One button cab power strip located

[eightbit]

I have located the holy grail of cab power strips only 30 beans-

http://www.bitsltd.net/smartstrip.html

Yes you can do the relay hack for much cheaper but this is an alternative.

[Peeper]

Heck, I'm gonna need one for my home theatre! Turn the receiver on and automatically turn on the rest of my components...

[eightbit]

Heck, I'm gonna need one for my home theatre! Turn the receiver on and automatically turn on the rest of my components...

I would think that would work.

[1UP]

Heck, I'm gonna need one for my home theatre! Turn the receiver on and automatically turn on the rest of my components...

There are many universal remotes that do this with one button.  I would suggest this rather than the power strip, since many TVs don't power up automatically after a long power outage.

[kspiff]

Well.. that is interesting.. too bad I already bought all the parts for the other hack  .. I could probably even cut off the male plug and rig it up to the female power outlet on the back of my cab from the other hack.

Definitely for the next cabinet.. less molex connectors wasted off the power supply..

[JuddWack]

I read the link here and am still confused.  Do you need to turn the swith on and off, or does it do it
automatically.  It also said when your computer goes into sleep mode it can turn other things off,
how does it know this.  I would have my computer, TV, speakers, and light hooked up to this, and
mabye coin door lights.Could someone explain how this works exactly, and how it may effect the TV.  
For example, does my TV need auto start when power is detected for this to work?

[elfman12]

Yes you can do the relay hack for much cheaper but this is an alternative.

Looks cool, but how does the computer interface with it? In other words, the hack relies on a power molex connector from the computer 12v to trigger it. Just curious.

[rampy]

Yes you can do the relay hack for much cheaper but this is an alternative.

Looks cool, but how does the computer interface with it? In other words, the hack relies on a power molex connector from the computer 12v to trigger it. Just curious.

I'm *guessing* it has some sort of "current drawn" activated switch...   Although don't most ATX mobo's always have some current going through them (5V or something)?

*shrug*

Looks neat... it's going on my wish list...

rampy

[Peeper]

Yes, but I have to reprogram the macro on my remote whenever I changed the battery. Good point on the TC, though. Perhap I'll have it run off the TV instead.

The way it works is (and this is a very crude sescription): It monitors the level of power going through one specefic outlet. When whatever is plugged into that outlet (the PC) stops drawing power (is turned off) it turns off the other outlets.

[jets]

Thanks very much for the link eightbit! That will make my life so much easier when I setup my own cabinet. With this item, the best way I can think of to make an external one-button switch would be to rig a switch from the computer tower to a switch outside the cabinet. Flip the switch and everything turns on. Cool.

[Zinfari]

Hehe... I love these message boards....  Great timing eightbit as I was just about to purchase an Power strip.... difinately will make things easier.

Zinfari

[Chris]

Just remember that surge protected strips will eventually need to  be replaced.  I am using a plain power strip inside the cabinet (with the relay hack) and I have the surge protector outside of the cabinet.

--Chris

[eightbit]

I'm going to try to respond to  multiple posts.

1. This power strip monitors a single outlet. When that outlet draws power it turns on the power strip. When that outlet stops drawing power it turns off the strip.

2. If your tv currently won't come back on if you turn it off with a power strip this won't change that.

3. You do not need any kind of interface to plug into your PC (see 1 above).

4. A single momentary push button is easy to wire to newer PC's if you want an external button on the cab. Otherwise you can locate your PC somewhere easy to reach, like behind the cab door and turn everything on and off with one button (unless you have a tv like in 2 above).

5. I'm not sure why surge protectors eventually need to be replaced, like everything else yes you will have to replace it, it should outlast your PC, I prefer to have one cord coming out of the cab with no ugly power strip to hide

I am not selling these, I'm not making any money here, I can't even tell you how well it works I haven't received the one I ordered yet, I'll post a review when it comes.  

[Chris]

5. I'm not sure why surge protectors eventually need to be replaced, like everything else yes you will have to replace it, it should outlast your PC, I prefer to have one cord coming out of the cab with no ugly power strip to hide

The circuty in a surge protector will only absorb so much bad power.  Eventually, they will no longer be able to protect anything, and the "protected" light on the surge strip will go out.  Some surge protectors will cut themselves off when the protection light goes out.

I have a single-outlet surge protector plugged directly into the wall:



Thus, no power strip to hide.

I'm not saying you can't use a surge strip inside the cabinet, just noting that you'll want to keep an eye on its protection light, and suggesting it be accessible enough to be replacable.

--Chris

[eightbit]

For you guys that think $30 + shipping is to much, I bought this at Sears today-

It was $20 and works very well. Same as the power strip mentioned at the begining of this thread it monitors one outlet and turns on the others when t senses the outlet in use. Its not ideal for a cab since most of us probably want 3 outlets, monitor, marquee, and speakers but thats easily fixed. I've got some PC cords that have a plug on them so they don't block an outlet so I easily got the extra outlet I needed. Its also not a surge supressor so its ideal for Chris who wants to keep his surge suppressor in sight.

[SirPoonga]

How will this turn the computer on?  Do today's computer have power on power?

the UK I saw on some site has a USB controlled power supply.   You turn ona  computer, when it boots it sends a signal to the strip to turn everything else on.

[JuddWack]

Couldnt you just have the PC, TV, marquee, and speakers all on one normal power strip, and then have a surge protector posted by chris a few posts up?  Is this dangerous?

[MinerAl]

I'm using an older (big) power supply on my computer, and it has a power outlet next to the socket for the power cord.  The outlet is the inverse of the socket for the power cord rather than a regular wall outlet, but I have a dongle that makes it a regular 3 prong extension cord.  It is switched with the computer's power button, and I used to use it to power on and off the monitor when it was my desktop machine.  

I'm currently using it to run the cab-cooling fans, the 12V coin lights and the powered speakers.   Some day when I get a better TV or a 24" monitor, I'll use it for that too.

When I upgrade to a faster computer though, this power strip will come in most handy.  Anxiously awaiting the reviews!

[Elkor]

MinerAl:
yeah theat'll work just fine (it was my original plan)
however there is an easier way....
wire a regular old toggle switch to the top of the cab (authentic!)
this switch will control ac to your powerstrip or distribution block where everything including the comp is plugged in...
for at powersupplies, just leave them switched on.
for atx powersupplies, they can be converted to instant-on by simply cutting the green wire on the atx connector and connecting it to one of the ground leads with a wirenut.
done.

 

[eightbit]

How will this turn the computer on?  Do today's computer have power on power?

the UK I saw on some site has a USB controlled power supply.   You turn ona  computer, when it boots it sends a signal to the strip to turn everything else on.

When you turn the computer on, either by using the button on the computer or a external button wired to it the outlet that the computer is plugged into senses the current use and turns on your other devices. The advantage to this is there is no additional wiring needed like with the relay hack that needs 12v from the computer or a USB cable like the USB controlled one your talking about.

Couldnt you just have the PC, TV, marquee, and speakers all on one normal power strip, and then have a surge protector posted by chris a few posts up?  Is this dangerous?

There is no problem with this other than newer computers won't power on with the flip of the switch or power down correctly if you use the switch to turn it off, unless you exit windows first.

I'm using an older (big) power supply on my computer, and it has a power outlet next to the socket for the power cord.  The outlet is the inverse of the socket for the power cord rather than a regular wall outlet, but I have a dongle that makes it a regular 3 prong extension cord.  It is switched with the computer's power button, and I used to use it to power on and off the monitor when it was my desktop machine.  

Most old computers had this, I have not seen it on a new one in years. That style PS willt not run the newer motherboards. Heres a picture of what he's talking about-
One of the black plugs is in and the other is out, the out is controlled by the PC power switch.

Most computers today have a momentary pushbutton to turn them on. This is very simple to use by accessing it through the coin door or easy to wire a remote arcade button to. *Note: do not place your power button on the control panel, especially if its an arcade button, I learned the hard way people like to push buttons. If your running WinXP or Win2K and you push the power button it will close your applications and perform an orderly shutdown then shut off the PC's power. I think it also does this under Win98SE but I'm not sure and don't have one right here to test. This way you set up Windows to auto login and start your front end or front end launcher of choice. When your down playing you push the button, it closes your applications, exits windows and powers off. You don't have to have extra buttons to navigate Windows or use a mouse or keyboard to select start shutdown.

This method makes my cab simple for anyone, including my wife to operate without any instruction. All they need to know is where the on/off button is and I don't have to worry about them messing things up in Windows. I'm planing to change my start-up and shut down screens and hide my system Post so that you won't even know that its a computer.

Please let me know if you have more questions I'd be happy to try to answer them.

[eightbit]

MinerAl:
yeah theat'll work just fine (it was my original plan)
however there is an easier way....
wire a regular old toggle switch to the top of the cab (authentic!)
this switch will control ac to your powerstrip or distribution block where everything including the comp is plugged in...
for at powersupplies, just leave them switched on.
for atx powersupplies, they can be converted to instant-on by simply cutting the green wire on the atx connector and connecting it to one of the ground leads with a wirenut.
done.

I would not receomend this for Windows unless your going to exit Windows before flipping the switch. Your also hacking up your PC power supply, voiding warrantys, creating fire hazards   (If its me doing the wiring its a fire hazard).

I don't see why it wouldn't work, just like the relay hack works, its just messy and many of us aren't comfortable with a soldering iron or re-wireinng 110v AC.

[Elkor]

While it certainly is true that you are voiding the warranty, it's pretty darn simple to do (the ps that is)
the motherboard just pulls the green lead low when the switch is pressed, no dangerous voltages are involved,
as for hooking the powerstrip to the toggle switch, yeah you may have to strip a few wires but it shouldn't be an issue for anybody who isn't put back by the idea of running 150' of hookup wire through some 50 contacts just to play an arcade game!  
if you are that worried just use a wall switch on the top of the cab, you won't see it anyway and the wires just push in from the back.

The only thing that bothers me about the powerstrip in question is that I don't know if it will work with a computer as the trigger device. (have you tested it yet eightbit?)  technically speaking, ATX supplies are always on and drawing power as they must feed a constant 3.3v to the motherboard and the sense voltage on the powerswitch line even when 'off' .. it depends on how the powestrip is wired as to whether this is enough current to trip the switch or not....

[eightbit]

The only thing that bothers me about the powerstrip in question is that I don't know if it will work with a computer as the trigger device. (have you tested it yet eightbit?)  technically speaking, ATX supplies are always on and drawing power as they must feed a constant 3.3v to the motherboard and the sense voltage on the powerswitch line even when 'off' .. it depends on how the powestrip is wired as to whether this is enough current to trip the switch or not....

The first strip I posted is being sold as a computer power strip to turn on and off with the current from a computer. I have not used it to know that it will work but that is how they are marketing it so I assume it will.

The second one I posted that came from Sears works very well with a PC. I did mention that in my post, admittedly not very clearly.

It was $20 and works very well.

I have cancelled my order of the first one I posted so someone else will need to review it if they get one. When you include shipping I can almost get 2 of the sears one for the price of the other and I have surplus surge protectors laying around. I plan to put these in my other 2 cabinets and will probably buy them for future projects as well. This will solve my problem with my jukebox being a pain to turn on and off.

According to the write up at http://home.bendcable.com/werstlein/ These are the componets for the relay method, I found the prices online-

Radio Shack online
$7.99 - 10-Amp Plug-in Relay-12VDC
$4.99 - Power "Y" Adapter Cable

Home depot online
$.29 - 15 AMP White Residential Grade Duplex Outlet
$1.58 - White End Sectional Duplex Outlet Wallplate
$1.58 - White End Sectional Blank Strap Mounted Wallplate
$3.37 - 4" x 4" Drawn 2-Device Switch Box
$1.97 - Black Residential Grade Vinyl Connector with Steel Cord Clamp
Total= $21.77

I didn't include any wire or a surge protector because with the Sears one you still need a surge protector and I figured most of us have enough wire lying around to complete this project. Half the cost is involved in the enclosure of the relay and there is probably cheaper ways to do it. I followed the write up above. I was very surprised at the total cost, I didn't think it would be so high.

[Chris]

as for hooking the powerstrip to the toggle switch, yeah you may have to strip a few wires but it shouldn't be an issue for anybody who isn't put back by the idea of running 150' of hookup wire through some 50 contacts just to play an arcade game!  

It's not the work; it's the voltage.  I can tell you I was nervous as hell plugging in my hacked powerstrip the first time, especially since it has a metal shell!  One mistake, and zzzzt!

I have a very healthy respect for 110.

--Chris

[Chris]

According to the write up at http://home.bendcable.com/werstlein/ These are the componets for the relay method, I found the prices online-

Radio Shack online
$7.99 - 10-Amp Plug-in Relay-12VDC
$4.99 - Power "Y" Adapter Cable

Home depot online
$.29 - 15 AMP White Residential Grade Duplex Outlet
$1.58 - White End Sectional Duplex Outlet Wallplate
$1.58 - White End Sectional Blank Strap Mounted Wallplate
$3.37 - 4" x 4" Drawn 2-Device Switch Box
$1.97 - Black Residential Grade Vinyl Connector with Steel Cord Clamp
Total= $21.77

Half the cost is involved in the enclosure of the relay and there is probably cheaper ways to do it. I followed the write up above. I was very surprised at the total cost, I didn't think it would be so high.

The only thing on this list that I bought was the relay.  I did buy a relay socket for an additional $2.00.  I already had the powerstrip and I used tap connectors to tap into the 12V line rather than a Y adapter.

Opening up the 6-outlet strip, I found that inside it was three duplex outlets connected together.  Thus, I cut the hot wire connecting the first and second duplex outlets and wired that to the relay.  The relay socket is embedded in a hole cut into the side of the power strip; the relay plugs into that, and thus doesn't need an enclosure.

[eightbit]

I have a very healthy respect for 110.

I've met Mr. 110 and he isn't very nice...  

[eightbit]

The only thing on this list that I bought was the relay.  I did buy a relay socket for an additional $2.00.  I already had the powerstrip and I used tap connectors to tap into the 12V line rather than a Y adapter.

You've still got $10 into it plus you need to get the 12v from the PC and find a power strip with space to mount the relay and take the time to do it.

If you had to do it again would you do it the same or buy the $20 one from Sears?

[rampy]

I have a very healthy respect for 110.

I've met Mr. 110 and he isn't very nice...  

I'm okay with getting bit by 110 once in a while... but man, NEVER touch the 3rd rail.... =)

rampy

bzzzt!

[Chris]

The only thing on this list that I bought was the relay.  I did buy a relay socket for an additional $2.00.  I already had the powerstrip and I used tap connectors to tap into the 12V line rather than a Y adapter.

You've still got $10 into it plus you need to get the 12v from the PC and find a power strip with space to mount the relay and take the time to do it.

If you had to do it again would you do it the same or buy the $20 one from Sears?

That Sears one is pretty slick!  If I didn't already have the powerstrip, I would have probably gotten the Sears one.  That's an excellent find, though, good enough that it should be part of the FAQ in the Power section.

[eightbit]

I'm okay with getting bit by 110 once in a while... but man, NEVER touch the 3rd rail.... =)

Picture of rampy after touching the third rail-

[Zinfari]

Actually I'm still partial to the one eightbit found.  The problem with the sears one is that you have to plug it into the wall so that the outlets remain on the wall at that location.  The one that started this thread has more outlets (nicely configured as well) as well as having always on outlets and since it's a traditional powerstrip you can locate all the outlets in the cab.  Also it states on the website that you can use any of the following for the control outlet.

Control Outlet
Computer
TV
Fluorescent Lamp
Home shop equipment

Fluorescent Lamp is kind of interesting.  You could just turn off the marquee lamp and the monitor other power supplies could all turn off and leave your computer on all the time as many people like to do.  Just a thought.

Zinfari

[eightbit]

Actually I'm still partial to the one eightbit found.  The problem with the sears one is that you have to plug it into the wall.  The one that started this thread has more outlets (nicely configured as well) as well as having always on outlets.  In my opinion it's perfect for a cab.

Actually I found both  

The way the Sears one is shaped lends itself to a wall plug but it could just as easy be on the end of an extension cord or a power strip.

The first one is definately a far nicer unit. It has more than enough outlets (for normal people), its also a surge suppressor, its designed for computers and should work well that way. The Sears one is designed for turning on things like vacumns and lights when you turn on a saw.

I currently have my big cabs PC powered seperately so that it can be on when the cab is off but I'm going to change it to one of these auto switch strips. Now that I have everything configured I rarely use it remotely for maintenance or changes. I'd just as soon have it off not consuming power. I should look into Wake on Lan capabilitys, then I could remotely turn it on and off I can already do with the remote desktop capability of XP.

[planetjay]

The only thing that bothers me about the powerstrip in question is that I don't know if it will work with a computer as the trigger device. (have you tested it yet eightbit?)  technically speaking, ATX supplies are always on and drawing power as they must feed a constant 3.3v to the motherboard and the sense voltage on the powerswitch line even when 'off' .. it depends on how the powestrip is wired as to whether this is enough current to trip the switch or not....

The first strip I posted is being sold as a computer power strip to turn on and off with the current from a computer. I have not used it to know that it will work but that is how they are marketing it so I assume it will.

The second one I posted that came from Sears works very well with a PC. I did mention that in my post, admittedly not very clearly.

It was $20 and works very well.

I have cancelled my order of the first one I posted so someone else will need to review it if they get one. When you include shipping I can almost get 2 of the sears one for the price of the other and I have surplus surge protectors laying around. I plan to put these in my other 2 cabinets and will probably buy them for future projects as well. This will solve my problem with my jukebox being a pain to turn on and off.

According to the write up at http://home.bendcable.com/werstlein/ These are the componets for the relay method, I found the prices online-

Radio Shack online
$7.99 - 10-Amp Plug-in Relay-12VDC
$4.99 - Power "Y" Adapter Cable

Home depot online
$.29 - 15 AMP White Residential Grade Duplex Outlet
$1.58 - White End Sectional Duplex Outlet Wallplate
$1.58 - White End Sectional Blank Strap Mounted Wallplate
$3.37 - 4" x 4" Drawn 2-Device Switch Box
$1.97 - Black Residential Grade Vinyl Connector with Steel Cord Clamp
Total= $21.77

I didn't include any wire or a surge protector because with the Sears one you still need a surge protector and I figured most of us have enough wire lying around to complete this project. Half the cost is involved in the enclosure of the relay and there is probably cheaper ways to do it. I followed the write up above. I was very surprised at the total cost, I didn't think it would be so high.

I did that one for my Jukebox. Only I put mine in a powerstrip. The only thing missing in his is a diode to protect the power supply for negative voltage spikes. I wonder how many power supplies he's went through?

If you want to see mine it's at planetjay.com in the Gallery.

[eightbit]

I did that one for my Jukebox. Only I put mine in a powerstrip. The only thing missing in his is a diode to protect the power supply for negative voltage spikes. I wonder how many power supplies he's went through?

If you want to see mine it's at planetjay.com in the Gallery.

What is this diode you speak of? Many people have been referred to http://home.bendcable.com/werstlein/ as a guide to making the relay hack. There is no diode in his design.

[Chris]

I did that one for my Jukebox. Only I put mine in a powerstrip. The only thing missing in his is a diode to protect the power supply for negative voltage spikes. I wonder how many power supplies he's went through?

If you want to see mine it's at planetjay.com in the Gallery.

What is this diode you speak of? Many people have been referred to http://home.bendcable.com/werstlein/ as a guide to making the relay hack. There is no diode in his design.

Yes, please explain.  The relay is just a switch, so if the strip is susceptible with the relay, it's just as susceptible without the relay, isn't it?

--Chris

[planetjay]

On any DC coil (which a relay has) you should have a diode (reverse biased) in parallel.

The reason is when you remove power from the coil, the magnetic field colapses. As it does it induces a negative voltage back through the circuit.

To stop it a diode is placed across the coil. The diode is reverse biased so that normally it does nothing. However when you remove power, it acts as a short to the negative voltage spike.

Also a small signal diode like the 1N914 and the 1N4148 can not handle the spike for very long. I used a 1N4003 which is rated for 200Volts and 1 Amp. Radio Shack PN 276-1102.

See here for a PDF of a schematic that uses one. Also read the Operation And Testing section for a more brief description than mine. Diode in question is D1.

Another good example is here.

[JuddWack]

All in all i think its pretty cool.  ill probably end up buying one.  i just dont like that i cant mount it on the inside of the box with the button facing out, where my original power switch was.  it would be cool if the switch was on the opposite side.  would it be dificult to somehow disconnect the switch from the box, and add a multiswitch or something?

[eightbit]

All in all i think its pretty cool.  ill probably end up buying one.  i just dont like that i cant mount it on the inside of the box with the button facing out, where my original power switch was.  it would be cool if the switch was on the opposite side.  would it be dificult to somehow disconnect the switch from the box, and add a multiswitch or something?

Huh? What switch? If you mean the power strip switch this whole thread is about not using it.

[eightbit]

PlanetJay told me that these are common, I challenged him and I'd like to challenge others to find other companys making a similar product.

Please post any links you can find or confirmed store sightings.

Heres a link to one for $39 that is no longer being made. http://www.sousley.com/280/0121.htm

[planetjay]

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