How do I flush mount a trackball?

[javeryh]

I have a 5" x 5" hole cut in my cocktail CP (the third, long one for horizontal games) and the 4 holes are drilled for the trackball plate.  I plan to cover the CP with artwork of some kind.  I'd like to hide the trackball mounting plate if possible.

If I put the trackball plate in the holes and trace it and then use my router and a dado cutting bit to cut the inside of my trace down the thickness of the plate (so the plate will sit in the routed square and be flush with the CP) will this do the trick?  I can't think of any other way to do it but I'd rather not ruin my CP if there is a better way. 

Also, how do I cut the hole perfectly square using my router?  Thanks!

[stevodevo]

That's how I did mine...does the hole have to be "perfectly" square?  I mean the artwork on mine covers any imperfections.

[javeryh]

That's true I guess... hmmm... I guess an eyeball job will have to do and if I get it close enough the artwork will cover the mess I'm going to make.  I should probably get the artwork printed on something heavy though so it doesn't tear above one of the imperfections...

How do you cut the circle in the artowrk for the track ball? - now that has to be perfect!

[AmericanDemon]

Don't forget that you can always fix any mistakes on the cutting with wood putty.  Dand it down smooth and its perfect.  As far as the hole, I personally am planning to use an exacto knife to trim.  But thats me.

[Minwah]

I've just done mine the same (trackball mounting I mean).  Wasn't as hard as I thought actually.

I'm going to use a craft knife on the artwork also...I'm a bit more worried about messing that part up!

[pointdablame]

If you don't plan on taking the trackball out anytime soon, and you are worried about your art being affected by any imperfections, route out the plate, and then putty the imperfections and the lines as AmericanDemon said.  You can then have a perfectly flat surface to work with... although it's a bit harder to remove the trackball plate if you have to.

[stevodevo]

yeah use a *sharp* craft knife for the artwork...and use something round as a template don't try to freehand it unless you're a cyborg...

[javeryh]

Good thing I happen to be a cyborg then!  Actually, a stencil or something is a good idea - I wonder if you can buy a compass that accepts razors?

[rdagger]

It may be too late since you already cut the hole in your CP, but I flush mounted my trackball without a mounting plate.  Here's a link.

[Minwah]

It may be too late since you already cut the hole in your CP, but I flush mounted my trackball without a mounting plate.  Here's a link.

Nice

[nickbuol]

I agree with the rest of the group.  Use a router and trim off the tap bit of the control panel.  Fill in with wood filler.  I have heard of some people using Bondo as it won't crumble as easily if you make a big mistake, but I would think that as long as you don't use very much filler, and as long as the trackball and mounting plate are secure, you won't have a problem with wood filler.

[markrvp]

I guess I'm missing something here.  When you lay down the artwork, the hole in the trackball mounting plate makes a perfect guide to run an exacto knife around for a perfect circle in the artwork.

[javeryh]

well duh if you want the obvious answer    I'm always amazed how simple things can be and why I never think of them.  I could easily turn the CD upside down after applying the artwork and use the hole in the mounting plate to do exactly what you described!  Thanks!

[markrvp]

well duh if you want the obvious answer

[shmokes]

Here are some pictures of how I did mine.  The first one is just the board with the spot for the trackball plate drawn on.  In the second one you'll see that I haven't done any routing, but just drilled the holes so the mounting plate sits in there really sturdy.  It could be mounted just as it is, but it wouldn't be flush.

[shmokes]

And here are two more that show how I routed a recess for the plate to sit flush as well as a near-finished control panel with laminate covering everything.  As you can see, I just free-handed with the router since the sloppiness would be covered with the laminate.  Setting the depth is simple.  Just turn the mounting plate upside down, and put the edge of the router base on the mounting plate and lower the bit to the table.  All this works especially well with a plunge router, but is easy with a fixed base too.

[javeryh]

Awesome - this is exactly how I will do it with my fixed base router (the depth is easy enough to set) and my 1/2" dado cutting bit.