Is there a dremel bit that can drill for t-molding?

[jon]

I noticed a couple router attachments on ebay for dremels.....is there a attatchment for t-molding?

[pocketz]

i dont know about the dremel but http://www.t-molding.com has a router bit that is intended for the tmolding groove. thats what i use and it works like a charm.

i would guess that a dremel isnt strong enough to make such a groove. it might start smoking, glowing red, then melt in your hands before exploding in a giant ball of fire.  

-paul

[Sshado]

Speaking of T-molding.  What do you use on Oak (if you are staining it)?  Do you use a T-molding or some wood molding?

Sshado

[pocketz]

for the oak cab i used oak wood molding. i used a pneumatic brad nailer(small nail gun) to attach it then wood filler on the tiny nail holes.

[MameFan]

Nail on molding?  EEWWWWWWWW!  

Actually if you want the whole cabinet to look "Oak" then simply get some rolls of the iron-on "edgebanding".  At many hardware stores they go on sale for $1 for 8' or $3.50 for 24', in 3/4" or 7/8" wide (you can trim the exxcess)

You simply take your household iron (without water in it) and "melt" it on.  Works great for building bookcases/shevles/etc..

But you still could put regular plastic molding on too, but perhaps a better match would be the chrome style metal molding that applies like plastic ones. They're meant for slot machines but may look nice on an oak-stained cabinet.

[PacManFan]

To answer the question, Yes, there is a bit you can use for t-moulding with the dremel. That's how I did mine. You'll need the screw- on router attachment, and a metal slot cutting disk. I don't rememebr the name specifically of the slot cutting disk, It was around 15$, and it works great. The trick is to get the disk centered on the piece of wood you're slotting with the plastic router stand in place.

-PacManFan

[hyiu]

I believe that is called "carbide cutting wheel"

try this link....

http://www.arcadecontrols.org/yabbse/index.php?board=1;action=display;threadid=201;start=0

you might find this thread helpful....

[Chris]

I used a cutting wheel freehand for the edge of a 23" CP, but I wouldn't recommend a Dremel for routing an entire cab without special attachments.

--Chris

[pocketz]

Nail on molding?  EEWWWWWWWW!  

mamefan, if you look at my oak cabinet webpage, http://netbox.home.mindspring.com/arcade , you will see that the molding is actually real oak wood trim. the arcade cabinet was built like a piece of hardwood furniture and i wanted to make it as classy as possible. brad nails are extremely small and you cant even see where they were installed.

-paul

[JayTea]

     You can buy a dremel saw blade at your local ACE hardware (Home Depot didn't have them)  It is a mini saw blade that cuts deep and wide enough, although you will have to do it freehand or devise a homemade jig (unless there is a bit on the market I don't know about).  I already had this in my tool repetoire, so I tried it.  It took a Loooooong time to do about 2 feet.  I broke down and bought the router jig from http://www.carbide.com for $23.00 w/tax.  Works like a charm!

[seaner]

I'd recommend using some sort of disc bit.. I recently routed out a channel using my dewalt rotary cutter with a straight bit and it was very hard to get the groove straight.. I would have gone with the special router bit, but not having a router it didn't seem the best idea.

[MameFan]

Pocketz --

I was making reference to bad jobs, I've seen many a T-Molding STAPLED or brad-nailed onto a cabinet and that just looks awful (and is a physical hazard with your skin!)

Your stuff definitely looks good as furniture.  I personally prefer authentic plastic strips, but yours should hold up lots longer from casual scratches, just not as well against a huge dent/swipe.  Good work!