Multimeter to test my bad IPAC? -problem found

[Timoe]

I wired up an IPAC-2 yesterday and it is not working at all.

[Jabba]

Multimeter works based on resistance.

Get a piece of wire that is good for testing (i.e., no breaks in it). Touch one end of the probe to one side, the other probe to the other side. Turn the dial until you get a reading when you touch/let go of on of the probe sides (I don't have a Multimeter in front of me. It will be a low setting in the bottom right hand of the switch, think it looks like a analogue wave).  You are testing the resistance. With a good wire, there is resistance, with a bad one, there is no resistance (i.e., a break in the flow.

This is the basic premise, look for where there is no resistance. Touch one end to your ground on the IPAC and then systematically touch each connection point on fhe daisy. There should be resistance. Make sure you touch the connector as there may be a bad connection.

Test each of the swicth connectors as well.

Hope this makes sense.

[Timoe]

So crimp one probe on the ground wire that would go into the IPAC (disconnect it from the ipac first I imagine?) then take the other probe and check each switch individually?

Makes sense.  I just wanted to be sure because I want this thing to work.  All my other experiences have been trouble free.

[NoOne=NBA=]

First off, is the I-pac showing up in the device manager?
If not, your problem is with the device not being recognized, not with your wiring.
If it shows up, but doesn't register keys, then your problem is probably with the wiring.

I would start simple, and check the ground loop first.
Connect one lead of the multimeter to the middle of the daisy chain somewhere, and see if you are getting continuity to the ground terminal on the I-pac.

You want to use the "OHMS", or "Resistance" part of the multimeter.
If there is a setting marked CONT, use that.
It will beep when you have continuity.
If not, use one of the resistance settings.
The needle will go to zero on an analog, or you will read 0 Ohms on a good connection.

If you are not getting a connection from the middle of your ground loop to the ground terminal on the I-pac, double-check all the wiring on the ground loop.

[Timoe]

I got the multimeter and tested all the connections.  Everything is good.

now I'm worried.  I got the thing working and I played a game of Total Carnage.  It was great.  Then I went to exit into Mamewah and the joystick no longer controlled the list.  I pressed a couple buttons and my COMPUTER TURNED OFF/crashed.

I have no idea at this point.

windows XP btw

[NoOne=NBA=]

I would try to get as much information as possible on what is happening, and when.

That way you can fire an email off to Andy, and he should be able to pinpoint your trouble better than most of the people here.


Is your I-pac plugged directly into one of the USB ports on the computer?

If not, I would try that next.
You will have alot less problems with most USB stuff by plugging it in directly, than by running through hubs and daisychains.

[Timoe]

I was using the P/S2 but then I tried the USB option and for a second the little "new usb device detected" popped up and then it said "IPAC blah blah"  then another little window popped up saying that "There were problems installing your device, it may not work properly" or something to that effect.  I think I will try and email Andy.  But of course, I want a solution now 

Thank you very much for your help.

[NoOne=NBA=]

I tend to forget that MOST people hook those up via PS/2.
That wasn't an option on my Mac-based cab.

Have you tried starting up with just the I-pac connected (no keyboards, mice, lightguns, joysticks, pedals, etc...), to see if it's a device conflict?

[RayB]

Patiently re-check each control connection and make sure you didn't make any mistakes.

[NoOne=NBA=]

Alternately, you could disconnect everything except one button, and see if it works then.

That's the "impatient" method.

[Quarters]

Don't forget to check for led error codes. as on the bottom of this page:
http://www.ultimarc.com/ipac2.html

[Timoe]

Turns out it was a bad IPAC.

I swapped it with another i had and hooked it up and everything worked perfect.  The bad Ipac was purchased just about a month ago.  I bought 2, one went into another control panel and it works fine.  I felt bad being one of those noobies that asks "whats wrong with my IPAC" but I was so frustrated. 

I had traded some dreamcast games for a few buttons and a broken IPAC 2 months ago.  The broken IPAC just needed to have the main chip re-seated as one of the pins got bent under during assembly.

I know nothing of chips and their handling but like a dumassk I though I'd fiddle with the thing while walking from my garage to my living room and ....POP that little chip came right off and bent a few more pins in the process.  So I bent all the pins back in place (while walking up stairs) and they felt like they might snap off now at any second.  I squished the chip back onto the IPAC PCB, I plugged it in and everything worked PERFECT.  I did not treat this thing delicately and it worked like a champ.

Meanwhile my new IPAC is broken and funky and I have no idea why.  I will try and email Ultimarc and see if I can mail it back or something.  Anyway thank you to everyone for your help and now I have a multimeter!

Here's the CP that this IPAC went into, a modded Pelican Stick