T MOLDING GUIDE???

[mrcram]

I've looked all over here and on the net.  I am ordering some T MOLDING for my arcade, but I would like to know how to install!!!
Is there a GUIDE on the internet anywhere that would help me step by step? please help. thank you

[Bones]

Instructions.

Step 1) Machine grove with T-slot cutter.
Step 2) Push t-molding into grove.
Step 3) Have cool beer, you are now finished.

Seriously, it is no harder than this.

[TalkingOctopus]

Two common problems:

1) It is really hard to push it into the 1/16" slot. 

Use a rubber mallet and hammer it in.

2) It won't bend around this corner and fit into the slot.

Remove the portion that fits into the slot for the corner.

[tommy]

Two common problems:

1) It is really hard to push it into the 1/16" slot. 

Use a rubber mallet and hammer it in.

2) It won't bend around this corner and fit into the slot.

Remove the portion that fits into the slot for the corner.

You could even use some fine nails in the corners or glue.

[xonix_digital]

liquid nailz

-=XD=-

[Taborious]

If you do it right you should not need nails or glue.

Depending on the size of the t-molding that you bought it will have a spec for the required slot size you need to cut into the wood. for 3/4mdf as I used and 13/16 t-molding I used it was 1/16 slot cutter. I bought the t-molding 1/16 wider than the mdf to cover the formica I used on the mdf. You need to cut your slot in the center, not neccesarily the center of the wood you need to take into consideration anything you add to the wood i.e. formica, so you slot would be slightly off center if you're just looking at the wood.

Use a rubber mallet to install NOT a hammer as you will damage the t-molding. start in the back or somewhere that won't get a lot of looks. Follow around slowly with the mallet; once you get it started it will be very easy. Once you get to a corner, if its an outer corner but a "V" groove out of the t-molding backside this will allow the t-molding to bend around the corner. If its an inner corner you just need to cut slits in the back of the t-molding to allow it to bend backwards. That is really all there is to it.

IMPORTANT!!!!!!!!!!! Since this will be your first attempt test cutting you router groove on a scrap piece of wood and then take about a foot or so of test t-molding and install on that test piece. this will take you about 15minutes but will let you know if there are any major issues with you cuts or installation process.......Good luck

[spystyle]

.

[monkeybomb]

And for god sakes, buy enough before you start.  I JUST ran out and now I have a cabinet with half t-molding and half nothing.  

I could have sworn I bought 100 feet, but it must have been 50.

[big daddy]

Instructions.

Step 1) Machine grove with T-slot cutter.
Step 2) Push t-molding into grove.
Step 3) Have cool beer, you are now finished.

Seriously, it is no harder than this.

I read a lot of quotes like this when I was building mine, but for me, the t-molding installation was BY FAR the most difficult piece and now that my cab is relatively finished it's the one piece that looks the worst on my cab.

My first problem was assembling the cab before cutting the tmolding slot (the BYOAC book said either was acceptable, but I found the hard way that the 2nd alternative just created WAY to many problems).  Trying to push the router, it wouldn't stay flat and the grove wouldn't cut straight, etc. 

My 2nd issue was ordering a slot cutter bit.  Different people suggested different size bit for different tmolding.  I bought the wrong one, then installed it upside down and dulled the cutter...then by the time I figured it out I was in a hurry to get it done and couldn't wait for the right size bit so attempted to do a "cut twice" scenario...anyway, REALLY screwed up my cuts!  And on top of that, since the blade was dull black smoke would billow out like it was on fire!  Made my cutting miserable.  Then the slots were the right depth in some places and not in others, and too wide in some ares and not wide enough in others....Then people said I could just glue or nail it in and the glueing didn't work no matter what glue I tried..and the nailing works, but you can really tell where the nails are just looking at it. 

All in all, the whole thing was the most disatrous part for me.  I will say that once I got the right bit in and tried it on some wood that was laying flat, it worked like a charm!  If only I'd have done that from the start 

[Bones]

I must also confess to having troubles with machining my t-slot but it was due to bad preparation on my behalf. After the cabinet was 80% assembled I had to cut out an entire section and re grove it so I got the chance to experience doing the t-molding before and after being assembled.

I have to say I didn't feel like there was much difference either way.

However, if anything.... Being assembled stiffened the wood and stopped the wobbling that caused my first failure.

[DrewKaree]

However, if anything.... Being assembled stiffened the wood and stopped the wobbling that caused my first failure.

I find stiffening the wood prior to assembly works better, otherwise it's like taking a wet noodle and.....

[mccoy178]

I cut the slot for the t molding when I drill the holes for the top of my cp.  At that point in the project, everything is still broken down.  I just clamp my pieces to my work bench and run the router around it.  Considering I feel handy at constructing these, I will admit that I had my bit on backwards also the first time I did this.  Talk about feeling like a stinking idiot.(Quite literally!)

[Stingray]

And for god sakes, buy enough before you start.  I JUST ran out and now I have a cabinet with half t-molding and half nothing.  

I could have sworn I bought 100 feet, but it must have been 50.

Wow, how big is your cab? I think I bought 20 feet and had 5 or 6 feet left over when I was finished.

-S

[javeryh]

I cut the slot for the t molding when I drill the holes for the top of my cp.

[Breaker]

Hi all,

I have to chime in on this one because I'm very close to getting started on my CAB and, in preparation, I've been practicing t-molding installation using a router, slot-cutting bit and some short pieces of t-molding.

What I found to be the most difficult part was centering the groove in the edge of the wood. I have a fairly decent B&W plunge router but it's not a professional unit so the degree of accuracy I have over the bit depth isn't great. I found that getting it close was no problem but adjusting to get it perfectly centered was virtually impossible. I would always end up being a little too high or a little to low - very frustrating.  If anyone has a trick for centering the slot-cutting bit I'd be glad to hear it.

Cheers,
Breaker.

[tivogre]

 One "tip" that I learned is to set your bit depth using a scrap of the same wood your cabinet sides are made of.

Cut a slot down one side of the scrap.

Here's the "tip":

Now, flip the scrap over and check the bit depth against the slot you cut.  If you're dead center, the bit will hit EXACTLY in the center of the slot you just cut.

An expansion on the "tip":

I found that t-molding "wants" a 3/32" slot cutter.  most people use a slightly smaller 1/16" slot cutter, because it's more readily available.  If you're using a 1/16th, center it as best you can using the method above.  Then route the slot in your cabinet sides.  Flip the side over, and RE-ROUTE the slot without moving the bit.  You'll end up with a PERFECTLY centered slot almost exactly the right size.

Hope this helps someone.

[Breaker]

Hey tivogre!

Now that's a 'Norm Abram' worthy tip which will guarantee a perfectly centered slot.

Thanks,
Breaker.