Author Topic: Sanyo 20 ezv help (Read 19160 times)

rfr341 · « **on:** May 08, 2006, 04:28:10 pm »

Hi I was wondering if anyone knows where I can find a flowchart for a sanyo 20ezv. The monitor on the game wasn't working when I bought it but you can hear the game sounds when it is turned on. I replaced the CAPS hoping that it would solve the dead monitor problem but with no luck. I don't hear the high pitched whining sound from the monitor when it is turned on and there is no glow from the neck of the tube. Also R609 get hot really quick when power is turned on.

Kevin Mullins · « **Reply #1 on:** May 08, 2006, 05:12:37 pm »

Check TP91 to see if has about 108v. (with brightness turned up)
Check Q901 and Q902. (TR901 and TR902)

Might also be the flyback.
Run through everything else first.

rfr341 · « **Reply #2 on:** May 08, 2006, 10:16:52 pm »

I checked TP91 and I was not getting any power to it, I am not sure if I have plugged in the wires to there proper places because when I got the game everything was basically unplugged on the board so i don't know if that is why I don't seem to be getting any voltage reading from TP91.

Hiub1 · « **Reply #3 on:** May 08, 2006, 10:27:26 pm »

Are you plugging it into the right isolation transformer? As far as I know, all of these monitors are 100v, which is not the norm. Have you checked all the fuses?

rfr341 · « **Reply #4 on:** May 09, 2006, 12:57:56 am »

I thinking I am plugging it into the right isolation tranformer, which one should it be plugged into? The wiring was a bit of a mess when I got the game, most of the wires were unplugged. I have checked all the fuses and they are all good.

Kevin Mullins · « **Reply #5 on:** May 09, 2006, 10:20:22 am »

These are 100v monitors...... defineately.
The transformer setup depends on what you have in the cabinet now.
Some transformers are voltage stepdown AND isolation, some are individually setup.
Nintendo cabs had some "game kits" that might have changed what it originally had.

Do you have a snap-shot of the bottom of the cabinet?
What was/is the game?
Is it original to the cabinet?

You might be able to follow yours something like this (typical):

Monitor - Isolation transformer - Stepdown transformer - wall plug

The isolation transformer will be a smaller squared tin can looking jobby with three prongs on one side and two on the other.
The monitor should be wired to the two pronged side.

I'm guessing without seeing what you actually have in the cab.

Check your voltage connecting to the monitor.
Do all this BEFORE going any further with this thing or WILL fail miserably.
(I did that once)

Note:
Check R609 to see if it is cracked or meters open. (0 resistance)

Kevin Mullins · « **Reply #6 on:** May 09, 2006, 10:56:21 am »

Sorry . . . I just described the isolation transformer to look like an EMI filter.

Ignore that description.

You should still be able to follow the monitor power leads back to a "transformer" of sorts.

Let us know what you have in there.

rfr341 · « **Reply #7 on:** May 09, 2006, 07:37:53 pm »

I checked the voltage to the monitor and it is good. I took a look at R609 and noticed that it has a crack in its side, could that be the cause of my problems and why the resistor is getting so hot very quickly.

Kevin Mullins · « **Reply #8 on:** May 09, 2006, 07:44:58 pm »

A crack is common in the ceramic part due to heat and vibration, etc.
But you need to ohm it and see if it is open. Should be 180ohm.
(since you said you had no power at TP91)

It should get hot.... but not abnormally hot.
(it's a 20watt resistor)

Have you had a chance to check Q901 and Q902?
These are just a start. Then go from there.

I'm trying to remember what all died on mine way back when.
It was a mess.
(still needs a flyback)

rfr341 · « **Reply #9 on:** May 09, 2006, 09:28:55 pm »

Thanks Kevin for all your help.

I did check R609 with my multi meter and the number that came up was 12, but I don't know if I tested it properly. When I touched R609 it was very hot, when I touched it I had to pull my hand away because it was so hot. How should I check R609 with my multi meter, where do I touch with the multi meter leads and should power be on or off. I still have to check Q901 and Q902, should I check them with power on or off and am I checking for the ohms reading on them. Another question I have is looking at the schematics it shows on the signal circuit board a 3 pin connection at AB which is suppose to connect to the main board and I think it says to connect to AZ but I can't find any 3 pin connection on the main board with that marking.Do you think I should just replace the Flyback and the HOT to be on the safe side?

rfr341 · « **Reply #10 on:** May 09, 2006, 10:21:12 pm »

I just took a look at the board again and it looks like the fly back is melted a bit on the top and there is a small hole in the top of it, could that be a reason that no power is getting to the tube?

Kevin Mullins · « **Reply #11 on:** May 09, 2006, 10:48:18 pm »

Hey . . . . that sounds like mine . . . . what da ya know.

Yes, that isn't a good thing.
You may need to get that flyback afterall.

Run through the rest of this just to check things out.
(since I had it wrote up already when you posted that message about the flyback)

Do any OHM testing with power off.

So check R609 with power off.
Touch one lead to each end of the resistor.
Black on one end, red on the other end.
Setting your meter depends on the meter itself.
Like mine (cheapy) has a 200 ohm setting, so I would use it.
You should see about 180ohm or so.
You can pull the .3A fuse (F301) to eliminate some eronious readings from the power supply section while you check it if you want.

But if it is still getting HOT.... then I bet it's still good or at least not "open". (broken, or burnt out)

That three pin connection from the signal board (AB) should have a three pin connector with only one wire going to it from "AS" on the main board.
Look at the very top of the schematic.
Off to the left you'll see the "red, green, blue, etc " from the signal board.
Follow the very top curcuit line to the right and you will find the "AS" point. (R232 or something)
Part of the color DRIVE curcuit. (16v DC) (you might need that)

Now.... while you have your meter handy... do a voltage test on that R609 on the end nearest the fuse or you can do it on the fuse itself. (F301) .3A
This is DC . . . . you should have about 130 v. . . . DC
(power on)

To check the Q901 and Q902:
POWER OFF
Use the DIODE setting.
Read through this a bit to get the idea of checking these transistors / diodes, etc.
http://www.elexp.com/t_test.htm

What you don't want for sure is a dead short (.000) between any of the pins / legs.
If you find one....reverse the leads on those two pins / legs and verify the short.
(not good) (bad) (junk) (throw away)

Just remember..... POWER ON only if you are checking for VOLTAGE.
Otherwise you might cook your meter. (been there before too)

Ok, let's start with all that for now...
I might even have to break out my heap of a Sanyo and play with it again. (it got cooked pretty good)

rfr341 · « **Reply #12 on:** May 09, 2006, 11:53:30 pm »

Thanks Kevin I really appreciate all your help. I will check all that stuff tommorrow.

rfr341 · « **Reply #13 on:** May 10, 2006, 05:43:33 pm »

Well I did all the tests you told me to try and these are the numbers I got. I tested R609 with power off and got a ohms reading of about 178 ohms so that resistor seems to be good. I also checked R609 with power on and got a voltage reading of about 120vdc. I checked Q901 and Q902 and they seem good I don't get and readings of .000. I also rechecked testpoint TP91 and I got a reading of 3vdc, so I am not getting power to that point which makes me think that my flyback transformer is dead. Also Kevin I could not find AS on the main board and one more thing, I have a yellow wire and a black wire coming off the power 12A on the power box but I am not sure where it goes because it was not plugged in when I got it. It has a 3 pin female connector on it but I can't find where it goes and there doesn't seem to be a 3 pin male connection that matches it. Any idea what that is for?

Kevin Mullins · « **Reply #14 on:** May 12, 2006, 09:46:42 am »

I'm kinda checking into a few things on mine as well now.... so bear with me.
I dug it out to look for that AS and couldn't find it either. I'll dig around somemore on it.
It should be the power supply for the signal board. ( I think )
Does that yellow and black wire (3 pin) come from the main power supply or a switching power supply?
12A (amp) or 12V (volt)?
See if it goes to the marquee light or anything like that.......
I'll take a peek in my Nintendo cab when I get a chance to and see what's left of the original stuff in it. (it's a JAMMA cab now)

TP91 should defineately have 108v or so..... and this is what feeds the rest of the board if I'm thinking correct. Which makes me think you may still have a transistor problem as well.
(of course the flyback still doesn't sound healthy either)

I'll poke around some more and let ya know what I can find.

rfr341 · « **Reply #15 on:** May 12, 2006, 08:51:25 pm »

I went to work on it again today with no new results. I have ordered a new flyback transformer and horizontal ouput transistor for it so those should be here hopefully late next week. Still don't know where the yellow and black wire go because the marquee lights up and the wires are connected to the 12 volt on the switching power supply. No power at TP91 and when I try to get a power reading at the fuses I don't get anything. Not sure what else to try until the replacement flyback arrives. If there is anyhting you can think of let me know please. Thanks again Kevin for all your help.

Kevin Mullins · « **Reply #16 on:** May 12, 2006, 09:35:09 pm »

So you have no power at the .3A fuse now ??
No power there means no power anywhere else on the chassis.
But I thought you had 120vdc at the resistor R609......which is after ther power supplly fuse.
hmmmm.....
I meant to ask earlier what cabinet all this was in?
What game?
Is it an original cabinet (Nintendo or something) and PCB's?
I was just curious so I could dig through what paperwork I might have handy and look for schematics that might help some of the mystery wire questions.
Like I have a manual they used for converting original Nintendo cabs into the vs. type , etc. (which is where my Sanyo 20EZ came from)
Anyways.... I'll keep track of your progress and see what else I might be able to come up with.

Hiub1 · « **Reply #17 on:** May 13, 2006, 10:46:32 am »

I've got the whole manual in PDF, but it's too big to attach. Shoot me an email at fholgado at gmail dot com, and I'll send it to yas.

rfr341 · « **Reply #18 on:** May 13, 2006, 01:52:01 pm »

I went out and checked the fuses again using both of my multi meters, I am getting about 104v at the main fuse and I am gettng power at the .3A fuse. Sorry about that my one meter couldn't measure that low so I tried my other meter and the .3A is fine. The game that is in the cabinet is Blockout and I couldn't tell you if it is a original nintendo cabinet. The cabinet is grey, has a speaker in the front below the control panel and it has 2 joysicks with each stick having a button on top and then there are 2 regulard buttons for each controller on the control panel. When I bought it I was told it was a nintendo cabinet. What does the vs. type look like? Maybe it is a nintendo cabinet that has coverted into the vs. type. Also there is no high voltage power coming from the flyback to the tube because I don't even have to discharge the monitor when I take it all apart, nt once has there been any power reaching the tube. That's what i got for you now. Until later

rfr341 · « **Reply #19 on:** May 13, 2006, 05:20:25 pm »

I turns out it is a nintendo cabinet, I guess I should pay more attention to the outside of the game also. When I was out in the garage I noticed on the back of the cabinet that there is 2 metal plates with nintendo written on them, when the game was made and all the voltage stuff. I feel so

not noticing it earlier.

Kevin Mullins · « **Reply #20 on:** May 15, 2006, 11:05:51 am »

Ha ha.... how ironic....
My Nintendo cab was the first cab I ever got.
And I had to figure it all out the hard way.

(according to some misc. paper work I recieved with it in the cab)
1. Mine is a red R-type that was possibly a "Popeye" originally.
2. Then converted to a Nintendo vs. "Hogans Alley" system.
3. Then converted to JAMMA.
And.... when I got it....... it also had "Blockout" in it.

Note: This is also where my Sanyo 20EZ came from.

The biggest change is in the power supply and the wire harness.
So I can see where your wire troubles are coming from.

By the way ...That game actually requires three regular buttons AND the joystick button to play properly.
(you mentioned you only had two regular buttons)(?)
It's actually a fairly challenging 3D version of tetris if you get to play it.

Does your control panel have this print and layout ?
http://images.webmagic.com/klov.com/images/10/1065235213.jpg
This is the standard "vs." control panel.

I'm not sure what the grey cabinets originally were. I know I've seen them though.

None the less.... you have a Nintendo cab that should be JAMMA now.

Hiub1 · « **Reply #21 on:** May 15, 2006, 11:40:30 am »

Do you have any original parts in that R-Type? I am restoring one of my own, and I am looking for a nice CP of some sorts. I also just figured out the pinouts of the audio amp on the Sanyo monitor, if you guys want, I will post them.

Kevin Mullins · « **Reply #22 on:** May 15, 2006, 11:59:23 am »

The only things left original in mine is the 100v transformer, outlet box, marquee light and the power switch.
Mine has a modified (extra buttons) "vs." CP ....which is in use on it.

I wouldn't mind the audio pinout.
Even if I just decide to use the little amp on another project.

Hiub1 · « **Reply #23 on:** May 15, 2006, 02:00:43 pm »

When I get home I'll post em. I ended up using a CD ROM audio cable that goes from the back of the CD to the motherboard. I had to move one pin as the pinout on the monitor is 3 pins, while the CD audio one is 4 and it has pins like this

|'|'| |'|

So you gotta move them so they are all together.

Also, make sure that when you are testing this, the volume on the board is all the way up! I tested this for 20 minutes thinking that it HAD to work, but nothing happened cuz the damn volume was turned down. The volume knob by the way is the first one of the knobs that are on the back of the pcb, right under the brightness pot.

rfr341 · « **Reply #24 on:** May 16, 2006, 12:01:47 am »

My control panle does have the same lay out as the link you sent me, the only diffrence is that my joysticks have a button on the top of them. As for that cabinet I am planning to take Blockout out of the cabinet and use it for something else. I did notice that some of the grey paint is scratched off and there is a light blue color underneath which makes me think it use to be donkey kong or maybe popeye. So now I am waiting for the new flyback

to arrive so I can throw it in and see if that helps. I will keep you posted on how my adventures with the sanyo ezv are going. Thanks again for all your help Kevin.

rfr341 · « **Reply #25 on:** May 24, 2006, 07:59:28 pm »

Good news I finally got the replacement flyback and horizontal output transistor and now my monitor works

The only thing is sometimes when I turn the game on I get arcing from the flyback to the metal chassis of the monitor board, what could be causing this? Is this a ground problem?

Kevin Mullins · « **Reply #26 on:** May 24, 2006, 11:34:42 pm »

Definately check all grounds. One on the neck board as well. (single, usually black wire I think)
And double check that the "new" flyback isn't cracked where it's arcing from.
(just to be certain anyways)

Glad to hear it's at least fired up for ya..... woo hoo.....

rfr341 · « **Reply #27 on:** May 25, 2006, 12:52:38 am »

Thanks for all your help Kevin.I will check all the grounds and it is arcing from the L metal rod looking part on the flyback on to the metal frame of the chassis.

rfr341 · « **Reply #28 on:** May 26, 2006, 12:01:27 am »

Good news the flyback is not arcing anymore, I read one of Ken Laytons response to someone else regarding arcing flybacks and he said to cover the cracks on the casing with silicone which I did and now no arcing.

Now I just have to figure some wiring because I am not getting a picture on the screen just lines, but I can see some letters faintly on the screen from the game so I am thinking I have not connected the wires properly because when I got the game everyhting basically was unplugged. If anyone has any ideas I am alla ears. Thanks for everyones help.

Kevin Mullins · « **Reply #29 on:** May 26, 2006, 03:37:35 pm »

Check to make sure the sync is wired correct for the Sanyo monitor.
And you are still going through the inverter board right?
This may give some color issues and such.

Or maybe just try and adjust the horizontal (sync) a bit.

Is there still cab wiring issues you are trying to work on?
Your cab has basically been converted to JAMMA now right? (Blockout)

rfr341 · « **Reply #30 on:** May 27, 2006, 09:14:05 am »

Hey Kevin, I am still going through the inverter board should I not be? Yeah the cabinet has been converted to a JAMMA cabinet because it has Blockout in it, do I still need to use the inverter board ? The only wiring issue I am having is I can't find the pin on the main chasis to connect the wire that is suppose to come from the AB pins on the inverter board. The first time it worked there was a picture which I think was for making monitor adjustments because it had bars that were moving up and down, like something you see when testing the monitor but since then I haven't seen that.

Kevin Mullins · « **Reply #31 on:** May 27, 2006, 03:22:11 pm »

I don't recognize that "test" screen you described. But I haven't looked to see if my Blockout has that test screen option yet either. (test switch and such)

Have you been able to get a game picture to come up yet?

Here's a description of the "inverter" and how it's used, and also some conversion information you may be interested in if you plan to use this mainly for the JAMMA games like what's in there now.
It would eliminate that inveter board all together.
http://www.mikesarcade.com/cgi-bin/spies.cgi?action=url&type=info&page=vidinvrt.txt

I "think" that missing AB line (16VDC) on the inverter board is only neccisary if you are using the "INVERT OUT" connector to the monitor chassis. (by following the schematic anyways) Which you may need for that particular JAMMA setup. (??)
http://technical-department.servegame.com/monitor_schematic_diagrams/nintendo_video_inverter.jpg
Mine never had it all hooked up correctly for the Sanyo monitor, so I'm still looking into that question as well. (it was a botched conversion also)
And I have a different monitor in mine now.......

Kevin Mullins · « **Reply #32 on:** May 27, 2006, 07:11:09 pm »

OK .... I think I have this little 16VDC bugger figured out.
But you will have to "find" a 16vdc power sourse from the monitor chassis.
Why there isn't an actual AS spot on yours OR mine , I don't know.
But I've traced the curcuit out and I believe you can ADD the 16vdc line that you will need to power the invereter board and use the INVERTED OUT connector.

I will try and scan MY schematic and post it. (better than most I've found)
And also take a snap shot of where to get the 16vdc from on the chassis.
But you will need to CHECK this voltage first before actually using it to make sure I'm right. (unless someone else out there can point it out for us)
My chassis is dead....period.... so I can't check the voltage to be sure.

rfr341 · « **Reply #33 on:** May 28, 2006, 12:14:31 am »

Well I adjusted the horizontal sync and guess what I got a picture on the screen.

I can get a picture using the inverter board and without. Now the only 2 problems I have are the colors are very dull no matter how much I adjust them and they can seem black and white they are so dull. Also I am getting white bars running across the screen horizontally (west to east), now I don't know if these are what are called jail bars but I have put in a new cap kit so wouldn't that have prevented this? But it sure does feel good to actually have a picture on the screen. Now to just fix the 2 other problems.....

Kevin Mullins · « **Reply #34 on:** May 28, 2006, 12:50:43 am »

Cool deal . . . almost there then. . . . got picture !!

But now is where I think you'll NEED the inveter board to work for you.
You say you got it to show picture with or without it....
Was the cable between the inverter and chassis on the NON-INVERTED connector of the inveter board?
If so, then in all essence it's the same video signal as if you plugged straight into the monitor chassis. (I'll explain later)

I'm almost certain that you need to have the game PCB signal going to the INPUT of the inverter board and the output of the inverter board from the INVERTED connector going to the monitor chassis.
But in order for it to work you will need the 16VDC power to the little 3 pin AB connector on the inverter board. (actually just one of the pins) If you look at the traces on the 3 pin connector you'll notice that two of them are actually joined together and the other one goes to ground.
So you could apply the 16VDC to either of the two pins that are together.
Leave the ground one alone, it'll get that from the video signal connection.
I'll try and show you with a pic by tomorrow where you could possibly get the power from the chassis itself.

Or in the meantime you COULD try "at least" getting +12VDC straight from the switching power supply in the cabinet. This should shows signs of it at least functioning.

rfr341 · « **Reply #35 on:** May 28, 2006, 02:23:10 am »

Kevin you are a guineas!

I ran the wires like you said to and from the inverter board. Then if you recall a few days ago I mentioned that there was a yellow wire and a black wire coming from the 12 vdc from the switching power supply with a 3 pin female connector. I took a closer look at in and like you said 2 of the wires were joined and the black was ground so I plugged the 2 joined wires into 2 of the 3 pins on the male connector on the inverter board and left the black(ground) unplugged, fired up the monitor and I have color!!!

Do you think the 16vdc will make it even better? If you could still let me know where I could find that off the main chassis that would be cool. The only other issue to deal with is the monitor is a horizontal mount and there are thin lines about an inch appart running horizontally across the screen. Sometimes you can't see them when the game is playing because the color hides them, what do you think is the cause of this. When I play with the vertical adjustment these lines move a bit but if I adjust to much the screen gets scrambled so I have to adjust back to get back to a picture. Any ideas? Thanks Kevin you have been a huge help to me with this monitor

Kevin Mullins · « **Reply #36 on:** May 28, 2006, 02:39:33 am »

Aha !! Now that explains why I couldn't find that yellow and black set of wires in my cabinet...... they were never there to begin with.

The thin horizontal lines sounds like you need to turn the SCREEN voltage down a tad bit on the flyback itself.
One should be labeled SCREEN and the other FOCUS.

This is where you need to do some overall adjustments of the colors , brighness, etc.
You should be well on your way now.

Keep us informed on how it's going.... I'm super curious now.

rfr341 · « **Reply #37 on:** May 28, 2006, 01:43:57 pm »

Just giving an update on how it is going. Went out this morning and played with the adjusments and it is looking good. I basically have managed to get rid of the retrace lines the only time you can seem them is when the screen is black, I will even try to fine tune it a bit more later today. The colors are looking good, they are bright but maybe I was expecting to much because I heard that these monitors have bright colors especially after a new cap kit is put in but maybe the monitor is just old or I need to play with the color controls a bit more. Just curious if having 16vdc going to the inverter board instead of the 12vdc I have now would help with the colors, or maybe I am just getting to greedy and should be happy with what I have.

None the less I will keep you posted if I can get it looking any better and I want to thank everyone who helped me out and I would especially like to thank Kevin Mullins for his wealth of info which allowed me to get this monitor up and running.

Kevin Mullins · « **Reply #38 on:** May 28, 2006, 02:33:20 pm »

Try this to adjust for those retrace lines......

Unplug the signal input to the inverter board so that there's no game input.
Turn it on and adjust the SCREEN on the flyback up until you start to see it turn white.
Now turn it back down until it just turns a good solid black.
Leave that one there.
Then plug the video signal back in and start adjust the brightness, contrast, etc.

The colors may need both bias and drive adjusting on the neckboard.
I'm curious as to the difference with the 16VDC myself and will post here sometime today where I think it should come from. But you'll have to measure it to be sure.

Oh..... and thanks for the great comments.
I just like to help out if I can. (it's a hobby)

Hiub1 · « **Reply #39 on:** May 28, 2006, 04:21:12 pm »

I had the same problem with the colors a bit. It is all in the adjustment. Once you fine tune that, it should look goooood. I need to do a cap kit on mine because I am getting some nasty jail bars, other than that, I absolutely love the monitor. I also just got a 29'' multi-sync monitor for $70! I have that in my fighter cab now and it looks AWESOME! The older games do look a bit weird since every pixel is so big, I almost get vertigo playing robotron on this thing! Good to hear everything is going well though.


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