Install Help - Routing Edges for T Molding

[whynotpizza]

Hi,

Does anyone have experience routing edges of 3/4" MDF to insert T molding?

I am specifically looking to try this for my control panel edging.

Do you use a router?
Should you use a dremel tool instead?
How to maintain a straight/even cut?
Pictures/examples?
Where is a good place to get T-Molding?
Are there different types of T-Molding which work better?

Any pointers is appreciated.

   David

[fatfingers]

I used a router. 

I think my router is a "plunge" router (I don't really know), so I was able to set the depth of the "plunge" I wanted by tightening a handle at exactly the 1/2 way point of the 3/4" thickness of the board.  Once the depth was set, I didn't have to change anything until I was done routing for the t-molding.

www.t-molding.com seems to be where people buy their t-molding around here. 

[ArcadeMaze]

X

[MovingTarget]

Hi,

Does anyone have experience routing edges of 3/4" MDF to insert T molding?

I am specifically looking to try this for my control panel edging.

Do you use a router?
Should you use a dremel tool instead?
How to maintain a straight/even cut?
Pictures/examples?
Where is a good place to get T-Molding?
Are there different types of T-Molding which work better?

Any pointers is appreciated.

   David

Yes you should use a router and NOT a dremel.  You will need a router and a 1/16" slot cutting bit for it.  Basically you just put the bit in the router, put the router on your MDF, you can then adjust where the slot cutter will cut into the MDF, you can eyeball it (like I did) to the middle or measure and make the adjustment.  After you've made your adjustments you just tighted down the knobs on the router, turn it on and start making the cuts.

Tips:
-The router cuts best going left to right or right to left, read the instructions to know which way is best and don't go the other way. 
-Measure twice before cutting and make sure all the adjustment screws are tight before you start
-Make sure the MDF piece is secured to something before you start and make sure to use 2 hands on the router
-Wear eye protection and a mask.
-Cut the slot outside, that MDF dust goes everywhere and is nasty
-BE SAFE

Honestly, it's very easy to use the router to cut the slot.  If you don't have a router you can probably rent one at a local hardware store.

Just do a Google search for T Molding, check out Ebay, look here in the buy and sell section.  The site mentioned above has a good selection but I found mine for much less someone had on sale here in this site.  I don't think one works better over the other.

Good luck, honestly I think you'll be surprised how easy this step is.

[amerish]

Use a router, the drem tool just wont do the job right.

If you are building an Ultimate Arcade II cab, route the edges prior to assembling the top to the bottom. If you wait until the end you may find the router bit too big to do the groove along the bottom part of the upper cab.

[Rudi]

A router is the only solution for a neat cut.  If you don't have one, get one.  It will be one of the best tools to own.  If are looking at buying one I recommend buying a cheap one first (Harbor Freight or Ryobi) and then get a good one after you have some experience and see what they can do. Then get a good one.  My first was a Ryobi thats now 5 years old, and two months ago I got a Porter-Cable.

I got my cutter blade when I bought my t-moulding.  Just check the thickness, 1/16" is normal.

And the recommendation about doing it outside....take it very seriously.  You don't work on MDF indoors!

Test on a piece of scrap.  After you do it once, you'll see how easy it really is.

-Rudi

[severdhed]

i just used a router indoors the other day...dont do it.  My basement looks like a saw mill now.

also, I didnt see this mentioned, but if you are installing Tmolding around your control panel, if it is covered in plexiglass, make sure you take into account the extra thickness, which also means that the slot you need to route wont be in the center of the board.

[whynotpizza]

Thanks guys, excellent suggestions.

Now I need to go get a decent 1/16" router bit!

By the way, I did a 1/8" "roundover" edge cut on the LEXAN top surface, so I am not sure if I need to overlap the TMolding (i.e. slightly off-set the center hole cut for Tmolding).

Has anyone else done a roundover on the edge of the LEXAN surface? I did already, so please go easy and don't say it will stink .... since I really don't want to redo that thing!

My only reason for TMolding at the moment is the paint on the edge looks like crap, so I think adding the molding will be a nice final touch.

    David

[ahofle]

By the way, I did a 1/8" "roundover" edge cut on the LEXAN top surface, so I am not sure if I need to overlap the TMolding (i.e. slightly off-set the center hole cut for Tmolding).

Has anyone else done a roundover on the edge of the LEXAN surface? I did already, so please go easy and don't say it will stink .... since I really don't want to redo that thing!

I didn't even do a roundover edge on my 1/8" lexan, and I still centered the T-molding so it's only covering the wood (not the lexan).  I think it looks great.

[MovingTarget]

By the way, I did a 1/8" "roundover" edge cut on the LEXAN top surface, so I am not sure if I need to overlap the TMolding (i.e. slightly off-set the center hole cut for Tmolding).

Has anyone else done a roundover on the edge of the LEXAN surface? I did already, so please go easy and don't say it will stink .... since I really don't want to redo that thing!

I didn't even do a roundover edge on my 1/8" lexan, and I still centered the T-molding so it's only covering the wood (not the lexan).  I think it looks great.

Ditto here, although sometimes I wish I had done the roundover bit on the Lexan but I would have still just centered the T-Molding without worrying about covering the side of the Lexan. 

There really isn't a right way, it's up to you how you want the finished thing to look and feel.

[erictrumpet]

I also vote for centering the t-molding slot in the wood, especially since you already rounded over the lexan (which I do not consider a "mistake" in the least... I'll bet that makes a nice comfortable edge!)

Eric.

[NiteWalker]

Tips:
-The router cuts best going left to right or right to left, read the instructions to know which way is best and don't go the other way. 

That is incorrect. The correct feed direction for a router is ALWAYS left to right. Cutting right to left is what's called a climb cut and is potentially very dangerous. Only on a router table is feeding right to left the correct direction. Never feed left to right on a router table. Bad things will happen to your workpiece, router and probably fingers.

Everything else you said was great though.

Thanks guys, excellent suggestions.
By the way, I did a 1/8" "roundover" edge cut on the LEXAN top surface, so I am not sure if I need to overlap the TMolding (i.e. slightly off-set the center hole cut for Tmolding).

Has anyone else done a roundover on the edge of the LEXAN surface? I did already, so please go easy and don't say it will stink .... since I really don't want to redo that thing!

My only reason for TMolding at the moment is the paint on the edge looks like crap, so I think adding the molding will be a nice final touch.

    David

You don't need to offset the t-molding. Center it on the MDF only.

Here's how my 1/8" roundover turned out on the control panel I built:

It sounds very similar to your methods. The t-molding slot is centered in the wood only. The lexan is held in place with countersunk screws.

To all who cut MDF:
Yes it is very dusty to cut and work. I cut it indoors exclusively and do not have any dust problems. The solution is to have a shop vac running whenever you cut or rout it. It catches at least 85-90% of the dust. The easiest way is to hook the shop vac's hose up to the tool's dust port if it has one. Otherwise, have a friend hold the hose or do what I've done and configure something with clamps. It's simple and saves your lungs and prevents a mess.

[whynotpizza]

Thanks for the posts, I especially was encouraged to see someone else with the same idea to roundover the lexan, this is good! Thanks NiteWalker for the pics and MovingTarget for the details on "howto"! 

I sure can't wait til I get this thing all put together...am waiting for some TMolding before I start cutting the edge groove. Once I get the t-molding in place, I can secure the control panel overlay and then the lexan and really see what this thing will look like.

  David

[MovingTarget]

Tips:
-The router cuts best going left to right or right to left, read the instructions to know which way is best and don't go the other way. 

That is incorrect. The correct feed direction for a router is ALWAYS left to right. Cutting right to left is what's called a climb cut and is potentially very dangerous. Only on a router table is feeding right to left the correct direction. Never feed left to right on a router table. Bad things will happen to your workpiece, router and probably fingers.

Everything else you said was great though.

Thanks for clarifying, what I was trying to say is there is one correct way to move the router and I couldn't remember which way that was and to please check the instructions instead of guessing. 

I didn't mean to imply some routers work right to left and others left to right.   

[MaMeNnO]

Maybe a stupid question, but how do you route through points A and B (see below)? What kind of router does that?



Can anybody clear that for me?

[NiteWalker]

While it would be easier for the router to cut correctly if those inside corners had a small radius, you should have no problem using the router normally to cut the slots. Most slot cutters cut a slot 1/2" deep. The required depth for t-molding is only 3/8", so you have about a 1/8" workaround. You should be fine. Just rout as you would the outside edges.

[MaMeNnO]

O wait... 
I was thinking that I should put the router on top of the edge itself...    I'm no woodworker, just building a cabinet. 

Forgive my ignorance.

[NiteWalker]

Here's how it would work:
http://www.arcadeparadise.org/arcade/ap3/photos/routing.jpg

Pic from www.arcadeparadise.org

[MaMeNnO]

After my post I googled and found this picture

That made my eyes go wide open! I can see the bright light right now 

[NiteWalker]

Glad you figured it out.

[JoyMonkey]

I've got a good Porter Cable plunge router at home that I paid a good amount of money for, but never use. I have a small "Ryobi Laminate Trimmer" at work that I use for t-molding and other small manual routing jobs, I think it's an older model of this one and does the job great.

[elvis]

A quick tip:

Centering your router can be a drama sometimes.  I know a lot of people who use measurements and rulers to center them, and this always ends in tears.

The easiest way is to do the following:

1) UNPLUG YOUR ROUTER.  Safety first.  These things *will* take your finger if you're not careful.

2) Get a piece of MDF/timber that you are cutting (an offcut is nice and handy).

3) Put the wood up to the route bit and center it by eye.  Now depress the wood into the bit, leaving a small indentation in the wood.

4) Flip the wood around an d repeat.

When your small depressions line up from both sides, you are dead center.

I find people who center their routers with a ruler always end up with off-center t-moulding, or needing to trim one side.  Worse still: if they route from one side for one half of their sheet, flip the material and route from the other side for the other half, and the routing grooves don't meet up!

Routers are incredibly versatile tools.  No workshop should be without one.

[NiteWalker]

Routers are incredibly versatile tools.  No workshop should be without one.

Elvis! You should be ashamed! 

How can you recommend only 1?!?
A workshop needs at least 3....

Great tip btw. Saves messy test cuts.

[elvis]

How can you recommend only 1?!?
A workshop needs at least 3....

HAHA so true!

I've only got 2 though.  Not yet a real man. 

[spacies]

Hey there,

I added a video clip link in the woodworking section.

Here: http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=58283.0

 

[JoyMonkey]

Cool! Added it to the wiki's T-Molding page.

[spacies]

Cool! Added it to the wiki's T-Molding page.

Nice one 

Do all you guys glue in your t-molding?
I have never done that. It doesn't need to be glued, that's why it has 'barbs' on the end.

If you are bending it around a curve with a radius of 25mm, or less, I would notch (v cut) the barbs. Anything around 30-40mm radius I would just heat gun it carefully and knock it in while warm. Anything above that will go straight in. I guess if you wanted to be dead-set certain it wasn't going to come out then you could glue it.

Another good tip is to leave your t-molding somewhere warm before using it. In the sun, on top of your hot water cylinder overnight, in your bed with you  . The pro's have 'hot boxes' which they put the molding in and it comes out warm and flexible.

Glueing just sounds like an unnecessary, messy exercise to me.

[whynotpizza]

Thanks all.

I have my tools and over the next few days I will go ahead and make the cuts on my CP as well as the sides of the cabinet.

I do not plan on doing any glue of the T-molding, since I think it would be a pain and not allow me to change colors down the road if I so choose. Besides, with a 1/16" slot cut, and the T-molding 3/32", it should fit inside the slot very well.

I'll post some pics when I am done.

   David

[JoyMonkey]

Glue is probably only a good idea where you're replacing t-molding from an original cabinet and the slot has been widened;

Most commercial built cabs are made of particle board. This is not as sturdy as materials like MDF. Following this, the slot made by the builders is sometimes not so tight and new T-molding doesn't stay in the slot without any help. It is relatively easy to fix the T-molding using a glue-gun.

[spacies]

Glue is probably only a good idea where you're replacing t-molding from an original cabinet and the slot has been widened;

Most commercial built cabs are made of particle board. This is not as sturdy as materials like MDF. Following this, the slot made by the builders is sometimes not so tight and new T-molding doesn't stay in the slot without any help. It is relatively easy to fix the T-molding using a glue-gun.

Good call. My bad.

[NightGod]

Make sure you have a rubber mallet handy, as well. Does wonders for getting the T-molding into the slot without damaging it.

[NiteWalker]

I never use PPboard. I use MDF, get my t-molding from t-molding.com and never need glue. A rubber mallet is very much necessary as the t-molding would be wayyyy to hard to press in by hand. I use a whiteside 1 16" (.062) slot cutter. A very tight fit I am satisfied with.

Also, not 100% sure on this but the rubber mallets with the white heads are non marring and a bit softer.

[Level42]

Wow hadn't expected already reactions on my little Wikipedia additon.........

Indeed (I thought I indicated that clearly enough) there is NO need for glue if you make a NEW panel and slot.

ONLY in the situation that I was talking about (REPLACING T-molding on an excisting cab with WIDE slots) you MAY need to use glue. It all depends on your situation.

I'll try and make it a little more clear on the article...

[WaRpEd]

When cutting T-molding I would use a router with a wide base and NOT a trim router this will prevent wobbly cuts as the base is easier to control with practice. Again practice on some scrap wood first saves alot of headaches later.
Trim routers are great for edge detailing and freehand work. I have 3 different routers trim, plunge, and my old large workhorse router.
I can't think of a more versatile tool in my workshop.
Cheers