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Author Topic: >>BLACKOUT<< A Year in the life.  (Read 32661 times)

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MYX

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>>BLACKOUT<< A Year in the life.
« on: January 07, 2006, 05:06:46 pm »
Hey all,
Here is my first draft of my CPO. I have included my CP Sketcher button layout on the second one. My idea is that the right player has button # 7 below to act as hyperspace / shield for Gravitar or Asteroids type layout. The left upper button is for Vanguard. I always liked vanguard but I really suck at it.

For the design, I tried to capture the feeling of 80's machines in general. It's kind of like an a abstract version of a space invader / galaga / what ever. My intention is to also make a stencle for this and then do a spray version on the side of the cabinet. I really like the look of the old williams games.

I may move the player 1 & 2 buttons up  and add a spinner off to the left of them. The player 1 & 2 buttons will also be mouse buttons. (Can I do that?)

All buttons will be translucent. <-- EDIT That was untill GGG Ice came out.
« Last Edit: April 18, 2010, 05:12:54 pm by MYX »
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arcadefever

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Re: MYX Machine CPO Idea #1
« Reply #1 on: January 07, 2006, 05:22:14 pm »
 :o that really nice,
i will like to see how it may look like with yellow buttons  ::)
have you tried?

MYX

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Re: MYX Machine CPO Idea #1
« Reply #2 on: January 07, 2006, 05:32:09 pm »
Well here is yellow buttons, but I am not sure about that. I was considering going with all red buttons and having the 1 & 2 be blue.
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arcadefever

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Re: MYX Machine CPO Idea #1
« Reply #3 on: January 07, 2006, 06:15:20 pm »
look good too, i love that design cant wait to see the all project done  ;D

JonnyBoy

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Re: MYX Machine CPO Idea #1
« Reply #4 on: January 07, 2006, 06:20:54 pm »
I would put the buttons a tad closer together. The artwork looks great. Before settling I would try a mockup.
I had to beat them to death with their own shoes...

MYX

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Re: MYX Machine CPO Idea #1
« Reply #5 on: January 07, 2006, 07:18:49 pm »
I made a desktop CP that I liked, but the spacing was a little too close together. I need to look at CP Sketcher and make the grid smaller so I can scoot them a little closer and still keep the allignment.
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JonnyBoy

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Re: MYX Machine CPO Idea #1
« Reply #6 on: January 07, 2006, 07:20:30 pm »
Yeah, different strokes for different folks. Good luck with your project, the art kicks some serious butt.
I had to beat them to death with their own shoes...

MYX

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Re: MYX Machine (no official title as of yet)
« Reply #7 on: January 16, 2006, 10:28:39 pm »
So, I started the actual build. It is a bit humbeling when you are actually doing the build. I have watched so many people on this board build these things and I keep thinking how can it take so long?!? Well know I know. I had help getting the big pieces cut but have been going solo ever since. Today I learned how to split wood right down the center. I guess it is the nature of MDF to split so easily. Back to the saw and had to cut some more pieces. Part of me is thinking that I should be building the base out of ply.

I am taking a couple of ideas from my TAITO QIX cabinet. I am going to run a channel down both side pieces of the cabinet. It will be 1/4 in deep. Then when it is joined with the base I should get extra strength due to the extra contact, and it should be square (assuming my channel is square). I will also be channeling the top piece. When the MDF and wood glue dry I will essentialy have a solid MDF box to work from. I will have L brackets as well for extra strength. Here is the progress so far. I was hoping to have much more completed by the end of the weekend, but oh well.
 
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c64rulez

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Re: MYX Machine (no official title as of yet)
« Reply #8 on: January 17, 2006, 02:11:30 am »
Hey MYX,
That retro style cp is looking great.
Take your time with the build. I found this forum only after I've almost completed building my cab (just the box).
After I found this forum, there seems to be an unexplainable eegerness  ;) to make fast progress so I can pile up my posts...
If I would have found this forum earlier, well, I don't even want to think about it  ;D

Your plans for the cabinet structure will indeed give you a solid build.
Keep up the good work and don't rush anything.


MYX

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Re: MYX Machine (no official title as of yet)
« Reply #9 on: January 27, 2006, 10:54:02 pm »
Well, I am happy. I actually got to work on the cab tonight.
I guess it is my own fault, I wanted a lot of curves on this thing. I did not want any sharp corners.

So I was mister scroll saw tonight and I made a mockery of anything that was actually to be considered straight. After a lot of shaping I finally got it to come into to a nice form. The sander really does nice work to mdf. One near casualty. I was cutting the scoop for the monitor area and the cutting started to slow down. I applied more pressure and it became easier again. When the piece cut free I realized the reason for the slow down. Tomorrow, I will clamp the other side to this and route it into shape.
« Last Edit: January 27, 2006, 10:57:27 pm by MYX »
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MYX

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Re: MYX Machine (no official title as of yet)
« Reply #10 on: January 27, 2006, 10:54:28 pm »
more pix
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Re: MYX Machine (no official title as of yet)
« Reply #11 on: January 28, 2006, 05:57:57 am »
The cab is progressing nicely. Funny that you cut through your saw horse!  ;D
Since you seem to be a fan of the 80's games, I suggest that you put another offset button close to the Player 1 stick to emulate the Defender/Stargate "reverse" button.
Your player 2 buttons 2 & 3 then can be mapped as thrust and fire, button 4 as smart bomb and your offset player 2 button as hyperspace. I did that on my panel, and it matches the Defender layout pretty nicely, though its a little more spread out.

MYX

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Re: MYX Machine (no official title as of yet)
« Reply #12 on: January 28, 2006, 09:52:46 am »
I have been tinkerng with the lay out and trying different button placements because I think Jonnyboy is right  about getting the buttons closer together. I have a reverse stagger that I am leaning towards which will get a button closer to the thumb area so I can do just that. Also lets me use my thumb for battlezone. Although I may make a hand held button like I saw on another post. This way you can hold the thumb trigger in your hand and fire more normally. (sorry and thinking out loud in my response). Also thinking about using an 1/8 or 1/4 in audio jack to plug and un plug the extra wired button. The hole will go under the cp.
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Original BLACKOUT thread - http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=48239.0

MYX

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Re: MYX Machine (no official title as of yet)
« Reply #13 on: January 28, 2006, 08:54:32 pm »
Saturdays work...
I got to use my router for the first time today. Holy Cow what a great tool. I started by doing a rough cut with the jig saw. Then I used a lamanant bit on the router and just traced the side I cut out yesterday. It mowed through the second side MDF like it was nothing. I thought that there might be marks or divits. It was just as smooth as the first side. It was too easy. With this confidence I went on to cut the slots for the t-molding. It was just as easy. My only gripe is that one has to love the tase of MDF if he undertakes this hobby. That dust went everywhere. I soon grabbed a face mask and continued. After much procrastinating I decided to try cutting my first channle for the base plate. It needed to be 1/4 in deep and 3/4 in wide. I clamped a board to the surface to act as a guide. I took a deep breath (this is the part I have been fearing since I decided to build it this way). It was easy. The line was perfectly straight minus a couple of divits when I stopped paying attention. It was a perfect size. I set the base in the channle and it fit great. I then did the other cab side and it went well as well. I then did a channle for the top boards. At this point it was getting dark and a little cold, so I called it a day. This is so much fun.  ;D
« Last Edit: January 28, 2006, 08:59:59 pm by MYX »
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MYX

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Re: MYX Machine (no official title as of yet)
« Reply #14 on: January 28, 2006, 08:55:45 pm »
Sat part 2
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TravistyOJ

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Re: MYX Machine (no official title as of yet)
« Reply #15 on: January 29, 2006, 12:06:11 am »
Lookin good man, keep up the good work :)  I want to play it sometime
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Re: MYX Machine (no official title as of yet)
« Reply #16 on: January 29, 2006, 02:26:33 am »
Love those round curves. Profile looks great.
Router is indeed great. Just remember to treat it everytime like it's the first. It's the one tool that creeps me every time I'm using it.

MYX

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Re: MYX Machine (no official title as of yet)
« Reply #17 on: January 29, 2006, 06:02:09 pm »
Work for Sunday:
Put in top channle for the other cabinet side. I then routed a 1/2 in. curve on the back and bottums of both sides. on the first side when I got to where the channle was the router dipped into the channle creating a lovely crater. I just stood there and stared at it for a while. I eventually filled it with wood putty and set it asside to dry. I could not put it together today because of this so deflated I cut out the kick plate and rounded the bottom of the piece and made some side braces (rounded... I love the router) for later in the build.
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BLACKOUT  - Finally rewritten - http://blog.myxdigital.com/
Original BLACKOUT thread - http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=48239.0

MYX

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Re: MYX Machine (no official title as of yet)
« Reply #18 on: February 04, 2006, 12:03:17 am »
Friday Night...
I have been wanting to work on my cab all week long. I was getting very good at making measurements that were actually the measurments that they were supposed to be. Somehow that changed through the week. I was probably way to tired to be working or something tonight. I could not get a cut that was 25.5 in wide. This only works a couple of times before you've blown a whole sheet of MDF. Sure I can repurpose those pieces for the stuff that needs to be just a straight 25 in. It is more the frusteration of trying and trying and trying and it just keeps going wrong. To add insult to injury, I got a piece to the right size. Yeah!!! well sort of. I have a habit of needing to see how it is going to look. I put the sides, top and base together. Remember that it is channled so there is some natural strength without any glue or screws. I assembled it on its side. I got the hairbrained idea to see it standing upright. I really do not know what I was thinking but I started and lifted it to turn it sideways. MDF by nature dents and bends when dropped and it lands on a corner. Specifically the corner of the 25.5in piece that I spent so much time trying to get. Now I have a totally mashed corner, hurt pride and exhaustion from a totally F@#!ed day. So, it the spirit of keeping my sainity, I quit and rented Lord of War. Seemed to be a totally messed up movie to end the day.

Ok. weeping and nashing of teeth over. Your free to go now. I will write more later.   
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MYX

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Re: MYX Machine (no official title as of yet)
« Reply #19 on: February 04, 2006, 06:39:00 pm »
SaturDAY...
Today was much more productive and less distructive. I will post some Pix when my wife gets home with the camera. I have been frusterated not having it during last nights drama.
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missioncontrol

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Re: MYX Machine (no official title as of yet)
« Reply #20 on: February 06, 2006, 12:03:41 am »
wow I like your cabinet design and your CP artwork looks great....

are you really sure you want to do translucent buttons if your going for the 80's old style look....

to me those buttons have been a turn off for so many cabs, but to each their own....

I'd experiment with different color buttons other than blue....

that's my 2 cents....

can't wait to see more constuction pictures and to see the progress.......

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Re: MYX Machine (no official title as of yet)
« Reply #21 on: February 06, 2006, 08:41:53 pm »
Thanks MC. I think that I have actually settled for Electric Ice. This way I get psudo white and color when I want it. I am just waiting to see how the programing of MikeQ and Mahuti turn out. I will need to LEDWiz's to light it the way I want. 
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Re: MYX Machine (no official title as of yet)
« Reply #22 on: February 06, 2006, 09:17:51 pm »
I love the smell of sawdust in the morning. It smells like...cabnet making.

Ok I have form!!! it looks like a arcade cabinet cab is taking shape. I am more inspired than ever. I am findin that there are no true measurments any more. It is like 5/16's not 1/4 or 1/2. You get just enough things just a smidge too short, it adds up. Ok here are some pix. The cabinet formed and one of the rails I put on this morning for the kick plate. I also glued a guide on the actual kickplate. Tomorrow morning I will glue the kick plate to the cab. my only issue is that the left side of the kp is a smidge above the Control panel shelf while the right side is just under. looks like I will need to get crafty with the router.
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BLACKOUT  - Finally rewritten - http://blog.myxdigital.com/
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MYX

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Re: MYX Machine Updated w New Pix 02-06-06
« Reply #23 on: February 07, 2006, 09:42:02 pm »
Cab w kick plate. So many clamps.
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BLACKOUT  - Finally rewritten - http://blog.myxdigital.com/
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MYX

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Re: MYX Machine Updated w New Pix 02-07-06
« Reply #24 on: February 07, 2006, 09:43:39 pm »
Hey if this thing fails, I can turn it into an airplane.
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Re: MYX Machine Updated w New Pix 02-07-06
« Reply #25 on: February 08, 2006, 12:22:14 am »
lol

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Re: MYX Machine Updated w New Pix 02-07-06
« Reply #26 on: February 08, 2006, 09:26:02 am »
Or a boat. Noah would be proud. 

Sure I shold be actually working on it, but it is too dang cold outside and in my garrage.
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Re: MYX Machine Updated w New Pix 02-08-06
« Reply #27 on: February 10, 2006, 10:27:01 pm »
Woo hoo!!! got my monitor and bezel today. Also picked up a set of CP clamps. Still chuckin along with the building.
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Re: MYX Machine Updated w New Pix 02-10-06
« Reply #28 on: February 14, 2006, 02:45:47 am »
I say go for that boat, that airplane thing looks hydrodynamic to me  ;D
Your cab profile looks outstanding. keep it up!

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Re: MYX Machine Updated w New Pix 02-10-06
« Reply #29 on: February 14, 2006, 04:09:41 pm »
Don't forget to put the t-molding on first, before sailing.

Also, prime and paint, because the MDF will soak up the entire ocean if left untreated...

 ;D

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Re: MYX Machine Updated w New Pix 02-14-06
« Reply #30 on: February 14, 2006, 06:22:56 pm »
Ok I got the back on it now. It is looking more and more like a for real cab.  ;D

I have one issue with the back door. It is like the door is warped. I was sure it was flat. So I am not sure if the hinges are off by a smidge or what.  :P
Not something to get too concerned about as it is not that big of a bend.
« Last Edit: February 20, 2006, 10:55:47 am by MYX »
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Re: MYX Machine Updated w New Pix 02-14-06
« Reply #31 on: February 14, 2006, 06:23:58 pm »
More pix. The hinges area was routed out in several ways. I am loving the router.
« Last Edit: February 15, 2006, 08:06:42 am by MYX »
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Re: MYX Machine Updated w New Pix 02-14-06
« Reply #32 on: February 16, 2006, 09:20:39 am »
Keep up the posts.  This is looking great!

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Re: MYX Machine Updated w New Pix 02-14-06
« Reply #33 on: February 17, 2006, 05:45:10 pm »
much better than tots........... :P

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Re: MYX Machine Updated w New Pix 02-20-06
« Reply #34 on: February 20, 2006, 10:54:29 am »
I have not done a whole lot this weekend as I have been under the oppressive forces of a cold. OK, that was a little dramatic. This weenend I got a 96 inch long piece of heavy aluminum corner bracing. It is 1 in. I cut it to make a brace for my monitor. Since my monitor is going to be a vert set up, I can not just mount it on a shelf. After a lot of thinking about it and spending a lot of time in Home Depot (Oh darn  ;)) This is the solution I came up with. I cut it into 2 - 25 in and 2 20.5 in pieces. I drilled 1/4 in holes in the ends and put it together with 1/4  - 3/4 in long bolts. This was a great place for my son to help. He got to put the frame together. I did the final tightening just for saftey sake. I measured the bolt holes on the monitor it's self and put holes at 8 1/8in in from the edges. I bolted the monitor on. A little nervous I grabbed the sides and lifted up the brace. It was solid.  :D . So now I have to put 2 carage bolts through the sides of my cab for the bottom of the brace and two more at the top. The hard part right now is trying to figure out what angle I want and how to figure in bezel height, and glass. I only want to put 4 holes in the side of my cab one time.
« Last Edit: February 20, 2006, 11:08:10 am by MYX »
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Re: MYX Machine Updated w New Pix 02-21-06
« Reply #35 on: February 21, 2006, 10:09:17 am »
Ok well it turned out to be 5 holes, but wood putty is your friend. I innitially did not take the CP as a factor. I was just looking at the frame through the place the CP would be. Last night when I was just about to sleep I shot wide awake with that realization. I had only made one pilot hole just to get an idea of height and look. So this morning I made new measurments and drilled away. I used a clamp to adjust the height for the top. This way I could adjust and go and look without hands on the frame. I found what I liked then I marked it and drilled. I bolted it together and I had a happy little moment.  :D <-- you see that, that was my happy little moment. I took out the top bolts and laid the brace down horizontal and measured it level. I then took 2 wood blocks (the same type as I have been using for my corner braces) and glued them for this just below the side rails. I stole this idea from my Taito cab. This way I can unbolt the top and bottom rails, attach the monitor to them, and then lay the monitor in the cab in a hoz position. I will then bolt the rails back on and raise it into position.
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Re: MYX Machine Updated w New Pix 02-21-06
« Reply #36 on: February 22, 2006, 05:32:21 pm »
Last night when I was just about to sleep I shot wide awake with that realization. I had only made ....

Now that's something I'm familiar with   ;)

Good progress. Just wondering if that 4 bolt configuration is enough to sustain the monitor weight. Will there be any support from under the monitor ?

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Re: MYX Machine Updated w New Pix 02-21-06
« Reply #37 on: February 22, 2006, 09:09:34 pm »
On my miss pacman there are only 4 bolts. I have pushed down on it and it seems solid. I guess only time will tell.  :P
I am going to test it with the monitor tonight.
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Two steps forward, one step back (perhaps more)
« Reply #38 on: February 22, 2006, 10:43:22 pm »
So I got the monitor in to test placement and angle. It looks great. So far the brace is firm and seems secure. I am still a little nervous as that is a $180 monitor on a $17 brace.   :-\
So I was running around measuring the bottom and top to make sure it was centered and all that. Then I went to shut the door. Um the door wont shut. :o
WTF!!! I took into account for the depth of the monitor all the way back to the end of the stem. I did not take into consideration... The damn monitor frame shelf!!! The darn thing sticks 3/4 in. outside the back of the cab. I am totally befuttled. AND I DON"T EVEN USE THE WORD!
So it looks like I will be looking at a steeper angle. CRAP! I really wanted a laid back monitor. I am worried that if I have to make the angle steeper that it will be hard to look at as the monitor will be a very low vert monitor. I was too frusterated to really give it a look over tonight. I will look at it again tomorrow.
 :'(

 
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Re: MYX Machine Updated w New Pix 02-21-06
« Reply #39 on: February 22, 2006, 10:45:00 pm »
Hey if all the weight is on the brace, is that part of the shelf load bearing in any way? Can I take a saws all to it?
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Re: MYX Machine Updated w New Pix 02-22-06 with first major FU
« Reply #40 on: February 22, 2006, 11:51:12 pm »
The only thing that shelf is doing is supporting the chassis.  The shelf is bolted to the tube frame up front, so you can saw away anything at the back and it won't hurt the monitor.

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Re: MYX Machine Updated w New Pix 02-22-06 with first major FU
« Reply #41 on: February 23, 2006, 02:32:27 am »
awesome work man!  that cabinet's really coming along.  I love the hinges on the back door; I haven't seen that before and I need to do that to my dynamo cab cuz it keeps falling out and scaring me when I play. :D

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Re: MYX Machine Updated w New Pix 02-22-06 with first major FU
« Reply #42 on: February 23, 2006, 08:19:59 am »
After some sleep and some thought... I don't want to saw it but will only if I have to. It would kill any resale value if I ever decided to upgrade to a larger size and go hoz. I am going to halt progress for a couple of days to really re evaluate the set up. I am going to an arcade auction this weekend and I am going to look at a bunch of machines and get some ideas.
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Re: MYX Machine Updated w New Pix 02-22-06 with first major FU
« Reply #43 on: February 23, 2006, 10:45:20 am »
I am pissed that the auction this weekends happened to be the weekend my parents are moving.  I wish I could go to Buford HW and hire about 5 mexicanos to do the job for me....

anyways, take some secretive shots of the stuff, I'm thinking this is going to be a good one since this is the last at the lakewood center.  BTW, please see if you can figure out where they are having their next one?

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Re: MYX Machine Updated w New Pix 02-22-06 with first major FU
« Reply #44 on: February 24, 2006, 02:46:09 pm »
Hmmm. So you got a shelf mount when you needed universal mount.

Anyways, I don't see a problem with cutting that piece of the frame off.
NO MORE!!

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Re: MYX Machine Updated w New Pix 03-11-06
« Reply #45 on: March 11, 2006, 04:22:11 pm »
Finally,
I took a break from the auction games and decided to work on my cab. It is a beautiful day. Perfect tempature, lotsa sun, and more so...dry. I got a coin door at a local arcade / pin shop. they guy said that if I pulled it, I could have it for $15. It was a pain in the butt to get it out as there was no way to open the back and I could not see what I was doing. But after a lot of trying, I finally got it. $15 for a over under. That is awesome.

Today I installed the keylock for the back door of the cab. I drilled out the innitial hole, then routed the rest. Routing at a 90 degree angle is no fun. Looking back, I should have taken the door off and then routed out the lock hole. But it went fine. The hardest part was figuring out the little gizmo on the lock that determines which direction it turns. Then I routed out the the hold for the coin door. This was pretty darn easy.
 
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Re: MYX Machine Updated w New Pix 04-01-06
« Reply #46 on: April 01, 2006, 10:27:04 am »
Well a few weeks ago, I got some work done and on the same day I got a call that my grandfather passed away. :(
I had to give up the progress for a week (for good reason). So now I am back and updating this thing.
Death puts a wierd spin on everything. Actually I had no real interest in working on this thing when I got back. It has taken me about a week to get back into the swing of things.
Ok I started my CP. It is going ot be 32 in wide and 12 in deep. I put the side rails on the sides rather than on the inside of the front and rear. I decided that I wanted to put t-molding on the rails. there is a 1 in drop from the back to the front. It is a comfortable angle.
« Last Edit: April 01, 2006, 10:46:21 am by MYX »
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Re: MYX Machine Updated w New Pix 04-01-06
« Reply #47 on: April 01, 2006, 10:53:41 am »
The cp top was an item of discussion a while back. I decided to take a go at routing my CP top down to 5/8 as I can not find any anywhere around here and believe me I have checked a lot of places. People just look at me like I am crazy.
so below was the true realization that routing the 3/4 down to 5/8 is a bad idea. Well perhaps not a bad idea, but not a good idea. So the next idea was to glue a 1/8 in piece of hard board to a 1/2 in piece of MDF. This also is a bad idea as the hard board has too much flex and will not lay down. I put a half a ton of glue down on the hardboard as it had a trxture and I wanted to fill in all the little divits. I brushed it so the glue would be even. I put the MDF board down on the hard board. I noticed very quickly that the edges of the hard board would not lay down. I grabbed every heavy object I could find in the garage. This made the problem worse as now it warpped all over the place.
« Last Edit: April 01, 2006, 10:57:47 am by MYX »
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Re: MYX Machine Updated w New Pix 04-01-06
« Reply #48 on: April 01, 2006, 11:09:10 am »
Sorry to hear about your loss.  We often have a very special bond with our grandparents.




As for your CP building adventure, I am laughing with you and not at you.  ;D   Or should we cry? :'(

What do you plan to do?  If it were me, I would get some 1/2" plywood and 1/4" Lexan.  That way you have the Lexan cover and it all matches up for 3/4" T-molding around the edges.  I feel confident the 1/2" wood will be strong enough.

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Re: MYX Machine Updated w New Pix 04-01-06
« Reply #49 on: April 01, 2006, 11:11:29 am »
Reluctantly I gave in a decided to build my CP top out of 3/4 in MDF. This really hoses my idea of using plexi on top of my CP. I am going to use GGG Electric blue t molding. It would look dumb to have the CP top in black as that seems to be the only color you can get 13/16 tmolding.

I had another thought (yes it hurt). I could sand a slight bevel from the edge all the way around and still use 3/4 in tmolding. being that it is under the CP, you would not see it.

The picture is not all that great as I had to use my phone camera. (My wife has the good one and she is in Peru right now. :P)

The top tapers in by 1 inch on each side.
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Re: MYX Machine Updated w New Pix 04-01-06
« Reply #50 on: April 01, 2006, 11:20:31 am »
I have been playing around with how I want to paint on this thing. I want the sides to be consistant with the CP top. Just for grins I toop the CP top design and threw it on the sides in a rough mock up in photoshop just to see if I like it. I LOVE it. I think that I will need to scale a few things differently. I will leave out the side bracket and squish the sircle thing so it is horizontally longer and vertically thinner. I think that this thing will rock if I can pull off that paint job. I will need to make a stencil but it is not very difficult as far as shapes n such.
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Re: MYX Machine Updated w New Pix 04-01-06
« Reply #51 on: April 01, 2006, 11:28:03 am »
Sorry to hear about your loss.  We often have a very special bond with our grandparents.

What do you plan to do?  If it were me, I would get some 1/2" plywood and 1/4" Lexan.  That way you have the Lexan cover and it all matches up for 3/4" T-molding around the edges.  I feel confident the 1/2" wood will be strong enough.
Thanks Mark. I am using 2 - 49 ways and already am going to have to route into the CP top just under 1/4 in for the joys as they are so deep, plus I have a track ball (3 in) and will need to route out for that. I am worried that just 1/2 may not be strong enough.
« Last Edit: April 01, 2006, 11:35:45 am by MYX »
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Re: MYX Machine Updated w New Pix 04-01-06
« Reply #52 on: April 01, 2006, 11:43:50 am »
I'm sorry for your loss. Just two weeks ago I went to the 4th year memorial of my grandfather. I know the feeling.

And on a completely different note, I guess everything happens for a reason, and that mess you had with your cp, was just such a thing. The path you chose would probably br better.
Anyway, your cab looks great. keep it up.

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Re: MYX Machine Updated w New Pix 04-21-06
« Reply #53 on: April 20, 2006, 10:24:44 pm »
Well,
I havn't posted for a while. Between work and kids and building blah blah blah...

I also spent some time getting my new centipede a littled niced up. I had to rebuild a portion of it with bondo. The part that juts out of the body of the game right at the CP had serious water damage and had to come out. The t molding fortunatly stayed in place so I used it as a bondo guide. Worked great. Now I return you back to our normally scheduled program.
 
So Here is some catch up pix. I finally got moving on my speaker board. To help get it in place I cut the to be a tight fit. Can't take credit for the exactness of the cut, it just happened that way. I catch a break now and then. I used my rubber mallet to pound it into place and angle. I then glued some pieces behind it to the cab body. Then I trimmed off some of the wood so it would fit easier and then screwed it to the wood blocks I had glued inside. Clear as mud?

I also put up the marquee light board. Nuthin much to say bout that. Jus did it, tsall.
« Last Edit: April 21, 2006, 12:22:36 pm by MYX »
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Re: MYX Machine Updated w New Pix 04-21-06
« Reply #54 on: April 20, 2006, 10:34:07 pm »
I then went after one of the parts that I have been dreading for quite some time. The Bezel set up. This actually went much easier than I thought that it would. Either I am getting beter at this stuff or God happened to give his blessing that day. I used the monitor brace as a guide. I cut 2 boards to the height that I thought that the bezel should be. I then used those 2 boards to hold the bezel rails in place. I glued them in and after it had dried, eagerly put the bezel and glass in to see how it would look. The board was too low. So, I cut some very thin strips of mdf (somewhere between 1/16 and 1/8) thick. I glued them to the curent bezel rails. Still to low. So I added another set of strips and this time it was right. Whoopee!. Now I had to figure out how to keep the bezel and glass from slipping out. So I used another piece of angled aluminum. This stuff is great. It is easy to work with and strong. Not to mention cheap.
 
Just for artsy fartsy stuff check out the top picture. I love how you can see the reflection of the top of the cab in the glass... Oh never mind.  :P
« Last Edit: April 21, 2006, 12:22:55 pm by MYX »
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Re: MYX Machine Updated w New Pix 04-21-06
« Reply #55 on: April 20, 2006, 10:40:20 pm »
Now I am working on the CP. So many crucial choices. Crap, what is a guy supposed to do?!?
I have also got the computer going with the Arcade VGA board. This was a nightmare to get set up. It finally took a call from Andy. It was 12 am in the UK. Completly not the voice I expected from him. Cool guy though. We had to force windows to load the drivers. It was rejecting them every way I tried. We thought it was a bad board innitially. After we fought with it for a while we got it going. Thanks again Andy if you are reading this.  :cheers:

BTW here is my test bench for my cab and monitor. I figured that the air hockey table was as good of place as any.
« Last Edit: April 21, 2006, 12:23:18 pm by MYX »
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Re: MYX Machine Updated w New Pix 04-01-06
« Reply #56 on: April 21, 2006, 08:16:05 am »
I love air hockey.  We had a table when I was a kid.

Hey, what are you using as screw supports? I don't kow if that's the right term. They look like two 1x2s glued together.  Is that right? 

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Re: MYX Machine Updated w New Pix 04-01-06
« Reply #57 on: April 21, 2006, 10:54:18 am »
Wow, love the routing job you did Myx! The cabinet is looking beautiful. :)

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Re: MYX Machine Updated w New Pix 04-21-06
« Reply #58 on: April 21, 2006, 12:11:15 pm »
I love air hockey.  We had a table when I was a kid.

Hey, what are you using as screw supports? I don't kow if that's the right term. They look like two 1x2s glued together.  Is that right? 
I glued two pieces of MDF together and clamped em. Then cut the pieces to size. The intent is to put t-nuts in place. I just have to find a source.
Wow, love the routing job you did Myx! The cabinet is looking beautiful. :)
Thanks Psychopanda. Gosh that felt wierd to say. Sounds like something you would hear in a 60's movie. Thanks Psychopanda.   ;D
« Last Edit: April 21, 2006, 12:23:39 pm by MYX »
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Re: MYX Machine Updated w New Pix 04-21-06
« Reply #59 on: April 21, 2006, 12:29:30 pm »
Why not stick with your original plan of routing a 3/4" piece of wood down to 5/8" but instead of routing all of the wood's surface just route the visible area near the edge.
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Re: MYX Machine Updated w New Pix 04-21-06
« Reply #60 on: April 21, 2006, 12:43:13 pm »
Why not stick with your original plan of routing a 3/4" piece of wood down to 5/8" but instead of routing all of the wood's surface just route the visible area near the edge.

On the underside correct? Hmmmm That might work quite well. Thank you. I would probably go and get a smooth rounded groove cutter type router bit to gradiate the lower area to the higher area smoothly. 
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Re: MYX Machine Updated w New Pix 04-22-06
« Reply #61 on: April 22, 2006, 11:25:28 pm »
I am now starting to work on the marquee and tryin to come up with a name for this thing. I had initially made one (see below) that I was working with. (Made in Photoshop). Then I made my CP graphics, which really set the tone for this thing. So I am ditching the original marquee design (plus I no longer want to go with the MAME name) not that there is anything wrong with it, just not what I want. I really like Flashback but it has been used in a variety of flavors. But I do like it. I do not want anything that says cade or rama or anything like that.
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Re: MYX Machine UDWP 04-24-06
« Reply #62 on: April 24, 2006, 08:52:23 am »
I got to work on the CP yesterday. After measuring, drawing, realising that there is 3/4 in of MDF where the track ball was, erasing, redrawing, I finally was able to start routing. First I hit the area for the trackball. I drilled some holes for the screws and the TB screw sockets to make sure that when it was flat all would be cool. After the fact I thought of a bunch of better ways I could have done this. Oh well, it still got done easily. Then I started on the joystick routing. For what ever reason (ADD) I lost my mind while routing and went a little over 1/2 inch out of the line. on the player 2 Joystick. I just sat there staring at a heap of sawdust and a huge groove that ought not be there. So, I finished routing the space that should have been routed. I then did P1 without the extra bits. I tried to fix the issue with wood filler. The more I work with this stuff, the more I dislike it. It seems to shrink. After an hour of drying and shrinking, I got a screwdriver and broke it (the wood filler) out of the evil groove. I then got some bondo (gosh I love this stuff) and filled the hole. Within  several minutes I had a filled hole. This morning I went down and sanded it. Tonight I will be drilling button Holes.
« Last Edit: April 24, 2006, 08:57:03 am by MYX »
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Re: MYX Machine UDWP 04-24-06... >>Cab Name Help still Needed<<
« Reply #63 on: April 24, 2006, 08:54:00 am »
More Pix
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Re: MYX Machine UDWP 05-01-06 (Primmer Stage)
« Reply #64 on: May 01, 2006, 08:38:55 am »
Ok well I have now started into the paint stage of the game. Wow, what a long strange trip its been. I did the CP top with spray as it would be covered up anyway. I wanted to see what the difference would be with spray vs. foam roller. Frankly I am a little worried as I planned to use the foam roller for the majority of my cab. I poured a good portion of primer into my pan and started rolling the sides. 2 things that struck my were how thick the paint was and how not smooth the application was. I am going to finish the first layer of prime then sand. I am hoping that this is a primer thing and the paint will go on smoother. Oh and being that I live in Georgia (pollen capitol of the World and Canada), I decided to make a makeshift paint booth. This way I can keep sawdist and pollen out (sort of) and paint fumes in (sort of). Seemed like a good idea and seems to be working (sort of).
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Re: MYX Machine UDWP 05-01-06 (Primmer Stage)
« Reply #65 on: May 01, 2006, 08:44:26 am »
Here is a stealth picture of me painting and a somewhat primed picture.
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Re: MYX Machine UDWP 05-06-06 Artwork Tweaks
« Reply #66 on: May 06, 2006, 10:02:40 pm »
Worked on the second coat of primer today. (Sanded it yesterday). This thing that struck me today is how nice the primer was to work with. It felt much more smooth and not so thick. I thing I might have gotten a bum can of primer or something. anyway it went well.

Tonight I started zeroing in on the art. Since the CP has already been shaped and drilled I modded the CP art to match. I had originally used CPDesigner to lay this out. I then took that and mad the original artwork. When I went to start drilling and shaping I had a real scale thing to work with and visualize with. so my layout changed somewhat. So tonight I put into Photoshop what my actual panel is. Now I am not sure if my original design will work. I am still tinking with it though. I am definatly going to be using this color scheme with this type of design, I just may have to change it a bit.

So, below is my updated art  and a second one with the stuff on it.
« Last Edit: May 06, 2006, 10:04:45 pm by MYX »
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Re: MYX Machine "BLACKOUT" Marquee Almost Done...Comments?
« Reply #67 on: May 25, 2006, 11:30:05 pm »
I spent the past 2 nights working on this. I think that this is where I am settled on, but would like your comments.
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Re: MYX Machine "BLACKOUT" Marquee Almost Done...Comments?
« Reply #68 on: May 26, 2006, 11:11:54 am »
Hmm, I like the first one "with flares". The blue lines bug me a little though, not alot but just a little. Have you tried some different line colors just to see.

Overall it's a very impressive marquee design.  :)

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Re: MYX Machine "BLACKOUT" Marquee Almost Done...Comments?
« Reply #69 on: May 26, 2006, 11:29:47 am »
That side-art in Photoshop looks cool.

Of the marquees, I like them in order - the bottom one best, the middle second, the top least.

They're all really cool, though!
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Re: MYX Machine "BLACKOUT" Marquee Almost Done...Comments?
« Reply #70 on: May 26, 2006, 06:39:01 pm »
I agree with Tiger-Hele.  I like the bottom one the most.

Very cool font.  What is it?

The style of the marquee does not match the 80's Williams side art.  I wonder if you could jazz up the side art to better go with the marquee, keeping with the same color scheme.  You could also simplify the marquee to match the side art, but I prefer the feel of the marquee style.

Just my 2 cents.

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Re: MYX Machine "BLACKOUT" Marquee Almost Done...Comments?
« Reply #71 on: May 26, 2006, 08:11:05 pm »
I started with the same style as the CP and sides. It just did not groove with the title BLACKOUT. I finally got rid of the red/orange bars. I am not necessarily liking the blue lines at the botom either. I had it on the CP and the side art so I felt that it should somehow play into the marquee as well. The side art will be a custom stencil that I will be cutting. It would be near impossible to do the marquee. (Computer artist by day...Moron with a spray can at night). I had tried a crome outline, but I eventually scrapped it as I like the stark blackness. 
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Re: MYX Machine "BLACKOUT" Marquee Almost Done...Comments?
« Reply #72 on: May 27, 2006, 01:35:09 am »
I'm loving this cabinet! Good work MYX.

As for the marquee... am I the only one who has a hard time reading it? I love the name blackout - I like the song by Head PE too. I also like the color scheme. I think it's the K thats throwing me off.

It may not be an issue for you, but at my house a lot of people play the arcade game. I have a small mame logo and I have to explain to non-gamers what it is a lot. If I could go back and do it over again - I wouldn't have the logo. So, I'd make sure it's readable to everyone so you don't have to explain what it says to everyone. On the other hand, it's your cabinet and you can do what you want.

Either way... it's looking great!

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Re: MYX Machine "BLACKOUT" Marquee Almost Done...Comments?
« Reply #73 on: May 28, 2006, 04:47:29 pm »
Well, if you're gonna go and throw "Blackout" up there, there's really only one thing you HAVE to add to it.
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Re: MYX Machine "BLACKOUT" Marquee Almost Done...Comments?
« Reply #74 on: May 31, 2006, 10:11:26 pm »
Well, if you're gonna go and throw "Blackout" up there, there's really only one thing you HAVE to add to it.
yeah, poor mr. Schenker. That forking accident almost cost him his forking career.

I'm loving this cabinet! Good work MYX.

As for the marquee... am I the only one who has a hard time reading it? I love the name blackout - I like the song by Head PE too. I also like the color scheme. I think it's the K thats throwing me off.
Yeah I was going to put it up and see if it was just me. Yeah the K is bothering me too. It is a font. I have thought about retooling the K but I can not see how to keep the joystick knob themed letters and have K as well. I will play with my joystick :P and come back with more ideas.
« Last Edit: May 31, 2006, 10:17:42 pm by MYX »
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Re: MYX Machine "BLACKOUT" >>TRAGEDY STRIKES<<
« Reply #75 on: June 03, 2006, 07:45:42 pm »
So I got to do some work on my cab. I painted it black. I then sanded it. Paint sure does go on nicer than primer.
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Re: MYX Machine "BLACKOUT" >>TRAGEDY STRIKES<<
« Reply #76 on: June 03, 2006, 08:00:42 pm »
So I fully sanded the thing and put in my heat vent. All was going well. Too well...(Drama thrown in for effect)
So I fully dusted it and got the floor swept and all dust gone in my little paint booth. I was set to do my final coat of black. I decided to put the cab up on saw horses so I could get more of it at eye level. I leaned it back and set the top on one saw horse. I had it turned narrow so it would not flip backwards and over. I lifted the bottom with the other saw horse infront of me so I could push it into place with my foot when I got it lifted. I have done this several times without issue. BUT! Apparently paint makes surfaces very slick and I was not ready for this. The whole thing slipped right off the sawhorse and went crashing onto the floor (slow motion of the side and the top vibrating apart and another board flying away). After a scream and a violent throwing of my closest sawhorse, I walked out of the garage with a sick stomach and nearly in tears. (Sorry if that is just not manly). I have been working on that SOB for 5 full months now. I could not go in to see the tru extent of the damage for a little while. I finally got my nerve up. The left side of the cabinet for the most hurts. The top was glued into a channel (see early posts in the thread). The wood split straight up to the top. So the side rail has the slot for t-molding the about 1/8th of wood then the split. Front to back. Completely seperated at the top. The board that was to hold the Flouressent light completely was gone. Near the back of the cab in the top left rear corner was severly dented in causing the MDF to seperate into sheets. There is many other places that have stress fractures too.   :cry:
« Last Edit: June 03, 2006, 08:30:39 pm by MYX »
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Re: MYX Machine "BLACKOUT" >>TRAGEDY STRIKES<<
« Reply #77 on: June 03, 2006, 08:25:46 pm »
Ok so after pulling myself back together I started gluing the leafs of MDF back together. I figured that it would be better to start with rebuilding strength before trying to re-attach the top, back and side. I spread the leaves apart and put as much glue in there as I could get. I clamped it hard. After about a half hour I drenched the cravass with glue all the way from the front to the back. I used a paint mixer stick to spread the glue so both sides were solidly covered. I then clamped with 36 in clamps at the very front and very back. slowly I tightened the clamps and brought the top, and back together with the side. I put flathead screwdrivers into the t-molding and then clamped the full 3/4 in. This way pressure could be put asross the whole piece. I then spent the next 15 minutes wiping up glue drippings.
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Re: MYX Machine "BLACKOUT" >>TRAGEDY STRIKES<<
« Reply #78 on: June 03, 2006, 08:29:51 pm »
Down on the left side on the corner that will support the CP, that MDF has split but it is still tight. I am trying to decide if I want to split it further and reglue it or to leave it as is and just t-mold it. If I do not split it, it will always be weak. 
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Re: MYX Machine "BLACKOUT" >>TRAGEDY STRIKES<<
« Reply #79 on: June 03, 2006, 08:38:52 pm »
On a different note, I worked sumore on the marquee (seeing as I WASN'T PAINTING  >:().
I was playing around with different colors. I really like the blue direction.
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Re: MYX Machine "BLACKOUT" >>TRAGEDY STRIKES<<
« Reply #80 on: June 03, 2006, 09:01:28 pm »
Dude, that sucks. Good luck getting everything back together.
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Re: MYX Machine "BLACKOUT" >>TRAGEDY STRIKES<<
« Reply #81 on: June 03, 2006, 09:25:48 pm »
Looking at those pictures is like watching those funny home videos where some dude gets whacked in the nuts.  I'm cringing and pressing my knees together.

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Re: MYX Machine "BLACKOUT" >>TRAGEDY STRIKES<<
« Reply #82 on: June 03, 2006, 09:26:58 pm »
Looking at those pictures is like watching those funny home videos where some dude gets whacked in the nuts.  I'm cringing and pressing my knees together.
Thank you, that made me smile.  ;D
« Last Edit: June 05, 2006, 07:43:38 am by MYX »
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Re: MYX Machine "BLACKOUT" >>TRAGEDY STRIKES<<
« Reply #83 on: June 04, 2006, 02:05:08 am »
Holy Crap! Major suckage.... You have my sympathies and I hope for a speedy recovery. This sounds like something that is later funny.

so, what have we learned here? Was the method for moving it on the horse faulty? Would some sort of safety measure prevented this?

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Re: MYX Machine "BLACKOUT" >>TRAGEDY STRIKES<<
« Reply #84 on: June 04, 2006, 06:44:54 am »
I say sue the sawhorse company for pain and suffering.  ;)
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Re: MYX Machine "BLACKOUT" >>TRAGEDY STRIKES<<
« Reply #85 on: June 04, 2006, 10:05:22 pm »
Behind every cabinet is a story and a lesson to be learned..

In years to come you will look back and still curse the slippage but then get on your machine and give it more of a workout than this little accident did.

Perserverance will reap rewards.

A Bad Day Playing Is Better Than a Good Day Working

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Re: MYX Machine "BLACKOUT" >>TRAGEDY STRIKES<<
« Reply #86 on: June 05, 2006, 04:35:55 am »
I don't even want to think about that crap.  Talk about a crappy thing to happen. :badmood:  That's one of crappiest crap things that could happen to a guy.  I would crap myself if that happened to my crap.  Crappy. :banghead:

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Re: MYX Machine "BLACKOUT" >>TRAGEDY STRIKES<<
« Reply #87 on: June 05, 2006, 07:53:31 am »
Bah! All these guys saying that sucks... I say wonderful! Now your cab has "authentic wear and tear" - just like a real arcade machine. Rejoice!

 ;D

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Re: MYX Machine "BLACKOUT" >>TRAGEDY STRIKES<<
« Reply #88 on: June 05, 2006, 08:34:52 am »
Maybe I missed it in your posts, but how did you decide to pint?  Roller or spray? Are you using latex or oil based?  Gloss, Semi-gloss?

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Re: MYX Machine "BLACKOUT" >>TRAGEDY STRIKES<<
« Reply #89 on: June 05, 2006, 09:16:27 am »
Maybe I missed it in your posts, but how did you decide to pint?  Roller or spray? Are you using latex or oil based?  Gloss, Semi-gloss?

I went with oils as most sprays are oils. I primed with Kilz tinted grey as there is apparently a limit to how much you can tint primer. I had done my first layer of black with Rustolium Satin Black (oil). Once I have everything back solid with the structure I will sand along fault lines and paint again. Once that is all done I will tape it all up and spray the side art. I will be cutting custom stencils. I am still waiting on pricing info for professionally cut stencils though. I have bought 6 colors of spray so that I can do sprayed gradients (see the photoshop mock up shown previously in the thread). 
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Re: MYX Machine "BLACKOUT" >>TRAGEDY STRIKES<<
« Reply #90 on: June 05, 2006, 09:30:07 am »
So yesturday I went down to the garage and pulled the cab outside so I could inspect it in the sun to get a better idea of any left over damage. Turns out that the other side (right) had fractured nearly front to back along the top just like the left side. I had not seen it as it was somewhat dark in the garage. It had not totally split so it was just a hairline fracture. I decided that this was very much structural, so I got my ruber mallet and lightly started hitting inside my cabtowards the right. after about 6 hits I started hearing light cracks. I kept going and then 'pop'. I looked at the fault line and it was a near perfect break (very clean). I then glued the snot out of it like I did the other side and clamped the same as well. I checked it this morning. It appeares to be solid again.

Another long crack was along the right side at the coin door board. this was harder to work on as it was still connected to the bottom as well as to the clamped top. I got a screwdriver (flathead) and pushed it into the crack. I then started pouring glue in and forcing it into the crack with my finger. This is starting to sound dirty. After I had done this for a while I clamped the sides near the top of the coin door board. I have no idea how deep the glue got.

I also glued the fractures near the t-molding slot mentioned earlier.

I am really concerned how much damage is still lurking in places that I can not see. This morning it is feeling solid, but with heat or humidity something may show up later (after it is painted).

Perhaps I should strike the BLACKOUT idea and go with GLUECADE.
M    Y    X

BLACKOUT  - Finally rewritten - http://blog.myxdigital.com/
Original BLACKOUT thread - http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=48239.0

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Re: MYX Machine "BLACKOUT" >>TRAGEDY STRIKES<<
« Reply #91 on: June 05, 2006, 12:34:31 pm »
Perhaps I should strike the BLACKOUT idea and go with GLUECADE.

Haha - go with a horse theme...

In all seriousness though, I hope it works out ok.

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Re: MYX Machine "BLACKOUT" >>TRAGEDY STRIKES<<
« Reply #92 on: June 05, 2006, 01:32:08 pm »
I laughed at your "(Sorry if that is just not manly)" comment, because I remember feeling the same way one time when I had majorly screwed something up. All I could do was just sit down and feel numb for about five minutes (and stupid! :P). I bet looking at your cab after that was like seeing a couple pints of your own blood on the floor!

Well, at least your marquee is shaping up. It looks really awesome so far. :)


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Re: MYX Machine "BLACKOUT" >>TRAGEDY STRIKES<<
« Reply #93 on: June 05, 2006, 04:39:15 pm »
Just be glad it didn't fall on you -

this could have very easily have been a CYX Memorial Thread.

Maybe this is a good thing. You've got your first ding out of the way and you can treat it like a true arcade cabinet.

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Re: MYX Machine "BLACKOUT" >>TRAGEDY STRIKES<<
« Reply #94 on: June 05, 2006, 05:09:01 pm »
hey someone at BYOAC "aged" his gaming tokens....look at it this way...you just "antiqued" your cab to be like a real cab from the 80's!

Don't fret....it's probably not as bad as you think.

Once you have the art/games going you'll get over it.

It's all part of the process screwing stuff up here and there.

 :P
Seriously. Will it fit in my basement or what?

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Re: MYX Machine "BLACKOUT" >>TRAGEDY STRIKES<<
« Reply #95 on: June 07, 2006, 03:13:22 am »
The theme here seems to be "live and learn"

At least it was nothing that totally derailed your project.
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Re: MYX Machine "BLACKOUT" >>TRAGEDY STRIKES<<
« Reply #96 on: June 08, 2006, 01:11:15 pm »

As soon as I read that part about your cab slipping a tiny voice in my head silently screamed NOOOOO.

sigh.


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Re: MYX Machine "BLACKOUT" >>TRAGEDY STRIKES<<
« Reply #97 on: June 08, 2006, 01:20:52 pm »
Gluecade lives. Clamps and elmers make the world go round. I put a new full layer of black paint on last night. I tried a more nappy roller at the recomdation of my next door neighbor. He said that it would give me a more mirror smooth finish. For the most part he is right. What I did not count on is LITTLE FRIGGIN HAIRS from the roller stuck all over the finish. Guess I will be sanding and painting again tonight. I will only be redoing the outside sides and front as it is a nice smooth surface inside and on the back and no one will really be seeing it on a regular occasion except for me.

The cab seems solid so I think I am somewhat out of the woods.
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BLACKOUT  - Finally rewritten - http://blog.myxdigital.com/
Original BLACKOUT thread - http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=48239.0

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Re: MYX Machine "BLACKOUT" >>TRAGEDY STRIKES<<
« Reply #98 on: June 08, 2006, 01:42:23 pm »
Long live GLUECADE!!! 

:applaud: (One person clapping slowly...)

 :applaud: :applaud:  (two people clapping slowly...)

 :applaud: :applaud: :applaud:  (more people clapping, getting faster...)

"You can do it!!!"

:applaud: :applaud: :applaud:  (more people clapping, getting faster...)

[Farmer Fran Mumbling Indistinct]

 :applaud: :applaud: :applaud:   :applaud: :applaud: (Even faster...)

 :applaud: :applaud: :applaud:   :applaud: :applaud: (Even faster, people cheering...)

[Vicki Vallencourt shouting: "I love you Bobby Boucher...I mean...GLUECADE!!!"

:applaud: :applaud: :applaud:   :applaud: :applaud: (Even faster, people cheering...)
« Last Edit: June 08, 2006, 08:14:41 pm by ArtMAME »
"Klaatu. .. Verada. ...... Necktie...Nectar...Nickel..."

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Re: MYX Machine "BLACKOUT" >>TRAGEDY STRIKES<<
« Reply #99 on: June 08, 2006, 06:19:24 pm »
* Gluecade  steps out into the crowd and trys to bow. The action of the bow sends the MDF into a million splinters and gluecade again comes crashing to the ground. Shed a tear for the poor little Glucade.

Ok well perhaps not.

M    Y    X

BLACKOUT  - Finally rewritten - http://blog.myxdigital.com/
Original BLACKOUT thread - http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=48239.0

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Re: MYX Machine "BLACKOUT" >>TRAGEDY STRIKES<<
« Reply #100 on: June 08, 2006, 06:45:33 pm »
Is there a Mamey for "Greatest Comeback Ever"? 8)
I'll exercise patience when you stop exercising stupidity.
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Re: MYX Machine "BLACKOUT" >>TRAGEDY STRIKES<<
« Reply #101 on: June 09, 2006, 11:11:58 am »
Congratulations on your speedy recovery.  I too cringed when I read of your mishap.  I think I've got some artwork you might consider for your marquee.  Orange & blue works.

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Re: MYX Machine "BLACKOUT" >>TRAGEDY STRIKES<<
« Reply #102 on: June 09, 2006, 01:50:04 pm »
I'm surprised those little plastic sawhorses could hold the weight of the cabinet to begin with.  Good work on the repair job.

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Re: MYX Machine "BLACKOUT" >>TRAGEDY STRIKES<<
« Reply #103 on: June 09, 2006, 01:51:13 pm »
That's funny! They could be like a sponsor.
M    Y    X

BLACKOUT  - Finally rewritten - http://blog.myxdigital.com/
Original BLACKOUT thread - http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=48239.0

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Re: MYX Machine "BLACKOUT" >>TRAGEDY STRIKES<<
« Reply #104 on: June 09, 2006, 02:30:04 pm »
YOU CAN DO IT !!!
« Last Edit: June 09, 2006, 02:32:23 pm by ArtMAME »
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Re: MYX Machine "BLACKOUT" >>TRAGEDY STRIKES<<
« Reply #105 on: June 09, 2006, 02:41:02 pm »
YOU CAN DO IT !!!

I'm almost ashamed to be punning this, but shouldn't that be:
YOU CAN GLUE IT !!!
?

:-\

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Re: MYX Machine "BLACKOUT" >>TRAGEDY STRIKES<<
« Reply #106 on: June 09, 2006, 03:02:09 pm »

YOU CAN GLUE IT !!!
YOU CAN GLUE IT ALL NIGHT LONG!!!

"Klaatu. .. Verada. ...... Necktie...Nectar...Nickel..."

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Re: MYX Machine "BLACKOUT" >>TRAGEDY STRIKES<<
« Reply #107 on: June 09, 2006, 04:24:46 pm »
Yeah Baby....Yeahhhhhh
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BLACKOUT  - Finally rewritten - http://blog.myxdigital.com/
Original BLACKOUT thread - http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=48239.0

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Re: MYX Machine "BLACKOUT" >>TRAGEDY STRIKES<<
« Reply #108 on: June 09, 2006, 04:52:36 pm »
I AM GONNA GO GLUE IT!!!
"Klaatu. .. Verada. ...... Necktie...Nectar...Nickel..."

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Re: MYX "BLACKOUT" Update w Pix 7-2-06 Massive Update
« Reply #109 on: July 02, 2006, 08:38:02 pm »
Ok, After the near demise of the cabinet, I thought that I would take things a little slower. I also decided that I would not make any posts until I reached a mile marker. This way I would not be trying to hastily make decisions I might regret later on. May sound stupid, but there were several times that I rushed through something, just so I would have pictures to post. It is partly why I couldn't wait for someone to help me lift the cab I had to do it myself...right then. Having a 6 month project nearly go to splinters right before your eyes will adjust your thinking a little.

Anyway on with the show. (Announcer voice) It is with pleasure and pride that I give you the next installment in the building of BLACKOUT.

SIDE ART P.1
If you saw on pg. 2 on this thread, I did a mock up of the sideart. I decided to take the CP theme and put it on the sides too. So, After the cab was mended and I put a fresh new coat of paint on it, I went to work on the side art. In the background of the CP is a blue haze that sort of clouds with black. This has sharp black lines that seem to dissapear into the distance. I decided to invert this for the sideart. Using 2 in painters tape I placed the first line (at the bottom). I Measured up 2 inches and placed another strip. Then I went up 1/8th of an inch short of 2 inches, then 1/4 short and on and on. Each line getting 1/8th of an inch closer together.  When I got down to a 1/8 in stripe between tape, I switched to 3/4 in painters tape. I did 3 lines at 1/8 in. Then I started expanding again at 1/8th of an inch. Being that the strips were 3/4 inch the expansion happened much faster towards the top. I did this on both sides and in the front. I then masked off the whole rest of the cab to prevent overspray. I decided to use Rust O Lium Painters Touch (Home Depot) spraypaint because there was such a beautiful range of colors available. For the lines, I used
M    Y    X

BLACKOUT  - Finally rewritten - http://blog.myxdigital.com/
Original BLACKOUT thread - http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=48239.0

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Re: MYX "BLACKOUT" Update w Pix 7-2-06 Massive Update
« Reply #110 on: July 02, 2006, 08:39:28 pm »
Speakerboard Pt. 1
I am using 5.25 in SPL speakers. I measured and started planning the speakerboard. I used a compass to draw the circles as I could not find any glasses, coffie cans, soda bottles, or anything that was 5.25 in. I wanted to not see the speaker it'sself. I wanted the classic arcade slotted hole thing. So I measured and drew that all out. In my planning, I wanted a little cavity directly below the speaker before the slots. This is for maximum airflow for the best sound possible. I did not want the speaker banging against the mdf during heated game play.
M    Y    X

BLACKOUT  - Finally rewritten - http://blog.myxdigital.com/
Original BLACKOUT thread - http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=48239.0

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Re: MYX "BLACKOUT" Update w Pix 7-2-06 Massive Update
« Reply #111 on: July 02, 2006, 08:41:14 pm »
Speakerboard Pt. 2
Routing
I decided to route freehand vs. making a template. I had to do this for the trackball body hole and felt pretty comfortable doing it that way. So, I routed the speaker side first. I went half way through the MDF. I started in the center and made my way outwards (learned that the hard way with the TB hole). I left 2 notches at 45 degree angles for something I will be doing later. I flipped the board over and then did the slots. I did use a guide for the slots. After that was all done, I spray primed and painted the speaker side of the board. The player side of the board I did a proper prime/sand and painting of.
M    Y    X

BLACKOUT  - Finally rewritten - http://blog.myxdigital.com/
Original BLACKOUT thread - http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=48239.0

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Re: MYX "BLACKOUT" Update w Pix 7-2-06 Massive Update
« Reply #112 on: July 02, 2006, 08:43:10 pm »
.
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BLACKOUT  - Finally rewritten - http://blog.myxdigital.com/
Original BLACKOUT thread - http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=48239.0

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Re: MYX "BLACKOUT" Update w Pix 7-2-06 Massive Update
« Reply #113 on: July 02, 2006, 08:45:02 pm »
CP Plexi
Again using the router (ghaw I love the router) I took off the edges of the plexi using the
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BLACKOUT  - Finally rewritten - http://blog.myxdigital.com/
Original BLACKOUT thread - http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=48239.0

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Re: MYX "BLACKOUT" Update w Pix 7-2-06 Massive Update
« Reply #114 on: July 02, 2006, 08:47:17 pm »
.
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BLACKOUT  - Finally rewritten - http://blog.myxdigital.com/
Original BLACKOUT thread - http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=48239.0

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Re: MYX "BLACKOUT" Update w Pix 7-2-06 Massive Update
« Reply #115 on: July 02, 2006, 08:47:50 pm »
.
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BLACKOUT  - Finally rewritten - http://blog.myxdigital.com/
Original BLACKOUT thread - http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=48239.0

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Re: MYX "BLACKOUT" Update w Pix 7-2-06 Massive Update
« Reply #116 on: July 02, 2006, 08:49:13 pm »
CP TB Hole Bondo
I was worried that the little void around the edge of the trackball plate and the CP. There was only a little space, but I did not know if the CPO would settle into the crack or not. So I made up a batch of bondo and schlopped it in there. Also, when the guy sent me the TB plate, he sent the wrong one. He sent hammered. I wanted just flat black. So I used the remaining bondo and schmeared it across the surface of the plate. Once hard I sanded it smooth. Now, I know that you'll never see the surface of the CP after the overlay is on, but I would know. So I sprayed it to a fine finish.
M    Y    X

BLACKOUT  - Finally rewritten - http://blog.myxdigital.com/
Original BLACKOUT thread - http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=48239.0

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Re: MYX "BLACKOUT" Update w Pix 7-2-06 Massive Update
« Reply #117 on: July 02, 2006, 08:50:42 pm »
CPO Arrived
Once again MAME Marquees did a wonderful job on the CP. One thing to mention though, I wish that he would not fold the CPOs in half before rolling it up. Made it hard to work with during the install. He did put it in a tube which was an upgrade since the last I ordered from him.
BTW, I put a copy of my Marquee on the same print as the CPO. I paid for 23 x 35 so I figured I should get my money's worth being that my CP was only 12 inch deep.
After cutting the CP to seperate the marquee and cpo I installed the CPO. I have done several CPO installs and they all get really intense as you really only get one shot.
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BLACKOUT  - Finally rewritten - http://blog.myxdigital.com/
Original BLACKOUT thread - http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=48239.0

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Re: MYX "BLACKOUT" Update w Pix 7-2-06 Massive Update
« Reply #118 on: July 02, 2006, 08:57:52 pm »
Side Art pt. 2
I wanted to maintain the theme of the CPO on the sides of the cab. I spent a few hours tapeing the sides and once again masking the cab. For this part of the side art I used RO Painters choice again. This time the colors were Sun Yellow, Real Orange, and Apple Red. I started with yellow, then orange, then red. Then I did a second round.
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BLACKOUT  - Finally rewritten - http://blog.myxdigital.com/
Original BLACKOUT thread - http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=48239.0

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Re: MYX "BLACKOUT" Update w Pix 7-2-06 Massive Update
« Reply #119 on: July 02, 2006, 08:58:32 pm »
.
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BLACKOUT  - Finally rewritten - http://blog.myxdigital.com/
Original BLACKOUT thread - http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=48239.0

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Re: MYX "BLACKOUT" Update w Pix 7-2-06 Massive Update
« Reply #120 on: July 02, 2006, 08:59:48 pm »
CPO Part 2
I spent several days just looking at the CPO. It looked so nice. I did not want to cut into it. I just wanted to look at it. But a CP is worthless if there are no buttons, tb, or joys. Finally, I gave in and cut out all the holes. I cleaned and recleaned my plexi and started to put it on. Then I pulled it off and recleaned it again. I put on the plexi and saw all sorts of crap on it. So I cleaned it and recleaned it. Friggin magnetics...
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BLACKOUT  - Finally rewritten - http://blog.myxdigital.com/
Original BLACKOUT thread - http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=48239.0

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Re: MYX "BLACKOUT" Update w Pix 7-2-06 Massive Update
« Reply #121 on: July 02, 2006, 09:00:52 pm »
Speakerboard Art.
I wanted the speakerboard to follow suit with the side art and CPO. So I taped up the Speakerboard.
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BLACKOUT  - Finally rewritten - http://blog.myxdigital.com/
Original BLACKOUT thread - http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=48239.0

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Re: MYX "BLACKOUT" Update w Pix 7-2-06 Massive Update
« Reply #122 on: July 02, 2006, 09:01:44 pm »
.
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BLACKOUT  - Finally rewritten - http://blog.myxdigital.com/
Original BLACKOUT thread - http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=48239.0

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Re: MYX "BLACKOUT" Update w Pix 7-2-06 Massive Update
« Reply #123 on: July 02, 2006, 09:03:08 pm »
Sideart pt. 3
I originally wanted to do the CP design on the side. I have been watching my recipts totals increasing and increasing. So I decided against a lasercut stencil. I decided to freehand it. (MISTAKE) I taped up the sides and sketched out the design. Then I used a Xacto knife to cut out the design. Not only did it not do a good job, I now had super fine scratches on the side. D'oh! So I started looking at the side and thinking about what might look cool. I liked what I did for the speakerboard, so I decided to go with the angular thing on the sides, and front. Tape, tape and even more tape. Then tons of masking. About 3 hours later I was ready to paint. Wohoo. One thing that struck me as odd and a little scarey, but on the front, in the center I have a hole for the cab on button. (circle) when I was doing all the taping I made a couple of angles at the top. Then because of the side angles there was a straight line across the triangle. Now, I did not see this before I painted it, but the triangle with the circle looks like the illuminati symbol. :0P
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Re: MYX "BLACKOUT" Update w Pix 7-2-06 Massive Update
« Reply #124 on: July 02, 2006, 09:04:13 pm »
.
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Re: MYX "BLACKOUT" Update w Pix 7-2-06 Massive Update
« Reply #125 on: July 02, 2006, 09:05:34 pm »
And the result...
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Re: MYX "BLACKOUT" Update w Pix 7-2-06 Massive Update
« Reply #126 on: July 02, 2006, 09:06:21 pm »
.
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Re: MYX "BLACKOUT" Update w Pix 7-2-06 Massive Update
« Reply #127 on: July 02, 2006, 09:06:52 pm »
HOly Corolla!

Your CP looks fantaboulastic!

I love the art and the layout.  Whats with the white buttons are they special white buttons or something?

The speaker panel is nice too.  I like that its painted.  I've always wanted to do something like that.


Do you have any tips for dealing with that plexi "magnetism"?



edit:  oh and sorry I interupted your massive update.  I thought your were done already.  I didnt know you did the whole cabinet. - wow
« Last Edit: July 02, 2006, 09:08:40 pm by Timoe »

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Re: MYX "BLACKOUT" Update w Pix 7-2-06 Massive Update
« Reply #128 on: July 02, 2006, 09:07:08 pm »
I have now moved it inside to the game room for assembly. WOOOOOOHOOOOOOOO! :D
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Re: MYX "BLACKOUT" Update w Pix 7-2-06 Massive Update
« Reply #129 on: July 02, 2006, 11:04:44 pm »
Very Very cool! Looking Great MYX. More pics and more details!

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Re: MYX "BLACKOUT" Update w Pix 7-2-06 Massive Update
« Reply #130 on: July 02, 2006, 11:40:28 pm »
HOly Corolla!

Your CP looks fantaboulastic!

I love the art and the layout.  Whats with the white buttons are they special white buttons or something?

The speaker panel is nice too.  I like that its painted.  I've always wanted to do something like that.


Do you have any tips for dealing with that plexi "magnetism"?

1. Thank you.
2. White buttons are GGG Ice. They may get changed out for All Translucients, but I need to see them lit up first.
3. Magnitism issues... I use a twin Montfolk Klactalchrisminabulator and rub it gently on the surface while applying Blisterox Antimagnitism ointment all over it. Usually works within the first 120 years of rubbing, but you have to keep it perfectly clean in the process.
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Re: MYX "BLACKOUT" Update w Pix 7-2-06 Massive Update
« Reply #131 on: July 03, 2006, 12:23:15 am »
This is really a beautiful cab. Colors are great, and they fit that that awesome profile very well.

Very nice work!

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Re: MYX "BLACKOUT" Update w Pix 7-2-06 Massive Update
« Reply #132 on: July 03, 2006, 12:57:41 am »
Your transition from yellow to orange looks great.  I think I know how you did it, but for the record, could you please explain.

Thanks

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Re: MYX "BLACKOUT" Update w Pix 7-2-06 Massive Update
« Reply #133 on: July 03, 2006, 03:06:26 am »
That is one sharp looking cabinet! :cheers:  An alltime classic for the painting alone.  Wonderful job.  Absolutely wonderful. :cheers:

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Re: MYX "BLACKOUT" Update w Pix 7-2-06 Massive Update
« Reply #134 on: July 03, 2006, 07:59:50 am »
You are truly the paint master...

 :notworthy: :notworthy: :notworthy: :notworthy: :notworthy: :notworthy:

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Re: MYX "BLACKOUT" Update w Pix 7-2-06 Massive Update
« Reply #135 on: July 03, 2006, 08:14:40 am »
Absolutely fantastic.

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Re: MYX "BLACKOUT" Update w Pix 7-2-06 Massive Update
« Reply #136 on: July 03, 2006, 09:31:00 am »
Your transition from yellow to orange looks great.  I think I know how you did it, but for the record, could you please explain.
Thanks
Started with yellow and did a really solid coat. While it was still wet I got the orange. I stood at the back of the cab and aimed forwards. This way the back got the main blast and overspray would follow forward. I moved the can forward to go down the line, but always kept my angle. As I got closer and closer to the front, I got further and further away from the cab. Then I repeated with red. Then I did the whole cycle over again for touch up. The yellow i just gave a blast right at the tips (This time with an angle a little ways back) so the paint would spread. I then blended with the orange and finished the stripe with the red on the other end. While sprayning I kept the can spraying. Not small little bursts. Bursts caused a real distinction between the colors. Constant spray was the trick. Also bursts sometimes caused big specks of paint to come out which can f up yer paint job.

Things to mention...
1. This took a heck of a lot of tape.
I went through 2 rolls of the 2 in. tape, nearly 2 rolls of the 3/4 tape, almost 1 whole roll of the paper tape (has light adheisive on 1 side of the tape and just paper on the other 4 in wide). 
2. The middle color (orange) ran out the fastest. I thought it would be the red.
3. when I used black on the sides and speakerboard I went VERY sparingly.
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BLACKOUT  - Finally rewritten - http://blog.myxdigital.com/
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Re: MYX "BLACKOUT" Update w Pix 7-2-06 Massive Update
« Reply #137 on: July 03, 2006, 11:40:39 am »
one hell of a paint job on that cabinet....

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Re: MYX "BLACKOUT" Update w Pix 7-2-06 Massive Update
« Reply #138 on: July 03, 2006, 01:29:57 pm »
MYX -

On my driving cabinet, I painted stripes instead of sideart too. My thought was it would be cheaper than printing sideart and still look cool. Overall, I loved how mine turned out. I'm loving how yours turned out, but I can't help but wonder what the overall cost break down is. It LOOKS expensive!

Also - where did you land on the marquee? Last I saw (before all the tragedies) was a blackout marquee and you were contemplating the font. 


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Re: MYX "BLACKOUT" Update w Pix 7-2-06 Massive Update
« Reply #139 on: July 03, 2006, 03:56:49 pm »
Also - where did you land on the marquee? Last I saw (before all the tragedies) was a blackout marquee and you were contemplating the font. 

See THIS Post. I Decided to keep the blue shift. If you look at the K, I elongated the upright bar to make it stand out more like a K. It is not perfect, but the 3d guy at work and the graphics guys liked my solution. I like it, and so does the wife, so I can sleep easy.  ;D

Right now I am installing all the stuff into the cab. I have a vacume hose run through the coin door and everytime I drill, I kick it on to keep dust to a minimum for easier clean up. It is amazing how much dust is attracted to things you do not want dust to get on or into.

EDIT:
I do understand that the marquee does not follow the CP or side art in theme, but it does follow with color. I think that having the bars like on the CP or the rays like on the sides and front would be too much. Being it is a wash of all the colors used it sort of ties it together. (well at least in my brain it does.)
« Last Edit: July 03, 2006, 04:13:01 pm by MYX »
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Re: MYX "BLACKOUT" Update w Pix 7-2-06 Massive Update
« Reply #140 on: July 03, 2006, 05:27:14 pm »
I think if you added a few horizontal lines the marquee would match the rest of the design prefectly.
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Re: MYX "BLACKOUT" Update w Pix 7-2-06 Massive Update
« Reply #141 on: July 03, 2006, 06:46:17 pm »
Those colors are so vibrant! I'm completely wowed at the end result!  :o

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Re: MYX "BLACKOUT" Update w Pix 7-2-06 Massive Update
« Reply #142 on: July 03, 2006, 07:39:44 pm »
I think if you added a few horizontal lines the marquee would match the rest of the design prefectly.

Tried it several ways. (check a few posts above the previously mentioned post)
I also tried the bars from the CP in the background and it all distracted from the whispy stuff. 
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Re: MYX "BLACKOUT" Update w Pix 7-2-06 Massive Update
« Reply #143 on: July 03, 2006, 09:34:35 pm »
Looking amazing

I like the painting on the sides to tie in with the CP and marquee..

All those layers and masking/unmasking sure looks time consuming but definately worth it in the end...

Thanks for the updates and photos  :cheers:
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Re: MYX "BLACKOUT" Update w Pix 7-2-06 Massive Update
« Reply #144 on: July 03, 2006, 10:27:16 pm »
Thanks for the lesson.

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Re: MYX "BLACKOUT" Update w Pix 7-2-06 Massive Update
« Reply #145 on: July 05, 2006, 08:37:09 am »
Thanks for the speakerboard pixs.  Those gave me a lot of idea.

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Re: MYX "BLACKOUT" Update w Pix 7-2-06 Massive Update
« Reply #146 on: July 05, 2006, 04:41:50 pm »
Awesome!  You do some mean work with a can of spray paint and some tape. 

I have enough trouble just getting the paint to look good, let alone do something like that. 

- DigDreams

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Re: MYX "BLACKOUT" Update w Pix 7-2-06 Massive Update
« Reply #147 on: July 06, 2006, 09:01:00 pm »
Fantastic Job!  I love the paint job and all the pics of the cab, cp and speaker thingy. 

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Re: MYX "BLACKOUT" Update w Pix 7-2-06 Massive Update
« Reply #148 on: July 06, 2006, 11:56:01 pm »
Let me be the 82nd person to say that the paintjob rules.

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Re: MYX "BLACKOUT" Update w Pix 7-2-06 Massive Update
« Reply #149 on: July 25, 2006, 09:35:51 am »
Looking great! I really love the color scheme.

I also admire how you battled through your little mishap. We invest so much time into these projects and when something like that happens, you just want to quit and give up - way to persevere.

Keep up the great work.

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Re: MYX "BLACKOUT" Update w Pix 7-2-06 Massive Update
« Reply #150 on: August 11, 2006, 10:18:47 pm »

Holy Crap! Was just doing a Taito cab search and stumbled upon this beauty, NICE WORK!

Don't know how I missed this one before but keep up the good work, I'd love to see the final product.

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Re: MYX "BLACKOUT" Update w Pix 7-2-06 Massive Update
« Reply #151 on: August 12, 2006, 10:28:24 am »
Yeah, I am getting there. I will be doing another mega post soon.
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BLACKOUT  - Finally rewritten - http://blog.myxdigital.com/
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Re: MYX "BLACKOUT" Update w Pix 7-2-06 Massive Update
« Reply #152 on: August 12, 2006, 11:35:51 am »
Yeah, I am getting there. I will be doing another mega post soon.

I can't wait to see it. I want to say hurry up, but I'm afraid you literally will hurry up and kill yourself or the cabinet!  ;D

A word of advice! Do it in word or something... Nothing worse than losing your update because of a problem posting. I post often because I take lots of pictures and talk a lot. I think it would be too much to read if I did it in mega posts.

Keep up the good work! I'm ready to see an actual functional monitor.

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Re: >>BLACKOUT<<
« Reply #153 on: August 12, 2006, 08:55:55 pm »
Yup, the last mega posts were done in word. For easier posting and eventually I want to build a web page. Then it is all typed.
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Re: Two steps forward, one step back (perhaps more)
« Reply #154 on: August 13, 2006, 06:14:42 pm »
So I got the monitor in to test placement and angle. It looks great. So far the brace is firm and seems secure. I am still a little nervous as that is a $180 monitor on a $17 brace.   :-\
So I was running around measuring the bottom and top to make sure it was centered and all that. Then I went to shut the door. Um the door wont shut. :o
WTF!!! I took into account for the depth of the monitor all the way back to the end of the stem. I did not take into consideration... The damn monitor frame shelf!!! The darn thing sticks 3/4 in. outside the back of the cab. I am totally befuttled. AND I DON"T EVEN USE THE WORD!
So it looks like I will be looking at a steeper angle. ---meadow muffin---! I really wanted a laid back monitor. I am worried that if I have to make the angle steeper that it will be hard to look at as the monitor will be a very low vert monitor. I was too frusterated to really give it a look over tonight. I will look at it again tomorrow.
 :'(

 
That looks familiar. I recently bought an Ikari Warriors (Dynamo HS-1 "cut-corner" cabinet) from a local operator on here and it had a WG K4900 monitor in it with the triangular shelf-mount type frame like yours has. The back door would not go on it like that. That is the way it was when he got the machine, it didn't even have a back door with it.

Fortunately, K4900's were available with more compact frames, and he had a frame from a different K4900 that he swapped onto it and he also had a spare Dynamo cabinet door and all was well.

I have a Victory Road (sequel to Ikari Warriors, same cabinet) that still has its original K7000 in it and it has the same style of compact frame that the operator swapped onto the Ikari Warriors' K4900 for me.

So anyway, maybe more compact frames are available for your particular make of monitor?

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Re: >>BLACKOUT<<
« Reply #155 on: August 14, 2006, 08:54:30 am »
No need, once I went Horizontal with the monitor, it fits beautifully. Thanks thogh.
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Original BLACKOUT thread - http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=48239.0

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Re: >>BLACKOUT<<
« Reply #156 on: September 06, 2006, 09:22:12 am »
MYX, I am really impressed. I don't have much time to browse projects lately so I just saw your cab now.  The artwork is first-rate, very retro.

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Re: >>BLACKOUT<<
« Reply #157 on: September 06, 2006, 10:41:59 am »
Where's the mega update?

 :cheers:

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Re: >>BLACKOUT<<
« Reply #158 on: September 06, 2006, 06:19:54 pm »
Yeah, I have been trying to get the dang thing done. I am held up with the FE issues. :banghead:
Trying to get LEDWiz working with FE with GPWiz49 with some flavor of MAME. Will I use Johnny5, Will I use Atomic FE, will I use Dragon King, Will I be able to make MAMEWah make it go..... And on and on and on... My brain hurts from trying to read everything, keep it straight from FE to FE. Trying to understand how to write batch files. Trying to understand ... There is a lot to take in. 

Plus, I am waiting on a marquee retainer from Arcadeshop. Should be here on Friday.  Guess, I should just put up what I have as of now. I will try to start writing it up tonight. Then I will post. Sorry.

I wanted to be done by now. Sounds whiney, but I really do want to be done for a while. I want to have a few weeks of not having to think about how to configure this or that. I am getting a little burnt out. I have put so much detail into places that folks will never see, so the places that they do see will be that much more over the top. I do not like just "good enough". If I have to re do something again to make sure it rocks, then I will. Call it a little ADD mixed with OCD mixed with trying to be a perfectionist. I want it to be a fully polished piece upon completion.

I have the same issues at work. I like my videos to have many layers to them so there is something new to see when watched more than once.
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BLACKOUT  - Finally rewritten - http://blog.myxdigital.com/
Original BLACKOUT thread - http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=48239.0

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Re: >>BLACKOUT<<
« Reply #159 on: September 11, 2006, 11:52:22 pm »
Ok...finally I am doing the update. I have made a LOT of progress since the last major update. I am feeling very good about how it is turning out. So, After getting the cabnet it's self finished, I hauled it upstairs to my gameroom. Then began the process of installing the gutz. It seems to be a fad on the board to use your Air Hockey table as a staging area for anything and everything that gets done in the game room. Well the same is true here. I stacked everything I intended to put into the cab here. Although soon enough it all made it's way onto the floor to the point where no one could walk through there. I eventually would get so frustrated with the mess that I would stop everything and clean the whole place just to repeat the cycle again.

EDIT: BTW, There are just far to many distractions. My ADD side keeps getting wrapped up in other things. Part of the delay was the WIKI. I started playing with that and lost several weeks. I decided that I was not allowed to play with the  WIKI until I was finished. This is a little sad because I started a whole section that is really sad looking right now so I really need to get back in there to clean it up. Then there is church. I go to it and am involved there. I do sound there and am in a men's bible study which takes time. Kids and family take time (actually they have to come first) So many times , planned to work on the cabinet and something would come up with the family. I have gotten in too much trouble for letting the cab come first. The cab became an obsession. There really is a sickness that sets in when you start to see progress. You get excited and want to work on it that much more. I have been late to work (on more than one several a lot of occasions because I just wanted to finish just one more thing.

Somewhere in the flow of things I went to two arcade auctions and bought some stuff. This was a side track because most games from auctions require some TLC. So that diverted me several times. Plus, I have been repairing some stuff that a friend of mine bought.

I also got side tracked by the software dilemma. Once the thing was able to produce a picture I have been modifying and tweaking and trying to learn how to make MAMEWah, PowerMAME, PowerMAME32, Atomic FrontEnd, and DragonKing work. They all have their cool sides. Once I got my head wrapped around MAMEWah the others seemed easier to play with, but trying to understand the bugs of each...well. The pictures that you will see in a little bit are shown with MAMEWah.

I have been desperately trying to use PowerMAME because of the 49 way support and the LED stuff (not to mention many other cool things). Infact I bought so much stuff based around PM that I had to make it go. I also liked MAMEWah because of the quickres utility and the ability to skin the thing however I liked. Now I am finding out that most allow this though. So I have to figure out a resolution solution. because it seems that MAMEWah uses the resolution info to pass to MAME it does not change what MAME wanted to do if set on auto. When I am PowerMAME32 I can not seem to get a good resolution setting on anything. I have 2 49 ways with GPWiz49s and a LEDWiz. so far I love both. They play well the GGG LEDWiz with the ICE buttons are fantastic together. I have gotten many beautiful colors out of the RGB LEDs. They are nice and bright in a lit room, and are over the top in a dark room (in a good way). So I just have to figure out how to make it all play well together.

I do not remember how I found TigerHeli's link, but he has a page for the set up of auto select for the GGG GPWiz49 with a 49 way joystick. LINK This will take care of the 49 way issue, but I still have to figure out a better way of programming animations on for the LEDWiz. Being a video editor and lately leaning more towards motion graphics and animation, I am frustrated by the LEDWiz interface. In after effects you have total control. In the LEDWiz app you are fairly limited and it is cumbersome. No don't get me wrong. I love the app as it is the only way to program the thing and I have done some very nice stuff with it, I wish it was easier to use.

I am really leaning towards Atomic Front End because Youki will be adding LEDWiz support, but I still have not been successful with getting it fully running. I am getting to a point where though not totally finished, I feel I can work on the config of this thing to get it totally playable.

Right now in order to play it at all I am using PM32 with is nearly blinding to look at on a CGA monitor at 640 x 480. but that is the only to see everything I need to see if I go into menus n such.
« Last Edit: September 15, 2006, 08:32:58 am by MYX »
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Re: >>BLACKOUT<<
« Reply #160 on: September 11, 2006, 11:53:15 pm »
Powercord Hole
The first order of business was putting in the monitor. Looking back on thing it should have been one of the latter things, but...oh well. Live and learn. I also realized early on that I forgot to drill a hole for my power cord. Doh'. So, Being very careful not to goof up all the paint, I strapped a board to the bottom of the cab and drilled my powercord hole. This was a painless procedure. Also, I ran the vacuum tube through the coin door hole. Anytime I had to drill, I would turn it on so all dust was immediately sucked up (except for the powercord hole). Then I put in the smart strip
« Last Edit: September 15, 2006, 08:33:17 am by MYX »
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Re: >>BLACKOUT<<
« Reply #161 on: September 11, 2006, 11:54:42 pm »
Aux Power Supply
I decided that I wanted car speakers and amp for a little stronger audio source. I also wanted to use cold cathode lighting. I did not want to run either off the computer PS, so I installed an axillary PS. Seeing as I would not be hooking this up to a computer, I did away with the molex adapters, then trimmed and sorted the wires. I capped each line with heatshrink that I was not using. This way the feeds would be there if I wanted them for future add ons, but 1. Would not be a safety concern in the mean time and 2. Would be neater wiring in the cab. You will notice that the 2 lead sets that ware coming off to go to the amp and the lighting also have a green and black pair. I soldered these together and heat shrinked it to the bundle. This way the PS is always on as long as there is power. I shortened the 2 PS powercords to about 1
« Last Edit: September 15, 2006, 08:34:04 am by MYX »
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Re: >>BLACKOUT<<
« Reply #162 on: September 11, 2006, 11:55:56 pm »
Securing the PS's
I did not want to make a custom bracket for the 2 power supplies. So, I took the PS appart and used the bottom to be my connector. I used a dremmil to cut tags on the PS. I bent them out flat and pre drilled holes in them. Then after I drilled pilot holes on the cab I attached the PS. Rock solid!!!
« Last Edit: September 15, 2006, 08:34:29 am by MYX »
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Re: >>BLACKOUT<<
« Reply #163 on: September 11, 2006, 11:56:33 pm »
Audio Amp
I attached the amp to the right side of the cabinet (inside left).


oooh ahhhh
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Re: >>BLACKOUT<<
« Reply #164 on: September 11, 2006, 11:58:22 pm »
Coin Door.
In the evenings my kid likes to play outside. Duh, it is summer and kids play outside when it is nice out. So, I used that time to work on out door cab projects. I think I mentioned it before, but I got a over under coin door at a not so near by pinball dealer. When I went to get my backglass for my Black Knight, I was a sawed off dynamo being as a TV stand. I asked if he would sell the coin door out of it. He said I could have it for $15 if I pulled it. SOLD! So while my kid is playing outside, I took the coin door apart and took a wire wheel to it. Afterwards I sanded it. I got it nice and clean. I then opted for the Rust-o-lium Satin instead of the original hammered look. Everything is smooth on the cabinet, so I did not like the idea of hammered. Truth be told, I am do not much care for the hammered look anyway.
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Re: >>BLACKOUT<<
« Reply #165 on: September 11, 2006, 11:59:21 pm »
I do not know where this thing had been but if was covered in crap. The mechs had to be dremmeled clean with the wire brush. This stuff was stuck on. The mech holders had some mystery goop on it. I became almost OCD about cleaning my hands after dealing with it. I was fearing that I was handeling someones puke or worse. But hey $15 is $15 eh'.
« Last Edit: September 15, 2006, 08:38:08 am by MYX »
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Re: >>BLACKOUT<<
« Reply #166 on: September 12, 2006, 12:00:09 am »
Motherboard
I had a computer that I had set asside for the project. When I went to set it all up the computer decided it would rather kill it's self instead. I was really bummed. But my partner in arcade crime Neal, had a Celery 1.8 GHZ that he was not using that he donated to the cause. Woo hoo! Nice case too, but the computer was destined to be unside the cab caseless.

When removing the mother board I took lots of pictures so I would remember where to put everything. I gotta tell you, having a camera on my phone is a wonderful tool in situations where I forgot my real camera. I also made a map of the screw holes so I would not forget any. 12 screws. I was not sure if I needed all of them, but it would seem that is I was adding or removing IDE lines or power or video cards, not having all the support might damage the board, so I decided to do all 12. The MB would not sit flat against the wall so I found some 1/4  in nylon stand offs at the Home Depot. I used these for my mother board. I will just say for the record that mounting a motherboard to the side of a cabinet, maintaining level, and getting little stand offs while balencing between the monitor and the floor of the cab was a major main in the posterier. (remember the comment about perhaps putting the monitor in later...) . So, I screwed one screw (with stand off) in the center top hole of  the motherboard. I leaned in the cab on one elbo (left) got the stand off in a pair of pliers in my right hand. I put the level on top of the motherboard, found maintained level with the left hand, put the stand off behind the motherboard with the right, then pushed down on it with the right while grabbing the screwdriver with the left, fidgeting to get a screw and placing it through the hole and finally tightening it down (which was the easiest part). 

(updated 9-15)
« Last Edit: October 07, 2006, 08:13:08 am by MYX »
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Re: >>BLACKOUT<<
« Reply #167 on: September 12, 2006, 12:01:57 am »
Hard drive mounting.
What I noticed when taking the PC appart, was... Wow, look at all this usable metal. I used the metal from the PC case for many parts of my cab. I dremmiled off the hard drive cage and modified it to be screwable to the cab. It was originally welded to the PC case. I put some holes in it, bent it, painted it, installed it, added the HDs, screwed them in and done. I also used other bits for the DVDr Drive.

One scare I had was when I got the DVDr installed, I realized that the lip of the door stop was right in front of the DVDr. I decided to open the tray. I did and the tray misses the door stop lip by about 2 or 3 mm. Whew.

(updated 9-15)
« Last Edit: September 15, 2006, 08:26:06 am by MYX »
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Re: >>BLACKOUT<<
« Reply #168 on: September 12, 2006, 12:02:47 am »
Menacing little blue light.
I have always liked how macs have this power light that slowly just fades on and fades off. So I decided that I needed a similar thing on the cab. So I pulled out the ol radioshack project books and started looking for a schematic. I did not find exactly what I was looking for so I set out to create my own recipe. After about a day of experimenting, I finally had a good balance of  fade in, pause, fade out, pause. The circuit had to be run off a little power supply (as I did not want to spend a brazillion dollars in batteries). I The following day I pulled out an old piece of circuit board and began constructing. About 3 hours later I had a working pulser. I put the circuit near the coin door as my main power button is mounted near by here too. I ran the little wall wart PS to the always hot outlet on the smartstrip.

I love it, it sort of gently taunts you....come here...play me....

The buttons switch was then wired to the motherboard power on. I used the connector that was originally attached to the mobo switch and snipped it and connected it to the button line. Easy and works great.

P.S. Again, this was not intentional, but it does sort of have an Illuminati sort of look to the pyramid doesn't it.

(updated 9-15)
« Last Edit: September 15, 2006, 08:39:51 am by MYX »
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Re: >>BLACKOUT<<
« Reply #169 on: September 12, 2006, 12:05:35 am »
CP Wiring
This seemed to be one of the most time consuming parts of the entire build. I had 32 channels of LED lighting, 2 - 49 way Joysticks 20 buttons (5 using RGB LEDs all the rest used Blues), a track ball, track ball buttons, USB for all the interfaces, plus wiring an adapter that would feed the cabinet (coin door switches, LEDS...).  I started with the LEDs. After all the PBs, Joys, TB, +Interfaces were in, I realized that there was a significant shortage of real estate available for clean wiring. But I set out to do just that. I decided to use wire looms. I found a good supply at Fry's. I bought a roll of 1/4 in and got a package of various sizes. Everytime there was any distance between source and destination, I would loom it. This way all wires would be both secure and tightly bound together.  I did the player 1 LEDs first. I tested each LED Before and after I added them because I did not want to get to the end of all the looming, heat shrinking, and soldering to find out that I had a problem somewhere. I build a little LED tester a few years ago which helped.  I put heat shrinking at every solder point so there would be no shorts at some point because something shifted. I decided to put all the resisters be the LEDWiz so I had only clean wire in the tight spaces. This seemed like a good idea, but as I learned soon, it also got very tight around the LEDWiz. The RGB LEDs were set up with RG&B wires for easy tracing. I did all the LED and PB wiring in my living room while watching TV at nights. I have to say my family was very supportive in this trying time. (I sort of made a big mess). Little snippets of red, yellow, blue, green, black, and yellow wires everywhere. After Player 1, I did players 2 then the utility buttons (coin up, P1, P2, Esc, and Pause). This took several nights and mornings (before work).

Then I moved onto the push buttons. After the LEDs, the PBs were a piece of cake. Side note, but I talked to RandyT and asked if he saw any problem with me making the mouse buttons also connect to the GPWiz49s shift key. He did not see a problem. So, once in MAME, being that I would not be using the mouse buttons, the shift keys come into play. Buttons 1-5 on both P1 and P2  can all be shifted. This has been great so far as my Tab and Volume up and down. BTW all PBs were wired with yellow wire to totally stand appart from the LED lines.

One of the things I wanted to do was try and do a Knievel'esk wireing job. Did I succeed? Well, I think I did ok, but it was not a Knievel job. He's still is the master of the perfect wiring job. He raised the bar on wiring it is a good bar to try to reach for.   :cheers:

BTW, If you are someone who does a lot of soldering and feel that helping hands do not really help as much as one could hope for should check out the Panavise sets. I got one on e-bay for like $15. They can be like $85 at a store. But you can clamp a circuit board or LED or anything up to 9 inches and rotate it in just about any position. GREAT TOOL!!!
« Last Edit: September 15, 2006, 08:31:29 am by MYX »
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Re: >>BLACKOUT<<
« Reply #170 on: September 12, 2006, 12:06:47 am »
.
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Re: >>BLACKOUT<<
« Reply #171 on: September 12, 2006, 12:07:19 am »
Track Ball
I hooked up the LEDs for the Track Ball. This was not a difficult thing. Wire, wire, snip, snip, solder, solder, heatgun, know, what I mean nudge, nudge, wink, wink, snap, click, know what I mean...He asked him knowingly. Sorry, Monty Python flashback.
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Re: >>BLACKOUT<<
« Reply #172 on: September 12, 2006, 12:07:56 am »
Cable Tracks
I wanted the inside of the cabinet to be absolutly clean once it was finished, so, I installed cable tracks all the way around the bottom of the cab. I also have one track going up the left (inside right) front pannel (coin door pannel). All wires and cables travel through these tracks. This way there are no loose wires wandering aimlessly around the cabinet. This has helpped in being able to climb in there to work on stuff. Oh yeah, there is one track running up the back right inside of the cabinet (near the door) This takes all wires up to the speakerboard area.
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Re: >>BLACKOUT<<
« Reply #173 on: September 12, 2006, 12:09:06 am »
Speaker Board Wiring
I wired up the Speakerboard via DB9connectors. This seperates from the back of the cab for easy repairs (if needed). Also if I have to remove the monitor ever, the wireing needs to be disconnected in order to get the monitor frame out. The DB9 connector went to +12 and Ground (From Aux power supply), Speaker L & R, and lastly line 32 from the LEDWiz and a LEDWiz Ground. In each notch below the speaker holes, I placed a red LED. My speakers have a metalic silver grey color. This makes them light really nicely. The cool thing is that they are not so bright that they are distracting, but just subtle. I like it.
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Re: >>BLACKOUT<<
« Reply #174 on: September 12, 2006, 12:09:40 am »
LEDWiz
At this point I could no longer stand it. I had to fire it up and try out the LEDWiz. I played with it for several hours. I programmed many sets of animations and started to get the hang of it.
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Re: >>BLACKOUT<<
« Reply #175 on: September 12, 2006, 12:11:39 am »
Light Board
I used a piece of hard board for my light board. First I measured out where I wanted my hangers. I drilled out holes on the hardboard. I put the L brackets on and attached them through the hardboard. Then I put the hardboard in the monitor hole and marked where I needed to place my pilot holes (I had to take my speakerboard down first). I drilled my pilot holes. On the hardboard I used Foil Tape to coat the surface. This way as much of the light as possible would go out the marquee, not get absorbed by the light board. I drilled wires for cold cathode to reach the the inverters. May sound stupid, but I did not even want the inverters sucking up light, so I put them on the back of the lightboard with velcro. I wired the inverters to the PS feed and then the cold cathod tubes to the inverters. One thing to mention. I snipped the on off switches off of the inverters. I always wanted the mights on if the cab was on. Plus I could not see unscrewing the entire sound board / light board set to turn off the CC tubes. 

The morning after I put the CCs on the light board I noticed that the cheap POS foam tabs used to stick the CCs onto the lightboard with had fallen of in several places. I decided that this would not do, so I replaced all pads with the same heavy duty velcro that I used for the CP top.
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Re: >>BLACKOUT<<
« Reply #176 on: September 12, 2006, 12:12:55 am »
.
« Last Edit: September 12, 2006, 12:15:13 am by MYX »
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Re: >>BLACKOUT<<
« Reply #177 on: September 12, 2006, 12:14:41 am »
Marquee
I had used MAMEMarquees for a few marquees in the past. Scott always did a bang up job. My only gripe is that when lit, the marquees look a little washed out. Plus you can see the paper texture through the print. Now, read this clearly, I am not saying that his products are bad. Actually quite the opposite. I used him for my CP which I think totally friggin ROCKS! But I decided to go a little further for my Marquee. So I found a company (Megabytes Digital) which makes the translites lor movies and stuff. Acutally they are the company that does all the translites for all the Chick Fil A resturaunts. Anyway, it is not printed on paper, but on a filmtype material using a milky substrate. Basically is is plastic, white on the back and lit like film, so it is made to take light. So the colors are rich and very detailed when lit. I LOVE the way it turned out.

Marquee Intsalation
I bought a piece of
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Re: >>BLACKOUT<<
« Reply #178 on: September 12, 2006, 12:16:38 am »
At this point I had to make the leap and take the plastic off the plexi. I decided to try an experiment. When you work with electronics, sometimes you have to wear an anti static strap. This is to disapate a static charge so you don't fry the circuits. I tried this in reverse. I strapped the marquee plexi to the strap then to me. My hopes is that I would absorb the charge. I do not know if it worked or not, but it was not covered after I removed the plastic. I placed the marquee down, put the plastic over the top, trimmed the marquee, put the back plexi on and mounted it. Turned on the cab and WooHoo! It looks great (except for all the saw dust that was unleashed n my cabinet because of this.)
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BLACKOUT  - Finally rewritten - http://blog.myxdigital.com/
Original BLACKOUT thread - http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=48239.0

theCoder

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Re: >>BLACKOUT<<
« Reply #179 on: September 12, 2006, 02:21:33 am »
It seems to be a fad on the board to use your Air Hockey table as a staging area for anything and everything that gets done in the game room. Well the same is true here.
I can relate.  I've got one of those cheap rotating pool table/air hockey tables.  Sometimes the background of my images are green and sometimes they are white with small black poka-dots.

Menacing little blue light....After about a day of experimenting, I finally had a good balance of  fade in, pause, fade out, pause.
Could you draw up the schematic of what you came up with.  No fancy cad required, a scan of a crayon drawing is fine.  I'd love to do something like this for my coin slot lights.  Very cool!

Hang in there, you're on the final leg.  I've found you need a multiplier to accurately guesstimate the remaining time on a build.  It's kinda like the remaining time for a football game.  The game clock says 14 minutes, that really means 30-45 actual minutes.  Or was it more like dog years?  I forget the actual multiplier.  Your milage may vary.

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Re: >>BLACKOUT<< Updated 9-11 Super Massive Mega Update
« Reply #180 on: September 12, 2006, 08:00:50 am »
Could you draw up the schematic of what you came up with.  No fancy cad required, a scan of a crayon drawing is fine.  I'd love to do something like this for my coin slot lights.  Very cool!
Yikes, I knew someone would ask that. I built it on a breadboard and once the experimentation started the original schematic went right out the window. I will look at it and try to remember what it was. It is by no means a hard curcuit. It is based of a simple 555 timer circuit using resisted caps to slow the charge and discharge of the LED. I also put a transister driver in there. The resistance was too high to light the LED after the cap stage so I used the line meant for the LED and used it to drive a transister (NPN).

Hang in there, you're on the final leg.  I've found you need a multiplier to accurately guesstimate the remaining time on a build.  It's kinda like the remaining time for a football game.  The game clock says 14 minutes, that really means 30-45 actual minutes.  Or was it more like dog years?  I forget the actual multiplier.  Your milage may vary.

Yeah, this has been my experience the whole way through. I wish it was...Objects in mirror are closer than they seem.
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BLACKOUT  - Finally rewritten - http://blog.myxdigital.com/
Original BLACKOUT thread - http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=48239.0

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Re: >>BLACKOUT<< Updated 9-11 Super Massive Mega Update
« Reply #181 on: September 12, 2006, 08:15:41 am »
Holy S.  That truly is a mega-update.    That's first-rate work right there. Nice!

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Re: >>BLACKOUT<<
« Reply #182 on: September 12, 2006, 08:16:39 am »

I will just say for the record that mounting a motherboard to the side of a cabinet, maintaining level, and getting little stand offs while balencing between the monitor and the floor of the cab was a major main in the posterier. (remember the comment about perhaps putting the monitor in later...) . So, I screwed one screw (with stand off) in the center top hole of  the motherboard. I leaned in the cab on one elbo (left) got the stand off in a pair of pliers in my right hand. I put the level on top of the motherboard, found maintained level with the left hand


You DO realize that if you don't level your cab when it's in its "final" resting spot, all that leveling was for naught, right?

Unless you've got OCD about it, a good eyeballin' woulda sufficed for that task, no?  I haven't noticed a mention about water cooling, which would seem to be the only reason to level the motherboard like that.  Any other reasons, somebody please chime in, because there are many who will (and have) attach their mobo to the sides of their cab.
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Re: >>BLACKOUT<< Updated 9-11 Super Massive Mega Update
« Reply #183 on: September 12, 2006, 08:45:07 am »
You DO realize that if you don't level your cab when it's in its "final" resting spot, all that leveling was for naught, right?

Unless you've got OCD about it, a good eyeballin' woulda sufficed for that task, no?  I haven't noticed a mention about water cooling, which would seem to be the only reason to level the motherboard like that.  Any other reasons, somebody please chime in, because there are many who will (and have) attach their mobo to the sides of their cab.

I did check the level on the cab walls and base before starting. Drew, you are seeing OCD. From the get go, I have been trying to make everything an 11. I have not actually achieved that in several places, but half a$$ed was not an option. So Level it was. Liquid cooled...Naw, man I am so far passed that. I am using cryogenics on a molecular scale using a helical scaner strapped to a flux copacitance device in line with a BiNostril scent injection system prevortexed with orange juice. Works great! Hey do you wanna buy a moose?
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Original BLACKOUT thread - http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=48239.0

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Re: >>BLACKOUT<< Updated 9-11 Super Massive Mega Update
« Reply #184 on: September 12, 2006, 08:55:54 am »
I'm not sure levelling the mobo indicates OCD.  Years ago we would have called that 'exacting.'

DrewKaree

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Re: >>BLACKOUT<< Updated 9-11 Super Massive Mega Update
« Reply #185 on: September 12, 2006, 09:51:15 am »
I'm not sure levelling the mobo indicates OCD.  Years ago we would have called that 'exacting.'

...and if anyone's an expert on "years ago".... :laugh2:


MYX, what I mean is, unless you level the cab in its final resting place, leveling the mobo within the cab doesn't serve a useful purpose that I know of.  Making it parallel to an edge/seam would work just as well (while still looking like an 11), and if you accidentally had something underneath the cab (like a carpet), your mobo wouldn't be level anyhoo.

See what I'm saying?
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Re: >>BLACKOUT<< Updated 9-11 Super Massive Mega Update
« Reply #186 on: September 12, 2006, 10:27:56 am »
...and if anyone's an expert on "years ago".... :laugh2:

Bite me.   :angry:
Can I say that here?



edit:  ;)

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Re: >>BLACKOUT<< Updated 9-11 Super Massive Mega Update
« Reply #187 on: September 12, 2006, 10:56:59 am »
I am using cryogenics on a molecular scale using a helical scaner strapped to a flux copacitance device in line with a BiNostril scent injection system prevortexed with orange juice. Works great! Hey do you wanna buy a moose?
I was bidding on that system on eBay for my driving cab project.  So it was you that outbid me!  I guess I'll have to wait for another one to come up for bid again.

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Re: >>BLACKOUT<< Updated 9-11 Super Massive Mega Update
« Reply #188 on: September 12, 2006, 01:48:44 pm »
MYX, what I mean is, unless you level the cab in its final resting place, leveling the mobo within the cab doesn't serve a useful purpose that I know of.  Making it parallel to an edge/seam would work just as well (while still looking like an 11), and if you accidentally had something underneath the cab (like a carpet), your mobo wouldn't be level anyhoo.

See what I'm saying?


I was going to say no I can not "see " what your saying because you hear when people say stuff, but you did type it, so I guess I do see what you were saying.
My side is this... Stupidity says I gotta make the thing level. I understand that I could have put it at a 45 degree diagonal and it still woulda worked fine. Even worse is that once the thing is against the wall, no one is going to see the innerds at all anyway. It is more of me taking pride in my work.
Over the top stupid? Yes. Silly? yes. Am I happy with it? Yes. Pride is an odd sort of animal. I am not a chest thumper, do not feel like I need to be a people pleaser, but I do like to please myself (ok, that came out all wrong). I like to look at something I have done and say, Man, I like that. It might be over compensation for my younger life where I would have done just about anything to cut corners and just get by.

...and if anyone's an expert on "years ago".... :laugh2:

Bite me.   :angry:
Can I say that here?

edit:  ;)

If it is directed at the Honerable Brother, Drew Karee, yes... yes you may. ;)

So...Drew do you like the cab or not?
Not done yet, I have other OCD stupidity I am working on. :p
« Last Edit: September 12, 2006, 01:50:58 pm by MYX »
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Re: >>BLACKOUT<< Updated 9-11 Super Massive Mega Update
« Reply #189 on: September 12, 2006, 01:53:19 pm »
I am using cryogenics on a molecular scale using a helical scaner strapped to a flux copacitance device in line with a BiNostril scent injection system prevortexed with orange juice. Works great! Hey do you wanna buy a moose?
I was bidding on that system on eBay for my driving cab project.  So it was you that outbid me!  I guess I'll have to wait for another one to come up for bid again.

Dude, it was like eleventy brazillion. And it is usually only sold to private militaries in third world nations, but, I managed to sneak it by the folks at the post office.
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BLACKOUT  - Finally rewritten - http://blog.myxdigital.com/
Original BLACKOUT thread - http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=48239.0