Main Restorations Software Audio/Jukebox/MP3 Everything Else Buy/Sell/Trade
Project Announcements Monitor/Video GroovyMAME Merit/JVL Touchscreen Meet Up Retail Vendors
Driving & Racing Woodworking Software Support Forums Consoles Project Arcade Reviews
Automated Projects Artwork Frontend Support Forums Pinball Forum Discussion Old Boards
Raspberry Pi & Dev Board controls.dat Linux Miscellaneous Arcade Wiki Discussion Old Archives
Lightguns Arcade1Up Try the site in https mode Site News

Unread posts | New Replies | Recent posts | Rules | Chatroom | Wiki | File Repository | RSS | Submit news

  

Author Topic: CP and t-molding questions  (Read 1324 times)

0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.

Mike

  • Trade Count: (0)
  • Full Member
  • ***
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 307
  • Last login:September 22, 2005, 01:22:14 pm
  • Umm, yea about the TPS report
CP and t-molding questions
« on: February 13, 2003, 08:43:34 am »
I rebuilt my control panel last night and I'm debating on how to go ahead with it. Basically I got the top part and the sides built and put together. It's a 6-sided control panel, so basically a rectangle with a trapezoid on the front. I guess that is the best way to describe the shape. Anyways my question is on people who have a similar shaped control panel did you attach the under board to the control panel and put the hinge between it and the cabinet or did you attach the under peice to the cabinet and put the hinge on the front of the under peice and to the front side peice of the control panel? I hope that makes sense. If I attach the underpeice to the control panel I will have trouble getting to my trackball and spinner. If I attach it to the front of the control panel I don't know if it will be strong enough. So that is where my dilemma is.

Next question has anyone came up with a good way to attach t-molding to a cabinet where it's started to split a little bit? I tried wood glue and it didn't work well. I also tried liquid nails it worked better than the wood glue but still not great.

Thanks for any help.

rampy

  • *shrug*
  • Trade Count: (+1)
  • Full Member
  • ***
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 2910
  • Last login:March 02, 2007, 11:32:16 am
  • ...as useless as a JPG is to Helen Keller
    • Build Your Own PVR
Re:CP and t-molding questions
« Reply #1 on: February 13, 2003, 10:06:28 am »

Next question has anyone came up with a good way to attach t-molding to a cabinet where it's started to split a little bit? I tried wood glue and it didn't work well. I also tried liquid nails it worked better than the wood glue but still not great.

Thanks for any help.

by split... you mean separate from the wood, right?

Most people use a hot glue gun to help wedge/hold t-molding into place when the slot/groove is too wide/worn out.

Is it happening on corners? If so perhaps you didn't install it with some the tricks to make transversing corners easier? (just a thought)

good luck,

rampy

DeathMonk

  • Trade Count: (0)
  • Full Member
  • ***
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 362
  • Last login:April 03, 2015, 02:01:12 pm
    • MameStation.3
Re:CP and t-molding questions
« Reply #2 on: February 13, 2003, 10:17:59 am »
I'm not so sure I fully understand your first question..  It sounds like your debating on hinging the whole cp rather than just the top?  I attatched my cp's base using 4 lag bolts into the 2x4 frame, then just used "L" shaped brackets to put the top on.  Suprisingly, it's really easy to dissasemble, but it only works if you have a keyboard opening/slide to access you nuts.. heheh.. I said nuts


Now with cup beer holders!