LED controller news! Pricing Announced!

[Buddabing]

After a lot of sifting through various web sites looking for parts, I've gotten a price for you.

My LED controller boards will be priced at $69.95 plus shipping.

This includes the controller board, a parallel port cable, a power cable, and a CD-R with software. It does not include LEDs or wiring.

I apologize for not being able to offer the board to you cheaper. I was hoping for a better price, but it just didn't work out that way.

Once I go to the post office to see how much shipping is to the continental U.S., I'll post what the shipping cost is. At that point I'll start taking preorders.

Here's how the preorders will work. You send me a money order for the price of the board plus shipping. Once I have enough money to order the parts, I do that. Boards will be shipped in the order that the preorders are received. Note that I didn't mention PayPal. That's because I will not accept PayPal for the preorders. I will accept it once the preorders are done.

I don't want to take overseas money orders, so the Euros, Aussies and others will have to wait to order their boards until preordering is done.

The reason I'm not taking PayPal for the preorders is that if not enough preorders are made within a certain time span, I'll cancel this venture and mail you back all your money orders. I'll be out stamps for everyone's money orders, I don't want to be out Paypal charges as well.

I will post back with the shipping cost. I'll also post a FAQ.

Regards,
Buddabing

[jcoleman]

Is this the LED Driver that's reviewed at RetroBlast?

[JoyMonkey]

Why not call it "JoyMonkey's Emulighting Controller".
I would be honoured!

[JoyMonkey]

Is this the LED Driver that's reviewed at RetroBlast?

Nope, this is a much more advanced board capable of running lots and lots of LEDs using GLitters Light Engine.
If you missed it, here's a little thread about it.

[Hoopz]

I trust ya.  I'm in for prepaying for one.

[Lilwolf]

Budda Bling Bling Board

Since it really brings the "Bling Bling" to a cab.... Sounds appropriate to me.

[Silver]

Depending on specs/price I'd be in for one (or two depending on abilities).

I take it any kind on USB connection is well out? Can you get parallel->USB converters?

[Gamecab]

How's this name -  "BuddaBlingBlaster"

Also, I'm going to keep the test video up on the GameCab website for a while.  This is the light test from the first set of prototypes that Budda and I created.
http://www.gamecab.com/video/40led.htm

[SirPoonga]

I take it any kind on USB connection is well out? Can you get parallel->USB converters?

Yes, but expensive since you are converting parallel data to serial and vice versa.

[2600]

I take it any kind on USB connection is well out? Can you get parallel->USB converters?

Yes, but expensive since you are converting parallel data to serial and vice versa.

Don't think that's the reason they cost more, but let's not pollute Budda's thread.

[Buddabing]

Depending on specs/price I'd be in for one (or two depending on abilities).

I take it any kind on USB connection is well out? Can you get parallel->USB converters?

Randy's controller is USB, so I will not be making a USB interface to my board.

If I was to make any other interface it would be SMBus.

[Stingray]

Might be interested in pre-ordering depending on the price.

-S

[Buddabing]

Of course, all this is contingent on me not perishing in Hurricane Rita.

If I do get killed, Gamecab can sell his prototype on Ebay:
OMG! R@RE LED CONTROLLER BOARD!! MAME JAMMA!!!111one!!!

[Gamecab]

Of course, all this is contingent on me not perishing in Hurricane Rita.

If I do get killed, Gamecab can sell his prototype on Ebay:
OMG! R@RE LED CONTROLLER BOARD!! MAME JAMMA!!!111one!!!

Oh no, You will be staying in a GameCab approved storm shelter because I need to get ready for the second run of the 2G flight yokes.  But if the worst happens I will pick up the torch and continue the Budda ways of multi led illumination. 
( Stay Safe, I have a garage load of material that is itching to become future yoke parts)  Sorry about the plug shameless

Charlie

[Buddabing]

I've updated the first page of this post with pricing and ordering information.

[KevSteele]

How about calling it the "LED Blaster"?

Unless Creative's trademarked the word Blaster, of course. 

Kevin

[sirwoogie]

I think the helpful item here would to produce a link to a spec page or put the information into the top message. I don't think people want to sift through a 9 page thread that was created initially for the POC.

[Raleigh]

The reason I'm not taking PayPal for the preorders is that if not enough preorders are made within a certain time span, I'll cancel this venture and mail you back all your money orders. I'll be out stamps for everyone's money orders, I don't want to be out Paypal charges as well.

From paypal "You can issue a full or partial refund for 60 days after the original payment was sent. Enter the refund amount you wish to send your buyer and click Calculate. PayPal will calculate the fees eligible for credit back to your account based on a percentage of the refund amount."

When you refund a paypal payment the fees are instantly reversed.  So you would not be out anything if you do not get enough preorders, not even a stamp.   Just a FYI.

[Buddabing]

Thanks for the info.

I had not decided on a deadline for the preorders. I was thinking end of year, that would be about 90 days.

[Raleigh]

I am sure that if people are willing to wait up to 90 days with you holding their money they would not have a problem with you refunding paypal at day 50 and them making a new paypal payment to add another 60 days.   I just think having payment options could possibly help swing a few people.

[KevSteele]

I've definitely got to put in a vote for PayPal, especially since you can refund payments without incurring any fees (and reversing those already applied) -- getting a money order and mailing it is just a major hassle, and I'm a lazy, lazy man...

[Buddabing]

I have decided to take Paypal for the prepayments. My Paypal account is a free account, and therefore cannot take all types of payment. I believe a direct Paypal to Paypal transfer will work.

The problem with taking Paypal is that I have to keep track of when each person's payment comes in. Alternatively, I can just refund everyone after the first payment is 50 days old, even though the most recent prepayment might be 3 days old.

Shipping will be $5.00.

[Silver]

Does this paypal change the position of international people?

Also - on a related note - to really take advantage of this feature, do I have to replace all my buttons/joysticks/trackballs with illuminous versions? 

[Buddabing]

Does this paypal change the position of international people?

Also - on a related note - to really take advantage of this feature, do I have to replace all my buttons/joysticks/trackballs with illuminous versions?

[Buddabing]

Link to board specifications

Link to FAQ

[quarterback]

Can you give us some idea of how the software works/how the LEDs are controlled by the user?

How tough will it be to set up patterns of my choice?   Can every individual LED be controlled independently and how complex will it be to do so? 

I think about RandyT's software for setting up the GPWiz49, it appears to be very user friendly.  There are graphics that represent what each setting will do.   Is the control software along those lines or will it be more command-line where you:  enter the m.amp you want for led #23, now enter what you want driving LED #8, if you want #14 to turn off when #8 goes on, then enter delay=u*6sec+LED8 etc etc etc

[Buddabing]

Can you give us some idea of how the software works/how the LEDs are controlled by the user?

How tough will it be to set up patterns of my choice?

[quarterback]

I wrote an animation language that is capable of controlling all the LEDs independently.

The problem with the GUI is that it is difficult to be OS-independent with one.

Yeah, I totally understand why you wouldn't/couldn't wrap it in a GUI as 'easy' as the GPWiz49 example I gave, but it would be nice if there was some kind of front end made available where people could click radio buttons or check boxes or just enter times and LED identifiers which would then write the script for them.

I'm no idiot, but everytime I have to change my mame.ini settings or do something to MameWah I find myself back at stage one and having to pour over the docs again just because it's a 'language' I don't 'speak' more than once or twice.  And I'm sure that I'm not the only one, so some kind of front end might help.

Anyway, I was just curious how it would be set up.   
Thanks.

[Silver]

The best feature of this controller is lighting up stuff. You could just drill holes in your CP and put LEDs in them that light up in patterns. But even the brightest LED won't light up a black button. That's why this controller would work well with Shawnzilla's translucent buttons.

Talk about asking a question I already new the answer to! You're right of course... just worried about wasting all the controls I already own...

Still buttons shoudn't be tooo expensive to replace, although I think I may give up on joysticks (or use little leds). Trackballs - If I get an translucent ball to replace the normal one that should work. If I can get one now Happs have closed there UK outlet.... so much more wiring to plan....

[JONTHEBOMB]

Hello,

I found this on the FAQ: Does the controller support RGB LEDs?
Yes. The RGB LEDs must be common anode, NOT common cathode. Supported RGB LEDs will have four legs, one for each of red, green, and blue, and one for the common anode.

I looked on superbrightleds.com and it looks like they have only  common cathode RGB LEDs.  If this is true where could I find a place that sells RGB LED's with a common anode?

Thanks

[Buddabing]

I see these on their website:

  RL5-RGB-C TriColor LED

Red/Green/Blue Super Bright Led
with water clear lens
Available with Common Anode or Common Cathode


$ 1.59
 

  RL5-RGB-D TriColor LED

Red/Green/Blue Super Bright Led
with diffused lens
Available with Common Anode or Common Cathode


$ 1.59
 

[JONTHEBOMB]

Hello again,

I want in on this excellent project and now I am wondering how to get a money order.  First do I get a money order through the post office or the bank?
After I get the money order then would I send it to you in Houston?

Thanks

[Buddabing]

I get money orders at the grocery store. Kroger, etc.

PM me for my mailing address.

Thanks,
Buddabing

[Silver]

This may not be the best place for this but its related...

Everyone doing the illuminating thing tends to refer to superbrite LEDs, which is great - they are cheap and readily available. But theres a huge range in brightness, measurerd in "mcd's"

What mcd rating is suggested/been tested? Obviously this depends on the button -  I think I'm going to test illuminating standard (non-translucent) buttons first to see the result. Just wondered what results people had had with what rating.

Also re:pre-orders. I've not jumped on yet as my system does not have a parallel port, but it does not look like adding one via a pci card is too complicated...

[Buddabing]

Mine are 11000 mcd. They are freaking bright. That's why I installed a potentiometer on the board to regulate the maximum current going through the LEDs.

You should be able to use 8000 mcd LEDs with no problem.

My standard black buttons are opaque to the light of the 11000 mcd LEDs. Standard start buttons light okay.

[Silver]

Ok thanks - I've now got a batch of 10000 mcd coming for testing.

I presumed black buttons are staying black - I can't really see what color they would be expected to glow ;-)

I've got a load of red and blue opaque. If they are useless at 10000 I'll probably opt for some translucent buttons (or even test some "70,000" mcd leds - although they sound harmful!). Depends whats cheapest - the uk distributor for fxbuttons seems to be selling translucent buttons on ebay for nearly $5.5 US/button which seems way too much to me (although they do come with led - although these are dirt cheap).

Is there a guide anywhere for attaching the leds to non-leaf buttons? I was planning to drill a hole in the bottom (above the microswitch) but not sure if thats the best approach...