Suggestions on a router to use?

[eastbayarb]

Before I get what may be an inevitable "do a search", I did a search on this and while I did see some suggestions, nothing very recent.

I need a good router.  Anyone have any suggestions on a good router? My price range is around $100-$200 but less is always good

Also I would like to know what bits I need for things like t-molding, cutting rounded edges on a CP, CP button holes, cutting holes in lexan, etc.

Thanx!

[Xam]

Any of the name brand routers ( DeWalt, Makita, Porter Cable, etc.) should do more than fine for almost any routing job. You should be able to get a damn fine router in that price range. If you are just using it to build a cab here or there, something along the lines of a Black & Decker or Skil would suffice.

I picked up a decnt router at Harbor Freight for $40 (reg price was $80)


As mentioned, If you plan on using it a bunch, I would buy one of the better routers first mentioned in my post.

Xam

[whynotpizza]

Great question, and recently I went thru all of this, so let me try to help.

For the router itself, since I didn't have much experience using these tools, and I didn't want to sink a bunch of cash into the unit itself, I borrowed the neighbors instead and purchased the bits myself.

SKIL Plunge Router 1835 1 3/4 HP is what I used. I worked well, but is definitely something you need to be careful with as these tools are powerful and can get away from you easily especially on startup.

And for the bits, these are what I used.

SKIL 1/8" Roundover Carbide Router Bit
  (Used for cutting my Lexan edges of the CP surface)

SKIL 1/2" V-Groove Carbide Router Bit
  (Used for making V-Groove holes to counter-sink my 4 corner screws used to hold Lexan to CP wood surface)

Both SKIL bits can be purchased @ Lowes, or online to save a few bucks.

As for the T-Molding bit used, I used the following bit purchased from www.mlcswoodworking.com

Slot Cutter Complete Assmbly #5341, 1/16" - 1/4" shank

It was $16 and shipping was free.

As for curring the Lexan surface (and the CP wood for that matter) holes for Joysticks and Buttons, I used a 1 1/8" Freud Precision-Shear Forstner bit, also purchased @ Lowes.

All in all, the Lexan (purchased @ Lowes also) cuts took me about 6 hours as I was very meticulous to make sure I did not crack the piece. Turned out pretty good in the end.

Here are a few pictures of my project still work-in-process.

Good luck,

 

   David

[Timoe]

The PorterCable 690 router is like the 3" happ trackball of routers. I believe it is around $200


But you can get a $60 Ryobi router that will build you a few great cabinets just fine

[torez]

... and I came here thinking that we are talking about a network router
LOL

[Gambit]

I don't care much for plunge routers, as they add unnecessary weight and bulkiness.

If its your first router I suggest a fixed base router.

You can still raise and lower the thing, just not while in motion. Plus you wont have that akward and bulky thing to move around.

[Tahnok]

As for curring the Lexan surface (and the CP wood for that matter) holes for Joysticks and Buttons, I used a 1 1/8" Freud Precision-Shear Forstner bit, also purchased @ Lowes.

All in all, the Lexan (purchased @ Lowes also) cuts took me about 6 hours as I was very meticulous to make sure I did not crack the piece. Turned out pretty good in the end.

That's exactly why I have to recamend against using a forstner. While they give good, clean, cuts, they're very slow to work with. And since you don't need to drill flat bottom holes in your lexan, there's really no need for them.

As far as a router, I recamend getting a plunge router from the start. Fixed base is probably a little easier to learn on, but you'll end up wanting to buy a plunge router real quick. Or, a good compromise would be to get one with a detachable plunge base.

One of the first things you'll want a plunge base for is cutting the CP lexan. Nothing makes quicker and cleaner work of plexi than a plunge router and pattern cutting bit. I use the following bit for most of my plexi work:

http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=5411

It's not technically a plunge bit (try to find a plunge if you can), but it tends to work as a plunge in plexi as it just melts it's way through.

As far as tools, the brands Xam mentioned are very good, but most of my shop is equipped with Craftsmen. Many people scoff at the brand, but I've never had a problem. They tend to be a good balance between quality and price. They aren't overly precise, but they are built well.

[eastbayarb]

whynotpizza,

thanx for the suggestion on the SKIL Plunge Router 1835 1 3/4 HP. I may get one on ebay. Or do they have it at www.mlcswoodworking.com ? Would love to get the router itself and all the bits you mentioned together.

will this router be good for cutting a hole for my trackball?

thanx

[whynotpizza]

Eastbayarb -

For cutting the hole in the Lexan for the Trackball, Yes the router is what I used with 1/8" roundover bit. As for the wood, I used a hand jigsaw from Dewalt (model DW321) which I purchased at Home Depot - Very nice tool for hand cuts and works very well in 3/4" MDF.

The SKIL plunge router was borrowed, so not sure where to get that exact model. Any plunge router would do the trick I suppose. Make sure it has the ability to 'lock' the depth so you can set the depth, turn ON, and then make your cut. Make it easier since you don't have to keep constand pressure on the router to hold it against the wood.

Let me know if you have any other questions.

As for my little project... I am wiring my CP tonight and doing some finishing touches on the cabinet. I can't wait to turn this thing on in final mode and start working with configurations/software!

   David


 

[eastbayarb]

I have a Dremel 400 rotary tool and I have heard there is a plunge router attatchment. Maybe that would be a good alternative?

Oh I decided not to put lexan or plexi on my control panel. I am gonna just get a vinyl overlay for it (wherever I can get one).