Router bits burning

[hypernova]

I've read a bit of threads, but am a bit confused.

I'm trying to rout out a 1/4" of plywood off my cp, and I've used the two straight bits I had access to.  Both bits have burned/blackened in the section where they were cutting.  They were both steel colored.  I assume this means they weren't exactly top quality?

Assuming I'm routing out a 5x5 sq. in. section, how long should it take?  Two minutes?  Four?  Six?  Longer?  I need to know, since I've never used a router, so I really have no idea on how fast is too fast.

[Fozzy The Bear]

Two things cause router bits to burn out like that....

1) Excessive rotational speed.  Solution: slow the router down.
2) Excessive cut speed. Solution: take shallower cuts and dont force it.

You should also check that the router is set to turn in the right direction and that you are moving the router in the direction that brings the wood towards the cutting edge and not in the opposite direction.

Best Regards,
Julian (Fozzy The Bear)

[Lilwolf]

what should you do if you don't have a speed control?  Just go slower?

[GoPodular.com]

Yep.  Go slower.  But not so slow you burn the material.

[struby]

or you could just sand the edge, paint over it, or put trim over it.

[SirPeale]

or you could just sand the edge, paint over it, or put trim over it.

He's not doing T-molding.

[hypernova]

Correct.  I'm routing out areas for my reunions on the top, and my other joys and leaf switches on the bottom.  Lots of area to cover with a router.  Still haven't gotten an answer to either query I posed.

[struby]

you can sand or dremel anything a router can cut.

[nostrebor]

I've read a bit of threads, but am a bit confused.

I'm trying to rout out a 1/4" of plywood off my cp, and I've used the two straight bits I had access to.  Both bits have burned/blackened in the section where they were cutting.  They were both steel colored.  I assume this means they weren't exactly top quality?

Assuming I'm routing out a 5x5 sq. in. section, how long should it take?  Two minutes?  Four?  Six?  Longer?  I need to know, since I've never used a router, so I really have no idea on how fast is too fast.

A pic would really help but based on your description I would guess that you are trying to take too much material at once, and going way to slow. I could route out a 5x5 area with a straight bit in about 30 seconds or less, especially if using a guide or template. I would take it in 1/8" deep setups. Do the whole thing 1/8" deep, reset to 1/4", then do the whole thing again.

Hope this helps.

[struby]

And also steel doesn't equal bad router bit, but most quality blades are diamond tipped I think, and are rather expensive as well.

[Brax]

Steel coloured? That is poor quality, no doubt about it. I'd be so bold as to say you'll never cut a good cut from that type of bit. You want CARBIDE tipped bits. Nothing less. My first router came with the bits you're describing and they're nothing but trouble. Buy yourself some decent quality bits and you'll never look back.

5"x5" section that's only a 1/4" deep? That's nothing. It'll take a minute or 2 with a good bit.

[Xam]

I'm not a routing expert by any means...but I do know a dull blade will cause wood to burn. (on a circular saw for example). Are the bits new? It could just be a dull bit.

Xam

[hypernova]

Got some new carbide bits.  I started burning the one I was using ever so slightly, but realized what was causing it was just going straight through the wood.  (Yesterday, I was making an outline of the area, then going inside to finish the rest.)  I found if I started in one of my button/joy holes, and worked outward in a spiral type fashion, trimming away, the bit wouldn't burn.  Eventually I got it all.  Another factor may have been that I made sure to move the router in the correct direction.  Thanks all.

[bb040]

use nothing but a quaity carbide tip bit ....they last longer and are less pron to burnning up like you done

[RayB]

According to the manual on mine, going TOO SLOW will cause burning, cuz the bit stays in place too long and heats up the wood.

It's better to do several strokes until you've routed everything you wanted away, than trying to do it all in one shot.

[DrewKaree]

I've never really determined yet whether you are talking about burning the BIT, or burning the WOOD.  Who else here has determined that as well?

What kind of wood are you routing?

Lastly, there are more than 2 things that can cause you to burn the WOOD that have nothing to do with the speed of either the rotation OR cutting speed.  Since nobody asked him, I will now.

Was that bit new, or was it used, and do you have a picture to show it to us?  If you've used it before, and haven't cleaned it, crap from your last cut or material could heat up and cause the burning of THE WOOD.


Ask some more questions, wouldja fellas?

[divemaster127]

Where is a good place to order router bits, I know I have seen this posted before but i cannot find
thanks
dm

[DrewKaree]

Rockler, MCLS, Woodsmith....google CMT or Freud router bits.  If a place carries them, that's generally a good place to buy router bits from.

[divemaster127]

thanks  for the info i appreciate it
dm

[hypernova]

Ahh, I figured I was explicit, but looking back, it can be a little confusing.

I was talking about the bits themselves.  I'd take pictures, but it's a whole process I don't like doing on a whim.  Picture, save to pc, open and resave to make smaller, upload to space, post on board.  Meh.

I can give you an exact description though.  Think of a steel router bit, with the bottom 1/4" blackened, exactly like a far overdone steak.  Just completely black.

For plain old generic router bits, Home Depot or Lowe's will do you fine.  Finding the less available styles, you'll need to get that www thingy going on your pc.  I got my 1/16" slot cutter at www.cheyennesales.com.  Decent prices.  Shippings a little high, but not obscene, so that's pretty normal anymore.  Plan on getting some large quantities to sell some slot cutters for t-molding, divemaster?  Probably a good idea!

[DrewKaree]

Ahh, I figured I was explicit, but looking back, it can be a little confusing.

I can give you an exact description though.  Think of a steel router bit, with the bottom 1/4" blackened, exactly like a far overdone steak.  Just completely black.

Without being able to see the bit, I can only guess from your description that you were using a cheap high speed steel bit (HSS).  Oftentimes, unlike carbide bits, there is no cutting part on the bottom of the bit.  While it may look like it SHOULD cut, it's not DESIGNED to be a cutting edge.  If you notice, on a carbide bit, there will be a chunk of carbide tooled into a cutting edge on the bottom of the bit for this very purpose. 

Also, the bottom edge of a HSS bit is a flat piece of metal, even if it will cut, the entire bottom of that bit is running on your material, heating the entire bottom of the bit up.  It may work, but it's not the ideal bit for what you're trying to do.  As someone stated above, carbide bits are a far better choice.

You've also got to take into account your material you're using.  If you were doing solid wood, you probably wouldn't have as big a problem.  MDF has binders to keep all the fibers together, heating them up is simply going to add more friction to the bit (which is why they dull HSS bits so much quicker), and plywood, like what you said you were using, has individual sheets glued together.  Perhaps you were taking just enough off to hit that glue layer, and were heating that glue up, causing that nice heat buildup, or something similar.  Many different things coulda caused your issue.

If you were using HSS bits, which it sounds like you were, then simply throw it away and buy a new one.  There's DEFINITELY many reasons they're cheaper than carbide bits, and you happened to find out one of them.  It may or may not affect the actual use of your bit, I couldn't tell you without looking at or seeing the bit, but if you had a carbide bit, you could have your bit resharpened and you'd be back in business.  With a HSS bit, it's more than likely not meant to be sharpened, and you'll end up spending MORE on them to replace them compared to the life of a carbide bit, but that's an individual choice you'll have to make.