Author Topic: TRON Stick Handles (Read 17530 times)

Fozzy The Bear · « **on:** February 17, 2006, 03:31:55 am »

Can anybody help with a source for TRON Joystick handles.... Just looking for the plastic clam shell handle parts, not the entire stick.

I know there were some similar translucent blue ones posted about a week ago, but they they're not visually 100% TRON Shape....

I'm not worried if they're not 100% TRON internally as I can work on that, and I'm also not worried if they're black, red, blue or yellow with purple spots or even non translucent either. Because I'm planning to cast new ones from them in a tough Polyvinyl Resin. Just as long as they are externally 100% TRON shaped handles.

I know that Happs do an almost TRON stick as a complete unit, but they're very expensive for what they are and I'd rather just get hold of the clam shell handle parts and do some hacking myself.

All help and advice appreciated.

Or alternatively, if anybody has a set of original TRON clam shell handles that they're prepared to lend me for a couple of weeks, I can pull a silicone rubber mold off them and reproduce numerous sets from that for anybody who wants them.

Best Regards,
Julian (Fozzy The Bear)

Flinkly · « **Reply #1 on:** February 17, 2006, 04:11:05 am »

uh, just buy the shell from happs, or ponyboy. you don't have to buy the whole joystick.

Fozzy The Bear · « **Reply #2 on:** February 17, 2006, 04:25:17 am »

I've had a look and now been back to Happs and had a look again.... But I can't see the plastic shells for the TRON Sticks listed anywhere as a separate item. They do have the left and right yoke grips listed, but I can't see the TRON ones.... Do you have a link for those please??

Best Regards,
Julian (Fozzy The Bear)

CheffoJeffo · « **Reply #3 on:** February 17, 2006, 06:57:16 am »

I don't have any, but I would certainly buy pretty blue repros.

Cheers.

Fozzy The Bear · « **Reply #4 on:** February 17, 2006, 07:04:08 am »

That's the general idea.... I want a pair of them, but once I've made the molds to create them I might as well offer them to the group as well.

I'll also be keeping the cost down to time and materials only. So they should work out to be very affordable.

The advantage with Polyvinyl Resin is not only that they're very tough when finished but that it's actually a water clear resin that can have translucent pigments added to it. So Original Blue is very possible, as is any other colour.... Never know somebody might want red ones to match their cab or purple ones or etc etc etc...

So if anybody can help out with these.... either a loan of an original set to copy, or have some they would like to sell, or can point me to a source for them at a sensible price then please yell up.

Best Regards,
Julian (Fozzy The Bear)

CheffoJeffo · « **Reply #5 on:** February 17, 2006, 07:05:56 am »

Well, if I come across a set, you'll be the first to know.

Cheers.

grueinthebox · « **Reply #6 on:** February 17, 2006, 08:30:57 am »

Quote from: Fozzy The Bear on February 17, 2006, 04:25:17 am

I've had a look and now been back to Happs and had a look again.... But I can't see the plastic shells for the TRON Sticks listed anywhere as a separate item.

Go to the joysticks and look at the exploded view for the part numbers... You want 96-2527-00 and 96-2526-00 for the two plastic clamshell pieces. If you want the trigger as well, that would be 96-2528-00.

http://www.happcontrols.com/joysticks/50997000x.htm

Chances are, PonyBoy can get them for you - just PM him the part numbers.

Let me know when you get up and running with the molds - I need a replacement translucent red handle for my Satan's Hollow restore.

Fozzy The Bear · « **Reply #7 on:** February 17, 2006, 09:06:39 am »

Quote from: grueinthebox on February 17, 2006, 08:30:57 am

Let me know when you get up and running with the molds - I need a replacement translucent red handle for my Satan's Hollow restore.

Thanks! I'll be sure to post to the forum so that everybody knows when they're available.

Best Regards,
Julian (Fozzy The Bear)

Teebor · « **Reply #8 on:** February 17, 2006, 09:24:16 am »

Just out of interest would you consider sending any to the UK when you make them up?

Tiger-Heli · « **Reply #9 on:** February 17, 2006, 10:24:35 am »

1-Up did this previously - http://1uparcade.robandmitsue.com/projects-tronsticks.html

He got his from Tom at SpecialtyPlastics - http://members.aol.com/specialtyplastic/ http://members.aol.com/specialtyplastic/tronhandles.jpg

I don't think Tom is selling them any longer, but some of the info in those links might help you out.

muzland · « **Reply #10 on:** February 17, 2006, 02:05:20 pm »

Hi Fozzy,

Sounds like a groovy project. Perhaps you will share your molding techniques with us so we can see how it is done.

I am after some Star Wars yoke handles myself as this is the only bit I can't do myself. Knowing how to mold these would open up new possibilites.

Good Luck!

Muzland

johnvv · « **Reply #11 on:** February 17, 2006, 07:28:32 pm »

Fozzy:

I have a couple original Tron joystick handles and a set of the repros that were done last year by Specialty Plastics. I don't now anything about molding, but I expect the trick will be to match the original color and luminescence under black light. If you are not looking to do true Tron repros, then only the form is an issue.

I have not seen the current Happ part, mentioned about, but note that both the original and repros stick do have a slight texture over the entire stick. I'm thinking the Happ sticks might be smooth outside the handle/grip area.

The original trigger pieces are red and are common to all the Midway game sticks.

Fozzy The Bear · « **Reply #12 on:** February 17, 2006, 08:20:51 pm »

Quote from: Teebor on February 17, 2006, 09:24:16 am

Just out of interest would you consider sending any to the UK when you make them up?

Yes! I'm in the UK so no problem..... I'd be happy to post them worldwide in any case.

Quote from: Tiger-Heli on February 17, 2006, 10:24:35 am

I don't think Tom is selling them any longer, but some of the info in those links might help you out.

Thanks I'll take a look!

Quote from: muzland on February 17, 2006, 02:05:20 pm

Sounds like a groovy project. Perhaps you will share your molding techniques with us so we can see how it is done.

I am after some Star Wars yoke handles myself as this is the only bit I can't do myself. Knowing how to mold these would open up new possibilites.

I'll write a tutorial up for doing it as I go along with it, and take some photographs if it helps people... Maybe Saint will host the tutorial when I get it done.

Quote from: johnvv on February 17, 2006, 07:28:32 pm

Fozzy:

I have a couple original Tron joystick handles and a set of the repros that were done last year by Specialty Plastics. I don't now anything about molding, but I expect the trick will be to match the original color and luminescence under black light. If you are not looking to do true Tron repros, then only the form is an issue.

I have not seen the current Happ part, mentioned about, but note that both the original and repros stick do have a slight texture over the entire stick. I'm thinking the Happ sticks might be smooth outside the handle/grip area.

The original trigger pieces are red and are common to all the Midway game sticks.

Thanks for the information....Taking a silicone rubber mold will actually capture the original surface detail very well indeed. I'm glad you mentioned it, because if I bought the Happs ones and they didn't have that detail the finished items would be wrong.

The colour should be no problem as long as I have an original reference.

If you feel like you wouldn't mind lending me a set for a couple of weeks then I could pull the moulds quite quickly and without any damage to the original items. I'd be very happy to pay the postage costs both ways.

............................................

It does seem like there is a fair amount of interest in these.... If I can keep the cost low then it might be worth doing a propper run of them.

Best Regards,
Julian (Fozzy The Bear)

PoDunkMoFo · « **Reply #13 on:** February 17, 2006, 08:22:20 pm »

Quote from: muzland on February 17, 2006, 02:05:20 pm

I am after some Star Wars yoke handles myself.....

Not sure if this matters to you or not but Star Wars yoke handles are cast aluminum.

CheffoJeffo · « **Reply #14 on:** February 17, 2006, 08:26:24 pm »

Quote from: Tiger-Heli on February 17, 2006, 10:24:35 am

He got his from Tom at SpecialtyPlastics - http://members.aol.com/specialtyplastic/ http://members.aol.com/specialtyplastic/tronhandles.jpg

I don't think Tom is selling them any longer, but some of the info in those links might help you out.

Correct ... I e-mailed Tom (again) just last week. No joy (pun intended).

muzland · « **Reply #15 on:** February 18, 2006, 05:07:50 am »

Thanks PoDunkMoFo,

Quote

Not sure if this matters to you or not but Star Wars yoke handles are cast aluminum.

I was not aware they were aluminium. Plastic would be ok for the one I plan on making as I have no way of machining aluminium. If Fozzy's mold idea is good I will probably have a bash at this and see what the results turn out like. It would be repro but so will the rest as I will be building from scratch. Genuine Yokes are like rocking horse ---steaming pile of meadow muffin--- and when they do come up they go for a small fortune. I'm on a budget with this so it's out of my league. After all it is only for a few games (important ones though

). Like Fozzy if I get the mold working I would gladly do a run to supply handles to people on here. If the whole Yoke build goes good I may even start supplying these as well.

The other thing I am planning on making is my spinner. I have managed to aquire a job lot of bust hard drives so I am going to give this a go as soon as the rest of my cab is up and running. It will be a mouse hack.

Trackball I have is an old pc serial device (with ps2 converter) but it has a 2 1/4" ball so is not too bad size wise. Does not roll as freely as an arcade one so I will have to go to work with the WD40. Only paid

Fozzy The Bear · « **Reply #16 on:** February 18, 2006, 06:35:41 am »

Quote from: muzland on February 18, 2006, 05:07:50 am

As you can see I am trying to do things cheaply but also I will get a lot of personal satisfaction out of making something myself. I am not good at these things so it gives me a challenge to see if I can pull it off to a good standard.

That's the whole point of this community Muzland.... You go for it! I'll post a few pointers where to look later today for mold making information.

Best Regards,
Julian (Fozzy The Bear)

Tiger-Heli · « **Reply #17 on:** February 18, 2006, 10:44:14 am »

Quote from: muzland on February 18, 2006, 05:07:50 am

If the whole Yoke build goes good I may even start supplying these as well.

That would be popular if you can pull it off.

FWIW, Gamecab was working on this, but I don't know what the current status is: http://www.gamecab.com/yoke.htm

Fozzy The Bear · « **Reply #18 on:** February 19, 2006, 08:11:20 am »

Quote from: Tiger-Heli on February 18, 2006, 10:44:14 am

FWIW, Gamecab was working on this, but I don't know what the current status is: http://www.gamecab.com/yoke.htm

I don't think anybody knows what his current status is..... Almost everything on his site reads as: Discontinued... either that or: Out Of Stock....

It looks very like he's out of business on this stuff.

Best Regards,
Julian (Fozzy The Bear)

muzland · « **Reply #19 on:** February 19, 2006, 11:12:49 am »

Nice one Fozzy,

Look forward to the molding info.

Quote from: Tiger-Heli on February 18, 2006, 10:44:14 am

Quote from: muzland on February 18, 2006, 05:07:50 am
If the whole Yoke build goes good I may even start supplying these as well.
That would be popular if you can pull it off.

FWIW, Gamecab was working on this, but I don't know what the current status is: http://www.gamecab.com/yoke.htm

Wow! This looks great and is a proper engineered piece of work. Mine will be made from 1/2" MDF

as I have plenty of this knocking around after the control panel build. I took a look inside my PC steering wheel the other day and the guts of this could be modified to work I reckon. The other options I have is the dual strike hack. One of the things I don't know about the yoke is what the authetic feel is like. It is ages since I played one of these in an arcade.

PS. Powered up my cab with all of the guts inside for the first time today. It all seems to work

. I now need to wire my network patch panels up to the sidewinder hacks and I could then actually play some games

.Still some work needed to tart it all up though. The speakers don't look quite right perched on top of the cab

Regards
Muzland

Xiaou2 · « **Reply #20 on:** February 19, 2006, 07:19:10 pm »

I believe the new2 guy had trouble as the molds are expensive and they only last for so many casts before having to be remade.

I would like a few sets if the price is reasonable.

Muzland, better use a stronger wood for your controller. MDF is good for things like cabinets.. but under stresses it falls appart very easily. In a starwars controller, it surely wouldnt last long.

Fozzy The Bear · « **Reply #21 on:** February 19, 2006, 09:56:10 pm »

Quote from: Xiaou2 on February 19, 2006, 07:19:10 pm

I believe the new2 guy had trouble as the molds are expensive and they only last for so many casts before having to be remade.

I would like a few sets if the price is reasonable.

Actually, making the molds and the cost of them is not too bad for me. I live in an area where there's a lot of Surfing... I mean real surfing not internet surfing... So fibreglass and resins and mold rubbers are reasonable round here because there's a lot of surf board and boat manufacture here.

Yes Silicone rubber molds do deteriorate, but you can usually pull at least 50 casts out of them if you treat them carefully. In any case, I'd make a master to pull additional molds from, becuase the material that I'd be casting these in has quite a long setting time, and it'd make sense to be casting more than one at once.

Costs, as I said will be restricted solely to time and materials, I'm not interested in profiting from it. So you can be sure that you'll get them at a sensible figure.

Best Regards,
Julian (Fozzy The Bear)

Brax · « **Reply #22 on:** February 21, 2006, 12:24:27 pm »

You have a pm.

MinerAl · « **Reply #23 on:** February 21, 2006, 03:12:18 pm »

In the past this has been discussed and the problem, even with perfectly cast repros, is that you still need to hack them to get them attached to a modern joystick, or you need the original Tron stick mechanism to attach the repro to.

My dream (I have a dream today) would be to have Tron stick handles cast with the outside a perfect repro, but the inside of the stick (internal supports/structure etc.) would be made to solidly attach to a 1cm OD steel or aluminum pipe which would fit down into modern joystick mechanisms, like a super or a competition or a 49-way.

The other tricks to a useful modern Tron stick are the false-4way action and the rotation. There are a number of suggested solutions for this.

I'm looking very forward to the developments in this thread!

Count me in as soon as you're taking orders

Al

Flinkly · « **Reply #24 on:** February 21, 2006, 05:46:23 pm »

i can attest to the happ sticks as having the same detail on the outside as the original tron joysticks. at least all the ones i've seen. it doesn't make sense for them to make two different flavors of the same joystick, although as we all know, different colors is easy.

as for a repro joystick, i think it would be easier and more cost effective to make a stick that mated the repro handle to a kind of joystick, rather than match the handle to a pipe to a joystick. check out the page about 1ups try at mating handles to the 49-way and others. although he didn't sell many, they worked.

Xiaou2 · « **Reply #25 on:** February 22, 2006, 03:06:18 am »

Well, the key is not that they worked.. but how WELL they worked. Most joystick bases are made of lightweight plastic.. and is not meant to handle the stresses of a heavy metal shaft like those seen on the tron sticks. The added leverage from the extra height also plays a problem.

The plastic will bow and flex, and may misregister a direction (or eventually break the swiitches) ... and the spacers will wear very quickly from the added weight and abuse.

Theres good reason why the original arcade sticks were made of heavy metal bases with hard rubber bumpers to absorb the forces.

Making orignal mounting method is the better way. If someone wants to use them with original joys... they will be able to. If others want to hack a stick.. they can shave a different shaft down to fit...or make their own shaft.

Fozzy The Bear · « **Reply #26 on:** February 22, 2006, 08:27:00 am »

Quote from: Xiaou2 on February 22, 2006, 03:06:18 am

Making orignal mounting method is the better way. If someone wants to use them with original joys... they will be able to. If others want to hack a stick.. they can shave a different shaft down to fit...or make their own shaft.

I think the answer here is to cast them in two different flavours.....
1) Exactly as the originals
2) With a completely solid section at the bottom end, that you can drill yourself to fit whatever stick shaft you're going to use.

It's not impossible to do this, and only requires a slight modification in the mold. So I'll produce two different masters and two different molds and then people will have the choice of which one they want.

Best Regards,
Julian (Fozzy The Bear)

MinerAl · « **Reply #27 on:** February 22, 2006, 11:44:53 am »

Quote from: Xiaou2 on February 22, 2006, 03:06:18 am

Most joystick bases are made of lightweight plastic.. and is not meant to handle the stresses of a heavy metal shaft like those seen on the tron sticks. The added leverage from the extra height also plays a problem.

The plastic will bow and flex, and may misregister a direction (or eventually break the swiitches) ... and the spacers will wear very quickly from the added weight and abuse.

Theres good reason why the original arcade sticks were made of heavy metal bases with hard rubber bumpers to absorb the forces.

Making orignal mounting method is the better way. If someone wants to use them with original joys... they will be able to. If others want to hack a stick.. they can shave a different shaft down to fit...or make their own shaft.

I agree to a certain extent. If I were interested in a dedicated Tron machine that I was going to put on a route and have drunken-spastic-teenage-monkeys yanking on it regularly, then there is no question that the original Tron mechanism would be required.

However, I like playing Tron but not enough for a dedicated machine, so I would like a stick on my multi-game control panel that will make that and other trigger stick games easier. I do not intend to allow drunken-spastic-teenage-monkeys to play my machine, so I'm not concerned that I will exert so much more force with a Tron length stick than I do with my 4 inch bat-tops (there's the whole issue of the strength of the hollow plastic handle and the hollow thin walled shaft there too...) that I will shatter my Super's mechanism.

The real issue for me on my home machine is under-panel real estate. The Tron mechanisms are HUGE in all three dimensions. It's quite a commitment to have one in your panel. A Super with a Tron top takes as much room as a super with a bat top under the panel.

Quote from: Fozzy The Bear on February 22, 2006, 08:27:00 am

2) With a completely solid section at the bottom end, that you can drill yourself to fit whatever stick shaft you're going to use.

Excellent. That is fantastic news. Perhaps instead of a solid block, you could simply do some solid (meet in the middle) struts. The areas inside what I circled on 1up's picture below are what I'm calling struts. They are now crescent shaped (pic 2) to fit the original Tron shaft, but could be made to meet (pic 3) instead. Then we could adjust our shafts accordingly.

Fozzy The Bear · « **Reply #28 on:** February 22, 2006, 02:44:52 pm »

Quote from: MinerAl on February 22, 2006, 11:44:53 am

Perhaps instead of a solid block, you could simply do some solid (meet in the middle) struts. The areas inside what I circled on 1up's picture below are what I'm calling struts.

To be honest I think they're too thin walled at that point anyway.... It may be possible to beef those struts up a bit as well... I'll have a look at it when I have the sticks to copy, and see what works best.

Even on a near 100% repro stick I think they should be a bit heavier there. That's not the strongest part of the design. I did once see one broken quite badly at the point where it contacts the shaft.

Best Regards,
Julian (Fozzy The Bear)

MinerAl · « **Reply #29 on:** February 22, 2006, 07:11:54 pm »

Man I hope this works out... I'm getting all excited about custom tron handles

Are you planning to mold the trigger assembly as well? Seems like there could be some improvement on the way the trigger actuates the switch, but there's no point in re-inventing the wheel I guess.

Let me know if there's anything I can do to help. I have some ideas...

Al

CheffoJeffo · « **Reply #30 on:** February 22, 2006, 07:27:40 pm »

While I certainly appreciate the desires of those who want to reengineer and come up with a decent way to mount a big Tron handle on a smaller stick, my preference (indeed, all I am interested in) is for a true repro (and I would want at least 2, possibly more).

I'm not trying to disrespect MinerAl's dream in anyway (although I do believe that the big handle requires a bigger base, or at least a metal base), just wanting my voice to be heard amongst the excitement.

Thanks to Fozzy for even considering it ... anything I can do, just ask.

Cheers.

EDIT: And if you did a set of translucent red, I'd take 2 sets as well.

Xiaou2 · « **Reply #31 on:** February 23, 2006, 03:12:28 am »

Miner Al,

No matter how 'light' you play, the additional weight and leverage will amplify the forces. And since the sticks are not designed to handle that.. it "WILL" wear the stick quickly - and or break it immediatly. Replace your super every month?

I have a Spy Hunter standup, and I tell you what... the Wheel assembly is built like
a tank. Its got Huge metal arms with monster rubber bumpers. You can slam the thing as hard as you can, and not come anywhere near to bending the internals.

The thing is, its not just designed like that for the abuse... The game REQUIRES you to 'slam' the wheel HARD AND FAST in order to bump the indestructable cars off the road. If you try to bump them slow.. the bump will not be enough, and they may even manage to push you instead.

Remember also that since the stick will weight more... you need a heavier spring to keep it centered... otherwise it will be sloppy and not always center. And then add a heavier spring... coupled with the extra weight... and now it takes more strength to Move the stick in any direction. So, you use more force.. and that force coupled with your extra leverage.. and the weight.. = damage force.

This dosnt even consider the frenzied quick jerk reaction you will encounter in the heat of battle.

I sympathize with your delemma, however, I also know the mechanics behind this as well. Ive also built my own version of the trigger sticks mind you... which is another reason I know why.

Ohh another Major problem , is that the "stick travel" is too wide when a long handel is used on a Happs competiton base. So, you will have to move what will seem like 3 miles of distance to activate any switch. Your reaction times will be horrific.. and your wrist will endure great punshment. The base simply is not designed for the extra height.. and thus the pivot point is all wrong, resulting in poor control.

Fozzy The Bear · « **Reply #32 on:** February 23, 2006, 05:45:04 am »

There are you short throw sticks out there.... that would solve the throw problem... There are also some pretty damned strong sticks on the market other than Happs ones....

What you guys use these on at the end of the day is entirely up to you. Which is why I'm going to do the two flavourd versions... you can fit them to whatever you want then.

It does seem that there is enough interest to make this worth doing. So as soon as I can get hold of a set to copy I'll get started on it.

Best Regards,
Julian (Fozzy The Bear)

SirPeale · « **Reply #33 on:** February 23, 2006, 07:36:22 am »

I have a Xenophobe cab that I need the triggers for. They're the same as the Tron triggers (but not blue). Anyone know of a source?

MinerAl · « **Reply #34 on:** February 23, 2006, 10:06:36 am »

Xiaou2,

We'll see

Perhaps I am underestimating the weight of a hollow plastic handle. And without the enormous metal shaft inside, that's all we're talking about here... a hollow plastic handle.

Thanks for suggesting that I do not understand the mechanics of the situation. I good-naturedly disagree. Although the handle is quite tall, one does not play Tron with their hand on top of the stick like they would with a ball top. In order to use the trigger, the bottom of your hand needs to be in only a little higher position than it needs to be using a bat stick. I don't know how you play, but I tend to move the stick with the base of my hand (my pinkie and ring fingers and the muscles in my palm on that side of the hand). I do understand that a longer lever makes it easier to exert more force, but I don't think the difference is as great as you make it out to be, since the hand position is only a bit higher.

I too have hacked trigger sticks. So I'm not operating entirely from theory.

That said, I was using the Super as an example because I was familiar with the hack. If I were doing it again, I would use a shorter throw stick like a t-stick or a suzo500, both of which are also of sturdier construction than the admittedly cheesy Super.

I agree it will not be as bullet proof as a real tron stick. I agree that it would be possible to grab the top of the very tall Tron stick and yank away until you powdered a super base or bent the hollow shaft. I just don't think that even in the heat of battle I will accidentally accomplish this. Maybe I don't play my machine seriously enough.

I respect your opinion and see your points. I'm just too dumb and stubborn not to try it anyway if given the chance

Peale,

From what I understand the Xenophobe handle (and trigger and so on) is the same as the Happ offering, and that the individual parts of the Happ stick are available form their site. Go to the exploded view and write down the parts numbers of the bits you need, and then go fill them in to the order form.

Al

RobotronNut · « **Reply #35 on:** February 23, 2006, 06:11:23 pm »

my preference would be for an exact reproduction of the happ 8-way trigger stick handle, in translucent blue or red. this could be used as a cosmetic upgrade for a brand new happs 8-way trigger stick - the ultimate (though admittedly most expensive) solution.

SirPeale · « **Reply #36 on:** February 23, 2006, 09:20:18 pm »

Quote from: MinerAl on February 23, 2006, 10:06:36 am

From what I understand the Xenophobe handle (and trigger and so on) is the same as the Happ offering, and that the individual parts of the Happ stick are available form their site. Go to the exploded view and write down the parts numbers of the bits you need, and then go fill them in to the order form.

Kick-Ass. Now to find it on their site.

Kremmit · « **Reply #37 on:** February 24, 2006, 12:34:30 am »

Quote from: Peale on February 23, 2006, 09:20:18 pm

Quote from: MinerAl on February 23, 2006, 10:06:36 am
From what I understand the Xenophobe handle (and trigger and so on) is the same as the Happ offering, and that the individual parts of the Happ stick are available form their site. Go to the exploded view and write down the parts numbers of the bits you need, and then go fill them in to the order form.

Kick-Ass. Now to find it on their site.

Or just use the part numbers found here:

http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=34207.msg299426#msg299426

Fozzy The Bear · « **Reply #38 on:** February 24, 2006, 04:44:10 am »

Quote from: Peale on February 23, 2006, 07:36:22 am

I have a Xenophobe cab that I need the triggers for. They're the same as the Tron triggers (but not blue). Anyone know of a source?

Yes... I'll be casting the triggers as well... The TRON triggers were generally Red not Blue...

Best Regards,
Julian (Fozzy The Bear)

Xiaou2 · « **Reply #39 on:** February 24, 2006, 07:32:08 am »

Translucent Red triggers Please : )

Fozzy The Bear · « **Reply #40 on:** February 24, 2006, 07:39:04 am »

Quote from: Xiaou2 on February 24, 2006, 07:32:08 am

Translucent Red triggers Please : )

YUP! No problem!

Additionally.... I now have an original set of TRON Handle shells and a trigger on loan, on the way to me from Canada.....

So! I should be able to have a first run mold ready in about a months time. I would guess that we could have production runs going on them by the end of April or May.

I will post to the board with a price, when the first ones are ready to ship. I WILL NOT! take advance orders on them do not ask to place an order now, because i can only tell you the exact price and shipping once they're ready to ship.

They will go on a first come first served basis once they are completed and the run numbers are likely to be limited, becuase I simply don't have time to produce them in the hundreds. So if you really need them, keep an eye on the board for the details.

Best Regards,
Julian (Fozzy The Bear)

SirPeale · « **Reply #41 on:** February 24, 2006, 08:27:08 am »

Quote from: Fozzy The Bear on February 24, 2006, 04:44:10 am

Yes... I'll be casting the triggers as well... The TRON triggers were generally Red not Blue...

Pity...I need black.

MinerAl · « **Reply #42 on:** February 24, 2006, 11:38:57 am »

Quote from: Fozzy The Bear on February 24, 2006, 07:39:04 am

Quote from: Xiaou2 on February 24, 2006, 07:32:08 am
Translucent Red triggers Please : )
YUP! No problem!

Woohoo!

At the back of the top of the stick is the plate where the thumb buttons go if you are going to have thumb buttons. Could you make a transluscent blue plate for that space?

Will you post in this thread or in a new one when the time comes?

Thanks

Al

Teebor · « **Reply #43 on:** February 24, 2006, 11:42:33 am »

Wasnt that a metal almost diamond shaped plate which had one button for tron a 2nd hole hidden away behind the graphic?

Or are you just going for the totally translucent joystick look

MinerAl · « **Reply #44 on:** February 24, 2006, 11:53:26 am »

Tron just had a Tron sticker over an undrilled metal plate, Discs of Tron had one button(?) and Xenophobe had 2(?) .

I just thought it would look neat transluscent blue, especially with some transluscent red minibuttons in it. But obviously people who want to restore or duplicate the original would just need a sticker, or the Happ's metal plate (with a sticker).

I was thinking about how good EL-wire would look in a totally transluscent Tron stick.

Al

Teebor · « **Reply #45 on:** February 24, 2006, 12:19:04 pm »

That would look neat with the rest of the panel nicely lit too

Fozzy The Bear · « **Reply #46 on:** February 25, 2006, 06:28:36 am »

Quote from: MinerAl on February 24, 2006, 11:53:26 am

I just thought it would look neat transluscent blue, especially with some transluscent red minibuttons in it. But obviously people who want to restore or duplicate the original would just need a sticker, or the Happ's metal plate (with a sticker).

I was thinking about how good EL-wire would look in a totally transluscent Tron stick.

I can take a look at it Al, We might be able to cast a translucent plate and include it as an option in the parts supplied.

Best Regards,
Julian (Fozzy The Bear)

NoOne=NBA= · « **Reply #47 on:** February 26, 2006, 03:19:54 pm »

Quote from: MinerAl on February 24, 2006, 11:53:26 am

Tron just had a Tron sticker over an undrilled metal plate, Discs of Tron had one button(?) and Xenophobe had 2(?) .

I've actually been looking into doing a run of these recently.

Between work and school, I haven't had time to do a formal B/S/T post though.
I can't even find any of the pictures I shot of them a month or so ago.
I'm attaching a picture that someone else shot of one of the protos I sent them to test.

The plates are anodized aluminum, with a high-resolution vinyl sticker attached, and a mylar overlaminate to protect the vinyl.

rdagger · « **Reply #48 on:** February 26, 2006, 03:58:25 pm »

Fozzy, I have dabbled in Alumilite casting and I have a few questions.
1. What types of silicone and casting resin are you using?
2. Are you using a vacuum chamber and pressure pot?
3. I'm looking at the Tron handle on my cab and there are a lot of small features inside. Will you be able to capture all the details?
4. Are you going to use a 2 piece mold?

Fozzy The Bear · « **Reply #49 on:** February 26, 2006, 07:38:01 pm »

Quote from: rdagger on February 26, 2006, 03:58:25 pm

Fozzy, I have dabbled in Alumilite casting and I have a few questions.

OK I'll try and give you few answers....

Quote from: rdagger on February 26, 2006, 03:58:25 pm

1. What types of silicone and casting resin are you using?

The silicone is RTV which is a self vulcanising mold rubber.... It comes in three grades, Hard, Medium and Soft. The Resins are commercial grade and require special handling as they're lethally toxic until cured. After which they're totally inert and you can even eat them and suffer no ill effects. Although I'm not sure why anybody would want to chew bits of plastic.

Quote from: rdagger on February 26, 2006, 03:58:25 pm

2. Are you using a vacuum chamber and pressure pot?

Vacuum chamber... Yes (at nearly 40inches of Mercury) and pressure pot... No (not nessesary for this resin)

Quote from: rdagger on February 26, 2006, 03:58:25 pm

3. I'm looking at the Tron handle on my cab and there are a lot of small features inside. Will you be able to capture all the details?

Yes... I can't think of another answer to that one.... Except to say that the mold compound we use captures detail as fine as a finger print on the surface of an object.

Quote from: rdagger on February 26, 2006, 03:58:25 pm

4. Are you going to use a 2 piece mold?

Nope!! It's a 4 piece mold... allows for quicker de-mold without risk to the finished cast.

Hope that answers your questions... If you have anything else you want to know just yell up.

Best Regards,
Julian (Fozzy The Bear)

Kremmit · « **Reply #50 on:** February 26, 2006, 11:20:16 pm »

Quote from: Fozzy The Bear on February 26, 2006, 07:38:01 pm

Quote from: rdagger on February 26, 2006, 03:58:25 pm
3. I'm looking at the Tron handle on my cab and there are a lot of small features inside. Will you be able to capture all the details?

Yes... I can't think of another answer to that one.... Except to say that the mold compound we use captures detail as fine as a finger print on the surface of an object.

Are the loaner handles you're getting NOS? It would be a shame to cast new ones with scratches already in them. IIRC, that was why Specialty Plastics quit- his molds wore out, and he couldn't find a perfect set of grips to make new molds.

That said, I'm down for at least one set of these, even if they aren't 100% perfect. Maybe more, depending on price.

saint · « **Reply #51 on:** February 27, 2006, 01:47:32 am »

I'd be happy to host it

Anytime someone would like to share something with BYOAC folks I'm happy to host!

--- saint

Quote from: Fozzy The Bear on February 17, 2006, 08:20:51 pm

I'll write a tutorial up for doing it as I go along with it, and take some photographs if it helps people... Maybe Saint will host the tutorial when I get it done.

Kremmit · « **Reply #52 on:** February 27, 2006, 02:31:49 am »

Here's some more pics of one of those backplates NoOne did. Mine's not aluminum, though.

MinerAl · « **Reply #53 on:** February 27, 2006, 08:53:13 am »

Fozzy-

I just won This auction included in which is a Tron cocktail stick.

I have not received it yet, but when I do, if it is clean, would you be interested in casting it in transluscent blue? There has been discussion of need for a good trigger balltop, and this might be the thing the community would pay for... I know I would take two.

Al

Teebor · « **Reply #54 on:** February 27, 2006, 11:15:23 am »

I saw that auction too. I saw what I thought was a tron stick base but I couldn't see the handle with trigger in the picture...

Grats on winning it if they are all serviceable that would be a cheap lot of good sticks

Fozzy The Bear · « **Reply #55 on:** February 28, 2006, 04:37:51 am »

Quote from: Kremmit on February 26, 2006, 11:20:16 pm

Are the loaner handles you're getting NOS? It would be a shame to cast new ones with scratches already in them. IIRC, that was why Specialty Plastics quit- his molds wore out, and he couldn't find a perfect set of grips to make new molds.

Ermm No They're old old stock.... But I'll be casting a master from them first, so we may be able to put right any major defect that shows up. Minor defects like scratches and natural wear, just show a bit of age and charm to the item. If you're looking for absolute brand new perfection, it's not going to happen here. That said, they will be 100% accurate to the original set they're cast from.

Quote from: saint on February 27, 2006, 01:47:32 am

I'd be happy to host it Anytime someone would like to share something with BYOAC folks I'm happy to host!

Yeah!!! Saint!!

Great!!! I'll make sure I take plenty of photographs of the process and how to do it then.

Might do a separate set using the easiest domestic methods so that other people can copy the method without using vacuum chambers and any expensive extra equipment.

Best Regards,
Julian (Fozzy The Bear)

Fozzy The Bear · « **Reply #56 on:** February 28, 2006, 04:48:50 am »

Quote from: MinerAl on February 27, 2006, 08:53:13 am

I just won This auction included in which is a Tron cocktail stick.

I have not received it yet, but when I do, if it is clean, would you be interested in casting it in transluscent blue? There has been discussion of need for a good trigger balltop, and this might be the thing the community would pay for... I know I would take two.

Nice win Al,
I can't actually see a TRON stick handle in that lot mate... not even a cocktail one.... The tron stick is the womping great thing on the right hand side of that picture.

That said a translucent blue ball top handle is a very easy thing to cast if that's what you're looking for. We can do that by using a regular ball top and dipping it in Laytex dipping rubber numerous times to build up a coat. Peel that off and you then have a near perfect ball mold. just pour the resin straight in and hang it up to set. It's even self releasing which makes getting it out of the mold even easier.

Didn't somebody sell translucent ball tops?? Was Randy selling them?? It might be easier and cheaper to just buy one of those.

Best Regards,
Julian (Fozzy The Bear)

Fozzy The Bear · « **Reply #57 on:** February 28, 2006, 05:20:14 am »

Quote from: Kremmit on February 27, 2006, 02:31:49 am

Here's some more pics of one of those backplates NoOne did. Mine's not aluminum, though.

Might be as easy to just fit a translucent clear or blue perspex piece.... and then put whatever sticker it is people want on it.

Might also be cheaper for people to get hold of a perspex offcut to make that part, than it would be for me to try casting the part.

Best Regards,
Julian (Fozzy The Bear)

spriggy · « **Reply #58 on:** February 28, 2006, 06:36:51 am »

... threads and projects like this really show what it is to be a BYOAC member.. Bring it the frick on!!!

(Now..back to my 4th glass of James Squire 'India Pale Ale' while the wife watches her evening soapee shite!)

MinerAl · « **Reply #59 on:** February 28, 2006, 09:04:21 am »

Quote from: Fozzy The Bear on February 28, 2006, 04:48:50 am

Nice win Al,
I can't actually see a TRON stick handle in that lot mate... not even a cocktail one.... The tron stick is the womping great thing on the right hand side of that picture.

The red handle with the black trigger on the front and the wire dangling from it's shaft is a Tron cocktail ball top

markrvp · « **Reply #60 on:** February 28, 2006, 09:26:12 am »

Quote from: Fozzy The Bear on February 28, 2006, 04:48:50 am

That said a translucent blue ball top handle is a very easy thing to cast if that's what you're looking for.

Fozzy:

The magic of the Tron Cocktail handle is that it also has a trigger in it. What MinerAl is talking about making is a TRIGGER balltop like that. This is in addition to the regular full-size Tron stick. I'll try and get a better picture of one later today that shows the trigger.

Teebor · « **Reply #61 on:** February 28, 2006, 10:40:53 am »

Quote from: MinerAl on February 28, 2006, 09:04:21 am

Quote from: Fozzy The Bear on February 28, 2006, 04:48:50 am
Nice win Al,
I can't actually see a TRON stick handle in that lot mate... not even a cocktail one.... The tron stick is the womping great thing on the right hand side of that picture.

The red handle with the black trigger on the front and the wire dangling from it's shaft is a Tron cocktail ball top

What an awesome little ball top

I suppose that might also be good for other games being a ball top and all

Kremmit · « **Reply #62 on:** February 28, 2006, 10:47:13 am »

I always thought those were kinda funny looking.

I prefer these:

Teebor · « **Reply #63 on:** February 28, 2006, 10:58:31 am »

cool paint em white and they will look like eyes.

MinerAl · « **Reply #64 on:** February 28, 2006, 12:56:28 pm »

And if they were pink with red buttons they'd look like...

bloodshot albino eyes.

RayB's button tops were great, but he's out of them (I have one, and it's cool). The only problem with button tops is that I use ball tops from above, with my hand sort of cupped around the top of the stick. Button tops have to be held from the side with thumbs on top, and bat sticks are more ergonomic for that. The Tron balltops have the trigger on the front, so you can still use your hand normally and shoot with the middle or index finger draped from above (I hope... I don't actually have it to try yet).

Al

Fozzy The Bear · « **Reply #65 on:** February 28, 2006, 05:57:57 pm »

Ahhhh! OK I see what you mean about a TRON cocktail trigger stick now...... They were fitted with different ones in the UK... To be honest there were not many TRON cocktail units over here.

I guess the answer is that it could be done. But I want to get this one sorted out first. Once I see that there's enough interest in a ball top trigger I might take it on a way down the line.

Let me try and tackle and sort out the full stick first though.

Best Regards,
Julian (Fozzy The Bear)

MinerAl · « **Reply #66 on:** February 28, 2006, 10:08:24 pm »

Oh alright

Sorry for the thread derail. I'm still very pumped for the full size handles!

Fozzy The Bear · « **Reply #67 on:** February 28, 2006, 10:11:51 pm »

Quote from: MinerAl on February 28, 2006, 10:08:24 pm

Oh alright
Sorry for the thread derail. I'm still very pumped for the full size handles!

Not derailed at all...

still well on topic. Like I said, I may well think about doing them later on this year.

Best Regards,
Julian (Fozzy The Bear)

markrvp · « **Reply #68 on:** March 01, 2006, 12:12:59 pm »

Hey Fozzy:

File these Tron cocktail pics under "something for future reference."

markrvp · « **Reply #69 on:** March 01, 2006, 12:13:29 pm »

Full Frontal:

Havok · « **Reply #70 on:** March 01, 2006, 12:24:44 pm »

Quote from: markrvp on March 01, 2006, 12:13:29 pm

Full Frontal:

Don't bring this thread into the cheesecake domain!

Teebor · « **Reply #71 on:** March 01, 2006, 12:33:54 pm »

despite being functional that looks fugly.

Some serious wear and tear on their though, many people must have loved that piece of game history through the years.

MinerAl · « **Reply #72 on:** March 01, 2006, 01:37:04 pm »

Quote from: Teebor on March 01, 2006, 12:33:54 pm

despite being functional that looks fugly.

Yes, but imagine it in glorius transluscent blue with a red trigger!

$:-\$

Fozzy The Bear · « **Reply #73 on:** March 01, 2006, 06:02:09 pm »

Quote from: MinerAl on March 01, 2006, 01:37:04 pm

Quote from: Teebor on March 01, 2006, 12:33:54 pm
despite being functional that looks fugly.

Yes, but imagine it in glorius transluscent blue with a red trigger!

$:-\$

Sorry Al,
But I have to agree that it is a Fugly stick..... It might look a lot better in translucent blue, lit up from inside though.

Best Regards,
Julian (Fozzy The Bear)

cornishHen · « **Reply #74 on:** March 27, 2006, 02:39:27 pm »

Fozzy,
Any news on when the handles will be available???

Thanks!

daywane · « **Reply #75 on:** March 27, 2006, 04:27:50 pm »

I have a complete tron stick I can lend you.
Honestly I only scanned the posts.
(wife nagging lets GO!) if you need the tron stick just let me know

Fozzy The Bear · « **Reply #76 on:** March 27, 2006, 06:28:00 pm »

Quote from: pzappa on March 27, 2006, 02:39:27 pm

Fozzy,
Any news on when the handles will be available???

Yes Guys... It's in progress...

Also... Thanks "daywane" We already have a complete set courtesy of another member. But thanks for the offer. I'm not naming who lent them, becuase he hasn't announced that himself, and I don't know if he wants me to say. Suffice to say that it's a very near to mint condition set, and should produce very nice casts.

I'm expecting that the first casts will come out of the molds in early May and that they will be on track for production shortly there after.

Best Regards,
Julian (Fozzy The Bear)

RobotronNut · « **Reply #77 on:** March 27, 2006, 07:12:01 pm »

does anyone know how the original tron handles fit onto a happ 8-way flight stick?

Fozzy The Bear · « **Reply #78 on:** March 27, 2006, 08:48:27 pm »

Quote from: RobotronNut on March 27, 2006, 07:12:01 pm

does anyone know how the original tron handles fit onto a happ 8-way flight stick?

Yes... There's a plastic sleve over the stick shaft... The original stick shell then bolts on through the plastic sleve and the shaft.

This won't be an issue with these re-casts. They will be solid at all of the webs and you will be able to drill them yourself to fit whatever stick shaft you are using.

Best Regards,
Julian (Fozzy The Bear)

Santoro · « **Reply #79 on:** March 27, 2006, 10:02:10 pm »

I'm in... Awesome.

MinerAl · « **Reply #80 on:** March 28, 2006, 09:37:37 am »

Just to reiterate:

YAY!

PetitMorte · « **Reply #81 on:** March 28, 2006, 01:29:02 pm »

Wow! count me in.

Fozzy The Bear · « **Reply #82 on:** March 28, 2006, 08:20:37 pm »

OK Guys! Your interest is noted....

I will update this thread, when there's some more news.

I'm away on business for the next week, so any more questions you have will get answered when I get back on the 5th or 6th April.

Best Regards,
Julian (Fozzy The Bear)

teef two · « **Reply #83 on:** March 29, 2006, 09:11:27 am »

Having just won a tron panel, sans spinner, on ebay I'd be interested in a replacement handle as the current plastic, although servicable, is showing cracks at the base.

Fozzy The Bear · « **Reply #84 on:** April 05, 2006, 06:11:46 am »

OK Guys! I'm back from my trip.....

If you have any more questions I can answer them for you now.....

The one you really want an answer to is the price I guess..... Still working on that one. If we can get the required resin ordered in bulk then the price drops dramatically. I'll update on this as soon as I can.

Best Regards,
Julian (Fozzy The Bear)

Brax · « **Reply #85 on:** April 05, 2006, 12:10:08 pm »

Quote from: Fozzy The Bear on March 27, 2006, 06:28:00 pm

We already have a complete set courtesy of another member. But thanks for the offer. I'm not naming who lent them, becuase he hasn't announced that himself, and I don't know if he wants me to say. Suffice to say that it's a very near to mint condition set, and should produce very nice casts.

I lent the set. The reason I haven't said anything is because I don't really have much to do with it! I just lent the handles - wasn't hard. Fozzy's doing all the work, he deserves the credit.

I can't wait to see these either. The anticipation is killing me!

Fozzy The Bear · « **Reply #86 on:** April 05, 2006, 05:39:59 pm »

Quote from: Brax on April 05, 2006, 12:10:08 pm

I lent the set. The reason I haven't said anything is because I don't really have much to do with it! I just lent the handles - wasn't hard.

Hey! Trust me on this one, without your originals I'd have nothing to work from. To trust somebody you don't know well, with your original items, which to be honest have as much sentimental value as they do monitary value is a big thing!

Thanks to you, we should all have access to good replicas.

Best Regards,
Julian (Fozzy The Bear)

markrvp · « **Reply #87 on:** April 05, 2006, 06:06:31 pm »

One of you guys (Brax & Fozzy) must change your Avatar. I get confused easily.

quarterback · « **Reply #88 on:** April 05, 2006, 07:10:40 pm »

Quote from: markrvp on April 05, 2006, 06:06:31 pm

One of you guys (Brax & Fozzy) must change your Avatar. I get confused easily.

LOL me too. I thought that Fozzy was talking to himself!

Fozzy The Bear · « **Reply #89 on:** April 05, 2006, 10:07:08 pm »

Quote from: quarterback on April 05, 2006, 07:10:40 pm

Quote from: markrvp on April 05, 2006, 06:06:31 pm
One of you guys (Brax & Fozzy) must change your Avatar. I get confused easily.

LOL me too. I thought that Fozzy was talking to himself!

There'd be nothing new there then.....

Best Regards,
Julian (Fozzy The Bear)

Havok · « **Reply #90 on:** April 06, 2006, 10:01:46 am »

Is this some kind of "Mini-me" situation?

Fozzy The Bear · « **Reply #91 on:** April 06, 2006, 07:35:44 pm »

Quote from: Havok on April 06, 2006, 10:01:46 am

Is this some kind of "Mini-me" situation?

Jah!! I cast Brax in a genetic mold made from a single strand of my hair.... With the aim of dominating the world (Evil Laugh) MMWWAAAHHH HAAA HAAA HAAA!

Starting with TRON Joysticks.

Best Regards,
Julian (Fozzy The Bear)

MinerAl · « **Reply #92 on:** April 19, 2006, 03:12:23 pm »

How'd the resin ordering go?

Fozzy The Bear · « **Reply #93 on:** April 19, 2006, 05:58:52 pm »

Quote from: MinerAl on April 19, 2006, 03:12:23 pm

How'd the resin ordering go?

Still negotiating on that one Al..... The molds are almost ready though and I'll be posting a tutorial on that process, with photographs, soon, and asking Saint to host it on a permanent basis so that other people will be able to tackle re-casting of components for themselves.

I should have a better idea of the price per stick at the end of the month, or at least shortly into May, when the first ones come out of the molds.

At the moment, I'm waiting for the molds to properly cure, before we try and pull any handles from them. This should ensure that they have a longer working life and allow us to pull at least 100 sets over time, before they deteriorate.

Best Regards,
Julian (Fozzy The Bear)

MinerAl · « **Reply #94 on:** April 20, 2006, 12:23:12 pm »

Cool.

Sorry to be a pest.

Looking forward to the tutorial too... maybe I'll have to make my own cocktail-tron sticks

MameMaster! · « **Reply #95 on:** April 20, 2006, 03:54:34 pm »

I'm in too....cool!

Brax · « **Reply #96 on:** April 20, 2006, 09:16:34 pm »

Enough foreplay! I wanna see the gory details!

PICS!

Fozzy The Bear · « **Reply #97 on:** April 21, 2006, 04:22:14 am »

Quote from: Brax on April 20, 2006, 09:16:34 pm

Enough foreplay! I wanna see the gory details!
PICS!

OK! I'm snowed under at work over the next three or four days... but I'll do my best to get a few pictures up next week.

Best Regards,
Julian (Fozzy The Bear)

Fozzy The Bear · « **Reply #98 on:** April 26, 2006, 09:26:46 am »

Please bear with me on the photographs guys..... Very very snowed under with work at the moment... Might be a week or two yet.

Best Regards,
Julian (Fozzy The Bear)

teef two · « **Reply #99 on:** April 26, 2006, 09:33:42 am »

NP Fozzy. A hobby does not the mortgage pay!

Havok · « **Reply #100 on:** July 10, 2006, 03:17:22 pm »

Any updates on this?

Need an intern?

ArcadeMaze · « **Reply #101 on:** July 10, 2006, 07:04:12 pm »

I would think so. I just read in the July issue of Gameroom magazine that they are going to sell for $20, including trigger.

CheffoJeffo · « **Reply #102 on:** July 10, 2006, 07:37:40 pm »

Can we all lay off of Fozzy, please ? If he weren't horribly busy with RealLife(tm), he would post something.

Brax is allowed to be impatient, the rest of us should shut up lest Fozzy decides not to go forward with a full run.

Cheers.

Havok · « **Reply #103 on:** July 10, 2006, 08:28:10 pm »

I offered my services as an intern - so I can ask... No pressure...

1UP · « **Reply #104 on:** July 10, 2006, 09:54:09 pm »

FWIW, the Tron bases are still in the works. The design has been finished for over a year, but in the restructuring of Spincade they have been put on the back burner until the cabs are officially released. The bases are pretty custom, not just an off-the-shelf Super. And the final design does work. Very well.

Quote from: MinerAl on February 23, 2006, 10:06:36 am

Although the handle is quite tall, one does not play Tron with their hand on top of the stick like they would with a ball top. In order to use the trigger, the bottom of your hand needs to be in only a little higher position than it needs to be using a bat stick. I don't know how you play, but I tend to move the stick with the base of my hand (my pinkie and ring fingers and the muscles in my palm on that side of the hand). I do understand that a longer lever makes it easier to exert more force, but I don't think the difference is as great as you make it out to be, since the hand position is only a bit higher.

This is correct. Using a Tron handle on a modified 8-way base is pretty much like operating a normal 8-way by gripping it rather than using the ball of your hand and fingertips, except you are holding it one inch higher. I have never had any problems, even with the admittedly cheap versions I built long ago for my home cabinet. The parts going into the new sticks are much heavier, and most of the stress is handled by the grommet.

Animeka · « **Reply #105 on:** July 11, 2006, 07:31:42 pm »

Quote from: 1UP on July 10, 2006, 09:54:09 pm

FWIW, the Tron bases are still in the works. The design has been finished for over a year, but in the restructuring of Spincade they have been put on the back burner until the cabs are officially released. The bases are pretty custom, not just an off-the-shelf Super. And the final design does work. Very well.

If I'm reading this correctly, you're working on tron bases for the repro sticks?

Marc


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