Some Star Wars Yoke help, please?

[KMWS]

Anyone have any pictures of the Star Wars yoke from behind showing the triggers? I can only find pictures with the thumb buttons.

Not to mention that I can't recall if the backs of the grips looked exactly like the fronts, or if they had molding for the fingers or something.

I could also use some measurements for the yoke and grips as well. Menace's yoke looks great, but the measurements seem a bit off as it seems like it may be a bit shorter and stouter than the actual yoke.

If you're reading this Menace, please don't take that the wrong way, as you did a fantastic job and I will likely largely base my yoke on yours with some slight modifications.

I'm sadly still not really any closer to attempting my own cabinet anytime in the near future. It's the same two large problems as always, time and money.

Anyway, I may at least finally try building a stand alone Star Wars yoke. I've been gathering pictures and such, but finding pictures of the grips showing the triggers has been a problem.

By the way, can pretty much most gaming controllers be used for making a yoke, or does the Microsoft Sidewinder Dual Strike have something special about it other than already being mapped out?

This will be my first controller build, so yeah, I'm pretty much a newbie :p

[NoOne=NBA=]

The triggers are actual trigger-shaped pieces.
The Dual Strikes are used because they have two analog axes, use pots that are close enough to the 5k ones used on the Star Wars yokes (20k, IIRC), and have sufficient button support to allow easy hacking.

Other options are the A-pac from Ultimarc, and the AKI from DaveB on the boards here.
Both of those support multiple axis analog controls, and buttons.

You could also use an analog joystick for the hack, but the results with hacking 5k pots, in place of the 100k pots that are standard, my vary significantly.

I've got mine hooked to an AKI, and couldn't be happier with it.
I did that prior to the introduction of the A-pac, so I can't give a personal recommendation on that, other than to say that all of Andy's other products I have used have been top quality.

[KMWS]

The triggers are actual trigger-shaped pieces.

Okay, I'd still like a picture of them though, as I'd like to try and simulate them pretty closely if possible.

The Dual Strikes are used because they have two analog axes, use pots that are close enough to the 5k ones used on the Star Wars yokes (20k, IIRC), and have sufficient button support to allow easy hacking.

Okay, unfortunately I don't understand much about the pots and all the 5K, 20K, and 100K classifications.

You could also use an analog joystick for the hack, but the results with hacking 5k pots, in place of the 100k pots that are standard, my vary significantly.

I've got mine hooked to an AKI, and couldn't be happier with it.
I did that prior to the introduction of the A-pac, so I can't give a personal recommendation on that, other than to say that all of Andy's other products I have used have been top quality.

Okay, I'll give them a look as I try to get a better understanding of pots.

Thanks for the help.

Still looking for any rear grip pictures and yoke measurements that anyone out there can point me to

[GoPodular.com]

Pots = Potentiometers.

Just think of pots like a stereo knob.  You need a controller PCB that can handle the "volume range" of the pots in the yoke correctly.  I don't recall what the pot ratings are either, so if we use 5k for the yoke and 20k for the Dual Strike, and put it all together:

The yoke will only use 5k of the "allowed" 20k range.  At first you will only use 1/4 of the range allowed (5/20), but it will automagically correct itself when you calibrate it in windows.

If you used a 100k or 150k pot-equipped controller PCB, you'd only use 1/20 or less of the range allowed (5/100).  Windows may have trouble with the automagic stuff.  Too much of a difference in the ranges.

Note:  Audio pots are "tapered"  meaning the further you turn, the faster they move.  If you put audio pots on a controller it would move faster the further away from center you moved.  Not good.  "Linear" pots keep the same speed throughout their range of motion.  A little twist at the very top moves the same distance as a little twist near center.

1up has a great writeup on using the Dual Strike: "Analog Controls to Dual Strike USB hack" on the right-hand side

[KMWS]

Pots = Potentiometers.

Fortunately, someone had already told me that

Just think of pots like a stereo knob.

Good analogy.

You need a controller PCB that can handle the "volume range" of the pots in the yoke correctly.  I don't recall what the pot ratings are either, so if we use 5k for the yoke and 20k for the Dual Strike, and put it all together:

The yoke will only use 5k of the "allowed" 20k range.  At first you will only use 1/4 of the range allowed (5/20), but it will automagically correct itself when you calibrate it in windows.

If you used a 100k or 150k pot-equipped controller PCB, you'd only use 1/20 or less of the range allowed (5/100).  Windows may have trouble with the automagic stuff.  Too much of a difference in the ranges.

Audio pots are "tapered"  meaning the further you turn, the faster they move.  If you put audio pots on a controller it would move faster the further away from center you moved.  Not good.  "Linear" pots keep the same speed throughout their range of motion.  A little twist at the very top moves the same distance as a little twist near center.

That makes things a little bit clearer now. Thanks.

1up has a great writeup on using the Dual Strike: "Analog Controls to Dual Strike USB hack" on the right-hand side

Yup, I've been there. There is a shot of the Turbo Sub yoke from the side showing the triggers and grip shape, but I can't recall if the exact same grips are used on the Star Wars yoke.

I was curious about alternative controllers as I'd prefer something more readily available than the Sidewider, which I have to track down online (I prefer to get things at the stores when possible), a controller that is both PC and Mac compatible (my family and I have both, and I don't know if the Sidewinder would work on both), and finally I'd prefer gutting something a wee bit less expensive than the Sidewinder (if possible).

[Havok]

Sidewinders are still easy to get through ebay. I paid $5 shipped for mine. The Sidewinder was fairly unique in that it closely matches what a Star Wars yoke needs as far as an interface, so it is incredibly easy to mate the two together. I am not aware of another gamepad that has this close of a match.

I know you prefer to buy locally, but you really can't go wrong with Ultimarc, if you don't want to go the Sidewinder route - Andy will support you AFTER the sale, and his products seem to be of a very high caliber.

[lloydcom]

I'm currently building a mini yoke, about the size of a video cassette, and making it totally from scratch.  I'm using a mouse hack for tracking, and the initial tests are faster and more responsive than the joystick/Dual strike hack.  I'm having to do without gears with this option, and it might work for you.  Also the triggers are not microswitched, but membrane based so it will be quieter.

I also had problems finding good pictures, but the tutorial on this site on BYO star wars hack is an excellent source.

Good luck to you, and please post pictures of your project as I'm keen to see them.

[NoOne=NBA=]

None of them have the perfect side-on view you are looking for, but there are a bunch of pictures posted in THIS thread, in the B/S/T forum.

[MameMaster!]

....some of my photos may help.....

here's my Star Wars Module....

http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=29208.msg244528

EDIT I just looked the photos over again...and they may not help. If you're still stuck PM me and I'll take some close ups.

[KMWS]

Thanks for all the help so far everyone!

I'm currently building a mini yoke, about the size of a video cassette, and making it totally from scratch.  I'm using a mouse hack for tracking, and the initial tests are faster and more responsive than the joystick/Dual strike hack.  I'm having to do without gears with this option, and it might work for you.  Also the triggers are not microswitched, but membrane based so it will be quieter.

I had considered trying a mouse hack, and I may still look into it someday if I find the time to, but for now it's probably best for me to start a bit slower by more closely following Menace's 'how to' page.

I also had problems finding good pictures, but the tutorial on this site on BYO star wars hack is an excellent source.

Are you referring to Menace's and 1up's tutorials, or some other ones?

Good luck to you, and please post pictures of your project as I'm keen to see them.

I doubt mine will be anything spectacular, but I'm going to try and document my progress

None of them have the perfect side-on view you are looking for, but there are a bunch of pictures posted in THIS thread, in the B/S/T forum.

Wow! There ARE some fairly good shots showing the backs of the grip there!

Thanks!

[quote author=MameMaster

[Luigi]

I used the A-Pac for my selfmade yoke (modified Road Riot wheel with triggers) and it works great. Also you are free concerning the pots. You can use capacitors to connect to the different pot sizes so you don't have to change the pots.

[Silver]

You can use capacitors to connect to the different pot sizes so you don't have to change the pots.

Really? I thought Cap-Res circuits were used for time delays (amongst other things)? Shows you how much I know... How would you hook it up and what value capacitor would you use to knock a 100k pot down to 5k?

[Luigi]

Don't worry....concerning capacitors I'm one of the greatest lamers on earth 

But I think they are used to "compensate" different pot values at the pins of the IC.


As you can see here : http://www.ultimarc.com/a-pac.html

You can use a 10nF cap for 100K pots. There once was a little formula how to calculate for other pots but it seems they removed it.

You can see my little report here : http://www.retrooffensive.de/diverse/02/index.htm

Sorry, all in german but if you have any questions please ask.

[MameMaster!]

OK...I finally got off my butt and took a bunch of photos of the SW Yoke that some of you may find helpful.

I'll do a follow up post soon on the dimensions...but these photos may help some of you with your projects.

For reference, Happ Controls is now selling a set of handles that are obviously for using in a home built yoke if you're interested...follow this link---

http://www.happcontrols.com/joysticks/50250800.htm

[MameMaster!]

more

[MameMaster!]

Some dimensions---

Handle height-- 5"

Handle Depth-  2" at deepest point just under trigger
Top Part of Handle Depth (above trigger)-- 1.75
Bottom Part of Handle Depth (below trigger) -- 1.75

Handle Width-- 1"

Base (bottom of piece with Atari Logo) - 4 4/16 " wide
Height of of Atari cover- 5"
Width of cover with Atari Logo at the top- 4 3/16"

Size of area by Atari logo-- 4.25
Height of area by Atari logo-- 3 3/16"

I hope that's clear and helps someone out there!

[Kremmit]

Hey, MameMaster, you should add those pics and the measurements to the Wiki.

[KMWS]

[quote author=MameMaster

[dag2000]

[quote author=MameMaster