T2 Gun Question

[Minwah]

I've recently got a T2 gun and just have a few questions...I haven't played the real arcade version much and I can't remember a lot about it.

What do the red/green LED's do?
How does the recoil work (I know the software controls it, just wondering how/when)?
Is it possible to adjust the amount of up/down travel?

My last question is because the amount of up/down travel seems very small.  I can't seem to cover much of my screen at all...I presume this is due to the gun not being far enough from the screen.  However 1UP describes his guns as working just like the arcade, but in the (2nd) picture here ( http://1uparcade.robandmitsue.com/projects-t2guns.html ) it looks as though the guns would struggle to point down to the lower half of the screen.

Any tips?

[Ken Layton]

What do the red/green LED's do?
How does the recoil work (I know the software controls it, just wondering how/when)?
Is it possible to adjust the amount of up/down travel?

My last question is because the amount of up/down travel seems very small.

[Nipedley]

Mostly right however the led's are for targets, the green led lights when you have a shootable target (ie; a terminator, a HK) and the red lights when you target a human. It might be for the ammo too, but I havent noticed it

If you have any other questions feel free to ask, I have a couple as well. My player 1 gun just started acting up, not electrically but er... physically. It will move to a degree forwards and back, and then it will "stick" and doesnt want to move forward, it can be forced but makes a loud click sound. I checked out the internals, and while I cant get completely inside to see whats up with the axis, the gear appears fine. No cracks, no teeth broken etc. any ideas?

[Minwah]

Thanks for the replies...what I was getting at for the recoil tho was when is it actually activated?  I would think every time a shot is fired but in that case why does the game need to trigger the recoil (why not have it controlled by the gun hardware itself)?  Is this because this is the easiest method to cope with recoil while holding the trigger down?  Or is the recoil also triggered when the player takes damage?

Nipedley: sorry I can't help with your problem, I haven't even opened my gun up (don't think I have the right tools atm).

[Nipedley]

No worries, I just fixed it myself =) It turns out it was the gear pinion (or so the manual says), while attempting to dissassemble the small cage that guards the Y axis stuff so I could see what was wrong I inadvertently fixed the problem, the gear pinion screw (somehow) had tightened itself? and mis-aligned itself in the process, while I was unscrewing it I noticed the gun suddenly freed up and had the full range of motion again, its back up now =) The tools you're looking for (I would presume, this is what mine had and the manual lists) are Torx bits, T-25 I believe it is (Either that or T-20), I managed to find some at a local hardware store

Note though, that when turning on to test afterwards the monitor had screwed itself (again) and all I got were a few grey outlines and a black background on the ROM test. Ah the fun of arcades eh

Also I don't recall taking any recoil when being damaged, though its possible my memory is just borked. I havent used the machine properly for about 4 weeks (mixture of school, holiday, and monitor troubles)

On this subject, does anyone (IE. Ken, Monitorguru, anyone else that know =)) know what IC1 is on a K7000? Randy Fromm's flowchart said that IC1 can affect colour, and I doubt its transistors or a heater short because ALL colours seem to be missing and randomly appear, no retrace lines, which would suggest a component failure - but because it isnt singular, either all of them are malfunctioning or I have a feeling IC1 is on the fritz... I'd get a replacement, but I dont know what it is

[Ken Layton]

From the k7000 manual:

IC1: Type UPC1397C (function: R-G-B signal processor/amplifier)

I've had non-polorized capacitors C4, C5, and C6 go open (or intermittently open!) thus killing the color signals going into IC1.
 
The k7000 is well known for many bad solder joints. It's probably time for a cap kit too. Be aware that capacitors C4, C5, and C6 are NOT included in cap kits.

[Nipedley]

Thank you, Ken! =) Yep the monitor is on my (long) to-do list, I plan to do a capkit, replace the transistors, IC1 and also check for any bad solder joints. I'll get those capacitors because I'm in the UK and don't actually have a source for capkits so I have to make them up myself, thanks again. =) I would say that bad solder joints are a *very* likely possiblity, the poor old thing was brought over on a truck from Germany (probably not very smooth)