Main Restorations Software Audio/Jukebox/MP3 Everything Else Buy/Sell/Trade
Project Announcements Monitor/Video GroovyMAME Merit/JVL Touchscreen Meet Up Retail Vendors
Driving & Racing Woodworking Software Support Forums Consoles Project Arcade Reviews
Automated Projects Artwork Frontend Support Forums Pinball Forum Discussion Old Boards
Raspberry Pi & Dev Board controls.dat Linux Miscellaneous Arcade Wiki Discussion Old Archives
Lightguns Arcade1Up Try the site in https mode Site News

Unread posts | New Replies | Recent posts | Rules | Chatroom | Wiki | File Repository | RSS | Submit news

Poll

What material did you use?

Oak
2 (6.7%)
Birch
6 (20%)
MDF
18 (60%)
Other
4 (13.3%)

Total Members Voted: 30

  

Author Topic: Cabinet construction real wood vs. MDF  (Read 3476 times)

0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.

Havok

  • Keeper of the __Blue_Stars___
  • Trade Count: (+17)
  • Full Member
  • ***
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 4530
  • Last login:August 18, 2025, 12:44:57 am
  • Insufficient facts always invite danger.
Cabinet construction real wood vs. MDF
« on: June 24, 2005, 12:01:46 pm »
I'm starting to build a cab, and I am leaning towards the real stuff. I have some MDF cabinets\furniture that doesn't make it sometimes when moved.

Just wondering what is out there. I'm sure MDF is the prevalent choice, but just interested in what the rest of the community is doing...

*edit* - I am definitely referring to veneered plywood...
« Last Edit: June 24, 2005, 12:11:14 pm by Havok »

CJK

  • Trade Count: (0)
  • Full Member
  • ***
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 263
  • Last login:February 03, 2024, 03:30:12 am
  • All your ROM are belong to us!
Re: Cabinet contruction real wood vs. MDF
« Reply #1 on: June 24, 2005, 12:06:18 pm »
I assume you are talking about oak- or birch-veneered plywood, rather than "the real stuff" (solid hardwood).

My cabinet (currently under construction) is MDF for the main panels, 3/4" birch plywood for the base, and hardwood (red oak) for selected parts (mainly the monitor frame/support).

-- Chris
Underway: Joey's Arcade

AlanS17

  • Trade Count: (0)
  • Full Member
  • ***
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 5382
  • Last login:December 02, 2019, 08:35:48 am
  • I won't even pretend to be clever...
    • AlanS17
Re: Cabinet contruction real wood vs. MDF
« Reply #2 on: June 24, 2005, 12:08:50 pm »
MDF if heavier and more prone to water damage. However, it's easier to cut, cheaper, and requires less prep work for finishing. It comes down to personal preference.

There's no reason NOT to go with MDF for the control panel, but you'll have a lighter, sturdier machine if you use plywood for the sides.


siropa

  • Trade Count: (0)
  • Full Member
  • ***
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 44
  • Last login:November 12, 2020, 12:08:56 pm
  • I want to build my own arcade controls!
Re: Cabinet construction real wood vs. MDF
« Reply #3 on: June 24, 2005, 01:06:46 pm »
I went with birch plywood for cab #2 main because I hate the dust from MDF. My woodshop is in my basement and the idea of routing on MDF isn't too appealing. Given all the other costs I had buying all the parts, a few bucks on the sheet goods was minor.

Avery

  • Trade Count: (0)
  • Full Member
  • ***
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 212
  • Last login:May 03, 2013, 12:52:02 am
  • Have fun! Make stuff.
Re: Cabinet construction real wood vs. MDF
« Reply #4 on: June 24, 2005, 01:45:52 pm »
I guess the $20,000 question is what are you trying to accomplish?

If you want to make a standard arcade looking cabinet and you're going to paint it and put artwork on the sides and just don't want it to go into solution if it's feet get wet, then I'd recomend A/C grade pine plywood.

If, on the other hand, you want it to look like real live honest to God furniture, well, pretty much any of the woods you listed would do the trick.

I'm going to put some cards on the table here and reveal my weird little plans....

I am currently restoring an arts and crafts house that has suffered many years of neglect.  When I'm done the machine that I'm currently building in the hull of an old gutted Berzerk cab will stick out like a sore thumb.  What I want to build next (there's a phrase to make the wife shudder) is something that looks like a colaberation between Nolan Bushnell and the Greene brothers.  That one will probably made of quarter sawn white oak and ebony with very little plywood involved.

(For those of you wondering, there's a good Greene and Greene inspired desk here: http://www.furnituremaker.com/)
Avery

Havok

  • Keeper of the __Blue_Stars___
  • Trade Count: (+17)
  • Full Member
  • ***
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 4530
  • Last login:August 18, 2025, 12:44:57 am
  • Insufficient facts always invite danger.
Re: Cabinet construction real wood vs. MDF
« Reply #5 on: June 24, 2005, 03:50:38 pm »
I guess the $20,000 question is what are you trying to accomplish?

If you want to make a standard arcade looking cabinet and you're going to paint it and put artwork on the sides and just don't want it to go into solution if it's feet get wet, then I'd recomend A/C grade pine plywood.

That's the thing: I have a small office\computer room where this thing just won't fit. So, since I don't have a basement (sigh...) It's going in the garage. So, moisture is definitely an issue. I get the feeling that plywood will also be stronger: I've ripped screws out of MDF panels when moving before. It seems to me that MDF is basically cardboard on steroids.

CJK

  • Trade Count: (0)
  • Full Member
  • ***
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 263
  • Last login:February 03, 2024, 03:30:12 am
  • All your ROM are belong to us!
Re: Cabinet construction real wood vs. MDF
« Reply #6 on: June 24, 2005, 09:46:19 pm »
That's because most people don't use the right kind of screws with MDF. MDF doesn't hold the typical fasteners you find in Home Depot particularly well, so a fastener designed for MDF is advisable. Here's an example:

http://www.mcfeelys.com/multiple.asp?productID=7050-CSP

If you can do without mechanical fasteners, so much the better. Dowels or biscuits and glue will make a joint which is stronger than plain screws anyway.

That said, there is a lot to be said for plywood over MDF as a cabinet material. If you don't have much woodworking experience or haven't worked with MDF much, you'll find plywood much friendlier (and not just because of the dust, though as mentioned above, that is a big issue with MDF!). However, I'd use MDF on the control panel because it machines much more easily than plywood, especially for things like routing out recesses on the CP.

-- Chris
Underway: Joey's Arcade

pmc

  • Trade Count: (0)
  • Full Member
  • ***
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 1034
  • Last login:December 20, 2023, 07:43:02 am
    • website
Re: Cabinet construction real wood vs. MDF
« Reply #7 on: June 25, 2005, 10:09:45 am »
I am currently restoring an arts and crafts house that has suffered many years of neglect.  When I'm done the machine that I'm currently building in the hull of an old gutted Berzerk cab will stick out like a sore thumb.  What I want to build next (there's a phrase to make the wife shudder) is something that looks like a colaberation between Nolan Bushnell and the Greene brothers.  That one will probably made of quarter sawn white oak and ebony with very little plywood involved.

(For those of you wondering, there's a good Greene and Greene inspired desk here: http://www.furnituremaker.com/)

I'm getting visions of a Frank Lloyd Wright-ish cabinet.  ;)
What games would look right being played on it? Maybe Shanghai. Or Tetris.

Be cool with mother of pearl inlayed and a stained-glass marquee.

- pmc

Avery

  • Trade Count: (0)
  • Full Member
  • ***
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 212
  • Last login:May 03, 2013, 12:52:02 am
  • Have fun! Make stuff.
Re: Cabinet construction real wood vs. MDF
« Reply #8 on: June 28, 2005, 09:36:44 am »
What games would look right being played on it? Maybe Shanghai. Or Tetris.

I don't know that any games are REALLY going to look right on it, but that paradox is part of the fun as far as I' concerened.

I'd thought about the stained glass marquee, but not the inlay.  Thanks for the idea.
Avery