Using a metal hole saw on aluminum

[mccoy178]

I want to use a 1 3/16" metal hole saw to cut my holes in my cp that has the artwork attached.  I have an industrial size drill press at my disposal, so with that said, do you guys see any issue with using this method?  I will be installing translucent leaf switches, thus the slightly larger hole size.  Will jumping around occur?  I don't see how it would be that great, but thought I would ask first.  The overlay isn't cheap.

[TOK]

I think the heat would be a bigger problem for the overlay. I think I would use a metal punch to do this... Not sure if thats the correct name. They're the things where you drill a small pilot hole and attach the two cutting sides with a bolt. When the bolt is tightened it cuts the metal.

We use them to cut the external sheet metal on our work vans to route wires. Makes very clean holes and doesn't burn the paint.

[Minwah]

I second the hole punch, they work great.

[mccoy178]

Good point.  The biggest problem I have seen with those is finding the right size.  I'll put some effort into it today. 

[Ken Layton]

Yes, a Greenlee brand "knockout punch" (a.k.a. "chassis" punch) would be a choice in your application. If you were to use a hole saw on aluminum, the aluminum would quickly clog the hole saw teeth. You should use cutting oil on aluminum anyway, but the cutting oil would get underneath the overlay of yours and ruin the adheisive.

Go to Home Depot in the electrical section and buy a Greenlee knockout punch for 3/4" electrical conduit. It will punch the correct hole for game buttons.

[mccoy178]

I thought I needed a little bigger hole for leaf switches?

[mccoy178]

I have just seen through using the search tab(amazing huh?), that the only reason 1 3/16th holes are needed is due to the little triangle tabs on the bottom side of leaf switch buttons.  I also read that one of the members used a hobby knife to cut those out, so I'm going to give it a shot.  I also attempted to fit one of the leaf switches into a hole on my old microswitch control panel and it went in snuggly.  I plan to make a full tutorial on this once I have the products in hand.

BTW, does anyone know what size greenlee punch is needed for the trackball?(I measured 3 1/8th myself).  I don't know what size greenlee punch that would be.

[u_rebelscum]

BTW, does anyone know what size greenlee punch is needed for the trackball?(I measured 3 1/8th myself).  I don't know what size greenlee punch that would be.

Which TB do you have?  Almost all 3" TBs need a 3" hole.  AFAIK, only Happ's HighBall model is different, and needs a 2.25" hole.

Happs links: normal TB dimensions and HighBall dimensions

[telengard]

Hi there,

My control panel modules are aluminum and I haven't had any issues w/ it although I do not have artwork on the modules (yet).  It actually cuts pretty clean and easily and I'm using a handheld drill w/ hold saw.  It is MUCH better than what I had previously which was plate steel.  Yikes   

I'm surprised that it's aluminum and not steel.  My original control panel was steel.

~telengard

[mccoy178]

I just made a little tutorial on how I made my holes.  They were a hair too small for the leaf switches.

[quarterback]

I just made a little tutorial on how I made my holes.  They were a hair too small for the leaf switches.

Exactly!  In your previous search you must not have found my "Battle Royale Thread" where the masses kept trying to convince me that my leafs were going to fit into 1-1/8" holes even though it was clear they were not.

For those who are interested, you can start with this post and read the back and forth..  I finally had to contact Knievel via a PM and beg him to post in my thread since people didn't seem to believe me that it takes a 1-3/16" hole for leaf buttons to be installed in a metal CP, not 1-1/8"