Author Topic: Quick question about T-Molding (Read 1947 times)

AMDman13 · « **on:** February 10, 2006, 07:46:15 am »

Do most people route and add T-molding to the bottom of the Cabinet sides. I'm talking the bottom that will be facing the floor once attatched to the base.
I plan on routing out the grove this weekend and can't decide on this.

MovingTarget · « **Reply #1 on:** February 10, 2006, 07:56:34 am »

I think most people do route the bottom. I didn't want the t-molding sitting on the floor so when I designed the cabinet I have the side panel that takes the t molding mounted to a board that is lower and behind it.

The piece that takes the molding is the 3/4" MDF on the very right of the picture.

ChicagoDave · « **Reply #2 on:** February 10, 2006, 08:45:26 am »

I did not route the part that faces the floor.

kelemvor · « **Reply #3 on:** February 10, 2006, 09:46:03 am »

I wouldn't bother since you'll never see it anyway.

Chris · « **Reply #4 on:** February 10, 2006, 10:56:20 am »

My cabinet is a real Konami cabinet; the T-molding wraps around and goes about an inch underneath the bottom and stops.

--Chris

ahofle · « **Reply #5 on:** February 10, 2006, 11:08:03 am »

I put T Molding on the bottom, although my cab is on caster wheels. It wasn't much extra work or molding, so why not. It just looks a little cleaner and offers a bit of extra protection to the MDF from nicks and gashes.

wrench · « **Reply #6 on:** February 10, 2006, 09:18:40 pm »

I did the back and bottom edges of my cab.Not really for looks but for the extra protection from anything catching the edge of my laminate and causing damage .

Excretious · « **Reply #7 on:** February 10, 2006, 09:54:33 pm »

WRENCH, by no means do i wish to hijack this thread but please tell me how you did your paint job. I am painting my cabinet at the moment and want my black to turn out like yours.

AMDman13 · « **Reply #8 on:** February 11, 2006, 12:51:43 am »

Excretious
I think he has laminate.

Allright after "perfecting" my routing skills on scrap wood

I have to say my 3/32" from www.mlcswoodworking.com either stinks or I'm doing something wrong. The T-molding just slides right in. There is no compression or need for a mallet. (Which means it just falls out) I have quadruple checked that the blade is spinning the correct way. Could I be doing something wrong or am I going to have the glue the whole thing? Oh this T-molding is from T-molding.com

Also does the T-molding get installed where the CP rests or do I just meet it and then pick up again once the monitor angle begins?

Thanks everyone for helping a Newbie!

vizzinni · « **Reply #9 on:** February 11, 2006, 06:20:04 am »

I think the conventional wisdom is to use a 1/16" slot cutter for the t-molding. There's probably a few different ways to proceed, some sort of glue being one of them.

fatfingers · « **Reply #10 on:** February 11, 2006, 08:49:49 am »

Indeed, 1/16" is what t-molding.com suggested I use.

Mark70 · « **Reply #11 on:** February 11, 2006, 09:07:44 am »

I have a similar layout. My side panels sit 3" off the floor and you see a "toe kick" lick you would on kitchen cabinets on mine. I ran the t-molding under because the edge of it is slightly visible when you look along flat to the side. You notice the end where you cut it off. Mine meet at a fairly tight seam underneath. Nice place to hide the start/stop.

AMDman13 · « **Reply #12 on:** February 11, 2006, 10:00:08 am »

Quote

Indeed, 1/16" is what t-molding.com suggested I use.

Dang! I see that now... Looks like I should have read a little more.. 3/32" for 3/32" T-molding thought it would be perfect.

This project sure nickel and dimes ya to death.

Looks like I will be calling some local woodworking shops to try and find a 1/16". I just don't want to fuss with glueing the whole thing. (Too messy)

Now I'm still not sure if the T-molding gets installed where the CP rests or do I just meet it and then pick up again once the monitor angle begins?

Thanks guys!

Mark70 · « **Reply #13 on:** February 11, 2006, 11:58:08 am »

Quote from: marlborroman13 on February 11, 2006, 10:00:08 am

Quote
Indeed, 1/16" is what t-molding.com suggested I use.

Dang! I see that now... Looks like I should have read a little more.. 3/32" for 3/32" T-molding thought it would be perfect. This project sure nickel and dimes ya to death.

Looks like I will be calling some local woodworking shops to try and find a 1/16". I just don't want to fuss with glueing the whole thing. (Too messy)

Now I'm still not sure if the T-molding gets installed where the CP rests or do I just meet it and then pick up again once the monitor angle begins?

Thanks guys!

A = depends on your cabinet design
B = Mine stops where the CP sits and starts again under.

AMDman13 · « **Reply #14 on:** February 11, 2006, 01:31:18 pm »

Quote

A = depends on your cabinet design
B = Mine stops where the CP sits and starts again under.

The cabinet that I am building is the Lusid's design in "Project Arcade" book.

Franco · « **Reply #15 on:** February 11, 2006, 01:44:40 pm »

|I really dont see the point in t-moulding a cab all the way underneath. Once its on the floor the bottom isnt gonna get damaged unless your planning on relocating it.

subcriminal · « **Reply #16 on:** February 12, 2006, 11:09:11 am »

Do it properly

Route all the way round and t-mold all the way round.

wrench · « **Reply #17 on:** February 12, 2006, 11:59:14 am »

Excretious: marlborroman13 is correct my cab is laminated and not painted

Franco: "
|I really don't see the point in t-moulding a cab all the way underneath. Once its on the floor the bottom isn't going get damaged unless your planning on relocating it."

in my own opinion the one time you go to shift your cab an inch or two and the laminate catches the carpet and peels loose or cracks you are going to really wish you had spent the extra couple bucks and a few minutes to put the t-molding all the way around.

marlborroman13 as for your t-molding dilemma,it sounds like you did the right thing and practiced on a scrap piece first so probably the easiest thing is to get the right size slot cutter, http://www.t-moulding.com/cart/customer/home.php
http://www.specialtytools.com/cgi-bin/web_store/web_store.cgi?page=t_mold/tmolding.html&cart_id=4248281_10833
are a couple good sources

if you have already cut the slots in the cab then your best bet is to buy a larger t-moulding which uses a wider slot and trim the extra with an edge trimmer,I used this one
http://www.specialtytools.com/cgi-bin/web_store/web_store.cgi?page=t_mold/tnet93.html&cart_id=4248281_10833

as for the cp,I ran mine to the bottom of the cp and picked up again at the top edge of the cp/monitor slant

Mark70 · « **Reply #18 on:** February 12, 2006, 04:10:57 pm »

The cabs we're talking about don't sit on the "underneath" edge that is t-moulded.

Check out my project thread.

I'll have a loook a lusids's cab. though I'd encourage you to go with a different design. Some it is kind of Mortal Kombat, NFL blitz - esque, but I think it looks pregnant. I like the classic designs better. Just my personal opinion. And BTW I applaud lusid for making his plans so available.

wrench · « **Reply #19 on:** February 12, 2006, 10:00:13 pm »

my cab does not sit directly on the floor either.It's 2-3 inches above the floor with wheel castor's recessed up under the bottom.Most of my initial ideas for cab design came from www.arcadeparadise.com ,arcade paradise 3 design which is somewhat based from the lucid design. I altered the arcade paradise 3 design to my size requirements and added a few features like a front fold down panel with a pull out keyboard tray which is why my cp section looks a bit thicker.I also made the cp detachable so the cab can fit through a standard door frame with the cp removed

AMDman13 · « **Reply #20 on:** February 12, 2006, 10:44:07 pm »

Thanks wrench for clearing up the under and behind CP t-molding issue. I really appreciate it! I plan on buying the 1/16th bit and route next weekend. A few extra dollars, but whats 12.00 when I'm already buried in expense anyway! (Don't tell my wife)

Heck untill then I 'll just continue to practice with the 3/32" on my scrap pile..

Today was a pretty good day. I finished the base with casters and installed the first side panel!

Thanks to everyone for the great input and feedback!

Hey Wrench how much did the laminate set you back?? I still think that it gives the best finish! I called HD and the estimate was about 80.00 for 2 4'x8' sheets.

wrench · « **Reply #21 on:** February 13, 2006, 08:19:35 pm »

My hd didn't carry crap in laminates,I had a lowes that had a very limited selection.They didn't even have a basic black.lowes said they could special order any brand or pattern I wanted but it ran close to $80 a sheet.I wound up buying from
http://www.cabinetparts.com/shop_2006/categories/?SID=1104368036.32673&cat=329
I bought 6 4x8 sheets, as I'm building 2 cabs.The 2nd being for my neighbor who was the one that dragged me into this project(that one is about to be started,my unheated Chicago garage is still too cool to work in,just right for beer though).Anyway the 6 sheets averaged about $45 a sheet including shipping.They sell wilsonart and nevamar brand and you can have samples of any pattern sent before ordering.I did notice something with the shipping prices.There are 2 thicknesses in the laminate.I ordered the thinner one,supposedly made for upright surfaces,the thicker one is for horizontal surfaces.there is a big shipping differential between them.The thinner stuff I ordered came rolled up,I'm guessing the thicker one either can't be rolled or can't be rolled as tight,hence a larger package and more shipping costs.


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