Do yourself a huge favor and spend a few hours reading the write-ups people have posted in the "Examples" section.
No doubt. I've gone over a couple hundred of these in the past year and a half. That, in addition to the "search" function has not only been enjoyable, but educational.
Here are a few pics of the CP. I used 5/8" plywood and 1/8" polycarbonate for an overlay. I'll use a slot cutter to mount the T-moulding to the front of the CP. The sides of the CP are contained within the sides of the cabinet, so no T-moulding is necessary there. The controls on the CP will be wired to a DB-25 connector that will in turn plug into a DB-25 connector on the cabinet, providing swappable panels.
You can see I've routed out the CP to make the trackball mounting plate flush with the top so I can put artwork and an overlay on it. I also top mounted the Ms. Pac / Galaga Reunion stick by cutting a hole for the base then routing out where the "lip" is. I freehanded the routing so you can see my handywork there. I figured it would be covered up by the art anyway so why make it perfect?
The controls are as follows:
TOP LEFT - Ms. Pac / Galaga Reunion for 4-way games
TOP RIGHT - OSCAR Vortex Spinner
BOTTOM RIGHT - Player 1 Happ Super 8-Way and 4 buttons
BOTTOM MIDDLE - Happ 3" trackball
BOTTOM LEFT - Player 1 Happ Super 8-Way and 4 buttons
You can see I chowed up the trackball mounting plate while trying to route the trackball hole in the polycarbonate. I'll be giving it a shot of black spraypaint for my own peace of mind, even though it shouldn't be visible because of the artwork. I sort of saw this coming before I started (there's a recent thread about this problem somewhere) but again, the thing is going to be covered up with artwork so I'm not losing any sleep over it. Unless it turns out looking like Poo Poo, then I'll lose a little sleep over it. The backup plan if that happens is to keep the polycarbonate overlay, cut a new CP, ditch the mounting plate all together, and just mount the trackball to the CP without it.