Hammerite paint?

[teacup]

I planning on painting my cab, but can't decided what sort of paint to use. I had a thought of using Hammerite metal paint, which give a glossy, bumpy (hammered) texture, which I though would look pretty good on a cab. Its a metal paint tho, so has anyone tried it on mdf?

Any other ideas for a paint to use?

[rampy]

I planning on painting my cab, but can't decided what sort of paint to use. I had a thought of using Hammerite metal paint, which give a glossy, bumpy (hammered) texture, which I though would look pretty good on a cab. Its a metal paint tho, so has anyone tried it on mdf?

Any other ideas for a paint to use?

I believe sirpoonga used something similiar....

http://free.hostdepartment.com/S/SirPoonga/yabcab.html


rampy

[CM]

I used this on my metal coin-door and when you spray it it looks smooth and over a minute or two it kinda bubbles up causing the textured look.  I think I sprayed it on some spare MDF when I did it .. and it didn't quite bubble up as much ... resulted in a flatter look on wood than the metal.

[SirPoonga]

I believe sirpoonga used something similiar....

http://free.hostdepartment.com/S/SirPoonga/yabcab.html

Nice to have people answer for you:)
To give more info.  I use Rustoleum Hammered Metal paint.
http://www.rustoleum.com/product.asp?frm_product_id=21&SBL=1

Differences between the quart and spray.  The quart is thicker plaint, the textures is "bigger" because of it.  

[Punchcard]

ooooohhhh...... I really like that idea.........

I painted my cabinet flat black after cutting but prior to assembly. After assembly there are some scrapes and what not in the paint and was thinking about another coat.

My cab is built out of sanded ply but after painting the surface came out a bit rougher than I might have liked. It almost seemed rougher after priming it, I don't know if the primer being absorbed changed the surface at all......

I though about more coats to smooth it out, but running the other way with the ball might be a better solution.

Hmm. I will have to ponder this.

[Wienerdog]

You have to sand between coats.  Sand the primer smooth, but try not to sand through the primer.  If you get bare wood, definitely re-prime.

[RubbrDug]

Yeah, follow Wienerdog here.
Paint is wet and has to be, otherwise it wouldn't be soaked up by the wood. After soaking up, the wood is wet, wich causes small plys to errect out of the surface.
Sanding is as important as painting! Use something higher than 180 on completely dry paint and sand carefully by hand using a sanding block. Doesn't take much effort. After sanding use a old but dry and clean T-Shirt to remove the dust.

(Didn't want to get off-topic here, but ... couldn't resist to)

[Punchcard]

Sanding is as important as painting! Use something higher than 180 on completely dry paint and sand carefully by hand using a sanding block. Doesn't take much effort. After sanding use a old but dry and clean T-Shirt to remove the dust.

(Didn't want to get off-topic here, but ... couldn't resist to)

Sorry to continue to derail the thread but thanks for the advice! Don't have to worry about my paint being dry, for the first sanding at least. It has had a good two months to dry by now (I'm a grad student building cab in Dad's barn a few hours away. Makes for slow progress.)

[aj6500]

I used the rustoleoum brand (2 coats) on my juke, with a fine nap roller over primed (2 coats) mdf.  Looks pretty good, has a nice even texture to it.  I think the lighter colors will show the texture better than black,  but no complaints.  USE OUTSIDE OR REALLY WELL VENTILATED indoors.  The stuff REEKS once it starts to set, and still smells for a couple days.  It also stays slightly tacky for a couple days, but then sets up with a pretty durable looking finish.

[Brax]

This reminds me of a radio ad I heard yesterday.

He's talking about painting:

"Make sure you paint in a well ventilated area..."
*in a drunk sounding voice*
"Oooooo, hello Mr. Unicorn. Are you here to help me paint? Ok, but you have to wear your goggles!"


hehe