Fixing clearcoat damage

[USSEnterprise]

Is there anyway to repair bubbling of the clearcoat on a car without sanding all the paint off and starting anew. This is related to yet another car I'm looking at.

[DrewKaree]

Gorilla Glue.  Clamp those bubbles right back down.

[NightGod]

Is there anyway to repair bubbling of the clearcoat on a car without sanding all the paint off and starting anew. This is related to yet another car I'm looking at.

No.

[shardian]

Here is a method to restore.

http://www.volvospeed.com/Mods/color_sanding.htm

[Stingray]

Color sanding won't work if the damage is all the way through the clear or if the clear has started to peel. Just FYI.

-S

[Brax]

Sand down the bubbles using 400 grit paper. Blend the edges of the clear into the paint but not through it. (this is the trick - use very, very light pressure on your paper) Respray your clear over the sanded portions. Sand with 1000 grit paper, repeat this for two or 3 coats. Finish up with polishing compound. Voila.

I restore vintage bicycles as a hobby and do this kind of repair all the time. You can sand and blend paint and clearcoat just like any other material. It's not all that hard, it just takes a little nerve to do it for the first time.

[Brax]

Color sanding won't work if the damage is all the way through the clear or if the clear has started to peel. Just FYI.

-S

Colour sanding uses the exact same methods you would use to repair your clearcoat. You just have a few added steps of respraying your clear afterwards. It's not exactly a big leap to go from colour sanding to clearcoat repair.

[Stingray]

Color sanding won't work if the damage is all the way through the clear or if the clear has started to peel. Just FYI.

-S

Colour sanding uses the exact same methods you would use to repair your clearcoat. You just have a few added steps of respraying your clear afterwards. It's not exactly a big leap to go from colour sanding to clearcoat repair.

Yes I'm aware of that. I've been doing auto body work for 20 years. Unless I completely misread, the OP isn't looking to do any paint work. An attempt at color sanding an area where the clear is damaged all the way through would only make the problem worse. In any case if a person doesn't own the needed paint spraying equipment (and let's face it, not a lot of people do), it's a bit more than a few added steps.

-S

[ChadTower]

I've been doing auto body work for 20 years.

And boy is he tired.  What a project.

[Brax]

Yes I'm aware of that. I've been doing auto body work for 20 years. Unless I completely misread, the OP isn't looking to do any paint work. An attempt at color sanding an area where the clear is damaged all the way through would only make the problem worse. In any case if a person doesn't own the needed paint spraying equipment (and let's face it, not a lot of people do), it's a bit more than a few added steps.

-S

It can be done with rattle cans and it won't look any different. (premptive strike: Yes, you're right. It won't be as durable. But if it's like any clearcoat bubbles I've ever seen, it'll be on a horizontal surface. Unless you regularily have  swimsuit models cavorting on your car, it'll be fine. Btw, if you do have said models squirming on your car, call me! In my opinion, it would be fine regardless where the repair is. I've done bike frames and they don't scratch any worse than a factory finish.))

As I said, the method is the same as colour sanding. It's not colour sanding per se. As long as you're careful not to go through the colour as you're blending the edges of the clear into the paint all will be fine.

There are methods the professionals use and then there are hobbyist methods that achieve the same goal. He asked if it could be done. I assure you with 100% certainty that it CAN be done and you'd never know it was repaired.

[Stingray]

It can be done with rattle cans and it won't look any different.

That might be okay for a bicycle, but not for a car. Not my car anyway.

-S

[shardian]

The spoiler on my car is clear coated, and the clearcoat is poppin off all over the place. the exposed maroon paint looks dull, but is in tact. So, you are saying I can scrap the bubbling clear coat lightly, then feather the clearcoat down to make a smooth transisiton from existing CC to paint. Then extremely lightly sand everthing to achieve a color blend. Then recoat everything with CC and polish like a mad man. Is this correct? I could care less if it doesn't work. It is worth a shot. If it fails then I can just sand and repaint the whole thing.

You all and your conflicting info. 

[ChadTower]

[DrewKaree]

The spoiler on my car....

If it's something you bolted on because it's teh kewl, go ahead and give bicycleboy's advice a shot.  A bolt-on spoiler would have already ruined any car, and if that's the case, even that bicycle advice would be an improvement.

Say, are they still painting vintage bikes with catalyzed polyurethane?  That'd be great if they were, so we'd know that rattle-can enamel would definitely work, instead of guesstimating.....what kinda primer do you use to make those two dissimilar products work well together?

USS, you've moved on to another car by now, right?  Or is all this jibber-jabber helping you decide?

[boykster]

Gorilla Glue.  Clamp those bubbles right back down.

I'm still thinkin this is the best route to go...

[shardian]

If it's something you bolted on because it's teh kewl, go ahead and give bicycleboy's advice a shot. [/quote]

No, I am proud to say I have never bolted on one of those tin can spoilers on ANY of my cars...although I was sorely tempted in HS. I have also never put a "weed-eater" muffler on any cars either. I don't know why some kids think that a car that sounds like an eternal fart is a good thing.

It is the stock spoiler just like the one in the pictures of the link I provided.

[ChadTower]

The best is when a weed eater muffler backfires because the car barely runs.  It's like a loaf of bread breaking the sound barrier.

[Brax]

The spoiler on my car is clear coated, and the clearcoat is poppin off all over the place. the exposed maroon paint looks dull, but is in tact. So, you are saying I can scrap the bubbling clear coat lightly, then feather the clearcoat down to make a smooth transisiton from existing CC to paint. Then extremely lightly sand everthing to achieve a color blend. Then recoat everything with CC and polish like a mad man. Is this correct? I could care less if it doesn't work. It is worth a shot. If it fails then I can just sand and repaint the whole thing.

It won't even take that much polishing. I'd use 2 or 3 layers of clear minimum, sanding with 1000 grit between each layer and then finishing up with the polishing compound. I did the same repair on the roof of my Daytona and it worked fine. Once you spray your clear, you'll get a rough dust like finish between the new clear and the existing clear. The polishing compound will remove that when you apply it. You're essentially blending the new clear into the existing clear.

To the naysayers: Gee, what a miracle if it works because nobody on the planet has ever made a clearcoat repair before. 

[ChadTower]

Just put duct tape on it.

[Brax]

Say, are they still painting vintage bikes with catalyzed polyurethane?  That'd be great if they were, so we'd know that rattle-can enamel would definitely work, instead of guesstimating.....what kinda primer do you use to make those two dissimilar products work well together?

The most exotic paint I've come across to date is a two-stage Dupont Imron. I usually use an enamel for repairs. (enamel also comes in the pearl colours some european frame manufacturers use.) I restore steel lugged frames so dissimilar paints aren't an issue since I can sand down to bare metal between the lugs, use an etching primer, enamel colour coat and then the clear.

[Kremmit]

Clear nail polish.  Comes with it's own brush.

[DrewKaree]

Clear nail polish.  Comes with it's own brush.

I bet you didn't have to tell him about the brush part.  Nancy.

[Brax]

Clear nail polish.  Comes with it's own brush.

I bet you didn't have to tell him about the brush part.  Nancy.

An AIRbrush is used for clearcoat repairs; the supplied paintbrush is for my pretty toenails. Everyone knows this. Especially this crowd. Buncha freaks. 

...it puts the lotion in the basket.

[USSEnterprise]

I'm going to go see the volvo 850 in a few minutes. I'm going to play with all her knobs and buttons.

[USSEnterprise]

oops, wrong thread

[DrewKaree]

oops, wrong thread

You think it's any easier for US to keep up with?

[USSEnterprise]

valid point

[psik0tik]

Say, are they still painting vintage bikes with catalyzed polyurethane?  That'd be great if they were, so we'd know that rattle-can enamel would definitely work, instead of guesstimating.....what kinda primer do you use to make those two dissimilar products work well together?

The most exotic paint I've come across to date is a two-stage Dupont Imron. I usually use an enamel for repairs. (enamel also comes in the pearl colours some european frame manufacturers use.) I restore steel lugged frames so dissimilar paints aren't an issue since I can sand down to bare metal between the lugs, use an etching primer, enamel colour coat and then the clear.

Imron is a single stage paint...2 stage would be basecoast clearcoat...sorry I own a body shop had to put my input in...and if imron 5.0 is the most exotic then you have been out of the loop forever