The key to panting with MDF

[kahlid74]

I'm about 80% done with my plans for my BattleTech Pod/Race car cockpit and in thinking about things early and I need to evaluate the paint situation.

For my full size arcade cabinet I primed all the wood first, and then painted a black coat over it.  It worked well but required several layers of primer.

My question is what have people found to work best?

1). Primer several times, then use a roller and coat with a single color?
2). Primer and then use a spray gun to coat several times?
3). Use a cover type over it?

For my bartop arcade machine I used one of the sticky covers with natural wood grain and it was soo awesome.  Problem is for a full out 8 foot by 5 foot cockpit that's gonna be a lot of covering.

[mahuti]

Good tutorial

http://www.tutankham.com/painting.htm

Myself.. I use a few layers of primer with a light sand, then 2-3 coats. Spray gun will get the best finish. Smooth roller will do fine, however.

[versapak]

Sure seems like a lot of extra work.

I just simply stick out my tongue, and breathe as though I am hyperventilating.

[rwhip41]

From my experience...

I used one coat of tinted oil-based primer and two coats of black enamel gloss latex. I used a fine-hair roller (molehair?) to give it a very slight texture (and to elominate brush marks). No sanding. Just let the latex cure for a week or two at a decent temeprature (it won't cure under 50 degrees F). Otherwise, the latex will scratch off easily. It will dry, but it will scratch if uncured.

[Luckydevil]

Don't use latex paint, it sucks and you'll regret it.

[rwhip41]

Don't use latex paint, it sucks and you'll regret it.

Why?

[allroy1975]

Don't use latex paint, it sucks and you'll regret it.

I used laytex paint.  High Gloss.  Love it.  No problems and I think it looks great....eventually I'll regret it though apparently.   

Allroy

[quarterback]

Sure seems like a lot of extra work.

I just simply stick out my tongue, and breathe as though I am hyperventilating.

LOL 

[Luckydevil]

Why?

Latex paint is just too fragile for something like a cab. I used it and wish that I would have used something like that Rustoleum enamel. At least for me the latex seems like it will be soft forever, even after a few months of dry time. Never really hardens like an enamel would.

The removeable back panel on my cab rips off small pieces of the latex paint every time I take it off and put it back on. Also, because the primer I used was white, anytime the cab is nicked it allows white primer to show through and has to be touched up. Enamels are harder and more durable so that wouldn't be an issue with them.

I've also read the bad experiences with people trying to stick artwork to latex based paint.

[spriggy]

.. Minimum requirements for a nice finish...  IMO 

Good quality Foam Roller...
300-400 grit... lightly sand between all coats
1 decent coat of MDF specific primer...
2 coats of an oil based paint...
Immediately after applying each coat of oil based.. get rid of the excess paint by rolling the roller onto some newspaper, then with just the weight of the roller (no pressure),  lay-off by running the roller from the top of the painted area to the bottom in single gentle one direction stroke...
Very slight orange peeled textured, mirrored finishes can be produced this way..

Brians tutorial, as pointed out by mahuti.. is the ideal method..

Good Luck.

[allroy1975]

I kick the hell out of mine (sorry man...I'm emotional and sometimes I tell ms. pacman to go down and she doesn't....NO not go down like that you sicko...get your mind out of the gutter....) I've always kicked or punched arcade machines and I treat mine the same way.  I think it's a testament to how well built it is that I can kick the hell out of it..any way....the laytex paint has held up just fine.

Allroy

[elvis]

I used a fine-hair roller (molehair?) to give it a very slight texture

"Mohair" is the term you're looking for.  It's a fine material that doesn't clog or clump like longer haired rollers do.  Likewise when using enamels they tend to get very sticky very fast, and you end up with bits of roller fluff all over your paintwork.  Again, mohair rollers prevent this, and leave a fantastic finish.

They're about 5 times more expensive than your average cheapy rollers that you use for water-based paints, but are worth the cost if you use enamels, or other high-gloss and hard wearing finishes.

[subcriminal]

I know everyone has their own recomendations but if I was going to do another one I'd go with the same again.

- Multi surface primer (MDF primer) - 2 coats and lightly sanded
- Crown One coat satin black (DuPont smartpaint) it's like a can of tar, roller it on and it smoothes itself out 
- Dulux Satinwood oil based I only did one coat.
- Painted most of the panels before assembly. Just did the outer side panels when it was built. The finish on the panels that were painted    flat is better than the sides that were painted upright.
- Gives a tough finish. I recently moved the cab into another room by myself damaging door frames on the way and one radiator, the paint held up ok!
I dont know if this photo gives a good enough view of the finish, I tried to get a close up of the blue and black.

[redfivexw]

I have used latex paint on about 10 cabinets now and i will tell you what to do to make it durable.  I paint the machine with a quart of flat wall paint (very cheap to buy, less than 10 dollars - color matched).  I put on 2-3 coats using a foam roller. I then put on a coat of clear polycrylic over it.  When that is dry, the surface is rock hard and glossy, makes for a nice finish.  Obviously, painting with a spray gun would be better, but i have to work in my basement game room and dont have the room for it.  also my wife is allergic to strong odors so i cannot use oil base paints.  I came up with this combo because there is almost no smell, and i can paint in a very small area, and it is inexpensive. 

[CartmanDP1]

God I wish I had seen this before I painted my cab, used latex primer and latex paint on mdf after heating and scraping for a week. Now a few months after repainting it's all torn up and im dreading repainting.

[DrewKaree]

also my wife is allergic to strong odors

Evidently you're not as allergic to the hosing she's giving you

[farmecologist]

I used latex paint on my cabinet.  It IS more 'fragile' than other finishes.  However, if you protect the areas that will get the most abuse, then you will be fine.   For example, use a metal kick plate on the bottom front of the cabinet.  That will save you a LOT of wear and tear.

[DrewKaree]

Paint is paint.  Latex doesn't have the same build-up as oil.  That's the ONLY reason it isn't as durable as oil, and if you paint the snot out of it to get that build-up, it CAN be as durable as oil.

The people who don't like latex paint have had bad experiences with it.  The people who don't like oil paint have had bad experiences with it.  The same goes for good experiences.  There is NOTHING wrong with using latex paint for your cab - NOTHING AT ALL  Anyone telling you differently isn't being objective and realistic.

There are different things to do when dealing with one type of paint vs the other.  If YOU want to use latex paint, read the replies of people who have had success with it.  Ask them how they dealt with it, what temperatures they painted in, anything extra they did to help the paint cure better/faster, and any other tips they can give you.

It's been shown that successful results can be obtained when using latex.

[redfivexw]

as i stated before, i have had very good, durable results with latex, but i highly recommend the polycrylic coat after the color coat, it makes it durable, cleanable, and glossy.  Looks great.   

[whatzcrackn]

what about watercolors?

[mahuti]

Watercolors are fine as long as you use the polycrylic coat after the color coat, it makes it durable, cleanable, and glossy. Looks great.

[ShinAce]

Oil paint is inexpensive, completely waterproof(for easy cleaning), and resists incredibly well to scratches. It does smell strongly when curing.

I've also used enamel, which gives a nice finish, dries fast, but scratches from the dust of a cloth wiping it down.

Personally, I'll only use oil from now on.

[Excretious]

I myself have had a bad experience with the polycrylic coat.  I should also note that i am a total painting newb 

Heres what i did..... this is on my control panel, havnt yet gotten to the actual cabinet.

Two coats of oil based kilz primer........ sand
Two coats of oil based rust oleum flat black....... sand
Coat of water based minwax polycrylic (says it can be used to seal oil based paint)

This was done with a foam roller and when i put the polycrylic on, it left tiny air bubbles all over the clear coat. 

This forced me to sand it back down to the color coat.  I then did another flat black coat, then tried the polycrylic again while being more careful and it still left them ****ing tiny air bubbles all over the clear coat.

As of right now ive sanded back down to the black and rolled on another coat of black.  I now must make a decision and am scared to try the polycrylic again. 

I have a can of oilbased polyurethane and may try that because i think the water based polycrylic isnt liking the oil based coats its being applied on.


The only thing i can think of as to why im having problems with the polycrylic is maybe i need to presoak the foam roller so that its filled with pure poly.  Maybe the air in the foam roller is pushing out with the polycrylic as im applying it.   I dunno but im at wits end and my garage is a mess from all the sanding.


Any advice would be HUGELY appreciated.

[DrewKaree]

This was done with a foam roller and when i put the polycrylic on, it left tiny air bubbles all over the clear coat. 

Presoaking your roller isn't going to make a darn bit of difference.  You shouldn't be using a foam roller for this application AT ALL.  I don't even care if the can says you are able to, it's the flat-out wrong applicator.

Get yourself a nice brush.  If you MUST use something cheap, get a paint PAD.  MOST importantly is - DO NOT SHAKE THE CAN TO MIX IT UP - I REPEAT, DO NOT SHAKE THE CAN TO MIX IT UP!.  Grab a stirring stick, and stir the snot out of it.  If it feels like there's sludge on the bottom of the can, keep stirring.  And stir.  And stir.  When you're done stirring, stir some more. 

Using the brush (or your pad), put down a nice coat of the stuff.  Move in ONE direction.  When you have everything covered (work quickly too), take your brush (this is why a brush is BETTER than a pad) and just barely holding on to the end of the brush with your thumb and forefinger, go back against the direction you applied everything in.  Hold the brush a little short of vertical (like around 75 degrees) and go back over the whole piece.  This is called "tipping off" the finish.  This will help eliminate any air bubbles that might have formed, and will help to level out your finish.

You'll never get a decent finish with poly using a foam roller.  It's just NEVER going to happen.

[Excretious]

Drew,

Thanks a TON for the tip, but in your opinion, what should i be using.... the polycrylic that is water based or the polyurethane that is oil based? 

Does it matter?  Mahuti told me in private message that i shouldnt use anything that isnt oil based until my previous oil based coats have been given enough time to cure.  He said that could take weeks depending on climate.

again , thanks for the help!

[mahuti]

I agree with what Drew said, those are all good notes. I used to use a foam roller from time to time, but more often, if I'm not using my paint sprayer I do use a brush. You can get the stuff on pretty thick and smooth that way and polish later. The worst thing about brushes is losing hairs in the paint.... so a pad is definitely a good buy.

[DrewKaree]

Does it matter?  Mahuti told me in private message that i shouldnt use anything that isnt oil based until my previous oil based coats have been given enough time to cure.  He said that could take weeks depending on climate.

It won't matter whichever version you use, and mahuti is correct in letting your stuff cure.  The oil uses stuff that evaporates as it cures and also gives off fumes as it cures, so that's why it's gotta cure if you want stuff to stick to it.  If you can't hold off, then use the oil-based stuff, since they're similar materials. 

p.s. keep your pm's quiet, there's a reason they're Private messages

[redfivexw]

ok,
so obviously most of you feel that you must use oil paint, but as i said before, i have painted 10 cabinets using flat latex paint, then follow with polycrylic.  You cannot use a roller with the polycrylic, it does leave the bubbles.  If you use a really good brush, put on the poly, then sand with 600 grit paper, then put on a second coat, the finish is amazing.  I have had not had any problems with the paint peeling, i doubt any of you would even be able to tell it was latex.   Here is a photo of a recent cabinet i restored, i bought it as a "total carnage" machine, after scraping it down, i found out it was a ms pacman, i already have a ms pac so i made it a galaga.  Just check it out

[redfivexw]

Ps - Mahuti, just because you have had good results with oil, does not mean that there are not other ways, you need to keep your mind open to new things, it is not nice to make fun

[DrewKaree]

Ps - Mahuti, just because you have had good results with oil, does not mean that there are not other ways, you need to keep your mind open to new things, it is not nice to make fun

You'll have to re-read this entire thread slowly.  Nowhere does mahuti even reference "having had good results with oil".  I'm not sure he even said that to the guy in PM, but that he'd have to wait for the oil coats to dry.

Plus, it IS nice to make fun.  In fact, there's a whole fort hidden around these parts dedicated to that theory