I had the same problem with a standard spring fitted T-Stik when, as an experiment, I swapped the standard microswitches with some cherry switches I removed from a Happ Super. It appears the standard T-Stiks come fitted with very stiff microswitches for a reason. Having said that, I'm not really sure whether the problem was caused by the super microswitches being less stiff, or because they have a different activation point.
Another thing I've noticed with the T-Stiks is that the microswitches are held in place with a screw and a plastic lug. With three of the switches the plastic lug is nearest the activator, but on the 4th switch the screw and lug are reversed so the screw is nearest the activator. It's hard to explain in words but anyone who looks at the joystick base will see what I mean. This 4th switch moves about more than the other three (in relation to the activator) and thus seems to cause the most problems.
If it is the 4th switch causing the problem then perhaps you could wrap some tape round the screw to help keep the switch in its correct position. Also, according to another thread
(here) the problem can be solved by bending the metal bar. I haven't risked this myself as I don't have any spare switches, and the tolerances are very tight.