Author Topic: changing monitor (Read 7116 times)

hunty3000 · « **on:** August 26, 2006, 06:14:22 pm »

hi, i just got this swp crystal maze machine but the monitor didnt work init. i got a new one to put init but i dont know how to wire it up. i know one cable is for the signal and the other for the power but i dont know where each wire goes. if somebody could tell me that would be great
if u need any more pic or info let me know
thank you to anyone who helps
Sean

grantspain · « **Reply #1 on:** August 26, 2006, 07:04:47 pm »

i am very familiar with this machine(barcrest),the original monitor was a wells gardner 7000 series your replacement is a kortek-it will work but the wiring is different,the original had 2 power input wires at 120 v a/c coming from an isolation transformer-you will require 120v and another pair rated at 240v for the degauss circuit,also your rgb signal input plug is different.the wiring for this model kortek is the same as a mtc900/9000 hantarex-if you look closely at those plugs they should be marked-for the power input 110 or 120 for one pair and 240 or 220 for the other pair,also the signal input should be marked r,g,b,s and com/gnd-if you have probs identifying this let me know and i will see what i can dig up from the ancient past-bet you are in the u.k-its about 10 years since i worked on one of these(those trackerballs are sods btw)

hunty3000 · « **Reply #2 on:** August 27, 2006, 04:45:47 am »

thanks for the help, the hopper is also disconnected and i dont know where it goes. if u can still remember let me know please. ill try and do that monitor today thanks again

hunty3000 · « **Reply #3 on:** August 27, 2006, 07:02:29 am »

sorry could you draw me a diagram where the wires go. where do i get the other 240v from. sorry but this is the first time i have messed with monitors.

Kevin Mullins · « **Reply #4 on:** August 27, 2006, 02:24:47 pm »

As for the AC power, are you stateside or elsewhere? (120v or 240v)
I assume 240v since you kinda mentioned it.

Are there any other identifying markings on the chassis?
(can maybe find a manual for it)

Oh, and dust that thing off too.

Note the lettering next to the video connector:

hunty3000 · « **Reply #5 on:** August 27, 2006, 03:03:03 pm »

thanks for the reply, i under stand where the signal wires go its just the power ones i dont know about. grantspain said the old monitor runs of 120v which looks right when i had a look in the machine. but he said you also need to connect 240v to the new monitor. i dont know how to do that bit. i also dont know which are which pins on the power input on the new monitor. carnt i just power the new monitor of the 120v cable what i got.
i live in the uk and it is a uk machine what runs of 240v.
thanks

grantspain · « **Reply #6 on:** August 27, 2006, 04:20:38 pm »

you don't need the 240v your monitor is free ranging-just connect your 120v (black/white) to the red and black wires(just snip them off and put them in some connector block)

hunty3000 · « **Reply #7 on:** August 28, 2006, 08:01:49 am »

just installed the monitor, it fits great, powered up ok, BUT all u can see is a horizontal white line across the middle of the screen. i know the monitor works ok because it came from a working machine. does it matter if it connected to the -v or +v because i think on the old monitor it was connected to the +v and on this monitor you can only connect it to the -v.

hunty3000 · « **Reply #8 on:** August 28, 2006, 08:22:25 am »

just had another go with it. dont think it does matter about the + and - because there is a switch on the monitor to switch between them.

grantspain · « **Reply #9 on:** August 28, 2006, 09:27:14 am »

you should have a remote adjustment board on that monitor with brightness/vert hold etc-is that on it?

hunty3000 · « **Reply #10 on:** August 28, 2006, 10:07:20 am »

i dont know all thats on it is whats in the picture at the top

grantspain · « **Reply #11 on:** August 28, 2006, 10:17:07 am »

the tube is obscurring the view of where the adjustment board should be,what you should have is an upright board just under that tube neck-if you see a line of pins sticking up then your board is missing,but post a pic

hunty3000 · « **Reply #12 on:** August 28, 2006, 10:27:17 am »

yes i think it is missing, do i have to get a specific one for the board. is it definitely that or might it be blown.

grantspain · « **Reply #13 on:** August 28, 2006, 10:36:19 am »

if you done that on a wells gardner you would have blown the psu circuit,you need to get the correct one for that board without it you get a frame collapse but i think the kortek survive that card missing-whoever you got the monitor from should have that adjustment board or as your in u.k pop down to any amusement operator near you and see if they have one,where in the u.k are you(and please don't tell me you bought that machine from ivor thomas amusements)

hunty3000 · « **Reply #14 on:** August 28, 2006, 10:44:01 am »

so i havent blown it up then. im from worcester, ill ask the bloke i got it from if not ill see if i can get one from work because i work for a place that does machines. whats the make and model of my monitor. thanks for all the help mate. wouldent of been able to do it without ya.

ps- can u remember how to connect the hopper up, i thought it would of went to the mpu4 but there no connections for it.

grantspain · « **Reply #15 on:** August 28, 2006, 12:04:16 pm »

its a ktn-f20 freerange voltage monitor,the payout solenoid does connect straight to the mpu4 payout plug those cabinets always had a lead with a connection half way up going to the payout-you may be able to make your own but i bet if you contact barcrest technical they can get you the lead or the correct pinout,i think its four wires 24v/common for the payout solenoid and then common/normally open for the tube level sensor,send a good pic of your mpu4 please

hunty3000 · « **Reply #16 on:** August 28, 2006, 12:39:49 pm »

the wires go to the sensor on the hopper then 4 come out and go to no where, there not very long so they must go some where by it but i carnt find where they go. i thought they would go to the mpu4 because something has to tell the thing to payout and give it power. ill send u a pic 2morrow cuz im out on the piss now. i also should get the board for the monitor so i let u know how i get on. thank for all the help mate. who do u work for to no all this stuff. ive only been in the bussiness for about 2 years. but mainly do fruit machines and megatouches. i didnt stick a real arcade monitor in my mame cabs went for a tv because thought it would be easyer and i was right.

grantspain · « **Reply #17 on:** August 28, 2006, 01:08:09 pm »

wish i was!i have worked in the coin op business for 20 years,i now work in spain but my previous companies are s.e leisure,ivor thomas amusements and gamestec-i started as van assistant and worked up to workshop manager/senior engineer,i now work pretty independantly as a engineer in southern spain-if you need any help on anything ever just let me know,i know alot of people and companies in the u.k and i have a good knowledge of all coin op equipment,awp's and megatouch are my special subjects-well they were when i worked in the u.k

hunty3000 · « **Reply #18 on:** August 29, 2006, 03:16:53 pm »

hi ya mate, got that board for the monitor. but when i turn it on now nothing comes on at all just a black screen. i adjusted all the things but nothing happens. any ideas? oh yeah do i need to connect a earth wire to the monitor chassie.

grantspain · « **Reply #19 on:** August 29, 2006, 03:41:09 pm »

turn up the screen volts on the flyback transformer(the big plastic black lump on the right hand side),check for an orange glow from the neck and yes put an earth to the chassis

hunty3000 · « **Reply #20 on:** August 30, 2006, 12:29:36 pm »

nearly there now. turned the black things and it came on but all i get is a grey screen with white lines on it. ive tried adjusting all the things (R,G,B). i had to extend the signal wire because it wasent long enough but i only had bell wire will that matter.

grantspain · « **Reply #21 on:** August 30, 2006, 01:24:44 pm »

getting somewhere now,you are missing the signal input-i need a pic of where you put the r,g,b,sync and common wire on the monitor plug also have you got sounds,lights,coin acceptance etc because your fault now is either incorrectly wired signal,faulty video board,faulty mpu4 or faulty psu-see if the red led on the mpu4 is on first(you bought a right pig of a machine here,did you buy from a boot sale)

hunty3000 · « **Reply #22 on:** August 30, 2006, 01:54:05 pm »

hi ya mate, thats how i wirerd them up, but i have tried swoping the h and v. every thing else on the machine works fine, you can play it just no picture. i got the machine free off a bloke from work, i just got to build him a computer from my old parts for his mame cab. i got it to start my game room off because ive only got my 2 mame cabs, a cocktail and a upright. i reckon my upright could be in the hall of fame. im 21 so any machine i see i want.

grantspain · « **Reply #23 on:** August 30, 2006, 02:07:22 pm »

i now need a pic of the back door with the video board and the mpu4,i believe your video board is not connected or faulty

hunty3000 · « **Reply #24 on:** August 30, 2006, 02:24:31 pm »

ill have to take a pic 2moz cuz the cam ent here. the video connection is pluged in, i already checked that. the bloke i got it from said it deffinaterly works it just the monitor went. Is there anything else u think it might be. i also got a cable for the hopper from a barcrest fruit machine that had the same hopper. but it dont fit because it had a mpu5 in it. but the wiring on the hopper is all the same just need to find the right pinouts on the mpu4 i think.

grantspain · « **Reply #25 on:** August 30, 2006, 03:01:44 pm »

there are colour pots on the input on the chassis make sure they are turned up and check the contrast is turned up,an mpu5 lead wont work its completly different and you could blow the mpu4 up-the crystal maze have a solenoid not a hopper-thats a bit of a job sorting that loom out,don't worry about it yet until you get the monitor working then you can use switch and payout test to help you-i assume of course you are good with a multimeter

hunty3000 · « **Reply #26 on:** August 30, 2006, 03:07:42 pm »

i tried those colour pot things, nothing happend just the screen shake abit. the fruit machine had the same solinoid it in it. was a old club machine i took it out from. payed 20p aswell. when the screen is grey there is a tiny bit of colour on the horizontal edges, only about 1mm. ill have another try 2moz. if u get any more ideas let me know plz mate. cheers

grantspain · « **Reply #27 on:** August 30, 2006, 03:13:32 pm »

there are input switches as well on that chassis,normally if you get a screen of any kind then your monitor is running o.k(although it is possible to get problem with the blanking)-really its difficult to know where to start,is the monitor faulty or the video board or the wiring-best to check all the pots on the chassis contrast,colours and any on the neck card and those switches

hunty3000 · « **Reply #28 on:** August 30, 2006, 03:21:31 pm »

ill have play around and let u know how i get on. is the way i wired it correct, have i got the white in the right place. there is a switch on it aswell to swop between positive and negitive. i guess its negitive on this machine from looking at a manual for the old monitor. if i carnt do it soon i rekon ill have to make it in to a golden tee cab or something. have u got machines have you.

grantspain · « **Reply #29 on:** August 30, 2006, 03:31:22 pm »

i look after about 200 machines,good idea to use a different board input that will prove where the fault is exactly-i think it is wired correct,the sinc switch will only cause frame hold problems not colours-g green,b blue,r red,e black,h white sounds right to me
if i have a problem with no graphics but a blank screen i start at psu,then graphic input board then if no joy i try an input from another machine which i know the signal input works on(or a signal generator)

hunty3000 · « **Reply #30 on:** August 30, 2006, 03:38:23 pm »

i just had another go, no luck. they got one of them signal generators at work. ill see if they let me borrow it. ill ask the bloke at work aswell if he knows whats up with it cuz he does all the monitors at work. it wont be because i used bell wire to extend the cable would it.

grantspain · « **Reply #31 on:** August 30, 2006, 03:45:35 pm »

well i would not use bell wire as its crap,and i am sure you would have checked the continuity of the signal cable also the voltages on the colour input-just be very glad you're not one my old trainee's as you would be in serious trouble now(trained up about 20 engineers in the u.k,some are now service managers and senior engineers)-who do you work for?

hunty3000 · « **Reply #32 on:** August 30, 2006, 05:39:10 pm »

i used that cuz that was all i had lying around. i work 4 recaf ur old rival ent it. ive worked there for abot 1 1/2 years but been doing doing mame stuff 4 years. i got a nvq lv2 in electronics. bristol gamestec is ent it. never heard of tomas amuesments. i might replace the wires 2moz, and check it all with the m-meter

grantspain · « **Reply #33 on:** August 30, 2006, 05:51:45 pm »

bloody hell are you using translation software or have you had a few beers,who are recaf?i left the u.k a few years ago

hunty3000 · « **Reply #34 on:** August 30, 2006, 06:11:56 pm »

i have had a few beers but i do work for recaf, i carnt belive u ent heard of them, i always see gamestec when im in the vans. i always talk to a bold headed bloke on the van. he said he use to be a enginneer. and another bloke who does the jukeboxes got blackhair with glasses and his mate got long hair.

grantspain · « **Reply #35 on:** August 30, 2006, 06:17:03 pm »

what does recaf stand for?,the only companies i know in the u.k are gamestec,leisure link,crown and a multitude of independants.oh and btw most of us engineers are bald(its our brains growing through the hair)-been to hereford btw that was a laugh,i think thats near you

hunty3000 · « **Reply #36 on:** August 31, 2006, 02:14:26 pm »

recaf dont stand for any thing. yeah hereford is about 20mins away. i carnt belive you ent heard of it we do all of the midlands and south wales and other places. ive swopped the bell wire for some proper wire but i still ent got no picture. i reckon the machines had it.

grantspain · « **Reply #37 on:** August 31, 2006, 06:28:12 pm »

bollocks has the machine had it,you give up to easy(you should join gamestec)-now meter the voltages on the r,g,b you should have 3volts

hunty3000 · « **Reply #38 on:** September 02, 2006, 09:40:06 am »

measured the volts across them had about 2.8 so thats ok, must be the video board or sumin then.

grantspain · « **Reply #39 on:** September 03, 2006, 01:50:24 pm »

its certainly summin as you put it,try one thing for me swap the white and black wire on the signal input also you need to check the wiring from the video board to the mpu 4,a pic of the boards would help alot


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