27inch Sharp inside a Lucid Flashback Cabniet!

[rdowdy95]

Hey guys I am using the Project Arcade book for my cabniet design.  The Project Arcade design of course is the Lucid Flashback Arcade Design.  I tried to look everywhere for a 25inch TV with S-Video.  All I could find was a couple of 24 inch ones.  Most of those didn't even have S-Video.  I ended up getting a 27inch Sharp TV with S-Video.  You can see the specs here.

http://www.sharpusa.com/products/ModelLanding/0,1058,1650,00.html

The width is 25 3/4".  The cabniet width on the panels in between the sides are 26".  Man that will be cutting it close.  I am going to have to make the cuts exact.  Now I would just make all panel pieces like 27 inch or 28 inch but the problem is I don't want to buy 4 sheets of plywood.  I only want to use 3 sheets.  I want plywood cause I am going with the stained look. 

Anyways have you guys put a 27inch TV inside a Lucid Flashback Arcade cab with the 26inch width panels?  Just want some opinions.  My Bezel is going to be pretty skinny with such a big screen.

[leapinlew]

I'll take a stab at this...

Get another sheet of plywood or MDF, but buy not stain grade plywood. Use this peice for the back and the supports inside the cabinet.

[bionicbadger]

I put a 27" Toshiba TV in my old cab (based on Lucid's design):
http://members.shaw.ca/atrick/

And my new cab (no web page yet) is almost the exact same.  I just made the width an extra inch wider.  Worked out great.

[shardian]

I don't think an extra $40 for a 4th sheet of plywood is going to blow your budget. Probably better off having it on hand for those screw-ups you know are going to happen.

[rdowdy95]

Thanks guys for the good replies.  You guys have sold me.  I will be getting a 4th piece of plywood.  I will make all inside cabniet pieces one inch bigger.  So instead of the original Lucid plan section that made all the widths 26" for the inside shelfs etc I will make them 27"  that way the total width through a door would be 28 1/2".  Thanks guys.  Also since I am going with an all wood look stained in Minwax Polyshades the Honey Pine color.  Look here to see:

http://www.minwax.com/products/onestep/polyshades-color.cfm

I was wondering.  Everyone says go T-Molding for protection.  What color of T-Molding should I use.  A dark brown maybe, or possibly black what do you guys think?

Also how far do I go back with the T-Molding.  I know the whole front of the cab do I do it on the very back of the cab too?  Or should I stop the tmolding rigth at the top of the marquee or take it back all the way down to the cabniet top or the cabniet back top section?

[leapinlew]

Thanks guys for the good replies.  You guys have sold me.  I will be getting a 4th piece of plywood.  I will make all inside cabniet pieces one inch bigger.  So instead of the original Lucid plan section that made all the widths 26" for the inside shelfs etc I will make them 27"  that way the total width through a door would be 28 1/2".  Thanks guys.  Also since I am going with an all wood look stained in Minwax Polyshades the Honey Pine color.  Look here to see:

http://www.minwax.com/products/onestep/polyshades-color.cfm

I was wondering.  Everyone says go T-Molding for protection.  What color of T-Molding should I use.  A dark brown maybe, or possibly black what do you guys think?

Also how far do I go back with the T-Molding.  I know the whole front of the cab do I do it on the very back of the cab too?  Or should I stop the tmolding rigth at the top of the marquee or take it back all the way down to the cabniet top or the cabniet back top section?

Black because there will be other black sections on your cabinet. The bezel, coin door and possibly your controls will be black.

[rdowdy95]

Thanks man I didn't think of that.  I will be wrapping it around the whole cabniet as well.  Even down the back.  Man I can't wait I am going to get the wood this weekend.  I am getting this Classic Birch Plywood from Home Depot.  It is very smooth as well.  Won't have to sand it that much.

[leapinlew]

Thanks man I didn't think of that.  I will be wrapping it around the whole cabniet as well.  Even down the back.  Man I can't wait I am going to get the wood this weekend.  I am getting this Classic Birch Plywood from Home Depot.  It is very smooth as well.  Won't have to sand it that much.

great! Don't forget to post in the project announcements and take pictures. For every person that responds on here, there are several who lurk without ever leaving a message. You could be helping someone out without even knowing it.

What I did was document the whole process as best I could and print it out. I then put the printout inside the cabinet. Although it may seem kind of boring to you, your kids may love it. I would love to have anything like that from my dad.

[jfh2112]

great! Don't forget to post in the project announcements and take pictures. For every person that responds on here, there are several who lurk without ever leaving a message. You could be helping someone out without even knowing it.

This is true. This is my 1st post but I've been visiting here for nearly a year; you wouldn't believe how many threads I have bookmarked about building cabs.

I put a 27" Orion TV in my Lusid cab, but kept the plans the same (I added 2 2x4s underneath the monitor shelf, though). It is definitely a tight fit, but the bezel sides aren't as thin as you'd think; you also have to take into account the casing on the sides you'll want to mask or cover up. The mask is about 2 1/8" wide on the sides.

[rdowdy95]

My project arcade uses 4  2x2 blocks underneath the monitor shelf with these right angle pieces (think they are called shelf brackets.  Do you think this would be good for a 27inch tv that weighs 70lbs.  I am just going by what my Project Arcade book says.  And if you had the choice would you make it a little bit wider next time so it wouldn't be so hard putting the TV in there?

[AtomSmasher]

My project arcade uses 4  2x2 blocks underneath the monitor shelf with these right angle pieces (think they are called shelf brackets.  Do you think this would be good for a 27inch tv that weighs 70lbs.  I am just going by what my Project Arcade book says.  And if you had the choice would you make it a little bit wider next time so it wouldn't be so hard putting the TV in there?

I followed the project arcade book and I used a 27'' tv which fits perfectly.  I think my tv is also 25 3/4'' wide, and I wouldn't want to make my cabinet any wider, it'd just be wasted space if I did.  As for the 2x2 blocks and shelf brackets, I used them and the shelf seems to be completely stable, no sign that it will ever break.  Just follow the plans in the book and you'll be fine.  The more you change from the plans, the more likely you'll screw something up 

[rdowdy95]

AtomSmasher that is a great reply man!  I now change my mind again I am keeping it the same size as the book and I am going to have a good setup.  Hey AtomSmasher can you post a pic of your cabniet?

[ArtMAME]

I bought a big JAMMA cab at an auction that I put a JVC 27" TV in.  The cab inside measurement was 25-1/8" and the TV was like 25-3/4"...  with a little "persuation" I got it in!!!    Had to mod the TV case...

Check it out:
http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=54556.0

Just some thing to check out.  I think it is still a good idea to get 4th sheet of plywood in your case.  It is better if you don't have to mod the TV case in the event that you ever switch to an arcade monitor and want to sell the TV.   

[rdowdy95]

Yeah I actually saw your post before about how you modded your TV in order to squeeze it in there.  I will just follow the books directions.  My TV is 25 3/4" and the width inside the thing is 26" so I should be good to go.  Once I start building this thing I will put in in the my project section.  The only other research I need to do is doing the underside of the contorl panel>  I have seen some folks route these kind of squares for the joysticks.  I need to see what is up with that and why it is done.  I figured you could just screw the top to the bottom with the case in between.  Or is that just how the joystick stuff is done?

[AtomSmasher]

Hey AtomSmasher can you post a pic of your cabniet?

Just click on my sig and you'll find plenty of pictures and a write-up on the construction, along with a link to my byoac thread from when I was building the cab.

Heres a pic anyways because I like to show it off

[rdowdy95]

That's a nice cab man.  I will look over your stuff about the cab.  Cause your cab will be pretty much just like mine, but I am going with a wood look instead of the traditional black.  I will be using black T-molding though.  Did you go with T-Molding even behind the Cab and top back section?  If you did, did you recess the top panels a little lower, or did you keep the top panels flush with the rest of the cabniet.  I am just trying to decide how much T-molding I need to get.

Thanks man for the great info cause my cab will be just like yours.  I am going to follow the book pretty precisely.

[AtomSmasher]

Did you go with T-Molding even behind the Cab and top back section?  If you did, did you recess the top panels a little lower, or did you keep the top panels flush with the rest of the cabniet.  I am just trying to decide how much T-molding I need to get.

I put molding on the angled back section, but not on the vertical back section.  I did not recess the panels at all, but apparently theres either a misprint in the book or I just missed it because according to Saint they are all supposed to be recessed a bit.  There was a discussion on this in the book section of this forum not too long ago.  It doesn't really matter either way though.

[rdowdy95]

Some more questions I have for you is about your monitor shelf.  Did you tilt it at an angle or did you just leave it level?

Then the other question is about the plexiglass in front of the monitor.  How did you get it to stay put in the cab? What holds it in there?

Thanks,

[AtomSmasher]

The monitor shelf is at an angle.  I first put it in level, but after putting the tv into the cab I realized it needed to be at an angle, so I changed it.  I didn't put it at an exact angle, just guesstimated what I thought it should be at.

The plexiglass is held in place by 4 screws, one in each corner.  The two bottom pieces of wood were already there to hold the tv in place, and I added two small blocks on the upper corners which worked great.

[rdowdy95]

yeah by looking at your cab it looks to be about a 15 degree tilt.  0 degree loooking right at you, and 90 degree looking straight up. 

On the monitor shelf did you have to more the 2x2 blocks so they would be tilted as well and also those brackets underneath the monitor shelf did when you tilted them did they hold up pretty well.

One other thing is there anything behind the TV to prevent it from sliding backwards since you tilted the monitor shelf?

[AtomSmasher]

I attached the 2x2 blocks the same way as stated in the book, with glue and screws, and the shelf brackets held up fine at the angle.  The main thing keeping the tv from sliding back is the upper back panel, but I also put in a few small wood blocks on the shelf, snug against the back of the tv, to make sure it was secure and wouldn't slide at all.  I'm pretty sure the extra blocks weren't needed and were added as an after thought when the cab was already complete, but I figured its better to be safe then sorry.

[mr.Curmudgeon]

Any of you guys with a 27" TV feel like your standing too close when you're at the control panel?  Just wondering.
I would assume not, since no one mentioned it, but I figured I'd ask.


mrC

[AtomSmasher]

Any of you guys with a 27" TV feel like your standing too close when you're at the control panel?  Just wondering.
I would assume not, since no one mentioned it, but I figured I'd ask.


mrC

I like the size of the screen, although any bigger probably would be too big.

[rdowdy95]

Thanks Atom.  It is good to know the wood blocks and the brackets will hold up nice with a little tilt on them.  Good idea about putting some left over wood blocks behind the TV to just make sure it won't slide.  Also to the other poster LOL!  My Dad was like man won't 27inches be pretty close to the eyes!  Well atleast my buddy who has crappy vision won't complain about the big screen size.  I just ogt off newegg.com ordering all the computer parts for the MAME computer.  I don't have any old computer parts to use.  When I start this weekend I will be putting in the project announcements section.  Yeah I reread the monitor shelf section in the book and it said you may want to add a tilt to the monitor.  About 15 degrees like I said for us taller folks.  If you aren' tall though folks might like the level tv view. 

One other thing guys you think it would be okay if I didn't use the overlay/plexi over my control panel.  I think it will look kind of weird with no art underneath, and  I am just going for a nice stained wood look.

[AtomSmasher]

One other thing guys you think it would be okay if I didn't use the overlay/plexi over my control panel.  I think it will look kind of weird with no art underneath, and  I am just going for a nice stained wood look.

Its a matter of preference.  If you are going with a stained wood look, then the plexi would probably look a bit odd.  Besides, lots of people here think that no arcade should have plexi on the control panel since none of the original arcade machines had plexi.