Connect everything with 1x1's?

[1UP]

I've been seeing that a lot of recent cabinets are built with frames of 1x1's or 1x2's.  This would seem to make construction easier, as you just put your 1x1's around the edges of the side panels, connect the top and bottom panels, then connect the other side panel.  If the 1x1's are screwed into the backs of all the outer panels, is this enough to hold it all together for years and years, without drilling into the ends of the panels themselves?  Is there any additional gluing that I should do?  How far apart do I need to screw the 1x1's?  I'd like to hear from our resident carpenters out there.  Matt, you probably know the answer to this!

Thanks.

[jelloslug]

Glue, glue, glue!  Glue every corner, especially if you are not using a rabbit joint (a groove the width of one board that you slide one edge of one board into).  Bisket joints are even better, but thaat take special tools.  Use a high quality, waterproof wood glue also.

[1UP]

Got me some waterproof polyurethane glue!  That should help things.  Since I was going to put in a 2x4 to support the "dolly" handles on the back and the wheels underneath, I decided to add one more 2x4 on the inside top (behind the marquee light) so the whole thing will be effectively held together by a 4 cornered 2x4 frame for extra strength!  (Can you tell that I don't want to build this more than once?)

Sure it'll be a little heavier, but it'll be strong as hell!!

[SirPoonga]

You;ve seen my cabinet, hehe.

Yeah, I glued also.  I used 2x4 under the monitor and on the bas, otherwise sides and rest use 1x1 pine boards.

[1UP]

You;ve seen my cabinet, hehe.

Yeah, I glued also.

[SirPoonga]

I accidently deleted it off my site.  I'm going to get it back.  Right now this icon for my FE was the best thing I had.

[1UP]

Good to see you back!  Well, I'm getting closer.  Didn't do any cutting but today I finally marked all my boards with the dimensions!  If I don't find any more design problems, I should have at least the empty shell of a cabinet by this time next weekend... (crosses fingers)  :-/

[neuromancer]

I've been seeing that a lot of recent cabinets are built with frames of 1x1's or 1x2's.  

is this enough to hold it all together for years and years, without drilling into the ends of the panels themselves?  Is there any additional gluing that I should do?  

Two years ago I built my 75 pound lab mix a doghouse with 1/4 *interior* plywood on a 2x2 frame. I put it together with liquid nails and a staple gun. An oversized roof keeps it mostly out of the rain. Other than the parts he's chewed on it has held up
great.

A good trick for screwing into the edges of plywood is to drill a hole through the plywood, and push a dowel through it, flush with the surface. Put the screw into the dowel.

Bob
South Carolina

[hedge]

Got me some waterproof polyurethane glue!

[OSCAR]

Quick Question:

When screwing the 1x1 strips to the cabinet, should I screw through the 1x1 strips from the inside into the sides, or from the outside the cabinet into the 1x1 strips?  i.e., do I need to countersink and fill any holes on the outside of the cabinet?  

Also, do I need to pre-drill holes before screwing?

I'm using 5/8" mdf if that makes a difference.

Thanks!

On my cabinet (3/4" MDF) I used 1.25" x 1.25" strips and screwed from the inside so I didn't have the holes on the outside of the cabinet to contend with later.  Pre-drilling and countersinking the blocks is a good idea to help keep them from splitting.  You can see the blocks in the first few pics here:  www.oscarcontrols.com/unnamed

I would also recommend glueing the joints as well.

[Sasquatch!]

Quick Question:

When screwing the 1x1 strips to the cabinet, should I screw through the 1x1 strips from the inside into the sides, or from the outside the cabinet into the 1x1 strips?  i.e., do I need to countersink and fill any holes on the outside of the cabinet?  

Also, do I need to pre-drill holes before screwing?

I'm using 5/8" mdf if that makes a difference.

Thanks!

On my cabinet (3/4" MDF) I used 1.25" x 1.25" strips and screwed from the inside so I didn't have the holes on the outside of the cabinet to contend with later.  Pre-drilling and countersinking the blocks is a good idea to help keep them from splitting.  You can see the blocks in the first few pics here:  www.oscarcontrols.com/unnamed

I would also recommend glueing the joints as well.

Good question and good answer!  Thanks, both!

[CthulhuLuke]

Wow oscar, very nice lookin cabinet.  I didn't realize you were so into the batman series.  That cabinet strangly looks really unstable to me, I think its the really skinny base you got on there.  I'm sure its fine though, looks like the monitor is just in the right spot to not distribute the weight too unevenly.  
  You should see if you can get some of the Vampire Batman comic book art, that stuff was freakin scary.  I have the comic book somewhere, I might be able to scasn a few pictures for you.  batman biting the head off a bat is the coolest thing ever.  Vampire Joker rules too.
      -CthulhuLuke

[OSCAR]

Wow oscar, very nice lookin cabinet.  I didn't realize you were so into the batman series.  That cabinet strangly looks really unstable to me, I think its the really skinny base you got on there.  I'm sure its fine though, looks like the monitor is just in the right spot to not distribute the weight too unevenly.

Yes, the looks of the cabinet in the pictures is deceiving, I'll give you that.  However, the cab is much more stable & heavy than you would think.  It's quite a bit further along now than my last photo on that site and I have the controls installed for a test fit before I finish off the cp art.  I've been giving Robotron a real workout over the past couple of weeks on it because I tend to rock a cab sometimes on the higher levels, but this one doesn't budge at all.

 
  You should see if you can get some of the Vampire Batman comic book art, that stuff was freakin scary.  I have the comic book somewhere, I might be able to scasn a few pictures for you.  batman biting the head off a bat is the coolest thing ever.  Vampire Joker rules too.
      -CthulhuLuke

Heh, I'm not really looking for the scariest cabinet theme, but I do really like the artwork from Miller's Dark Knight Returns, best graphic novel ever.    That's where most of the artwork came from that I'm using now.

[pocketz]

im interested in hearing about what kind of new cabinet 1up is designing. if you could please let us know what the general idea and layout of your new cab is. im sure it will be extremely hightech and well built. will it have rotating controls? what kind of games is it designed around?

thanks
-pocketz

[Jakobud]

I used 2x4's for the internal frame (w/ MDF on the outside). 1x1's are going to be very prone to splitting unless you pre-drill for every single screw.  And it will still split on you sometimes after that.  Even 2x2's will have that problem.  Also, do yourself a favor and get woodglue for every single joint!  It increases strength of joints like 10x or something.

[AceTKK]

im interested in hearing about what kind of new cabinet 1up is designing. if you could please let us know what the general idea and layout of your new cab is. im sure it will be extremely hightech and well built. will it have rotating controls? what kind of games is it designed around?

thanks
-pocketz

this is a VERY old thread.  I'm sure he's referring to Pac-Mamea

-Ace-

[Howard_Casto]

Good to see you back!

[Distortion]

I have made mine so that it is deconstructible using 2x2's.  I used machine bolts with finishing washers to distribute the pressure on the MDF and also give the cab a cool industrial kind of look.  It's solid as a rock, I have no doubts that this bad boy will last a while.

[hedge]

I used 2x4's for the internal frame (w/ MDF on the outside). 1x1's are going to be very prone to splitting unless you pre-drill for every single screw.  And it will still split on you sometimes after that.  Even 2x2's will have that problem.  Also, do yourself a favor and get woodglue for every single joint!  It increases strength of joints like 10x or something.

I'm definitely going to pre-drill.  But do I also need to pre-drill the MDF - or just the 2x2's?

And when you suggest using woodglue for the joints - I assume you mean using glue everywhere the 2x2's meet the MDF - but am I also supposed to use glue in the areas where the MDF meets the MDF?

[MameFan]

I just built some bookcases with oak covered 3/4" MDF ($35 a sheet!!!)

THIS STUFF SPLITS like you won't believe!

*** PRE-DRILL EVERY HOLE -- ESPECIALLY if you are are going into an edge and not the flat surface.  ***  Also.. keep away from the last 3" before a corner if drilling into an edge.


In creating the bookcase, I used wood dowels and drilled holes for them on all the visible surfaces, but figured I'd save a LOT of time by simply screwing the base into the 4 uprights (it was a 8' wide bookcase with 3 shelf areas), since the base is against the floor.

I was at least smart and pre-drilled all the hole on the base (that I was drilling through the flat surface) and even got a countersink bit to make the screwhead flush. I used 1 5/8" Sheetrock black phosphate screws.

However, I forgot to predrill into the uprights, and after screwing in about half the screws, I paused and could literally hear, for about 5 minutes, the MDF splitting up the edge I screwed into!      

One is really bad and split up about 3" from the edge (only 1" of screw was in it). It's easily 1/16 to 1/8" inch split against the edge.  The others  are about 1/32nd of an inch wide for about 2" up.

To fix it, I did 2 things... First, on the side that split the worst, it was to be up against a wall, so I was able to drill in the side and then put a short 1/2" screw in and help "pull" it back together.   Plus that and all the others, I squeezed as much wood glue in as I could to keep it from splitting more.


Last nite I started nailing on the 1/4" oak backing sheets.    Even a super thin nail from a nail gun, (1" nail length) caused the dang MDF to split when nailed dead center in the edge.  However it was just a hairline crack running 1/2" either side of the power-driven nail.  (The nail wasn't much bigger than a large needle..we're talking small)

So I learned my lesson.  The next time I build bookcases, I will either:
- Peg the entire thing or at least pre-drill into the uprights. (and just deal with the nailing doing small splitting)

- Get oak laminated PLYWOOD to build the frame with, and then just use MDF as the moveable shelves (since it doesn't bend as much as plywood when cut with a small depth like a shelf)  



Therefore, since I havn't started building my cabinet(s), I have leared a lot from the bookcases.   MDF is a great product, but you HAVE to treat it correctly, otherwise it can be much worse than even particle board (heck, it's the same thing, just finer particles)

[Craig Pilecky]

Wow 1/1's!  I used 2/4's and even a few chunks of 2/6's for my frame. But thats for a heavy 27" tv.

A cabinet is only going to be as sturdy as the frame. So I think a slightly heavier construction is better if you want something that will hold up for along time, or plan to move very often.

If I where building a 20" monitor cabinet I would probably still use 2/4"s. But I have a tendency to go a little overboard.

3/4" MDF is great, but yeah you definately have to pre-drill it. I pre-drilled everything and I had no problems at all.

[hedge]

What kind of glue did you use for the joints?  Standard wood glue - or some other sort of adhesive?

I've got the panels cut and the slots routed - ready to put it all together!  I'm still a littled concerned about drilling from the inside, through the 2x2's, and into the panels.  I've heard that MDF does not hold screws very well ... ?

 (On the other hand, I'm not looking forward to filling and sanding 100 holes on the outside of the cabinet)