Hi Tony, and welcome!
It sounds like you are already off to a good start. Here's my responses to your questions:
1.
http://www.mouser.com//index.cfm?handler=fra_pdfset&pdffile=659 About half way down the page are just a few illuminated pushbutton switches. By main power, I assume you are referring to 125VAC switches and not a DC momentary connected to the motherboard. The switches I linked are just a few that Mouser carries, but if you are looking for something different then just browse around Mouser's online catalog for something more suitable.
2. Using a car amp has been discussed several times on this message board, and there are many different opinions about the correct way to accomplish it. I have seen people disagree with using a PC power supply to power a car amp, but I have done so on more than one occasion with positive results. First, and pretty much everyone agrees with this one, is that you should use a separate or dedicated power supply for the amp because of the current draw so it doesn't affect the PC components. If you use a dedicated ATX PC power supply, then you will have to add a load to the +5V source to regulate the +12V source. This can be done with a resistor or lamp. I chose to use a lamp on mine. The second thing you will have to do is jumper the green wire (Power Supply On lead, pin 14) to one of the ground wires (pin 13 or 15) so the power supply will turn on in the absence of a motherboard. I have an ATX power supply motherboard plug pinout at
www.oscarcontrols.com/ATXpower.shtml, if it will help. I am currently running a 200W car amp with (4) 6 1/2" drivers and (2) surface mount tweeters in my half-finished project (
www.oscarcontrols.com/unnamed), and it works just fine. For typical gaming I doubt you will exceed 10W or so, but if you will also be using your cabinet for jukebox/mp3 duties, then you will probably use more.
3. A SW yoke is a bit tricky to attach to a wood control panel, but it can be done and there is more than one way to do it. The way I'm doing it is by making a cutout that is slightly oversized and then attaching aluminum angles along the vertical edges of the cutout for the yoke to connect to. Drill holes for the yoke mounting screws in one leg of the angle, and then drill holes in the other leg for the wood screws. I'm using 3 wood screws on each side for the control panel mounts. The below cross section graphic hopefully explains this better than I can do with words... Finally, you will probably want to make an angled section on your control panel so the yoke sits in the correct position. If it were bolted straight down to a horizontal or slightly angled control panel, then that would place the yoke at an awkward position to control it.
Good luck on your project!
