BLACK MONITOR GOES TICK TICK TICK ...

[IntruderAlert]

I bought a used candy cab but I don't know anything about them
I've got a couple of panels off  and looking in from the back I can see a rod on one side like what's used to hold up the hood of a car
I suppose I should be able to open the front and easily rotate the monitor but I've never had one of these and I don't know how

Here's a shot from my manual:


There's a lock under the CP that I haven't been able to remove yet
Will I have to remove it in order to access the monitor?

According to the manufacturer's web site it looks like the monitor is 15 ~ 31.5KHZ
the tube is Samsung A51KQJ63X
should I be able to connect directly to a regular VGA card with no mods?

right now it's connected to a JAMMA connector but someone did a lousy soldering job on it and it's going to have to be redone anyway

[dabone]

Which candy cab is it?


Later,
dabone

[IntruderAlert]

Here's the manual:
http://www.andamiro.com/pdf/joyro21-e.pdf

[dabone]

Don't know if that candy cab can do vertical.

It's monitor mounting is different that the other ones I've seen.

(and the manual doesn't cover any other mounting than horizontal.)



Later,
dabone

[IntruderAlert]

it can
I saw it on the web site
I guess nothing magical is going to happen until I can get that lock off under the CP so I'll let you know how it goes.

I also need to know if it's ok to connect to an unmodded VGA card though
the Korean web site says 15 ~ 31.5KHZ

[IntruderAlert]

Yahooo!!!





...now before I ruin this nice little monitor would someone please just reassure me whether it will work with an unmodded VGA card or not?.. PLEASE!

[IntruderAlert]

I've removed the monitor cable from the JAMMA connector
I want to solder on a VGA connector to the end of it

The cable has 7 WIRES:
RED
GREEN
BLUE
GROUND
WHITE
ORANGE
BLACK

ON the monitor side, THE GREY ORANGE AND BLACK WIRES ARE ALL IN THE SAME CONNECTOR WHICH IS PLUGGED IN AT THE FRONT OF THE MONITOR BOARD
I can't see it very well and was barely  able to get my camera in there for this pic:


Whoever did the sloppy soldering job on the JAMMA connector had the white wire on SYNC
So I'm guessing I should put white on VGA pin 13 for Horizontal SYNC
but I'm just guessing
and I have no idea what orange and black are

come on guys, won't someone help me out here please?

[IntruderAlert]

Based on the way these wires were connected to the JAMMA connector...

RED = red video signal
GREEN = green video signal
BLUE = blue video signal
GROUND = video ground
WHITE = video sync (horizontal sync )
ORANGE = (connected to video board but not to JAMMA .. see picture above)
BLACK = (connected to video board but not to JAMMA .. see picture above)

Can someone please help me with WHITE, ORANGE and BLACK?
I'd like to do some work on this tonight.

[Witchboard]

Sorry dude.  Can't help ya, just thought I would give you a shout out to make you feel you weren't being ignored.   I know sometimes it helps just to be reassured that somebody is reading.  Hope ya get it figured out.

[IntruderAlert]

where the heck are all of the monitor experts this weekend?

[paigeoliver]

I unfortunately also have NO IDEA if that monitor can do VGA. My guess would be NO. Multi-Sync arcade monitors that do VGA are very, very, very rare. The one in mine does standard res and mid res.

[IntruderAlert]

do you have any idea about the orange, black and white wires?

[dabone]

The monitors I've seen in candy cabs usually take composite sync only.

Please post a pic of the whole chassis.

Or post the model number.

And does the monitor have a on screen display for adjustments??
Or just a standard remote board with pots?


The close up pic you posted to me look like the yoke connector.

Don't mess with a four wire connector with those colors.
Do they go from the board straight to the wire assy around the tube??




Standard colors are.

Red-Red
Green-Green
Blue-Blue
BLACK-GND
WHITE-Composite Negative Sync

Orange is not a standard color.

Alot of candy cabs have an external degauss switch, that connector might be for it.

Take a multimeter and pin out your jamma harness.

Pin out is located here.

http://www.coin.demon.co.uk/jamma.htm

Later,
dabone

[IntruderAlert]

According to where the wires were connected to the JAMMA:

RED = red video signal
GREEN = green video signal
BLUE = blue video signal
GROUND (bare wires) = video ground
WHITE = video sync

What I do not know is what the ORANGE and BLACK wires are for.
They were not connected to the JAMMA
They are on the same connector with the WHITE wire (video sync) that is plugged into the large monitor board that sits on the bottom of the monitor frame.
I have removed the connector to take this picture:



I'm guesing that the ORANGE and BLACK are either seperate H SYNC and V SYNC
or maybe some kind of monitor I.D. signals

[Dave_K.]

They are probably for the monitor degauss function.  Either the switch part or the power part (or both).   

Also, unless you see 31khz in the manual for this monitor, assume it is not compatible (otherwise you will permanantly damge the monitor).

[IntruderAlert]

There is already a manual degauss button on the remote control panel:



I don't read Korean but it says 15 ~ 31.5KHZ on the product page:

http://www.andamiro.com/kor/business/hard_01.html

[dabone]

That means the cab is available with it,  but the monitor in yours might be a standard resolution.


Later,
dabone

[IntruderAlert]

The tube is Samsung A51KQJ63X which doesn't really mean anything.

On the tube's neck it says:
SAMHO EL CO
SHO-F2101
VECK-GS

but google turned up nothing for me

I can't see any I.D. on the main board

[JoyMonkey]

I've got a Sanyo/Nintendo monitor that has an audio amplifier built into it's PCB with a two-pronged connector. Maybe the orange and white are for audio?

[IntruderAlert]

on your monitor are they on the same connector as the video sync?

[dabone]

Nintendo monitors were strange ones for having the audio amp for the game in the monitor. No other arcade monitor that I can remember had that.
(Thats why jamma adapters for nintendo games usually have a audio amp built in, also nintendo games used reverse polarity for the signal i.e. 5v was totally off, 0 volts was full bright.)



Take a pic of your whole monitor chassis.
The tube is NOT the important part for figuring out what kind of monitor you have,
So until you can figure out what the chassis is, the rest of this is moot.

It's most likely a weiya or a jen-shi, so just post a pic and most likely some one will be able to id it.


Later,
dabone

[IntruderAlert]

this cab wasn't made to be serviced by a guy my size
I got the board partially out and took a few pictures but I really don't want to completely remove it unless I absolutely have to.

CLICK FOR LARGER VERSIONS

[wakerlet]

IntruderAlert,

Ignore them for now and try to use the monitor without them.  As you describe it, they could be for monitor ID but also could very well be for a touch screen.  I had something similar to this on my D9300.

-Todd

[IntruderAlert]

touchscreen?.. WOW!! .. now you've REALLY got my hopes up

[IntruderAlert]

I think I have the mystery wires identified now thanks to Tomi Engdahl over at http://www.epanorama.net/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=1963

After a little testing the black wire tested out with very high connectivity to video ground
So most likely it's the ground for sync

And the orange wire tested out at about the same level of connectivity to the red, green, and blue video signals as the white wire did
So most likely white is composite sync/Hsync and orange is Vsync

I'm going to try it out now
I'll post a picture of the fire later on tonight

[IntruderAlert]

Well, after all of that I finally plug the monitor in and no matter if the video cable is actually connected or not I'm getting a pulse sound about every half second and nothing on the screen.

Could someone point me in the right direction on this please?

[IntruderAlert]

I'd really like to get this thing working
The screen is in such great condition
I can't see any burn in at all
Looks practically brand new
Maybe my arcadevga isn't sending out enough power?
I've read that some arcade monitors need 4v
but I think something else must be wrong because I don't think it should be making that pulsing sound every half second.

Lot's of info here:
http://repairfaq.ece.drexel.edu/REPAIR/F_monfaq.html

but how the heck am I supposed to tell a click-click-click- form a tweet-tweet-tweet and a tick-tick-tick and a flub-flub-flub?

These are all technical terms you know

[dabone]

Thats usually a power supply shutdown.



Start with a cap kit in the power supply section. I had the same problem with the monitor in my super neo 29.


Later,
dabone

[IntruderAlert]

How do I order a cap kit for an unknown monitor?

[Witchboard]

Pull the chassis, get the values off the caps and call Zanen Electronics.  I had to do this with a 14" TOEI monitor since nobody had a prepackaged one.

[IntruderAlert]

This has just been sitting in my basement collecting dust.
I have a day off of work tomorrow and thought I might try repairing this.
I found this in another old post which was in reference to a polo monitor i believe:

"Ticking".  This indicates the power supply is trying to power up but can't - either because of no load, excessive load (shorted H.O.T or flyback), or bad caps in the power supply section.

First, you need to determine if its a switching power supply problem or the other part of the monitor.  To do this, lift the right side of L103 off the board, and connect a 55 or 60W incandescent light bulb across it and ground (right heat sink).  Then plug it in.  It should light the bulb in a few seconds.  IF it doesn't, then it a power supply problem.

Is this sort of test a good idea?
Since mine is not a polo monitor could someone explain what I should be looking for to perform this test and if there is a better way of doing this?

[MonMotha]

Since I don't believe you've ID'd the monitor yet, it might be a Kortek.  Andamiro likes to use those, and I know I've seen that remote board somewhere, possibly on a Pump SX cabinet (which was an analog 27", I think made by Kortek).  Kortek is a Korean manufacturer (as is Andamiro), so that makes some sense.

Unfortunateky Kortek's website, um, sucks...  At least it gives you some place to look.

[IntruderAlert]

I checked the Kortek web site but couldn't find anything useful.

I just pulled out the monitor and removed the board to take some pictures.

Maybe someone will spot an identifying mark or a suspicious looking part.

11 pics:

[IntruderAlert]

Do these look blown to you?
I sent an email to randy fromm but I haven't heard back from him yet.

[IntruderAlert]

Also found this: http://www.repairfaq.org/REPAIR/F_monfaq5.html#MONFAQ_010

8.14) Startup problems - nothing happens, click, or tick-tick-tick sound

TVs and monitors usually incorporate some kind of startup circuit to provide
drive to the horizontal output transistor (HOT) until the flyback power supply
is running.  Yes, TVs and monitors boot just like computers.

There are two typical kinds of symptoms: power on click but nothing else
happens or a tick-tick-tick sound indicating cycling of the low voltage
(line regulator) but lack of startup horizontal drive.

Check the voltage on the horizontal output transistor (HOT).  If no voltage
is present, there may be a blown fuse or open fusable resistor - and
probably a shorted HOT.

However, if the voltage is normal (or high) - usually 60-150 V depending
on scan rate (for an auto-scan monitor), then there is likely a problem with
the startup circuit not providing initial base drive to the HOT.

The startup circuits may take several forms:

1. Discrete multivibrator or other simple transistor circuit to provide
   base drive to the HOT.

2. IC which is part of deflection chain powered off of a voltage divider
   or transformer.

3. Other type of circuit which operates off of the line which provides
   some kind of drive to the HOT.

The startup circuit may operate off of the standby power supply or
voltage derived from non-isolated input.  Be careful - of course, use
an isolation transformer whenever working on TVs and especially for power
supply problems.

Note that one common way of verifying that this is a startup problem is
to inject a 15 KHz signal directly into the HOT base or driver circuit
(just for a second or two).  If the TV then starts up and continues to run,
you know that it is a startup problem.

Caution: be careful if you do this.  The HOT circuit may be line-connected
and it is possible to destroy the HOT and related components if this is not
done properly.  I once managed to kill not only the HOT but the chopper
transistor as well while working in this area.  An expensive lesson.

I have also seen startup circuits that were designed to fail.  Turning
the TV on and off multiple times would exceed the power ratings of the
components in the startup circuit.  Some Zenith models have this 'feature'.

When this situation exists, it could be that the circuit is not providing
the proper drive or that due to some other circuit condition, the drive
is not always sufficient to get the secondary supplies going to the point
that the normal circuits take over.

I would still check for bad connections - prod the circuit board with an
insulated stick when the problem reoccurs.

[modessitt]

I feel like I've answered this post before....

I repaired a "ticking" monitor recently.  After checking all the transistors, diodes, and resistors, I ended up fixing the problem by replacing every electrolytic capacitor in the power supply circuit.

[IntruderAlert]

Randy Fromm answered my email.
He says:

It's not a bad capacitor. You likely have a shorted horizontal output transistor.

I don't know what type of monitor that is.

[IntruderAlert]

Found this: http://www.ecoustics.com/tl/14476/

The Horizontal Output Transistor & Flyback

First, locate the horizontal output transistor. This is found very close to, or next to, the horizontal output transformer (also known as the flyback). The flyback should be on an aluminum heat sink, or on the side of the metal chassis. Disconnect or unsolder two of the three legs of the transistor. Measure it with your meter, or plug in the set with the light bulb attached across the fuse.

If the transistor is shorted, or the light bulb doesn’t glow bright anymore, replace the transistor and plug back in. If the light bulb glows bright again, you must replace both the flyback and horizontal output transistor simultaneously. In some cases this will fix the set, but sometimes there are multiple problems with a set.

Go to where the flyback is, and start measuring the diodes and capacitors on the flyback itself. If you don't find any shorts there, it could be a shorted vertical output IC, a shorted sound IC, a shorted disc capacitor in the Hi Voltage/sweep circuit, or in rare cases, a shorted capacitor or tuner.

Where exactly do I connect the lightbulb?
Do I need a certain type of bulb? I don't want it to explode or anything.

[grantspain]

please don't attempt to do this my friend,you really do need a reasonable amount of experience on monitors to start attaching dummy loads across power circuits.
you're best bet is to just change the horizontal deflection transistor if you are gonna attempt anything with this monitor as its the most logical component to be at fault.
modessitt is also correct,sometimes a bad cap in the power supply circuit will cause this fault.
for example last week i had a nanao ms8 chassis in trip and i had to change the h.d.t,double diode,voltage regulator and 5 caps in the psu section BUT this was a very old monitor so yours is most likely just the h.d.t and not caps(but it is possible)

[IntruderAlert]

Yeah,
I sent another email to Randy Fromm about repairing the horizontal output transistor and he yelled at me.

Replace it!

So I guess that is the best thing to do..

I'm not going to bug Randy again but now I am trying to identify the horizontal output transistor.
I know what some of the older types look like but I don't see anything like that here.

I'm guessing it's maybe this Panasonic C5584 ?