fix coin door cutout problem...

[melarky]

I finally got my coin door (small happs 2 entry), and was so excited to install it that I measured the width and height of the back part, and cut out a square in the front to install it.  I didn't even think about the rounded corners (I figured they would be covered by the coin door frame when hung).  Well, I got the square hole cut, and I put the coin door in, and I can see the cut hole at the corners.  How can I fix this?  I really don't want to make a new front peice, it's already installed, puttied, and primed, just waiting for paint, and now this).

I hope this makes sense, let me know if I need to clarify.

[kingflynn]

I'm guessing the exposed areas are too big to be filled with wood filler.  You can use some bondo autobody filler.  I've never used it, but it's supposed to be good for filling large areas.  Overfill the corners a little, then sand it flush.

[NightGod]

I just used some wood filler. Took a couple of layers, but that stuff dries pretty quick (like 15 mins to set, but you want to leave it a full 24 hours before sanding it. Between the proximity of the coin door and the paint on top of it, you can barely tell it's there, even if you're looking for it.

[melarky]

Well, I am trying wood filler.  I think 3 of the 4 corners will be fine with wood filler, but the top left corner was a pretty large gap between it and the coin door, not sure if it's going to hold (I am expecting that wood filler to fall out when I start to sand it, but I hope I'm wrong).

I made little cardboard forms in the top corners to put the filler in, the bottom corners had gravity on their side to keep them in place.  I did this pretty late last night, so I will probably check them tomorrow when it's been even more than 24 hours.

The worst part about this is, this isn't my first arcade.  My brother in law helped with the other arcades we've made (one for me, one for him, one for his brother, etc...) and I somehow managed to never notice that we cut rounded corners before

Thanks for all of the suggestions, I hope this works...

[ChadTower]

I'd use bondo, probably in two passes.  I don't like wood filler for anything beyond small surface repairs.  There is a reason it is called filler.

[mikevangels]

One thing that I've done in a similar situation was to drill a couple screws into the wood first before I applied the putty (kinda like re-bar in concrete).  By leaving the screws sticking out a bit you give the putty a bit more strength IMO.

[melarky]

I checked on this yesterday, and I removed the cardboard forms from the top corners.  It seems pretty good so far, but I'm worried that it will fall out once I sand it or something.  I will try sanding it tonight probably (wanted to give it plenty of time to dry).  Thanks again for all the suggestions.

[prOk]

I'd clean up the corners and cut some triangular blocks to glue into them.. let dry, then fill the joints with some wood filler sand away. much stronger than straight wood filler or bondo.

[ChadTower]

It's a good method, his method.

[Stingray]

I'd use bondo, probably in two passes.  I don't like wood filler for anything beyond small surface repairs.  There is a reason it is called filler.

Bondo is a brand name of auto body filler. It's not made for large areas either.

I'd clean up the corners and cut some triangular blocks to glue into them.. let dry, then fill the joints with some wood filler sand away. much stronger than straight wood filler or bondo.

I agree that this is the best way to go about this repair.

-S

[ChadTower]

Bondo is a brand name of auto body filler. It's not made for large areas either.

Hrm.  Point made on the term.  I still say it's much stronger than wood filler, though.  I've never had good results with wood filler for anything much larger than a divot.

[Stingray]

I just reread what I wrote in that last post and I think I need to clarify. Body filler isn't intended to be used on deep areas or to cover large holes. When using it on a car body the idea is always to work the metal out to as close as you can get it to how it was before the damage occured, and then apply a thin layer of filler. The deeper the filler is the weaker the repair is. I have no experience using body filler on wood, since that's not what it's made for.

-S

[ChadTower]

It works pretty well.  The weakness becomes the wood itself to which the Bondo bonded.  The Bondo is actually stronger once dried than the wood that was originally there... so if it breaks off, say in a corner repair, it takes a big chunk of the wood to which it bonded.

[NiteWalker]

I love bondo too, but in this case I'd do the block of wood in the corners method prok advised. Nothing will give you a more durable repair. It's how most of the woodworkers in videos I watch recommend that overcuts be fixed.

[NightGod]

That said, exactly how durable of a repair do you need for an area that is never going to undergo any stress? You could literally stick a piece of construction paper in there and it would be sufficient as long as the tape holding it in place didn't give out.

[NiteWalker]

It's just that feeling of *knowing* that you have your cabinet put together with construction paper (or at least the coin door ). I think it's every cabinet builder's dream that when humans become extinct via meteor or whatever their arcade machine is the only thing left standing. 

The next ark should be an arcade cabinet

@stew_bidasso
Don't know if filler or real wood will remedy this...
use 1/2" steel!

[NightGod]

Lol-not saying I'd use construction paper, just saying that filler or bondo is more than enough for a purely cosmetic fix =p

[ChadTower]

By the time he cut four corner pieces and got them in place he could have cut a whole new front piece. 

[NiteWalker]

True, but it would be a problem if he already had the coin door panel glued and screwed in place before noticing the problem. Also, he may not have had enough material left for a new panel.

[ChadTower]

Yep.  Hopefully he has learned to measure at least twice before making any cuts.  I learned that the hard way too.

[melarky]

yes, I hope I've learned my lesson and will never cut a square hole for a rounded corner coin door again

I sanded the puttied corners yesterday, and 3 of the 4 corners turned out great, but I had to redo one of the corners. I had put too much putty in it, so I had to sand it down quite a bit, and it started cracking towards the end.  I made the cardboard form much smaller this time, so once it's dry, it should be good.

I agree that the the triangle cut outs do seem like they would be a better solution (as in more durable), but as mentioned above, these are just small little corners for the coin door and should receive no stress, so I think the ease of using putty will work well).

I really need to get some photos of this project, if I do, I'll post a pic of this in this thread (and probably start a thread in project announcements).  Thanks again to everyone.

[melarky]

Well, I've had the wood putty fall out of the top corner about 3 times now, so I finally just cut out a little rounded corner piece out of some scrap wood and glued it in there today.  It's already pretty aparent that it will work much better.  I'll have to sand it down, and then putty the surface to smooth it out, but it should be rock solid.  Thanks for the tip, I'll let you know how that works out.

[prOk]

Hehe.. there's never a substitute for doing things right.  Don't be seduced by the 'easy' dark side

[Texasmame]

yes, I hope I've learned my lesson and will never cut a square hole for a rounded corner coin door again

I sanded the puttied corners yesterday, and 3 of the 4 corners turned out great, but I had to redo one of the corners. I had put too much putty in it, so I had to sand it down quite a bit, and it started cracking towards the end.  I made the cardboard form much smaller this time, so once it's dry, it should be good.

I agree that the the triangle cut outs do seem like they would be a better solution (as in more durable), but as mentioned above, these are just small little corners for the coin door and should receive no stress, so I think the ease of using putty will work well).

I really need to get some photos of this project, if I do, I'll post a pic of this in this thread (and probably start a thread in project announcements).  Thanks again to everyone.

Others mentioned Bondo.  Sounds like that's better suited for this job than putty.  Bondo is what I use for all "major" repairs/rebuilds.  If I ever get my pics up of my project, you'll see what I mean.   

[Gambit]

I ordered my coin door, but didn't want to wait for it to arrive so I made the cutout based on the size information on their website. I had my machine sanded, painted, and even working, sitting in my living room waiting for the coin door.

My fingers were crossed of course, and luckily the information on Happ website was correct and the coin door fit perfectly.

I could have easily made a mistake and ended up doing something like what you had to go through. I was just luckier I guess.

[leapinlew]

Replacing the sheet of wood the coin door sat in not an option? Usually the coin door area isn't that large.

Sounds like you went the repair route already, but I might've considered cutting a new front plate for the arcade.

[melarky]

I had considered replacing the front piece, but thought that the putty solution sounded easier and faster.  Now that it's been such a pain, I probably should have just done that (oh well, lesson learned).  I will probably try to sand this tonight, and then apply the finall putty to smooth it out (not the big chunk of putty I was using before).  Hopefully that will be the end of it

[melarky]

I finally finished this project, and you can't really tell that there was ever a problem with the coin door.  I have posted details and pics:

http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=60545.0

Thanks for all of your help.