Hmm... I'm suprised, as when it comes right down to it, the main TIE fighter fight is essentially a gun game. How does your controller feel in Star Wars compared to a real yoke?
I was going to agree with you on the yoke for driving games, and then I remembered some of the E-mails that I'd sent back and forth and I don't think it will do the job. A star wars yoke was limited to about 90 degrees of travel in the X-axis (side to side) and less than that (maybe about 45-degrees, maybe less) in the Y-axis (up and down). Either the yoke will work for 270 degree games, but you'll have to make it super sensitive in star wars (and still not hit the stops like a real controller would) or you will have to have the yoke limited to 90 degrees and have your driving games so limited that controlling the car would be an issue.
It's the axes that I'd be worried about, not the shell. All that twisting could really put a strain on plastic shafts... a plastic shell over a metal structure would be fine, though...
Agreed, just talking from personal experience. I haven't started my cab yet, so I still use a PC joystick for MAME. They cost about $2 on sale and I break one about every three months. I expect the Happ joysticks to last longer, but I would be Pi**ed if I spent $150 on an Act-Labs SW yoke and it broke in three months. The original yoke was all steel except for the buttons and internal gears.
All the more reason for you to write it up so we don't make the same mistakes.... 
Chris, I typed a reply to your earlier post. Be glad my computer locked up before I sent it. Have you ever been to Xiaou2's site? He DID write it up! (or at least he posted pictures of what he did and I think if you read his Super Hang-On controller write-up, you will see most of the guts of his Star Wars yoke control. I know he didn't say "the handles are 2-inches by 5-inches with a .2-inch radius corner", but that's probably b/c they are hand-made and he just quit sanding when he was happy with the feel.
I was amused by your statement "Several people have promised detailed measurements and photos of their disassembled yokes, but none have ever done it." I personally started a thread on trying to make a Twisty-Grip look more like a Star Wars yoke. In my research I got detailed measurements for all the components I needed from either Jude (Star Wars yoke conversion on the main BYOAC site) or 1-Up. I posted the dimensions I was working to (I think), but Real Life got in the way of my pursuing the project.
Let's face it though. Most of us have jobs apart from building arcade controls. And if my job WERE building arcade controls, I don't think I'd be posting "And this is what the internal dimensions are and this is who I buy my supplies from and this is how I machine the raw stock I purchase, etc." Bottom line is most of us are trying to get OUR personal controls working, and along the way if we can help someone else out, so much the better, but that's really a secondary concern.
Just out of curiosity, which detailed measurement do you want and why? I doubt Act-Labs would make a reproduction to the point of making an internally faithful reproduction of a SW yoke, (b/c there are cheaper ways of making one aside from the fact that someone else still holds the Atari Copyrights on the design.) And I doubt you wanted to machine and sell reproductions yourself.
I mean personally, I wanted to know the below panel depth required, b/c if I bought one off E-bay I wanted to know that the desktop console I designed to house it would have enough clearance, but if I were designing it from scratch, I certainly wouldn't worry about "It better have XX.X inches of below panel depth and have a YY.Y inch diameter gear wheel b/c that's what the original one had!!!"
Anyway, I didn't mean to jump on your case, but it bugs me when people act like someone else owes them something when they don't (like when people complain about OutRun not working in the current MAME even though MAME is a free download and even open source. (although 1-Up might accuse me of the same thing, so I think I'll shut up now ;-) )