OK, I've been neglecting updates, but I haven't been neglecting the cab! I am nearly done with the painting and should have the main body of the cab assembled and ready to go in the next few days here, and have been slowly working on collecting everything I'll need for the CP.
The parts list so far looks something like:
Sitting in house, ready to go:
CPO
4 Competition joysticks
1 Super joystick (4 way)
Electric ICE-T trackball
Slikstik spinner
A bajillion assorted buttons
I-PAC 4
Optipac (which it seems I may not be needing for this project, but I'm sure I can find something fun to do with it)
2 LCD Top-Guns
Speakers (went with Creative 340-has the controls right up on the satellite speakers-I would have prefered 330s with the remote, I think, but they're becoming nearly impossible to find without ordering on-line and I'm impatient

)
4 player coin door is in house and will spend this weekend getting refurbished
Ordered and awaiting delivery:
4 coin mechs
200 Tokens
2 competition joysticks (decided to go with 2 sticks for player one/two rather than trying to line up 3/4 to allow for 2 stick games)
Wiring kit
Marquee retainer (now I just have to figure out what marquee I want >.<)
I decided that, with all the lovely humidity and insane heat we've been having here in Illinois lately, I would be better off working inside the house in the air conditioned basement than outside in that crap, so I brought everything in and draped plastic around a small back room of the basement to give me a place to work while still maintaining some level of dust control in the rest of the house. Another nice thing about that room is that there is a ceiling fan for the light in the room so I can use that to help with the drying process.

For the paint, I used something I haven't seen used before, Dutch Boy Dimensions Metalic, which I picked up at Menard's (I'd give links for it, but damned if I can't find anything on it out on the web, even on their home page). Basically you put down a basecoat (the color of which can be seen above) and then top it with a paint that has metalic flakes in it (either gold or silver, depending on the final color you are aiming for). It is basically impossible to get a smooth finish out of the top stuff, but that's actually a good thing-I love the textured look, and it's great for hiding surface imperfections. You can use a few different techniques for the final coat, brush strokes, sponging, rag or, the one I went with, rollering.
Basically I put down three layers of basecoat (since I built with MDF, I also used the basecoat as my primer coat), two layers of metalic (would have been one, but I noticed that they MADE THE WRONG COLOR when I first bought it (it was a gun metal blue-really nice, but not what I wanted) and since I already had some painted, I did all the pieces to prevent matching issues in the future and then my final coat I put the paint down and then twisted the roller across the surface. This left a great buffed metal effect that I think looks awesome. Am currently following it all up with an acrylic clear coat that's designed to work over latex-have two coats down, going for a third and final coat tomorrow.
Here you can see the swirl effect I'm talking about:

And here's a testimonial to the ability to cover surface imperfections-this is the area that I had to fill in with wood putty. Honestly, it was a less than perfect job, but the paint does wonders to hide it, it actually looks even better without the massive flash on it, and it's going to be shaded in a corner when I get it in place:

Same area shown from a couple of feet away-the area I repaired is in between those two streaks of light on the far side cause by the folds in the plastic:

A word on sanding-this was easily the worst part of the whole thing-that dust is BRUTAL. I had a fan blowing out an open window in the room I was working in and wore a mask every time I fired up the sander-do yourself a favor and do the same when you are working on this crap. I sanded after every layer of basecoat (220 grit) and the first two layers of (wrong color and right color) metallic. (400 grit) I tested sanding the final 'swirl' layer of metallic paint on one of the back pieces and...it looked like crap. So, I've dropped two coats of clear on top of it, and am going to sand down before I add the third and final coat, which should get rid of all the little bumps and extra bits of paint without ruining the swirl effect like a direct sanding did.
Here's the piece I sanded over the swirl coat, with a clear coat layer over it, not sure how well you can tell there, but the piece has lost quite a bit of it's luster compared to the other pieces, good thing this is the bottom half of the back panel!:
