Woodworking NEWB Need Help

[FrizzleFried]

It is with some trepidation that I admit that I,  a 35 year old man,  have never used a router.   The extent of my wood working experience is using a jigsaw, drill, and circular saw to cut simple cuts in 2x4's etc.   Being that I am going to build a new control panel,  I felt it was was time to finally purchase my first router.

Being that this is my first router,  and that I am not sure exactly HOW MUCH I would use the device aside from flush-mounting my trackball...I did what most folks would do.  I went the cheapest route.  My intention was to get a plunge router,  but after scoping out the selection at the local Home Depot,  it was obvious that a fixed base router was in my future.   The only fixed base router they had was a Ryobi (see photo below),  which at $60,  was a much better priced item than the $99 Ryobi plunge router (or the other two routers that cost up to $200).   I ALMOST went with the Ryobi plunge router until I realized that the $99 was for the router ONLY whereas the fixed base router at $60 included some template guides, some bits,  etc.    Call me a cheap bastard,  but I went with the $60.00 model...again,  I am not sure how much I will use this tool.

What are your thoughts on this tool?  Bad decision?  OK?

Here is a photo:



It came with these bits:



In addition to these bits,  would you recommend any other?   Am I correct to assume the top right bit is the one I would use to bore out the area to flushmount a trackball?

Would you recommend a create a template for that trackball job?  How hard is it to free hand within the "lines"?

Any tips/suggestions/warnings/help would be greatly appreciated.

I plan on using a 1.125" wood boring bit for the buttons and a 1.75" hole saw bit for the joystick holes.   I am not sure if I am going to (a) add T-Molding or (b) use my router to round the edges of the CP.  Any thoughts to this?

Any / ALL help is greatly appreciated!

THANKS!

[Donkey_Kong]

I think I have the Ryobi 'plunge' router you speak of and I lovz it. Yours should do you fine!! Have fun...

One of those straight bits in your pic will work for your flush mount. Freehanding isn't too bad but it won't be ultra perfect. Use good light and wear safety goggles...The dust will be a flyin'!! I have my kid stand by with a light in one hand and a shop vac in the other when I router flush cuts.

Here is an example of my first under side freehanded router job for an Ultra Stik 360 in 3/4" Pine wood. Via the Ryobi router...

[shardian]

The top right one in your pic is not a "flush trim" bit. A flush trim will have a bearing at the top so you can trace a template to get an identical cut. That being said, $60 bucks for a new router, some templates, AND a beginner set of bits is a good deal. I'm sure you looked and know that router bits are anything but cheap.

[FrizzleFried]

Yer speakin japanese to me.

)

Anyone have a link to a good site that demonstrates what each bit does...etc?

[flyguy1821]

This is a good site to see what type of cut a bit will give you.  Just click on the router bit link at the top and your good to go. 

p.s.  the top right bit is not intended to bore with, i.e. you cant just drop the bit onto the surface of wood.  The bit must come in contact with a side first.  The bottom right looks like you can drop onto a surface. 

http://mlcswoodworking.com/

[flyguy1821]

oh and this is where I buy my slot cutters.  Thought I would add that since yours looks pretty thick, 1/4 inch?

http://mlcswoodworking.com/shopsite_sc/store/html/smarthtml/pages/bt_slot.html

[icesurf3r]

On a slight thread hi-jack. Does anyone know where to get a slot cutter for T-moulding (in the UK). I believe it's 1/16" i'm looking for.

I've checked out my local DIY (hardware) stores and a few online places, without any luck.  I'll be purchasing the t-moulding from t-moulding.com so if there any other width of slot cutter that can be used, please feel free to enlighten me.

SORRY for Hi-jack

[FrizzleFried]

Well...I decided "to hell with it" and just jumped in with both feet.   Over a couple hours last night I pretty much completed the cutting part of my control panel.

I drilled all the button holes (1.125") and the joystick hole (1.75").   I traced around my HAPP trackball mounting plate and took about 1/16" off...freehand...it came out OK...not perfect....but OK...but being that it will be covered it will work out nicely.

I then decided to take out about 1/2 the material for my joysticks...did so with no problem.

By this time it was getting late...so I stopped using the power tools and decided to work on my plexiglass top.   Using a plexiglass cutting tool (a nasty razor with a "burr" in it),  I snapped off the different sides of the plexi....then I used some sandpaper to round off the plexiglass edges.

I am down to painting it (well,  I have to bore out the 2nd joystick first,  then cut the holes in the plexi....

Overall I think it's going to come out pretty damn spanky.

I'll post pix once I am done.

...and thanks!

[FrizzleFried]

I decided from the get go that since I didn't have the bit required to route a trench for T-Molding...nor did I have any T-Molding on hand...that I was going to just round the edges with my router...being that this was the very first time I had ever used a router (No,  I never had "woodshop" in school...I was always taking Metal Shop & Auto Shop instead)...I think I did a pretty decent job.  To the discerning eye,  there ARE errors...but nothing earth shattering...and as I said,  I have an overlay (of sorts) that I am going to put between the wood and the plexiglass.

In this first photo,  you will see my arcade cabinet.  I have marked in red where I plan to make a cut (approximately...I eyeballed the photo,  I will,  of course,  measure the real thing before i cut).



Next is the backside of the CP.  I still have to route the other joystick...it was getting too late last night for the router (around midnight).   Also note that the route jobs aren't 100% accurate either,  but being that I added about 1/4" on each side,  there is plento of room in there to line up the joystick correctly before mounting.



Here is the front side of the CP.  Again,  the flush-mount trackball plate route isn't 100% accurate,  but it will be covered with an overlay of sorts and then some plexi so it's perfectly fine.



Here are a couple of shots of the plexiglass, I can't remember the exact thickness...it's thin stuff though...thin enough that I use it for my "rounded" marquee...trimmed to the correct dimensions & waiting to be drilled...





Finally...here is the base of the "The Real Ghostbusters" control panel that I was given... it needs a little work (nothing a little bondo won't fix).



Any comments?  Suggestion?

What is the best way to drill that plexi?   I am thinking hole-saw mounted to the CP,  facing down between a sheet of wood...my concern is that I would then be drilling toward the CP face and it wouldn't be flipable if there are burrs, etc....but I think that is the most accurate way to get the button holes right?

[Leif]

Put the plexi between a scrap sheet of wood (MDF) and your control panel.  Run a hole saw backwards through your panel and into the control panel.  Let the heat from friction cut through it.  Works everytime.

Of course run this on a test sheet first to get the hang of it.

[FrizzleFried]

Leif,

I read somewhere to run the bit backwards?   I was thinking of running it forward,  but at a low RPM and apply damn near NO pressure....good idea?

[Leif]

Leif,

I read somewhere to run the bit backwards?   I was thinking of running it forward,  but at a low RPM and apply damn near NO pressure....good idea?

I've chipped it every 3 or 4 holes.  I haven't ever chipped it running it backwards.