Formica or another material?

[dema]

What's a good, sturdy material to coat the front of my arcade cabinet? I want to install a sturdy material from the bottom all the way up to the control panel, which will prevent scuffing and damage to the front of the machine during use. I was thinking of going with formica for this section, but since everything already assembled and the cabinet sides create a defined space within which I can lay it, I'd need to cut the formica to the exact measurements and lay it perfectly on the first try, which seems very daunting.

I was thinking that maybe I could try a different material that would protect it well and be easier to apply. Does anyone have any suggestions on how to adequately protect this section?

[Shape D.]

diamond plate.

[dema]

diamond plate.

Diamond plate wouldn't match up with the style of the cabinet. I'd probably give the formica a go before I went to something like that and if I did a crappy job I'd just cover it up with a sheet of metal.

[AlanS17]

If the purpose to have a surface that's easy to clean? Something that won't chip/dent easily? "Protection" is a very general word.

Some adhesive-backed vinyl can be very thick and heavy. I'm referring to the sort of stuff CPO's are made from. That would work pretty well.

I think paigeoliver has used rubber mats before to cover portions of machines, too. Of course, that depends on thec olor and look of your cabinet as most rubber mats will be black, and most will have some sort of texture to them.

I would think that a good paint job with just a plexi base-board would be sufficient.

[dema]

By protection I meant that it would hold up well to scuffs and dings.  I like the idea of adhesive-backed vinyl. That would be easier than formica.

[BUCKETHEAD]

I did this Saturday to my Hogan's alley cabinet.

I used Laminte from HOME DEPOT.

The $12.99 sheet should be enough to do your front.

I measured it,

[dema]

Buckethead I like the way that looks. What type of glue did you use to attach the laminate? I'm hoping it's not contact cement, because I'd like to have more than 1 shot at getting it right if possible.

[BUCKETHEAD]

Yes, I used Wilsonart contact cement.

In a big silver can.  For $16.99

Don't be afraid to do this.  It is not that hard.

This was my first time doing this, And i was thinking i could not acomplish it.

But you see the results.

It turned out pretty good for a first timer, At least i think?

If you want to just do the front? You won't need that big $50 sheet they sell.

You will just need the smaller $12.99 sheet they have.

They are in the same slot the big one's are in.

Also have an extra person with you, While doing this.

2 heads are better than one.

 

[NinjaEpisode]

I did this Saturday to my Hogan's alley cabinet.

I used Laminte from HOME DEPOT.

The $12.99 sheet should be enough to do your front.

I measured it,

[Tiger-Heli]

Dang, I need to be shopping at your Home Depot.  That same sheet cost me $42 bucks for a 4x8 ft sheet.

$12.99 for a 2x4 foot sheet - ends up more expensive if you need a whole sheet of it.  Our HD has it.

Dema, this vinyl covering that OSCAR used works well.

As another alternative, you might look at that Duraliner or Herculiner stuff that they use for brush-on truck bedliners could work too, if you can handle that look.  Any auto parts strore should carry it.

[dema]

I think you did a great job Bucket. How were you able to apply the material to the front part of your cabinet? It looks like it's somewhat confined with the side panel overlap, like mine is. I won't have the luxury of putting a bigger piece on the front and then trimming it to size. If I thought of it earlier I would have laminated it before I assembled it.

Tiger, thanks for the link and the suggestion -- I appreciate the advice. The only hesistation I'm having is that my cabinet width is 30" and the width of that material is 24". It's a possibility if I need a backup plan though.

[RayB]

OOOO Buckethead you're making me reconsider painting my Galaga. How would one go about cutting this stuff if one doesn't have a router?

And also, does it add alot of thickness? It would suck if the t-molding didn't cover the edge of the laminate...

[Tailgunner]

The trick to applying large pieces of laminate is to use several 3/8" dowels between them. You coat both the back side of the laminate and the surface you'll be applying it to with contact cement, then let them dry for a little while. When their no longer tacky, you space the dowels around 10" apart on the cabinet's surface. You then lay the laminate on top of the dowels, and align one edge with the cabinet. pick it up slightly, and roll the dowel underneath towards the opposite side so you can stick the laminate in place. once one edge is attached, you can lift the other edge and roll/remove the dowels working your way across the piece.

As far as cutting laminate, sheet metal snips will cut it, as will circular saws with a proper blade.

[dema]

Is there another adhesive that can be used to attach the formica? I'd like to have a couple shots at lining it up perfectly.

I was told that Liquid Nails would also work well and would allow me enough time and adjusting to get it lined up better.

[BUCKETHEAD]

I used sheet metal snips, To try and cut the excess off before i used a router on it,

From my experience the sheet metal snips, Ended up spliting and cracking the

laminate all to SH#T.

[BUCKETHEAD]

RAY B.

To answer your question?

It is not real thick.  And i have ordered new T - MOLDING.

And i suspect their will be a slight overlap. But not enough to really notice or

stick out like a sore thumb.


When the laminte is cut.  It still remained black on the edges.

That was my real concern.

Hope that helps?

As far as the contact cement.  If you don't stick the laminate on right the first time.

As i did.  You can peel it right up and try again.

[BUCKETHEAD]

You have seen the AFTER pictures of my Hogan's Alley cabinet

with the laminate applied.

Here are the BEFORE pictures.

You can see the improvement the laminate makes!

It virtually makes it look like a new cabinet 

[dema]

RAY B.



As far as the contact cement.

[BUCKETHEAD]

What i used was WILSONART INTERNATIONAL 600 CONTACT ADHESIVE.

Pehaps it had to do with the humidity and heat of my outdoor building?

But when i applied the laminate the wrong way.

Me and my buddy peeled it right back up and placed it the right way.

[Flinkly]

if you do the appropriate thing and wait for the cement to try on both sides (not really dry, but lose it's tack), then you stick it down and it will never come back up (without ruining the formica or incredible force, etc.).  bucket might have stuck it down without waiting and still had some play due to it's still-wet condition.

[BUCKETHEAD]

That was the idea.

So i would have some play with it.

Trust me it ain't coming back off.   

[dema]

That was the idea.

So i would have some play with it.

Trust me it ain't coming back off.

[Wade]

I have pre-cut formica to the correct size before.  I lay a straight board under it (like a very straight 2x4), then clamp the formica to it, then run the router down the board with a flush trim bit (just like you would use to trim the edge off in a normal formica installation).  That is how I get a straight cut with the formica not glued yet.

Then, I apply the contact cement to both surfaces, and let it dry.  Don't worry about the positioning!!  Just stick a few dowels up under it so you can space it out, then slide the dowels out one at a time.  It is no big deal.  You don't even have to use dowels, you can use some thin scrap wood strips, some stiff wire, etc.

It is important to let it dry fully, I have put it on before without it drying enough and it didn't stick nearly as well.  And, sometimes it is necessary to put two coats of the cement.  I also found the oil based formica glue to be slightly better than the water based glue.

Also, it helps a lot to rough up the old material first, especially if it was laminated to begin with.  I usually hit it with a sander and some heavy paper, like 60 or 80 grit.

Wade

[RayB]

What are dowels?

[dema]

What are dowels?

Dowels are just strips of wood

[BUCKETHEAD]

This thread will answer some questions?

Credit to TAILGUNNER .

I studied this thread well !

Great job TAILGUNNER !

[97thruhiker]

Using mini-blinds while laying laminate is a great alternative to dowels.

[Tailgunner]

This thread will answer some questions?

Credit to TAILGUNNER .

I studied this thread well !

Great job TAILGUNNER !   



http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?board=10%3baction=display%3bthreadid=12414
 

Thanks, I was quite happy with how the Dynamo cab turned out.

BTW, your link only goes to the project announcement forum. 

Try this one:

http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,12414.0.html

Dowels are just strips of wood

To be specific, dowels are round strips of wood.

The miniblind idea sounds workable, I originally got the dowel tip from the guys that were laminating the countertops in our shop.

[97thruhiker]

I got the idea for mini blinds from a guy who used to lay alot of laminate.

[BUCKETHEAD]

Nice idea !