Time to go read the monitor FAQ in the Monitor forum here first, then search for "Alva" and "Wei-Ya" and "8liners" in the Monitor Forum as well.. That should give you tons of information to grok
In essence....
Dont go with "8liners.com" as they use a lower quality replacement chassis than Alva Amusements uses. It will cost you half as much to buy a 25" replacement chassis through Alva than it will through 8liners, and you will get a better quality one.
The 8liners don't require an isolated power source via an isolation transformer, the Alva ones do. If you have an existing old arcade monitor in your cab, chances are you already have the isolation transfomer so you wont have to buy one. (New ones are only $10 anyway). I wont go into details of why one is needed... read the monitor forum if you want more info.
The key to compatibility of a chassis to a tube involves many things:
1) Size of tube. The larger the tube, the more power it needs. So you can't use a G07 19" chassis on a 25" tube
2) Size of neck of tube/Number of pins on the neck. Different tubes have different pin layouts and you must get the chassis with mated neckboard that matches up. You can ruin the chassis and tube if you dont match up
3) The electrical resistance of the yoke. The larger the tube, the lower the resistance, and the chassis must be compatible with it. (Again why a 19" chassis wont work on a 25" tube)
4) Some replacement chassis are compatible with existing yokes that worked on old chassis, while others will require you to actually swap yokes. Don't let 8liners fool you... you CANNOT guarentee, by DC electrical resistance tests alone, that you can use a particular yoke. It's AC electical resistance, or impedence, similar to a speaker that determines if a yoke will cause geometric distortions, and you cannot know until you try. Like how one 8ohm speaker can sound way different than a different 8 ohm one, different yokes, at the same DC resistance will exhibit different types of video distortion unless they're properly mated with the chassis.
That said, if you're certain your chassis is dead and you dont want to fix it (cap kit and/or flyback and other components), AND you're certain your tube and yoke is still good, then your first bet it to try it on another identical chassis. That's the easiset. No yoke swapping, and no yoke differences.
However if you want to replace with a replacement chassis you need to know the variables and understand that unless you ALSO replace the yoke to match the NEW chassis (yoke+chassis go together, not yoke+tube like most people think) you *MAY* have geometric problems. Some can be adjusted (e.g. pincushion on the Wei-Ya 26" chassis, while others such as bent corners may not be.
Again, read the threads in the Monitor forum before attempting to do a chassis replacement. While it may be quick and easy and you'll be lucky and it will work with a perfect picture immediately, be prepared for doing yoke swaps and reconverging the video just in case it doesn't.
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Topic: WTB Used Monitor Chassis (Read 1528 times)
