49 way rotary adapter, restricted movement from setscrew????

[dabone]

I'm finally installing my 49 ways and rotary adapter,and the set screw seems to limit the movement of the stick. the plastic sliders run into the screw.

And I installing this thing wrong???

Later,
dabone

[KenToad]

No, you're not installing it wrong, Dabone.  I posted about this earlier somewhere.  The rotary adaptor is a hack and it shows most prominently in what you describe.  I've been playtesting my 49 way joysticks with rotary adaptors here for a couple of days and I haven't noticed any weird behavior from the joystick hitting the screw, which could easily be taken out of context.  Floyd mentioned that he's open to suggestions, if you might have a better idea of how to mount the thing.  My biggest gripe so far with this great little device is that Ikari Warriors is still imperfect in Mame.  I mean--can't they just have one button press equal to one turn of the guy.  I really can't get the analog settings to be perfect.  I tried Analog Mame for a little bit, but it didn't really seem better in my limited testing.  I will test a little more when I'm a less busy and report the functionality to Tiger-Heli, who requested that I (or anyone) do some tests with and without Druin's board. 

Another thing you'll notice about the rotary adaptors is that they are stiffer to turn as you push the joystick further away from center.  I just played through Midnight Resistance and I did notice a couple of spots in the game, like where you get lifted through the trees on several platforms, where the action gets pretty frantic and harder to rotate and move.  Maybe when the grommet gets broken in on these joys it will get more smooth even during these times.  I used 100% sensitivity on Midnight Resistance, BTW.  Hope that helps.  Have fun spinning your rotaries.

Cheers,
KenToad

[markrvp]

One of us is going to have to suck it up and take a dremel to the sliders where they hit the screws.

Let's draw straws. . . .















. . . I just drew and got the long straw, so it's between you two

[dabone]

I got the short straw, I'll hook it up later and see if the stick still works correctly.

I've cut a large semi-circle out of each plastic piece, and cut off the end of the top channel.


(Building a new panel off the cab)


Later,
dabone

[fl0yd]

I've cut a large semi-circle out of each plastic piece, and cut off the end of the top channel.

Was it actually affecting whether the move registered or not, or you just didn't like the feel of it? 

I plan to trim my sliders as well to make sure there isn't an impact, but in all of my playtesting it always registered the move.  I do admit that there is a different feel in that corner though.

Please let me know how it works, and if you have any suggestions on how to make it better.

[dabone]

Didn't like the feel.


Later,
dabone

[armax]

I simply used one of the smaller holes in my CP to restrict movement of the 49-way.  There was no directional bias and the joystick registered just fine.  It keeps the throw short and sweet.

[fl0yd]

Could you show us a picture of what you mean?

[markrvp]

Could you show us a picture of what you mean?

I think he means he cut a 1-1/8" hole in the MDF for the joystick.  The edges of the hole act as a mechanical restrictor.  On the original 49-way mounting template I made, there are three different hole diameters depending on how thick your control panel is.

Armax, please correct me if I'm wrong.

[Timoe]

So we're not cutting floyds parts right?

[markrvp]

So we're not cutting floyds parts right?

Right. 

There are two things being discussed right now.

     1.)  Cutting a small hole in the CP for the joystick so that the sliders physically can not move all the way into the corner.

     2.)  Cutting out a small portion of the joystick sliders where they are hitting fl0yd's stabilizing screw.

Fl0yd's adapter has not been modified at this point.

[Timoe]

How does it feel with hardware restriction?  I mean throwing the stick into the wood?  Does it chip off or anyhting, feel liket it will wear?

Soorry to be so n00b, but it will be a long time before I have a test sample built of my own (even though I own all the parts already-thanks floyd)

So, some might consider cutting those plastic, moving plates on the 49way?  I'd like to see a photo of that if anyone tries it.

Ooh and another question, where exactly did you get your +5v again for druins board off of the GPwiz?  Anychance of a pic of that?

Thanks again for all your help

[markrvp]

Here you go:

[armax]

Markvp, you are correct *give the man a ceeegar*.  As Rick Hunter would say, "It works for me.."

[fl0yd]

What sized hole did you use?  1 1/8 inches?

[armax]

yep, so it basically has the same throw as your standard joystick.

[KenToad]

I simply used one of the smaller holes in my CP to restrict movement of the 49-way.  There was no directional bias and the joystick registered just fine.  It keeps the throw short and sweet.

Armax,

I didn't really like the feel of the joystick hitting the MDF.  I think its worse than the feeling of hitting the set screw.  Somehow, clunk, clunk, just doesn't seem to be what a joystick should do, IMO.  Or do you have a metal CP?  I will test more the way it is before making the decision of whether to go ahead and cut.

Try out Spy Hunter with the raw49 mode, BTW.  I got to icy roads and the boat stage.  I can finally hit those pesky Buicks with the tire shredders off the road again.  After you play for five minutes or so and get two weapons, the music gets really cool--although I'm getting some slowdown with my 2.4 GHz laptop and haven't figured that out yet.  Still, playing this game again with decent controls justifies the expense of these joysticks for me.

Cheers,
KenToad