DB25 parallel switchbox questions.

[Tiger-Heli]

I am building multiple desktop control panels which can be used separately or together (picture 5 X-Box Solos http://www.xgaming.com and using as many as required) and you're close to the idea.

Each panel will use a DB25 connector and the encoder will be mounted in a project box with mating DB25 ports.

A parallel swithbox such as http://www.bonuscable.com/product_info.php?products_id=1207 looks like it would be ideal for this and save me drilling and cutting holes in the project box to mount the ports.

Aside from no dimensions being shown, I have the following questions about these devices (if anyone here knows):

I have also seen the older, boxier switchboxes.

If I open one up, would there be ribbon cables or bare wire coming off the back side of the input (or output) ports that I could run to the encoder, or would it connect to a header board on a PCB?

Would you expect all the terminals to be wired up, or would only some terminals be connected?

I am not a big soldering fan!  

[SirPoonga]

I guess I don't see why you need the port switcher.  I don;t and I have removable panels.

I just have a plug coming formt eh ipac to a db25 connector then a the other half of the connector to the CP.  

[eightbit]

I think I see what he's asking, he's not looking for a port switcher. He basically wants a db25 hub.

Tiger I think your going to be dissapointed. Those plugs are going to be soldered into a circuit board and that circuit board is not a straight through connection. Its going to have circuitry in it to deal with sharing printers.

Though for $8 it might make a good project box that you could replace the guts with your own plugs.

Why do you want 5 players?

[BeBoxer]

I'm just using ethernet cables myself. Standard UTP cable has 8 conductors, enough for a joystick and three buttons. That right there will play a lot of games. For the ones that require more inputs, either due to two joysticks or more than three buttons, I'll just use two cables. The nice thing about this route is that ethernet cables are common, easy to make, and not too obtrusive. I thought about using a cable with a higher conductor count, but they get bulky fast. And I have easy access to old ethernet cabling.

[Tiger-Heli]

Close.  Not actually a hub as each terminal on the ports will go to a different input on the encoder.  But I was planning to rewire the innards anyway.

Tiger I think your going to be dissapointed. Those plugs are going to be soldered into a circuit board and that circuit board is not a straight through connection. Its going to have circuitry in it to deal with sharing printers.

That's what I was afraid of.  I was hoping it might have ribbon cables going to the circuit board that I could cut and hijack to my encoder.

Though for $8 it might make a good project box that you could replace the guts with your own plugs.

I thought that also

Why do you want 5 players?

Ummmn, because I can . . .  because the encoder supports that many . . .

It's not five players as much as five panels (in planning, at least) . . . the solo was just an example to show the basic concept.

There are two panels similar to the Solo, one panel similar to the HotRod with rotary joysticks, and two panels with two trigger-fire sticks for Assault and Vindicators.  And spinners and trackballs, but those will be standalone USB.

[BeBoxer]

I'm just using ethernet cables myself. Standard UTP cable has 8 conductors, enough for a joystick and three buttons. That right there will play a lot of games. For the ones that require more inputs, either due to two joysticks or more than three buttons, I'll just use two cables. The nice thing about this route is that ethernet cables are common, easy to make, and not too obtrusive. I thought about using a cable with a higher conductor count, but they get bulky fast. And I have easy access to old ethernet cabling.

[BeBoxer]

There are two panels similar to the Solo, one panel similar to the HotRod with rotary joysticks, and two panels with two trigger-fire sticks for Assault and Vindicators.  And spinners and trackballs, but those will be standalone USB.

Sounds like you're doing exactly what I'm doing. Have you got any pics up? And have you picked out your Assault sticks yet? I was hoping to be able to use the dual-stick panel for both Assault and Robotron/SmashTV, but I'm not sure how well that will work. I think Robotron will really want a Happ Super-style 8-way (no corners on the restrictor) and Assault is going to want 4-way. I suspect Assault would be painful to play with 8-way sticks.

Anyway, I've got some pics up of my encoder box and my first controller up. I'm in the process of building a 6 button fighter controller now. It's built, but needs paint and wiring. Take a look.http://www.themitchells.org/xmame

[Tiger-Heli]

There are two panels similar to the Solo, one panel similar to the HotRod with rotary joysticks, and two panels with two trigger-fire sticks for Assault and Vindicators.  And spinners and trackballs, but those will be standalone USB.

Sounds like you're doing exactly what I'm doing. Have you got any pics up? And have you picked out your Assault sticks yet? I was hoping to be able to use the dual-stick panel for both Assault and Robotron/SmashTV, but I'm not sure how well that will work. I think Robotron will really want a Happ Super-style 8-way (no corners on the restrictor) and Assault is going to want 4-way. I suspect Assault would be painful to play with 8-way sticks.

Anyway, I've got some pics up of my encoder box and my first controller up. I'm in the process of building a 6 button fighter controller now. It's built, but needs paint and wiring. Take a look.http://www.themitchells.org/xmame

Nothing to take pics of yet.  There's a WIP of the project at http://www.fraggersxtreme.com/arcadepanels/  Scroll down to about the middle of the main page for the concept sketches.  Some things have changed, but you'll get the basic idea.

Assault sticks are Gravis Destroyer PC joystick handles mounted to Happ Supers.  OSCAR restrictors will be used for Assault and BattleZone, etc.

[Tiger-Heli]

Related question while I have this thread open. . .

I am planning to use split DB25 cables to attach the panels.  Assuming I scrap the switchbox idea or I completely gut the switchbox and go with my own panel, I have the following quesition:

The molded cables will probably have about a 2-inch deep hood around the connector.  I know I could cut the cable about 6 inches back and run the wires to the encoder, but I would prefer to have less depth in order to use a smaller project box.  Is there any way to remove the hood without destroying the wires inside?

[BeBoxer]

Related question while I have this thread open. . .

I am planning to use split DB25 cables to attach the panels.  Assuming I scrap the switchbox idea or I completely gut the switchbox and go with my own panel, I have the following quesition:

The molded cables will probably have about a 2-inch deep hood around the connector.  I know I could cut the cable about 6 inches back and run the wires to the encoder, but I would prefer to have less depth in order to use a smaller project box.  Is there any way to remove the hood without destroying the wires inside?

If the wires are molded into the hood, probably not. However, crimp-on DB25 ends of various styles are readily available and cheap. Something like this. Basically, you use a special tool to just smash the wire down into the groove. Really simple, and you could make it quite a bit flatter than a hooded cable.

http://www.cinch.com/products/d_subs/wire_termination/t_idc/index.html

[Tiger-Heli]

If the wires are molded into the hood, probably not. However, crimp-on DB25 ends of various styles are readily available and cheap. Something like this. Basically, you use a special tool to just smash the wire down into the groove. Really simple, and you could make it quite a bit flatter than a hooded cable.

Yeah, I've seen DB25 IDC (insulation displacement connectors) and these would be perfect.  Solder cups would work also, but I hate soldering.

Problem is I need 4 of them and at $3 each, with shipping, this adds $20 to the project.  If I can find them at Radio Shack, or I can order them when I order my wire and spade connectors, I'll probably pick some up.

OTOH, I mangled a DB25 to DB9 adapter last night (an old one with about 6 inches of cable between the two ends) with fairly good results.

Before I started, the cable required about 2.5 inches of back depth.  I cut the hooded shield off the cable and found the wires wrapped in foil and embedded in some kind of plastic/wax underneath the hood.  However, with the hood removed, the connector only required 1.25 inches of back depth.

I'll probably order an extra DB25 cable for testing if I don't use the IDC or solder cup connectors.