To address the last post: the depth below the plate is less than most sticks, so it should fit just about anywhere. (However, I think there are stick schematics at Ultimarc.)
My own review:
First off, I'll add onto the Retroblast review points. Great stick, smooth motion. Very sensitive - in analog mode, particularly with the stock (light) spring, it almost registers if you blow hard on it. (I don't like the light spring, cos 1) at least one of mine will stick just slightly up or left; and 2), it has a little shake of play to it before moving.) When in digital mode, it has a little play before it activates, but is still quite short at, say, 2mm. Just as in the review, the shaft is a little short: I'm not sure why Andy did this, cos most people use MDF, which makes for a LOW stick. Hence, unless you've a metal or plastic board, GET THE LONGER SHAFT. Lastly, the ultramap utility is pretty straight forward - however, every time when loading, it defaults at analog for all sticks. Now, it doesn't program your stick to analog, it just doesn't show what configuration your present stick is in upon scaning for it. Kinda weird, but not a problem.
Okay, now my own thing: I hate the play in all digital (or digital emulating) sticks. I want it to engage/send a signal at 2mm, and stop at 3. (Or maybe 2.5.) For about two years, I've wanted to have someone make me a special P360 with this in mind - but with the advent of the Ultrastick, I decided to use it, instead. Unfortunately, Andy wasn't available to make me special restrictors, so I went local.
Below is a fabbed restrictor made of acrylic. I patterned it off the PCB and made the interior round. Notice the round Ultimarc restrictor next to it. See how BIG it is inside? Mine is probly half the size....basically, I measured the shaft and black plastic 'accuator' (about 13mm), and added 2mm to the diameter (NOT radius).
I'll segue for a moment. I also had to make my own mapping for this. Basically, I did what I call an 'easy 8-way', where I start in the first set of squares from the centre. This is the most responsive activation this stick can get.
Now, materials and fab process. The local guy I went to used a pulsing laser cutter. This isn't optimal, but it IS inexpensive. That is, CNC-made, you're looking at, at least, $100-200 dollars for just a few. In this case, it was only $10 bucks per, and he'll make me one at a time. (Now, seredipitously, I discovered I knew this guy from my home town, back in high school, and he gave me a super deal, so I paid hardly nothin for 'em....anyways...) It isn't quite perfectly round, and it's a little rough inside, so I used a small, fine grinding bit on my hand drill to finish it.
Now, it's super tight and I can make very fast moves with very little effort, which, for me, means more fun.