Can I build a cabinet using only a Router?

[AceTKK]

Hi guys.  I have caught MAME fever and am dreaming of my own cabinet.  However, I am a poor college student with no tools of my own except for a power drill.  I was wondering if I can do all the cutting necessary to build my cabinet out of mdf using only a router?  This would save me the expense of buying a circular saw, jig-saw, etc.  Can a router do it all?

Thanks,

-Ace-

[SirPoonga]

Yeah, it is possible.  Most of my cabinet is done witha  router.  For long cuts you need a good long straight edge.

[BombProofPlane]

no a jigsaw can do it all

maybe you should consider a conversion

[AceTKK]

a jigsaw can't cut the groove for t-molding.  I'd like to get away with buying only one power tool if I can.  Also, converting a cabinet is not really an option b/c I plan to use a 27" t.v. which I already own.  I can't afford any cabinets with working 27" monitors included.

-Ace-

[Zinfari]

A router can do it all and pretty well at that if you have a nice 8 ft straight edge (for cutting down MDF or plywood).  That and a couple of clamps along with the drill you already own should work fine.  You just need to be creative.  As a side note though a good strait bit can cost you as much as a cheap jigjaw (black and decker makes one that sells for about $35 I think)..... food for thought.

-Zinfari

[Xphile]

just an fyi, MDF will dull your flush/trim router bit (or any router bit for that matter) faster than any substance on the planet (exageration, but not by much..:-) if you use you straight bit to cut through the middle of the mdf, you'll be effectively cutting three times (or more) the material you would if you  used a jigsaw to get it cut to approx the right size and just finished it with the router..  try and get to a local pawn shop, they usually have cheap power tools ($15 jigsaws are common at the one local to me) and grab one for your rough cuts.. (don't even think of cutting through a sheet of mdf with a 1/4 " shank straight bit if you decide to do it anyways, use a 1/2" shank), the chatter and digs into the material will make you wish you taken  a jigsaw/skillsaw to it first..  

If you do it enough times,  you may even hoop your routers motor bearing if you bulldoze down the middle of a sheet of MDF at high speed..

all in all, beg, borrow, or buy a used jigsaw to get within 1/8th to 1/16th of your line..then make it nice with the flush trim bit..:-)

[crsdawg]

most home improvement store(lowes, home depot....) that sell lumber, also have a cutting service that can get most of your straight cuts done before you even bring the wood home. at the stores near me the fist 2 cuts are free and 50 cents per cut after. not a bad deal and quite handy if you don't  have a big vehicle to haul the wood home. i use this all the time, and i have a tablesaw. it's very convenient.
  your still gonna need some way to do the more intricate cuts. the $15 jigsaw and a decent router will work fine(or $15 router and a decent jig, imho a better combo). check your local pawn shops or garage sales, and don't forget to haggle.  i really wouldn't recommend using a router for all the cuts it would be very difficult, even for someone who has a lot of wood working experience, to get everthing to look right. not to mention it'll take a year to clean up all the dust your gonna create. sure it's possible, but there's a reason nobody does it that way.
  keep in mind this is going to be something your going to enjoy for a long time, it'll be worth the extra few bucks to do it right. if you half ass it now, you will end up with a half ass product and probably end up doing it again.

[Jungle]

I cut the sides of my cabinet from a 4x8 sheet of ply using a router, but not for a lack of having other tools at my disposal.  I made a template from 1/4" fiberboard using a circular saw and jig saw.  I then clamped that to the plywood for my router to follow.  I didn't have any problems with a 1/4" shank straight bit, but I did take 4 passes to get through 3/4" plywood.  

My primary reason for using the router and templates was to prevent making mistakes in $50 a sheet plywood.

So, I suppose that if you were making only straight cuts you could do it with only a router.  I would invest in a good straight edge, though.  You can get one for like $15 that spans 8'.  In my case, I had a radius on my corners that made it easier to use a template.

[eightbit]

A huge advantage to the router is that you can cut one side and then use it as a template for the other side and have 2 identical sides. Thats not an easy task to do with a cheap jigsaw. I have a shop full of tools and very rarely do I ever use the jigsaw, its just not accurate enough.

A router is one of the most versatle tools in a woodshop.

[Larry Smith]

A router is the most importantand can do it all, but a jigsaw and a circular saw can make things easier. I think a circular saw is probably more usefull than a jigsaw.
If you can't find or don't want to buy used tools, there are some good buys on ebay.
I was able to get a 2HP router and some bits new off of ebay cheaper than a 1HP router from home depot. Having said that I wouldn't rush out and buy a circular saw or jigsaw just yet wait till you NEED it if your on a tight budget. It's hard to anticipate all the expenses and tools needed in building/converting a cabinet. I rushed out and got a jigsaw I COULD have done without (it did help and I have it for next time) and later bought a dremel I never anticipated needing.

[Xiaou2]

 A tablesaw is the best... and also, you can usually resell them at nearly the price you paid for them.

  But, If you want to use a router... I suggest either getting a Rotozip - or - a rotozip bit that fits into your router.

  I found a larger size rotozip bit for mine... and it cuts thru MDF  like hot butter!



   

[eightbit]

 A tablesaw is the best... and also, you can usually resell them at nearly the price you paid for them.

  But, If you want to use a router... I suggest either getting a Rotozip - or - a rotozip bit that fits into your router.

  I found a larger size rotozip bit for mine... and it cuts thru MDF  like hot butter!  

TS is the first large tool you should buy for a shop setup but I doubt that a college student has that kind of money or space.

I was thinking rotozip would be a great tool for cutting, but can it cut the t-slot reasonable well?

[Frostillicus]

There's this thing for the rotozip:http://www.rotozip.com/attachments/plungerouter.phtml
is this just allowing it to go straight up and down?

[str1der]

Not to get to far off topic but what do you guys think of these Rotozips? Are they worth it? Are there any downsides to them?

[Xiaou2]

  Most rotozip bits are very small in comparsion to routerbits.   However, there was that one lager rotozip bit... so there must be some sort of collette adapter for it.  Unless that was for a specific rotozip tool.

  I think youd have a real hard time using a rotozip as a dedicated router without a stablizer and depth adjust.   But if your not looking for accuracy, you might be able to get away with it.

 

[Frostillicus]

Not to get to far off topic but what do you guys think of these Rotozips? Are they worth it? Are there any downsides to them?

I have the rotozip revolution - its the heavy-duty one, I think they are getting cheaper.  It cuts just about everything - I got it mainly for cutting lexan and it's ended up doing a lot.  I especially like the grinding wheels it came with.  Plus you can get some decent accessories for it.  If I can find some good bits then I'm gonna try to use it as a router, too.  

[eightbit]

  Most rotozip bits are very small in comparsion to routerbits.   However, there was that one lager rotozip bit... so there must be some sort of collette adapter for it.  Unless that was for a specific rotozip tool.

  I think youd have a real hard time using a rotozip as a dedicated router without a stablizer and depth adjust.   But if your not looking for accuracy, you might be able to get away with it.

The make a router base adapter for the rotozip. Makes depth adjustment and balancing it easy.

[BombProofPlane]

the rotozip ripoff that sears makes is great it even comes with a router base and it only  60 bucks and it works with rotozip bits

[Xphile]

A huge advantage to the router is that you can cut one side and then use it as a template for the other side and have 2 identical sides. Thats not an easy task to do with a cheap jigsaw. I have a shop full of tools and very rarely do I ever use the jigsaw, its just not accurate enough.

A router is one of the most versatle tools in a woodshop.

yes, but the point is, you don't want to be augering out mdf with a router.  (someone mentioned doing it with plywood..3/4 plywood is butter compared to high grade MDF .. and besides, the amount of dust he would create cutting a half inch swath through MDF would make him or his landlords cry when it comes time to clean up..)  
Make a template, draw it on the mdf, cut around the  lines with a jig saw (or use a skilsaw if you have one for straight cuts and jigsaw only the round corners) -you want to use the jig/skil saw to get your cut as close to the line as possible (within 1/8th inch, ideally)  and  since you can't do round corners with a skilsaw or a table saw -to use the fewest tools- a second hand jigsaw followed by a flush/trim  with a router on the side panel tacked to the side jig he makes is his best bet...  in the end he can do whatever the hell he wants, but you have to agree that a rough cut followed by using the router with flush/trim bit for it's intended purpose will make the cleanest possible edge without damageing the bit, router, or both. Sure, I've pushed bits through mdf when I was first starting out and in a hurry, I've also felt and heard main router bearings get seriously hooped when I did it one too many times..

I don't wanna sound like snaake here, but I personally go through at least a lift of plum creek MDF2 every week at work, have done so for the last eight years (well, used 'Ranger' board first), and I darn sure know how to make nicely finished,detailed product out of it .

[1UP]

You can get a decent Ryobi router for much less than a rotozip, and buy all the bits you need for building a cab with the difference in price.

[Wienerdog]

Here is my opinion.

1.  Jigsaw
2.  Router
3.  flush trim bit
4.  T-Molding slot cutter
5.  Drill
6.  Drill bits
7.  Phillips Screw driver

I'm going to stop there.  Xphile really said it all.  If you try to plow through your MDF, you will dull your router bit.  You can buy a cheap jigsaw for less than an OK router bit.  The jigsaw is really not involved in many finished cuts, but as Xphile said, you use it to get within 1/8" or 1/16" of your template.  Buy a $15 jigsaw if you have too, check at Walmart and Target for clearance items.  

You don't want to risk messing up a $25 piece of wood by miscutting your wood with a router.  You don't want to break or dull a $15 router bit or burn out your router.  To make a straight cut on a 3/4" piece of MDF, you would need to make at least 4 passes to do it safely (I would probably do it in .  

It makes me depressed to hear someone talking about doing this project with just a router.  I remember all of the things that go wrong when I tried to cut corners like this (because of cost).  

[Wienerdog]

Here is the best suggestion yet.  You are a poor college student.  If that is true, check at your college.  You can either get (free) or rent (small cost) time in your colleges workshop and have more tools than you know what to do with.  Check that out and let us know.

[Wienerdog]

I can't stop thinking of some guy/girl making a cab with just a router...  Try here for possibly cheap tools:  http://www.harborfreight.com/

Here are some discount codes:
061-723-858 is for free shipping no minimum order, expires 7/1/2003

35233-0RVD is for free attache case + $5 off $29.99 min purchase expires 5/1/2003

you may have to order by phone to active these.
800-423-2567.

another: 453-261-518 is for free attache case + $5 off, $29.99 min purchase expires 5/1/2003

another: 855-642-634 is for $5 off $29.99 min purchase expires 5/1/2003

another: 947-383-551 is for free attache case + $5 off + free shipping, $39.99 min purchase expires 5/1/2003

another: FS 477-863-355 is for free shipping no minimum, expires 5/1/2003

Those codes were pull from the FW Hot Deals forum (careful, almost as addictive as MAME.) http://www.fatwallet.com/forums/messageview.cfm?catid=18&threadid=144902&highlight_key=y&keyword1=harbor

[Brax]

I'd love to build my cabinet with just a router!


a CNC Router.

[AceTKK]

Wow,  I turn my attention elsewhere for a couple of days and this thread blows up!  Thanks to everyone for their input.  There are lots of good suggestions being offered, so here's what I've decided.  

1.  I will not use the router for the primary cuts.  Since jig-saws are so cheap (who knew?) that is definately the way to go for the rough cutting.  I really don't want to go about this project half-a$$ed because the cabinet will be with me for a long, long time.  

2.  I will definately explore the option of using the wood shop at my school.  I was under the impression that I would have to register for a class (waste of $) in order to get access to the shop.  Maybe I could work out a small "gift" to the shop teacher in exchange for his looking the other way for a few hours a week :-)  They've got all the good  toys; table saws, planer, nice drill press, and the clamps (oh my the clamps!).  

3.  Thanks for the tips Wienerdog!  I'm a recovering fat-wallet addict myself so I haven't been keeping an eye on the forums.  I really would like to start building up my own tool collection as money allows so I'll keep those coupons handy.

-Ace-

[Wienerdog]

You sound like you know what your talking about (if you know what a planer is and we didn't have to explain the difference between a jigsaw and a scroll saw...).  The advantage of being a college student is that sometimes your tuition and student fees go to pay for stuff that you don't know about.  Every school is different, but I'm pretty sure there is usually some kind of "open shop" time for students.  Someone can correct me if I'm wrong.  Even if someone is not a student, check at your local community college.  Usually you can pay a small fee to use the tools if your taxes are helping to pay for the community college fees.  I imagine that "outsiders" would have to pay alot more.

I wish I was "recovering", but I am a full blown addict.  I'm waiting on about $1500 in rebates.  Don't feel bad for me though, I probably have $1750 worth of computer stuff, while I only paid $1250, and I'm getting back $1500 in rebates.  For those of you that don't know, that is how the FatWallet "Hot Deals" forum works.  

[Xphile]

<snip>I wish I was "recovering", but I am a full blown addict.  I'm waiting on about $1500 in rebates.  Don't feel bad for me though, I probably have $1750 worth of computer stuff, while I only paid $1250, and I'm getting back $1500 in rebates.  For those of you that don't know, that is how the FatWallet "Hot Deals" forum works.  

I must've got lost here...do you mean to tell me that you are essentially being paid $250 to take $1750 worth of computer stuff off their hands?


they can't possibly make that back in interest on your cash tied up in rebates, (can they?)

[1UP]

Ah, I missed that you were using MDF...  But if you use melamine, you can do almost all your cutting with just a router and a circular saw (also cheap.)  Use the circular for your straight/beveled cuts, and router for cutting out the side panels and pocket cutting (coin doo opening).

I tried a jigsaw and it tends to really chip up the finish on melamine, so I at least finished most of the cuts with a router or a power plane, either of which give a very clean finish for laminates.

[Brax]

If you're going to buy a jig saw, i'd suggest spending only a few dollars more and get a circular saw. the blade flex on a jig saw can be pretty bad for long straight cuts, especially if you need to make 2 of the same thing!. Buy a circular saw and use a stright edge and you can make it perfect. Between that and the router you're all set.

[Wienerdog]

the blade flex on a jig saw can be pretty bad for long straight cuts, especially if you need to make 2 of the same thing!

You make a good point.  I really like to use a template for everything.  First, cut out your pattern on 1/4" fiberboard as a template.  Use the template with a flush trim router bit on the final wood.  Before you make a pass with the router, make a rough cut with a jigsaw around the template so that you are only cutting 1/8" to 1/16" with the router.  Basically, you are cutting away most of the waste with the jigsaw (cheap blades) and making the final smooth cut with the router flush trim bit (relatively expensive bit).

The blade flex on a jigsaw is important, I'm glad you brought it up.  If you are using the flush trim bit, then you'll be fine on the straight cuts.  There is a problem with curved cuts though.  When you cut a circle in 3/4" wood, the blade will flex and the radius of the circle on top of the wood willl be larger that the radius on the bottom (the blade will drag in the 3/4" of wood instead of cutting the 3/4" at a 90

[Wienerdog]

I must've got lost here...do you mean to tell me that you are essentially being paid $250 to take $1750 worth of computer stuff off their hands?


they can't possibly make that back in interest on your cash tied up in rebates, (can they?

I don't want to get to far into rebate theory, but no, they don't make money on me and interest is never a consideration for them.

The real good deals usually combine multiple  coupons, pricematch matches, and rebates.  When I bought Turbotax this year, I ended up buying TurboTax, Quicken, two virus scan software packs, some SPAM killer software, a scanner, and a 48x CD burner.  My order was over $300 with sale prices.  After rebates and coupon codes, I think I made about $25.  I sold my 32x burner for about $25 on eBay, so I came out $50 ahead with a new burner, spare scanner, and needed tax software.  

Another set of orders was for a Wireless router, wireless PC card (laptop), and a wireless USB adapter.  Retail on them comes to about $300.  I paid about $250 upfront, immediately pricematched that down to about $152, then sent in $125 in rebates.  Final cost was about $27.  

FW is a good place to track down normal computer hardware that you need.

[Wienerdog]

Ah, I missed that you were using MDF...  But if you use melamine, you can do almost all your cutting with just a router and a circular saw (also cheap.)  Use the circular for your straight/beveled cuts, and router for cutting out the side panels and pocket cutting (coin doo opening).

I tried a jigsaw and it tends to really chip up the finish on melamine, so I at least finished most of the cuts with a router or a power plane, either of which give a very clean finish for laminates.

1UP-I've visited your site probably 15 of the last 21 days.  Yesterday I read on your site that you mostly used a router, I couldn't beleive it.  You did a great job, so I guess that is proof that you CAN get by with a minimal set of tools.  Your cab, your site, and your willingness to help the rest of us out is awsome.!

All- About using a router for typical saw cuts...  Use a spiral bit instead of a straight bit, here is a link to a downcut bit (note, you should decide between upcut and downcut):
http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/tg/stores/detail/-/hi/B00004T7K3/qid=1046592743/sr=2-2/ref=sr_2_2/102-3056513-0163321    

I only link to Amazon because it was easy to find the bit, shop anywhere you want (or check for a discount code on FatWallet ).

"Ideal for furniture and cabinet shops, these double flute bits quickly slice through hard or soft wood, plywood and composites such as MDF or particle board. Unlike straight-flute bits, some portion of the spiral bit's cutting edge is continuously in contact with the workpiece, producing smoother cutting action and smoother results. Downcut bits don't clear chips quite as quickly as the upcut bits, but their downward-spiraling action actually helps hold the workpiece in place. The downcut bit is best for finish work, as the upcut may leave a slightly frayed edge."

[eightbit]

The downcut bit is best for finish work, as the upcut may leave a slightly frayed edge."

Your always going to have one side with a frayed edge with a spiral cut bit. Down cut is going to leave the slightly frayed edge on the bottom.

Router is an excellent tool. Many people choose to use a router even when they have all the tools available.

[PoDunkMoFo]

I once built a cabinet with a box of toothpicks ,a pack of bubblicuos, and a shoestring!  

[eightbit]

I once built a cabinet with a box of toothpicks ,a pack of bubblicuos, and a shoestring!  

No duct tape?