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Author Topic: Painting metal (refurb. Star Wars Yoke and Spy Hunter Wheel.)  (Read 2193 times)

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ZaneMn

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I am taking on a project reburbishing a Star Wars Yoke and a Spy Hunter Wheel.  My question is on painting the metal on these controls.  I assume the first step is taking a fine grit sandpaper and removing all the old paint.  Once this is done how can I paint the metal parts so there is no "flaking" of the paint.  I'd like a Black, smooth glossy finish to the paint so I can rule out powder coating and baking the paint.  Any suggestions on what paint to use and how to apply it? Thanks.

kspiff

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Re:Painting metal (refurb. Star Wars Yoke and Spy Hunter Wheel.)
« Reply #1 on: March 21, 2003, 01:07:56 am »
For mine I bought one of those oxidizing rust/paint removal wheels for my drill.. got off as much of the original coating with that as I could, then used primarily razor blades (some sandpaper) to scrape off the rest (you probably won't get it all off, btw).  Then I slapped on some Rustoleum clean metal primer (2 coats, coats just fine even on the lightly rusted/still painted areas) and will be applying black gloss (probably 3 coats) when I have the time, then probably 2 coats of clear gloss.  Looking pretty good so far, but remember to follow the spray paint directions carefully.. I would also recommend getting a mask and goggles and spraying in a well ventilated indoor area (my coats are turning out much smoother and more even this way, anyways) like a garage.
k-spiff

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Re:Painting metal (refurb. Star Wars Yoke and Spy Hunter Wheel.)
« Reply #2 on: March 21, 2003, 02:04:18 am »
... I'd like a Black, smooth glossy finish to the paint so I can rule out powder coating and baking the paint.  Any suggestions on what paint to use and how to apply it? Thanks.

So why does that rule out powder coat?  Powder coat comes in just about any color and finish you can think of, including glossy black.

Just keep in mind that that the finish will only be as good as the condition of the metal underneath.  Beadblasting works well for surface prep if you have access to that kind of equipment.

RandyT


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Re:Painting metal (refurb. Star Wars Yoke and Spy Hunter Wheel.)
« Reply #3 on: March 21, 2003, 02:33:23 am »
what I did for my coin door.

got my paint stripping wheel for my drill.  stripped the paint.
took a can of gloss black spray paint and had fun:)

Brax

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Re:Painting metal (refurb. Star Wars Yoke and Spy Hunter Wheel.)
« Reply #4 on: March 21, 2003, 10:25:06 am »
I had my Midway coin door sandblasted and then I used a black satin finish paint. (the paint is actually made to cover chrome or aluminum door mouldings. It has great "bite". I found it in the automotive section) IMO it matches EXACTLY to the original finish.
If you build a frankenpanel, chances are I don't care for you as a person.

MameFan

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Re:Painting metal (refurb. Star Wars Yoke and Spy Hunter Wheel.)
« Reply #5 on: March 21, 2003, 10:54:35 am »
Here's what I did when I refurbished numerous coin doors (Midway, Williams and CoinCo) last summer, as well as the control panels from a MsPac cocktail and Pac upright

1) Sand, Sand, Sand, Sand, Sand  - Get it smooth and free of rust and any rough edges from old power paint.

2) Use a metal spay paint primer.  Sand it smooth afterwards.

3) Use a Flat (generic) or ULTRA-Flat (krylon) black spray paint. It's fairly hard to make it run. Do a coat, then sand it down with a fine sanding foam block, then do another 3 or 4 coats, sanding between each.  Using the Flat or Ultra flat keeps any runs from appearing and gives an EXCELLENT smooth base.

(Between coats, after it is no longer tacky, I set them out in the hot summer sun baking each coat on fully--Warning it gets very hot to touch!!)

4) After I was satisfied with the base flat/ultra flat coats, I then picked out my "final coat".  For the cocktail control panels I used high gloss generic paint (of all things.. 96 cents a can).  Did two LIGHT coats to ensure no running.  Didn't sand between them.  Now has a great baked on, 6 layer thick black finish.

For the pac upright I chose a Satin finish Rustoleum paint to more closely match the original power coating.  Again, 2 LIGHT coats since it was just to give it the sheen that the flat couldn't give.  By doing so many layers of flat, you build up a good color base that is harder to ding-out and expose the metal, while not having to pour as much of a final coat on, risking runs/etc..

For the coin doors, I chose a Semi-Gloss Krylon paint to give it just enough shine but not too much, like the newer powder coated doors.


In summary: Start with a sanded base, put on a good metal primer, sand smooth, then as many coats of a flat base as you can (to keep from creating runs), sanding between, then pick your final coat sheen that you want and apply TWO light coats to avoid runs.