  Round over the edges of my CP (Entire cab is 3/4" MDF)
2.  Recess the joysticks and trackball mounting plate.  I will not have any bolts showing on the CP when finished.
3.  Route the groove for the T-Molding
4.  Trim the black laminate I am putting on the sides of the cab.
So this brings me to my first question:
I have read all of the info and threads on making  a jig and routing the recess and I understand it fairly well.  The problem is, I don't know which bit to get.  I know the thread says to use a flush cut laminate bit, but what size?  I have a 1/4" collet so that much I got, but what size of bit do I need.  I went to he sore and there are tons of 1/4" collet flush cutting bits available. 

Secondly,  once I have made th jig, it appears I need a bit with the bearing on top to ride against the jig as I route the control panel.  Which bit do I need for this, or is it the same bit as was used in making the jig and I do I just have to swap the bearing from the bottom to the top.  If that is even possible.

Lastly, When I round over the edges of the 3/4" MDF, which bit do I use?  I think I actually have the right bit.  It is a 3/8" radius round over bit.  It is my understanding that for a round over bit, you need one that is half the width of the wood you are working with, i.e. I am using 3/4" so I would need a 3/8" radius bit.  Is that correct?

Thanks in advance for all of the help and I promise I did use the search feature , I just couldn't find the answers I was looking for.
Cheers     

[miles2912]

I had never touched a router until I made my cab.  With your background you will do just fine.  Routing is fairly simple if you think it out and go slow.  Think safety.  Serious.

Not sure whey you would need a round over bit if you are going to use t-molding.  The t-molding will take care of the edges.  Any bit designed to cut laminate will do.  Make sure the bearing is using the wood as your guide.. that should put it towards the tip of the bit, away from the router.  Walk the router slowly around the edges - counter clockwise.  Simple.

When you say routing your control panel I am assuming you mean the recesses for your joysticks/tracball.  What I did was first measure how far it is from the end of your router to the point where it cuts with the trimming bit.  Now use that as a guide to attach something to your cp and then run the router against that straight edge and make your cut.  Once you have the 4 sides done just free hand out the middle.  Hope that helps.


D-

[acevedor2]

Thanks D.  I am rounding over the front sides of my CP.  The left and right where there won't be any T-Molding.  I could just use a hand sander and wing it, but the router will make it look much better.  Is the 3/8 round over bit that I have the one to use?

As far as the recess I am a little confused.  The jig sits on top of the CP over the location where you want to recess.  Then you put the head of the router into the hole you made for the joystick and start moving back and forth so that the bearing rides along the jig (which as I said is sitting on top of the work piece).  In this case, the bearing is closest to the base plate on the bit, and not at the end of the bit as on other types of bits.  That said, I have not seen one of these with the bearing on top.  I am assuming they make them.  What I am looking for is the name of the bit to ask for when I go into the store that has the bearing on top so it will ride along the jig.

Yes, I tried just going into Home Depot, and they were useless as ever.  I don't think the tool guy could spell router...

Thanks!

[Red 5]

Its called a Pattern bit. I have never seen a Home Depot with one.

Sears might have it.

Try MLCS

or

Rockler

Jon

[acevedor2]

AWESOME!  Thanks!  That is what i was looking for!  Does it matter what the diameter of the bit is?  I know the collet will be 1/4 but what about the cut diameter of the bit?

[Red 5]

AWESOME!  Thanks!  That is what i was looking for!  Does it matter what the diameter of the bit is?  I know the collet will be 1/4 but what about the cut diameter of the bit?

I like the 1/2" dia one. And yes the collet will be 1/4" so you will not be able to go hog wild.

Jon

[acevedor2]

Thanks Red!  I appreciate it.  I will check them out tomorrow and see what I can find.  Have a great new years!

[miles2912]

Check out Timoe's post.  It is stickied at the top of the forum.  Great write up on how to cut out your holes.  I bought my pattern bit at a home depot.  Some carry them dome don't   YMMV.

As far as the round over bit is concerned.. easy solution.  Just try it out on a piece of scrap MDF before working on the actual cab.  Make sure you are out doors and wearing a mask before you start.  MDF gets everywhere.

D-

[acevedor2]

Thanks D.  As soon as the weather is warm enough I plan on trying it

[northerngames]

1.  Round over the edges of my CP (Entire cab is 3/4" MDF) 3/8ths go around board then flip it over and do the same

3.  Route the groove for the T-Molding 1/4" collet 1/16 slot cutter around 1/2" depth is good also a plunge router is better then a regular router becuase the but height can be adjusted up or down to center the hole on the edge's correctly

4.  Trim the black laminate I am putting on the sides of the cab. use a 1/4" collet flush router bit this could be toachy lengh wise on a regular miter and I would sugest a 1/2"-5/8" at largest but if you have a plung router it can be adjusted any where you need it as long as the flat roller guide can toach the wood otehrwise if not and it is to big it will check the board all up

[ScottS]

3.  Route the groove for the T-Molding 1/4" collet 1/16 slot cutter around 1/2" depth is good also a plunge router is better then a regular router becuase the but height can be adjusted up or down to center the hole on the edge's correctly

A fixed-based router allows precision depth adjustments and is far less tip-prone than a plunge router. For edge work, a fixed-based router is almost always what you want...

4.  Trim the black laminate I am putting on the sides of the cab. use a 1/4" collet flush router bit this could be toachy lengh wise on a regular miter and I would sugest a 1/2"-5/8" at largest but if you have a plung router it can be adjusted any where you need it as long as the flat roller guide can toach the wood otehrwise if not and it is to big it will check the board all up