Author Topic: Mario Bros. Arcade Reproduction - Now with POW Block Stool (Read 18298 times)

wilef · « **Reply #40 on:** May 02, 2006, 06:20:43 pm »

Good eye!
The third cabinet is a Street Fighter II Hyper Fighting that my brother picked up at a garage sale for $150. The cabinet will get some much needed cosmetic restoration, but the important part is that the monitor is crisp with no burn-in, and the board looks brand new.

I was meaning to do this for awhile now, so your post made me do it. I just made a blog for this project too: http://streetfighterarcade.blogspot.com/

The marquee retainers are L-shaped brackets that I got at Home Depot. They came in 4 ft. pieces so one piece made 2 retainers (4 needed for each cab, 2 for marquee, 2 for bezel). The brackets cost about $4 each and the ones I got were 1/16" thick and 3/4" for each side (they come in many different sizes, widths, and thicknesses). I primed them with Rustoleum Clean Metal Primer spray and then painted them black with Rustoleum Painter's Touch black spray paint.

And the CP will be the best part, I can't wait either!

Hiub1 · « **Reply #41 on:** May 03, 2006, 09:51:05 am »

Holy crap man! That looks fricking awesome. I am guessing a nice 19'' arcade monitor is going in this puppy right? What are you doing for the control panel?

Keep up the good work.

wilef · « **Reply #42 on:** May 03, 2006, 02:48:33 pm »

Actually I'll be using a 20" PC monitor, the CP will look like the attached picture below, a modified version of the original (also attached). The rearranging of graphics will allow for a 6-button layout. What do you think?

wilef · « **Reply #43 on:** May 03, 2006, 02:53:04 pm »

Here's the CP with the outline of buttons/joysticks.

Hiub1 · « **Reply #44 on:** May 03, 2006, 03:41:37 pm »

The overlay looks sweet! Any particular reason why you're going with the PC monitor? I recently was able to configure an old Radeon 9200SE (not an ArcadeVGA) to display the 15 KHz for an arcade monitor very easily. Let me know if you want to know more!

wilef · « **Reply #45 on:** May 03, 2006, 04:23:20 pm »

The main reason is cost. I was able to snag a 20" PC monitor for free and am going to see if I'm satisfied with that solution. What's the benefit of using an arcade monitor? I don't know much about that. Thanks.

Hiub1 · « **Reply #46 on:** May 03, 2006, 04:28:37 pm »

The advantage of using an arcade monitor is that the picture will be faithful to the original. Look on the Wiki, there is a load of information there about arcade monitors. As nice as your cabinet is coming out, I think that it deserves to have a nice arcade monitor, but you can always make do with the PC monitor until you can scrounge up enough cash for the arcade one. You can pick up a brand new 19'' monitor from 8 Liners for $110 plus shipping of around $50, so you are looking at around $160 for a good one.

wilef · « **Reply #47 on:** May 03, 2006, 04:30:35 pm »

Alright,
Thanks for the info, I'll take a look at that.

wilef · « **Reply #48 on:** May 15, 2006, 02:38:47 pm »

Got the locks in the mail and installed the coin door lock. Just need to drill the hole in the back door for the door lock (which is a little thicker and deeper for the depth of the wood). I hope to get a lot done this coming weekend.

SithMaster · « **Reply #49 on:** May 15, 2006, 05:01:02 pm »

what type of bolts did you use for the coin door? i have a nintendo one as well and they are square which i think is odd.

and for your retainer was it custom cut in the home depot for the length and did they drill holes?

wilef · « **Reply #50 on:** May 15, 2006, 05:19:48 pm »

The retainer I cut at home to the desired length (a hair under 22.5"), then filed down the rough edges, painted it and then drilled the holes. It may have been better to drill the holes before painting, but it worked out for me.

The bolts were really hard to find. Home Depot, Lowe's and Osh didn't have them. I got them at an Ace hardware. They were 1" long and the square portion was 3/16" to a side. The nuts are size: 10-24.

wilef · « **Reply #51 on:** May 22, 2006, 09:13:55 pm »

The cabinet looks great, side art applied, worth checking out!

http://mariobrosarcade.blogspot.com/

CheffoJeffo · « **Reply #52 on:** May 22, 2006, 09:16:42 pm »

Looking great ... this has been one of my favourite projects to watch.

Cheers.

Hiub1 · « **Reply #53 on:** May 22, 2006, 09:47:02 pm »

Dude, you better put that arcade monitor in there! AWESOME!

wilef · « **Reply #54 on:** May 23, 2006, 12:51:04 pm »

Thanks guys, it's so great to see it come this far. Every time I walk into the room I just have to stare at it for a minute. I'm not trying to toot my own horn, there's no way it could have gotten done without my friend Marc or my dad (thanks guys!), but it's pretty rewarding to see it go from a couple sheets of MDF to a beautiful cabinet in six months time.

Hiub1, I hear you...I'm going to get it up and running with the PC monitor I have and then start convincing my wife that an arcade monitor would be better. I just need to do it one step at a time

mccoy178 · « **Reply #55 on:** May 23, 2006, 02:44:25 pm »

That machine looks great!

Awesome work, as it looks very professional.

psychopanda · « **Reply #56 on:** May 25, 2006, 03:46:02 pm »

Really good work all around! Everything looks so clean and perfect.

Between your cab and Bones', I'm about 90% convinced that I will paint the sides of my cab a different color. I was originally going to do the basic black and blue t-molding thing. The other day I decided to pick up some blue paint, can't remember the color but it's a light blue similar to what you've used. Only problem is that I have to figure out what t-molding color to go with now.

wilef · « **Reply #57 on:** May 29, 2006, 04:17:46 pm »

I got my CPO last week, but I wanted to know if anyone had tips on applying it. I was thinking of lining it up with the control panel and drilling pilot holes, then taking it away and drilling the real holes through just the control panel. Then applying the CPO and cutting the holes in it. Is that a good process or is there a better way?

wilef · « **Reply #58 on:** June 02, 2006, 05:02:56 pm »

Anyone? Another question I have is do I apply a thin layer of plexi on top to protect the surface? On some machines I've seen, that looks really slick. Any help would be appreciated.

theCoder · « **Reply #59 on:** June 03, 2006, 12:01:15 pm »

Quote from: wilef on May 29, 2006, 04:17:46 pm

I got my CPO last week, but I wanted to know if anyone had tips on applying it. I was thinking of lining it up with the control panel and drilling pilot holes, then taking it away and drilling the real holes through just the control panel. Then applying the CPO and cutting the holes in it. Is that a good process or is there a better way?

I'm no expert but I'm rapidly approaching this phase on my project. There are lots of comments on the topic in this forum as well as in the Arcade Project book. Your approach lines up with what I've read so far. Cut the wood to the artwork, not the other way around.

wilef · « **Reply #60 on:** June 07, 2006, 08:49:48 pm »

Updated pictures of the Donkey Kong 3 cabinet...

http:\\mariobrosarcade.blogspot.com

Crafty · « **Reply #61 on:** June 07, 2006, 11:49:06 pm »

Both these cabinets look amazing.

It's hard to build a cabinet harder to produce an authentic reproduction.

Kep the photo's coming

dweebs0r · « **Reply #62 on:** June 09, 2006, 12:16:41 am »

These are my favorite two cabs in some time.

Keep up the photo updates everything is looking awesome!

-D

wilef · « **Reply #63 on:** July 19, 2006, 07:19:35 pm »

I have some photos I need to upload of the control panel coming together which I'll try to do soon. However, I'm running into a problem as I'm wiring up the CP. The problem is that the buttons and joysticks are too far 'down' on the control panel that they hit the front speaker grill panel when closed. I can't believe I didn't realize/measure this beforehand, but I will need to dremel out chunks of the inside of the speaker grill panel for this to work. I'm not about to rebuy a CPO or redrill a CP, so this is my best option. I need to wait until Marc (the guy that helped me with the project) gets back from his honeymoon to borrow his dremel.

dweebs0r · « **Reply #64 on:** July 19, 2006, 07:35:00 pm »

Glad to hear that some progress pics are forthcoming. I have really enjoyed watching this build.

-D

leapinlew · « **Reply #65 on:** July 19, 2006, 11:18:02 pm »

Quote from: wilef on July 19, 2006, 07:19:35 pm

I have some photos I need to upload of the control panel coming together which I'll try to do soon. However, I'm running into a problem as I'm wiring up the CP. The problem is that the buttons and joysticks are too far 'down' on the control panel that they hit the front speaker grill panel when closed. I can't believe I didn't realize/measure this beforehand, but I will need to dremel out chunks of the inside of the speaker grill panel for this to work. I'm not about to rebuy a CPO or redrill a CP, so this is my best option. I need to wait until Marc (the guy that helped me with the project) gets back from his honeymoon to borrow his dremel.

Ya know... I had this same problem. My solution was to take a dremel to it. I ended up disliking the results and wishing I never did it. I'm sure your dremeling skills will be better than mine... Eventually I couldn't take it and what I ended up doing was building a new CP and moving the joysticks. higher up. Here is a pic before I redid my cabinet:

It wasn't pretty. Your call! Either way, I'm sure you'll do a good job with it.

dweebs0r · « **Reply #66 on:** July 26, 2006, 12:05:05 pm »

Is that an original monitor bezel and marquee?

If its not, post some details on them please, I have to do a monitor bezel soon and I could use the info.

-D

wilef · « **Reply #67 on:** July 26, 2006, 12:33:11 pm »

Yes, they are originals I found off ebay. I just thought they would look better than anything I could have printed up. I do have a marquee I had printed that I'm not using if it's something you're interested in. It was printed on a plastic material and looks nice, but would need to be placed between or behind some thicker plexi to give it 'weight'. Otherwise just keep checking ebay or quarterarcade.com.

wilef · « **Reply #68 on:** July 26, 2006, 12:34:31 pm »

leapinlew,
Thanks for the picture and the warning. I may go ahead and try it anyway. I'll post the results when I go for it.

wilef · « **Reply #69 on:** September 13, 2006, 05:34:34 pm »

A few new pictures and updates for the Mario cab on my blog: Mario Bros. Arcade Reproduction

I'm almost done!!!

wilef · « **Reply #70 on:** November 28, 2006, 06:34:31 pm »

New DK3 Reproduction pics up: http://mariobrosarcade.blogspot.com

And I've finished the Mario cabinet, look for pics soon!

wilef · « **Reply #71 on:** January 23, 2007, 02:15:08 am »

Another update to the site. Final pictures of the Donkey Kong 3 cabinet are up. It's wired and playable now and it's a beautiful machine.

http://mariobrosarcade.blogspot.com

Naru · « **Reply #72 on:** January 23, 2007, 02:26:00 am »

Wow....pretty!
That's Donkey Kong 3 looks great.
Man, that's just great!

wilef · « **Reply #73 on:** February 02, 2008, 11:52:29 pm »

Final pictures are finally up.

http://mariobrosarcade.blogspot.com/

leapinlew · « **Reply #74 on:** February 03, 2008, 12:21:25 am »

Awesome looks great... Mario Bros. was one of my favorite all time games.

All the Nintendo machines I've had had a black cardboard bezel that laid across the monitor to hide all the brackets and everything else inside the cabinet. You may want to do the same.

Here is a shot of my donkey kong, notice you can't see anything inside the cabinet:

wilef · « **Reply #75 on:** February 03, 2008, 12:38:59 am »

is that a part you found somewhere or did you make something that fits?

leapinlew · « **Reply #76 on:** February 03, 2008, 03:45:45 am »

Quote from: wilef on February 03, 2008, 12:38:59 am

is that a part you found somewhere or did you make something that fits?

I just used some black poster board. The bezel in the nintendo machines seemed to be just normal paper - maybe it had a little more plastic feel to it and it was glued to the monitor (I didn't glue mine to the monitor).

Once it's in - it's invisible and the image appears to float in the middle of the game.

javeryh · « **Reply #77 on:** February 03, 2008, 08:29:15 am »

These cabs are stunning.

Lutus · « **Reply #78 on:** February 04, 2008, 01:42:26 pm »

I also have a donkey kong machine and the original black cardboard bezel was in it. VERY dusty though, so I took it out and spray painted flat black again. I also put some thin velcro on the corners where it touches the monitor (and put corresponding velcro on the edges of the monitor itself) so that way the bezel sit firmly against the monitor, won't shift, and can be easily removed.

Velcro is like 2 dollars.

And this post is worth 0.02 dollars.

wilef · « **Reply #79 on:** February 04, 2009, 05:08:55 pm »

It's been a long while, but I've added new coin mechs and a custom POW Block stool to compliment it!

http://mariobrosarcade.blogspot.com/


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